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Hi Mark, Thank you for your input! So I have some questions. I am looking for a 4/5 day trip (80-100 km) that includes forest, alpine and solitude. So your article pointed me in the right direction. Because I am looking for a loop what intrigued me is that you name off-trail travel. Can you name some meadows/passes that are off-trail and don’t include any glacier travel, that might form a great loop? Thank you! Geert van Mourik

No matter your approach to backpacking – ultralight, comfort light, traditional, or whatever our own unique approaches may be in the gear department, backpacking in and of itself goes hand in hand with a gear list (whether on paper or simply in our heads), making a way to carry all that stuff one of the most important gear related items we need to consider. What follows is a guide to selecting an appropriate backpack for hiking and backpacking, including an overview of features, technologies, materials, and other considerations that are needed when it comes to selecting the best backpacking backpacks. REI Co-op Flash 45 Backpack (our review) The Backpack Frame As soon as you start to carry more than 15-20lbs on a trip (including food and water), which is the case for the great majority of backpackers with a full pack, a pack with a frame should be selected to help transfer the weight of the pack off your shoulders and on to your hips. While in years past the great debate was internal frame backpacks vs. those with external frames, the majority of choices on the market today will feature an internal frame when it comes to the multiday hiking backpack category. If you're in the market for an ultralight backpacking pack, with a few exceptions you'll be looking at internal framed packs (or even frameless on the extreme end of the spectrum). Some companies that offer packs like this include Hyperlite Mountain Gear (view their lineup here), backpacks from Zpacks, etc. On the flip side externally framed packs are now available with cutting edge materials and designs that are significantly lighter than the traditional heavy and tubular external framed packs of days past, so with packs breaking out of the mold in many cases, I like to focus more on the other specifications of a pack rather than agonizing over the internal vs. external backpack frame debate. As long as it has a frame – commonly made of aluminum, carbon fiber, or a high density plastic sheet – other specifications such as maximum weight carrying capacity, materials used, comfort, and organization are most important to me. Many frameless backpacking packs exist and are more specialized in nature, suitable for ultralight loads and as such usually most appropriate for shorter duration trips where less food will have to be carried and in areas where water sources are frequent. With careful packing however these ultralight frameless packs can still be used if you’re very diligent about how much weight you’ll be carrying and especially if you are concerned about having the lightest possible total pack weight. However, their use is limited and I find it more feasible to utilize a framed pack on short trips where I might be carrying an extra pound of pack or so, rather than trying to deal with the limited weight carrying capacity of a frameless pack (and often limited storage capacity) on a longer trip. Some frameless packs will even omit a hip belt to save more weight, but even on a frameless pack I still prefer a hip belt – while weight transfer to your hips will be limited without a frame, every little bit helps. While frameless packs will always boast the best weights, often hovering around just 1lb, thankfully many lightweight framed packs are now available from many manufacturers. For most backpacking purposes a framed pack weighing 2-3lbs is a great range to target, and perhaps a bit more if you like to carry a heavier range of gear, food, or water – or all of the above. And like shoes, backpack fit and comfort is critical and this is where it pays to take some extra time measuring your torso length and checking out the manufacturer’s sizing guide, as framed packs are usually available in several sizes. Often each size will have a bit of adjustment built in, and will be provided by moving the hip belt or shoulder strap attachment points in order to fine tune the fit. Capacity Expressed in cubic inches or liters, the most popular sizes for modern backpacking would be options in the 45 liter range (~2750 cubic inches) like the REI Flash 45 – quite appropriate for most weekend trips – and packs stepping up in size into the 60 liter range, which I find most appropriate for week long trips or so. Both sizes can be pushed a bit beyond these limits and depending on your other gear and packing style. Regardless, there will be times when a 45 liter is a bit too small or a 60 liter a bit too large, but it comes down to a personal decision and how your trips typically take place; some of us are weekend warriors with others tending to head out only on longer trips. The other strategy is collecting multiple packs and picking from your collection depending on the trip at hand. For me, I like one pack that can do it all just to keep it simple (and cheaper), with my 4200 cubic inch (this includes all storage – not just the main compartment) ULA Circuit serving as my workhorse backpacking pack for all trips. With around 10 days the longest I will go at a stretch (this is about as much food as I prefer to carry at once), the pack will be at its limits early in the trip, but is perfect after a few days. For overnights or weekends in the summer where gear is minimal, my jack of all trades pack will have some extra space, but I will just allow my down bag to loft up inside and it’s always better to be in a situation where your pack is suited to carry more weight than you actually are carrying than the other way around. The other capacity consideration is in regards to weight. Backpacks with a beefier frame and more sturdy hip belts will allow you to carry more weight comfortably, but as we increase in weight capacity the weight of the actual backpack itself increases as well, forcing a balance to be struck. Again here we need to evaluate the length of our typical backpacking trip and normal proximity to water sources (water is heavy). One pack will not be perfectly suited for every condition. Whether you are just starting your collection of backpacking gear or are looking to upgrade an existing pack, this is also the time where it pays to evaluate all the rest of your backpacking gear, weigh it, and figure out how much food and water you’ll also usually be carrying before buying the pack itself. My preference again is to go with a lightweight pack that is suitable for carrying the full weight of all my gear, the full weight of my food even on day 1 of most trips, and all that combined with all the water I’ll be carrying. Sure, the occasional longest of trips might be a little heavy on my shoulders until I eat a day of food, but 95% of the time the pack will be near perfect. A little math at home here will pay off later on the trail. Features and Organization 25 years ago – when you’d find inspirational, beautiful brochures detailing a popular manufacturer’s complete line of external framed packs along with the latest Campmor catalog in your mailbox, packs seemingly had a compartment or pocket for everything. Dedicated sleeping bag compartment. Swiss Army knife pocket. Zippered storage for your MSR white gas fuel bottle. The list goes on. While organization is a key component to finding what you need quickly on the trail, there’s no reason to go overboard, or under when choosing a backpack. I like the big 4: Main storage compartment, outside pocket or storage, hip belt pockets, and dual side water bottle pockets. I’ve found this arrangement to be the best balance for me on the trail, and I then utilize further lightweight stuffsacks if additional organization is needed – rather than just throwing the complete contents of my first aid kit randomly in the main compartment of the pack for example. With this arrangement you are able to pack anything you’ll need only at camp inside the main compartment (sleeping bag, sleeping pad, etc.), pack anything you might need immediately at hand during the day in the outside pocket of the pack like rain gear – this pocket can be in the form of a lid or pocket on the rear of the backpack. You’ll also have easy access to small frequently used items, or emergency items in your hip belt and side water bottle pockets – things like a small camera, snacks, whistle, and water bottles themselves – all without having to take your pack off. Even if you're in the market for an ultralight backpack, you should be able to find these features even on the lightest backpacks. Additional attachment points are always nice to have on longer trips or for those times you might be carrying extra gear. This ability can come in many forms – bungee systems on the outside of the pack, ice axe loops, etc., with the main concern here being their existence without getting in the way or adding too much weight to the pack. Often, normal closure or compression straps can also be utilized to hold items you might want to secure to the outside of your pack like a bulky foam sleeping pad. Top loading hiking backpacks feature a large opening on top of the pack – either a roll top design which works well for compression and water resistance, or with a drawstring closure often covered by a “lid” or “brain” with a pocket. Panel loading packs, which operate a bit like a suitcase with long zippers, are also available if you feel you prefer easy access to all of your gear at once, however panel loading hiking backpacks will often be a bit more complicated and a little heavier. Although it may go without saying, other features such as a sternum strap, load lifters for framed packs to pull the load closer to your center of gravity and move more weight off your shoulders, a comfortable hip belt, and features like a padded backpanel are all things to check off the list. Other features such as ventilated backpanels, hydration sleeves and ports, or trekking pole holders for example should be sought after on a preferential basis. Materials Protecting the rest of your gear contained within, and other than shoes and trekking pole tips, backpacks face one of the roughest existences on the trail of all the gear we carry. However, going over-durable here can lead to an overly heavy pack, but we still need something that can withstand being dropped on the ground and rocks repeatedly, leaned against scraggly trees, and contact with brush and boulders without having to constantly repair or replace our pack. Often the simple eye test can give an indication of just how durable all the various fabrics utilized for backpacks may be. Silnylon and standard Cuben / Dyneema Composite Fabrics dominate the ultralight pack market, but are not particularly durable fabrics in regards to abrasion resistance. A water resistant ripstop nylon pack fabric A hybrid Dyneema fabric is also available, featuring a polyester face fabric for increased abrasion resistance while still taking advantage of the waterproofness and strength of the base Dyneema material (seams may however, not be sealed or taped in any water resistant pack). Heavier duty ripstop nylons and Dyneema gridstop are more popular fabrics and offer a great balance of weight and durability. The latter two options frequently feature a PU coating for waterproofing, which will degrade over time – no matter the case one should always further waterproof their critical gear by way of waterproof stuff sacks, or by using a pack liner of some type – usually just a larger version of a waterproof stuff sack or a trash compactor bag. A pack cover is another way to approach waterproofing, and some packs like the REI Co-op Traverse (view at REI) include a rain cover that can be stashed in the pack when not in use. In rainy conditions, an outside mesh pocket can be nice to have for drying gear, once the rain does stop. In all cases, if the bottom of the pack is reinforced with a double layer or heavier duty material this is always a bonus, with this location being the most susceptible to abrasion and wear. Straps and Belts A backpacking backpack designed for carrying heavy loads will frequently feature heavily cushioned shoulder straps and hip belts, while lightweight packs and ultralight packs will typically feature minimal padding in this regard. I usually carry loads up to around 50lbs on extended backpacking trips, and find that I typically prefer minimal padding on a hip belt, with medium padding on shoulder straps. With the minimal padding, I just feel more connected to the pack and frankly, I think that backpack fit is most important here. Some backpacking backpacks like the ULA Circuit, are worth consideration for their dual adjustable hip belt straps that pull inward. This allows both for a more ergonomic fit and adjustment. Make sure you can easily reach and adjust all straps on your pack, including your load lifter, shoulder straps, and hip belt straps all on the fly. Instead of more pockets than you can count and technical fabric and frame materials, the best backpacking backpack for you might just be the one that's simply the most comfortable and isn't a hassle to adjust on the trail. In Review Thankfully, as a required item for backpacking there are no shortage of lightweight, framed, frameless, heavy duty, ultralight, top loading, panel loading, and men’s or women’s backpacks – or various combinations of these designs – on the market today. No matter your take and approach on the subject, the best backpack for hiking on those extended trips might be the one that you end up thinking about the least while on the trail; one that carries all your gear across the various intended situations with ease, all the while without weighing you down and one that is sufficiently durable to last for countless backcountry adventures. For a current list of backpacks that you can filter and sort by many of the features we’ve discussed in this post, see this page at REI.com. For our current choices so far as the best packs out there are concerned, see our related article: Best Backpacking Backpacks & Top Pack Picks by Category.

A backpacking sleeping pad very importantly provides warmth by insulating us from the cold ground at night, and ideally a sleeping pad will also provide sufficient comfort to allow for a good night of rest. As an item that’s one of the heaviest and bulkiest core gear items you will carry on any backpacking trip, the sleeping pad requires some thought and consideration when it comes to selection and application. With a multitude of options available there's a sleeping pad to specifically suit any season and backpacking trip, as well as those that offer a wide range of versatility across many situations. In this article we'll look at things to consider and features of some of the best sleeping pads on the market today. When considering a backpacking sleeping pad, weight, warmth, comfort, and durability should all be considered. R-Value and Warmth The most important function a sleeping pad serves is to keep you warm; although we all like to be comfortable we can’t be comfortable if we’re cold. Thus, consider a sleeping pad’s r-value when making a choice. However, there’s no free lunch; the warmer the pad the heavier and bulkier it will be. As such we have to seek a balance just like anything else. For general 3 season use here in the Rockies where it always gets a bit chilly at night, I target a sleeping pad with an r-value of at least 3. Combined with an appropriate sleeping bag for the forecasted lows of course, I’ve found this to provide sufficient warmth into the higher 20’s. When it will be colder, I combine this pad with the thinnest (1/4" or less) and lightest generic closed cell foam pad I can find particularly of the Evazote foam variety that can easily be cut down to a custom size or folded over to double up if needed. Options like the ULA Siesta pad or this option on Amazon, and foam pads sometimes carried by many cottage makers / vendors also work well. Essentially, you are looking for a thin 1/8" to 1/4" foam pad that will cover you width wise (depends on your main pad width of choice), and at least offer torso length coverage or more. This system will keep me comfortably warm to the high teens. If it will be colder than that I will combine my usual sleeping pad with a thick foam pad of nearly an equal r-value. As an example, the Exped Synmat UL7 – find our full review here – which is my choice for an inflatable pad – combined with something like the Z Lite Sol foam pad and the aforementioned thin foam pad will provide a total r-value approaching 6. A combo like this has kept me warm on winter trips well below 0. On this trip with a low for the night well below 0, I packed both this Ridge Rest Solar plus an insulated inflatable. Some inflatable pads like the Exped Ultra 1R feature no insulation at all (r-value around 1) and basically provide mostly comfort from the ground, but not cold ground. These pads are lighter and cheaper, and might be useful for a dedicated summer sleeping pad in warm locales. On the flipside some winter sleeping pads, such as the Exped Dura 8R or the NeoAir X-Therm NXT MAX, are heavily insulated and would be sufficiently warm all on their own for cold winter camping and for cold sleepers. On both sides of the coin though each are on the specialized end of the spectrum; I prefer the adaptable approach of using one 3-season rated pad, and then adding in a thin, or thicker foam pad when needed for colder temperatures. For the 3 season pad I like an inflatable to provide the comfort and some baseline level of insulation, and when combined with the additional foam pad the foam pad protects the inflatable and will even serve as a fail-safe should the inflatable spring a leak. As a general starting guide an r-value of 2+ has been useful for me on summer trips in the mountains and for 3 season use in warmer locations; warm into the 30 degree range. I find an r-value of 3+ most useful all-around, providing sufficient warmth for most 3-season trips in the mountains and down to the 20 degree range. However if you're a cold sleeper or sleep warm, you can implement some respective addition or subtraction here. For winter trips I do not mess around and take a combination of pads totaling a 5-6+ r-value. Pads that feature an r-value under 2 I find useful only as part of a larger system (as a solution to boost warmth as part of an overall sleep system), but not on their own. Sleeping Pad Size Sleeping pads are usually offered in multiple lengths and depending on your height and use, an appropriate fit can be found. If you’re going with an ultralight approach a shorter pad can work that offers coverage for the most important part of your body – your torso and core, but your feet and legs will hang off the end. To insulate this area you can pile gear and your backpack – that might just have an insulating foam backpanel – at the bottom of the shorter sleeping pad. This will save the most weight, but still will not be as warm or as comfortable as a longer pad. My preference is to use a pad that’s at least close to my height. A few inches shorter is fine as we often sleep a bit shorter than our height with knees and back bent, etc., or longer than your height offers the most luxury. Either way, by getting your whole body on the pad you will sleep warmer. The standard width for most sleeping pads is 20 inches. Often a wide version (not really standardized, but usually 25”) is also offered and even up to double wide pads for two like the Exped Ultra 3R Duo sleeping pad are offered. Two one-person pads can always be strapped together – Sea to Summit makes the best solution for this I’ve used. Preference will of course depend on your size and sleeping style. A 20” pad works for me, but there’s not much wiggle room and I do sleep better on a wider pad that offers more room to bend your knees for side sleepers or for toss and turners. Many tents are based around this 20” width standard, so be sure your pad will fit in your shelter of choice and combined with whatever width pad your partner may have if you’re sharing a tent. Either way longer and wider pads offer more comfort but at the cost of an increase in weight and bulk. I’ve accumulated several sizes over the years, so on trips where I’ll be covering a lot of miles I take a standard 6’ pad; on more relaxed trips I like the comfort my Synmat LW (Long/Wide) offers. No matter the size, you will find sleeping pads available in both a traditional rectangular shape as well as in tapering, mummy shapes that narrow towards the feet. While tapered pads offer some weight savings, a rectangular sleeping pad offers more room. The lower section of a mummy-shaped sleeping pad. Weight is saved, but there's not as much toss and turn room. Weight A great target for an adequately warm and comfortable full length standard 3-season sleeping pad for most locations is around 1lb with the weight falling below that as we get into shorter and/or less warm pads, and above that as we get into longer, wider, and warmer pads. Save for a dedicated winter pad, approaching the 2lb mark is best reserved for sleeping pads in more of the super comfortable and warm, but heavy and bulky car camping variety. If you'll be focusing on car camping, weight shouldn't be a concern. The best car camping sleeping pads will be those that are warm, comfortable, and durable. That said, back to the trail... Closed Cell Foam Pads The simplest and cheapest option to go with is a closed cell foam sleeping pad. I’m much more comfortable on an inflatable pad, but as previously described, I still have an assortment of closed cell foam pads in my gear stash to combine with an inflatable pad for additional warmth on shoulder season and winter trips with my 3 season rated Exped Synmat UL7. However, the foam pad excels in the reliability department – it won’t leak and you don’t have to carry a patch kit. They are also usually cheaper. The downside is they pack bulky and you will probably have to carry it on the outside of your backpack. This can be a pro though, as the pad will be easily accessible to use as a sit pad on breaks and for lunch. Foam pads are usually just around an inch thick or a bit less, and then compress further when you’re on it. You will definitely feel the ground and any rocks or roots that might occupy your campsite, but if the comfort works for you the foam pad is a reliable and affordable choice. Note that you will want to avoid open cell foam pads, as they will absorb water and when they do they take a long time to dry. Reserve these for use on the futon at home. Foam pads are bulky to carry, but convenient for breaks. Most foam pads can be had for under $50. Some popular options include such venerable choices as the generic blue foam pad, the Therm-a-Rest Ridge Rest (a classic), and the more conveniently packed Z Lite pad. And in recent years, you can now find that classic foam pads from Therm-a-Rest have been updated with an aluminized reflective (warmer) coating as seen in the Z Lite Sol pad for a small boost in warmth and durability. Overall a foam sleeping pad will above all be dependable, but not the most comfortable or easy to carry. Inflatable Pads Inflatable sleeping pads offer a few advantages and disadvantages compared to their closed cell foam cousins. Usually thicker than foam pads when inflated, an air pad can keep you totally off the ground and the inflation level can be adjusted to suit your own comfort preference. Thinner inflatables are better for back sleepers and the thicker variety better for side sleepers. If you toss and turn, look for a design that is raised around the sides a bit to help center you on the pad and keep you from falling off in the night. Inflatable pads also pack smaller, usually around the size of a Nalgene and even a long / wide inflatable will easily fit inside a backpack. Most air pads usually feature baffles arranged in a horizontal, vertical, or sometimes in a pod like arrangement like the Sea to Summit Ultralight – one of our tested sleeping pads we’ve previously reviewed. Preference varies; I like the lengthwise tubes that I find help me stay centered on the pad. Self-inflating pads usually have a flatter sleeping surface. The downside of inflatable pads is that they can be punctured, baffles can fail, you have to inflate it, and to be sufficiently warm inflatable pads will use insulation or special baffles that bump up the price. When I carry an inflatable, I also bring a patch kit along just in case, and use care where I put the pad. For inflation I prefer to not use my breath, not only can this be a little difficult at high altitudes after a long day, but it introduces moisture. Many manufacturers offer a pump bag solution – like the Exped Scnhozzel I use, and battery operated pumps are even available. The standard of inflatables a couple decades ago, some are still self-inflating, but the self-inflating pad has become rarer in recent times. Keeping air pads protected and inside your tent is ideal. Many people may also take a smaller foam pad to use as a dedicated sit pad in this situation. The texture of sleeping pad surfaces vary, and some inflatable pads can be a bit noisy and some can also have slick surfaces that can migrate around the tent, or have you migrating on top of them at night. Some strategic dots of Seam Grip SIL on your (especially if it’s silnylon) tent floor can help mitigate the slipping, and if you combine an inflatable with a foam pad of any type as I often do in colder weather it will mitigate this issue. For an inflatable lightweight insulated sleeping pad, you are probably looking at something in the $100-$200 range. Popular inflatable pads can be found in the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir series (view at REI) that utilize a combination of baffling and aluminized reflective features to provide warmth, options from Sea to Summit that use microfiber insulation, and many options of various insulation types exist from makers like Big Agnes and Nemo Equipment. The best backpacking sleeping pads will feature a blend of warmth, weight, packed size, and durability. If you choose the most extreme of any category, it will likely be at the cost of something else. My System Just like sleeping bags, selecting a backpacking sleeping pad is without a doubt, a huge balance between weight, comfort, price, reliability, and warmth – and while there’s no best sleeping pad and no free lunch, with so many options out there there’s no doubt the right sleeping pad that suits your style can be found. As a side sleeper who values all the above points fairly equally and has been testing sleeping pads for decades, I like a comfortable 3 season inflatable pad as the main cog in my sleeping pad system, and add in a thin foam pad for just a touch of additional warmth when it's needed and a thicker foam pad for winter conditions. For a full selection of lightweight sleeping pads that you can then narrow down by type, price, size, etc. take a look here at REI.com.

When it comes to backpacking stoves, there are several routes one can take and several different main categories of stoves exist – each with an array of pros and cons. Without a doubt however, no matter which way you go about it the backpacking stove is an important part of any overnight or multi-night gear ensemble. A backpacking stove provides hot meals and drinks, goes a long way towards keeping you warm on chilly mornings and evenings, and for backpacking and hiking a stove needs to be convenient, lightweight, and reasonably fast to use with readily available fuel. The Canister Stove A canister stove uses a pressurized gas canister for its fuel source, and this fuel can be butane, isobutane, or propane and is usually a mixture of these fuels. These canisters are available in different sizes for varying trip lengths, and if you'll be using the canister in colder temperatures, you want to avoid a canister containing regular butane as its vaporization temperature is quite high in the 30 degree range (translation: your stove may not work / performance will suffer / it may be difficult to use in colder temperatures). However, canisters containing a mixture of isobutane and propane are much more suitable as temperatures drop. Isobutane will vaporize down to about the 10 degree mark and even lower as you gain altitude, and propane vaporizes down to the arctic-like temperature of minus 44, but there is only so much propane in your usual backpacking canister mix. Canister valves automatically open and close when you connect and disconnect the stove for ease of use and packing, and note that you can mix and match brands here – you don’t necessarily have to match the maker of your stove to your canister brand. As long as the canister has a Lindal valve you are good to go. Popular blended canister fuel brands include MSR IsoPro as well as fuel canisters from JetBoil and propane / isobutane mixtures from Snow Peak. Either way canister stoves offer convenience: they are easy to carry, usually fuel efficient, simple to use, and the pre-packaged fuel is likely readily available at your local outfitter. While having the fuel contained and prepackaged provides that convenience, they are non-refillable and after a while you are likely to end up with a bunch of canisters that don't have enough fuel to get you through a trip, but aren't empty either. They are recyclable if empty and punctured, and Jetboil makes a specific tool for that purpose. A necessary accessory for any canister stove user should be a digital kitchen scale that measures to the gram – this way you can always calculate the exact amount of fuel inside a canister before a trip. Canister stoves excel at boiling water, but you can dial the flame down and simmer…or even bake…with practice and with the right approach. Upright Canister Stoves Among canister stoves, upright canister stoves screw directly into the top of the canister and can be quite light – with many of these stoves falling in the 2-3 ounce range. I’ve used upright canister stoves with isobutane / propane canisters on trips with lows in the high teens, but usage much below these temperatures will become difficult, especially considering that the longer you use a canister in a sitting, the colder it will become – colder than the actual outside temperature – due to evaporative cooling. In cold or cooler temperatures it’s good to keep a few tricks in mind. In cold temperatures you can place the canister in a bit of water inside a container like a shallow bowl if needed to keep the canister’s temperature up and maintain performance, and sleeping with the canister inside your sleeping bag is never a bad idea when temps get chilly to give you a head start in the morning. Soto WindMaster Upright Canister Stove with MSR IsoPro 110 gram Fuel Canister Other types of upright canister stoves feature an all in one, integrated canister stove system like many of the system offerings made by Jetboil and options like the MSR WindBurner that are designed to be particularly efficient, at the cost of upfront weight, while saving fuel. These systems may be a good option if your primary need is boiling water. I personally prefer a more typical upright canister stove and like to choose different pots – like those from the Evernew Ultralight Series – depending on the trip. In recent years several upright canister stove options that utilize a pressure regulating valve have made it to the market, often claiming to increase overall and cold weather performance. While these stoves won't replace an inverted or liquid stove for cold conditions, I have found them to have better and more predictable performance overall when compared to other options featuring a standard needle valve. Popular upright canister stoves include my current choice, the Soto WindMaster – find our full review here, and a couple classic examples can be found in the MSR Pocket Rocket 2 and the Snow Peak GigaPower. Integrated canister stoves like the Jetboil Zip are also quite popular. Remote and Inverted Canister Stoves Remote canister stoves keep the canister remote from the burner and feed fuel via a hose. This allows for two benefits: remote canister stoves let you really shield the burner with a large windscreen to block wind and hold in heat to save fuel while the canister remains outside the windscreen – in an upright canister stove this would make the canister too dangerously hot. Secondly, if said remote canister stove allows you to use the fuel canister in an inverted position, a solution to the colder weather fuel vaporization issues previously discussed is realized, as using the canister upside down feeds fuel in a liquid form where it's subsequently preheated and vaporized at the hot burner of the stove itself in cold and very cold temperatures. For a remote canister stove that allows for inverted use, I use the MSR WindPro II. You can find our WindPro II review here. MSR WindPro II and Remote Canister For all types of canister stoves I like a dedicated starter if I can get it, and always look for built in piezo ignition. A separate piezo starter can be used if your stove of choice doesn’t feature one, or a lighter will do the job as well. Piezo igniters can fail, but they can also be replaced. Of course, always have a backup ignition source in your separate fire starting kit, but the convenience of a piezo igniter has far outweighed any small amount of hassle in my experience. No matter if you're using an upright or inverted canister fuel stove, be sure to dispose of spent fuel canisters appropriately. Liquid Gas Stoves The bread and butter stove of cold weather camping and for mountaineers alike, liquid fuel stoves like the venerable MSR Whisperlite are reliable options that burn white gas, or even an array of liquid fuels including gasoline for some stoves like the International version of the Whisperlite. A liquid fuel stove will work well in very cold weather, but most liquid fuel stoves are heavier and more cumbersome to use in regards to the need to handle liquid fuel in refillable fuel bottles, priming the stove, complicated hardware with more moving parts and maintenance etc. However, if you’re into group or complex meals like baking on the trail, a liquid stove may be hard to beat (options like the MSR Dragonfly are specifically designed with simmering in mind). A liquid fuel backpacking stove is thus perhaps best for the cold weather backpacker, the backpacking chef, or those who desire a stove that will work across all conditions who might not mind the extra weight and the potential hassle of a fuel bottle for 3 season use. Alcohol Stoves Alcohol stoves are designed to run on denatured alcohol (available at many hardware stores, etc.), or for my use I’ve always run them on the cleaner highest proof grain alcohol (Everclear). The benefits of an alcohol stove are weight and simplicity, there aren’t any complicated mechanisms or moving parts – you usually just fill and light the stove. With simplicity comes reduced weight, and the stove can even be made from tuna cans, soda cans, and the like. Alcohol stoves can be subject to fire restrictions and require some extra care with the open flame and fuel. I’ve used alcohol stoves across many conditions and my favorite offering is the Trail Designs Ti-Tri system that works well to trap the limited heat that an alcohol stove produces while blocking wind, greatly increasing efficiency. Another venerable alcohol stove option can be found in one of the several Trangia burners that are available. Alcohol Stove from Trail Designs Regardless, if you go with an alcohol stove you will definitely want a windscreen of some type. Alcohol stoves usually compete with upright canister stoves; ultimately the choice is up to you regarding which benefits you find most appealing and on longer trips, the increased efficiency of a canister stove may begin to cut into an alcohol stove’s weight savings. Fuel for an alcohol stove can perhaps be easier to find, and alcohol stoves have been popular for thru-hiking and ultralight backpacking usage for some time. With an alcohol stove you can dial in the exact amount of fuel you need prior to a trip instead of having to take a full canister each time, and perhaps taking too much fuel and the extra weight. On the other hand with a digital scale and some partial canisters to choose from, you can get close with a canister as well. Wood Burning Stoves Ti-Tri Wood Burning Stove Many wood stoves exist on the market, with of course the simplest way to cook with wood being a small campfire – which I’m most likely to use when cooking in this manner – although I’ve utilized the combo wood or alcohol burning Trail Designs Caldera Ti-Tri system for this purpose as well. A wood stove won’t beat a campfire in weight carried, but will beat it in convenience and efficiency. Cooking with wood of course requires you collect wood and start a fire, and would have to be ruled out in areas where fire bans are in effect. Wood also leaves residue on pots and the stove, but a wood fire is hard to beat for ambiance, and fuel is free and you don’t have to carry your fuel in your pack during the day. Chemical Tablet Stoves Stoves that burn manufactured hexamine chemical tablets like those from Esbit are quite efficient and very lightweight. Like alcohol stoves, you will want a windscreen to maximize efficiency and block any wind here. These tablets and Esbit fuel can be a bit hard to find if you’re in a pinch, but you can of course stock up from online sources. Esbit stoves leave a residue on your cookware and produce fumes, and as I prefer cleaner or more natural burning fuel alternatives, my experience with Esbit or other hexamine stoves is limited, but I can see the appeal for emergency or backup usage. Some ultralight backpackers however find Esbit fuel appealing for its simplicity and light weight. Esbit stoves, like the Esbit Titanium Stove are small, light, simple, and easily carried. Many backpackers would consider alcohol, wood, and solid fuel tablet stoves alternative fuel stoves. Final Thoughts As with nearly any other backpacking gear category, there may be no best backpacking stove, but hopefully the above information can assist with determining which option(s) would work best for you. While I own them all, these days my general approach is to take an upright canister stove (the Soto WindMaster) for 3 season use. Only when needed in very cold weather or anytime melting snow will be needed will I reach for an inverted canister stove. That same inverted canister stove – the MSR WindPro II, would work just fine in the summer as well if the extra weight wasn’t a concern. But whether you go with a one stove to do it all approach or like to mix and match to specifically meet the needs of the excursion at hand, any backpacking stove should ideally be durable, reliable, and have the ability to heat water and cook your cuisine of choice in a reasonable amount of time, and through whatever conditions will be encountered during a trip. For a full list of backpacking stoves that you can sort by fuel type and many of the points discussed in this article, check out this page at REI.com.

On any hiking or backpacking trip, the ability to procure drinking water during the hike is one of the most important logistical considerations for both pre-trip planning as well as while we’re on the trail. Finding the water is of course the first step, and having the necessary gear to properly process the water so it’s suitable to drink is the second part of the equation. Here we’ll look at the main types of water filters and backcountry water treatment methods that are best suited for backpacking and hiking, and elaborate on the necessary reading between the lines that needs to be done when choosing the best backpacking water filters or treatment options for backcountry use. An assortment of various types of backcountry water treatment options What We Need to Treat and Filter Microorganisms and Biological Concerns While protozoan concerns such as giardia and cryptosporidium get the most publicity, concerns are best looked at in a categorical fashion. Starting with biological contaminants from smallest to largest, viruses (example: hepatitis, rotavirus, often smaller than .1 micron) are notoriously difficult to filter as they can slip through most common filter’s pore size. Luckily, viruses are mostly a concern where there are many other people – for example where you might find untreated sewage. However, it’s always important to remember the source of the water you’re filtering. Bacteria (example: E.Coli, Salmonella, average size greater than .3 microns) are a more common concern in the wilderness as they are spread by both humans and wildlife, but luckily they are larger than viruses and more easily captured by most common filters. Protozoa are a bit larger and include cryptosporidium and giardia, and a filter that will filter to 1 micron or smaller is recommended for removal. Concerns that are larger still include tapeworm eggs and unsightly, but not necessarily dangerous, critters of various types in your water such as insect larvae. On many occasions I’ve scooped water from crystal clear mountain streams and upon close inspection, have been quite surprised at what that scoop reveals to the eye – from sticks and stones to tadpoles and worms of various types – not to mention what you can’t see. I prefer to get my calories from my food bag while backpacking, and luckily these larger organisms are of course, very easily filtered. Water sources will vary in purity, but various types of backcountry water treatment and filtration methods are available and can be utilized. Each method offers pros and cons, and I often prefer to use methods / technologies in combination depending on the trip. Other Treatment Considerations Many other components can make up the water you’re drinking in the backcountry as well. Chemicals, pesticides and herbicides, heavy metals, tannins, silt, taste and odor, as well as natural particulates of various types will need to be considered. Some of these concerns will only affect smell and taste, others could affect your health. Visible suspended matter is removed by most filters, but tannins and taste / smell can pass through – in my experience even drinking tea colored water however, has been fine. If your water source is downstream of an area that has seen prior or active agricultural or mining use for example, chemicals and other various components introduced by man could be in the water source, especially as you move further downstream in the water supply chain. To reduce these types of contaminants and concerns we can utilize a purifier or filter that contains a carbon stage, or add a carbon element or step to an existing setup to assist in reducing many of these possible impurities. Physical Filters and Purifiers Most water treatment products designed for backcountry use that are reasonably lightweight, will not address all of the above concerns in one fell swoop. Thus, we need to evaluate our backpacking and hiking destinations, as well as our own personal comfort level to find the best compromise. For backpacking in the mountainous wilderness areas of the United States for example, the general consensus is that viruses are usually not of a great concern, and many times our water sources are fairly pure from man-made pollution as we’re getting it close to the source. In these cases bacteria and protozoa are usually the main concerns. Other backcountry trips may find us filtering water on the banks of a river far from the source, that has passed through many towns before we consume it, perhaps on foreign soil, and the full gamut of contaminants are more of a possibility. Water filters do just what they say; they filter the water to a certain micron level to remove bacteria and protozoa. Water purification by definition, including options like the First Need XLE will take this all a step further by also removing viruses, though not all products that are officially listed as purifiers will remove or reduce chemicals, heavy metals, tannins, debris, etc. – your water may be purified by marketing general standards, but it will not necessarily be “pure”. A classic pump filter works well for pulling water out of hard to reach and shallow sources. Popular water filters for backcountry water treatment should filter to an absolute pore size of .3 microns or smaller for adequate removal of bacteria, protozoa, and all things larger. Note the absolute part of the pore size equation, as filters listed with a “nominal” pore size will only on average filter to that level. Absolute is a guarantee, and is the number we’re actually interested in. If you prefer viral protection, you will need an option with a much smaller absolute pore size; as a result flow rate will likely suffer and these types of purifiers are rare. Alternatively some filters combine with other technology to treat the virus part using an iodine or ion exchange process. Backpacking water purifiers that remove viruses physically can be found in the MSR Guardian as well as the LifeSaver Wayfarer pump purifiers. Other options combine a normal filter with a cartridge that contains an iodinated resin for added virus protection, while the Grayl purifier uses an ion exchange process to achieve this goal. Types of Filters Physical filtration can be achieved utilizing various types of elements and technologies. The most popular lightweight water filter technology today, hollow fiber filters work by passing water through a multitude of small tubes; tubes that are perforated by many, many, pores so small (rated to the micron) that anything larger than this pore size cannot pass through, trapping any living organisms or non-living matter larger than the pore size. Hollow fiber filters are popular for their light weight and versatility – you can pretty much find one in any filter configuration you prefer – be that as a gravity filter, inline filter, or pump. Hollow fiber filters can usually be backflushed to help restore flow rate, and flow rate will vary depending on pore size, surface area, and use. The most popular hollow fiber filters are in the .1 to .2 micron range making them sufficient for bacteria and protozoa, and this micron level is usually a good balance of protection, sufficient flow rate, and lifespan. Smaller micron, virus-rated filters also exist in this category as seen with the aforementioned Wayfarer purifier, but flow rate will be slower due to the smaller pore size. Gravity filters, an example shown here using hollow fiber filter technology, use the force of gravity to move water through the filter. Hollow fiber filters cannot be allowed to freeze when wet (the MSR Guardian is an exception) or after they've been used, so on trips where it will freeze at night you’ll need to sleep with the filter in your sleeping bag or carry it in your pocket any time temperatures begin to flirt with freezing during the day – this goes for nearly all other filters using different types of elements as well. In addition to freezing, physical filters also need to be treated with some care in regards to drops and impacts, which could damage the element. Some hollow fiber filters like the Platypus GravityWorks (read our full GravityWorks review here), and the Katadyn BeFree have manufacturer supported integrity tests which are very helpful for a little peace of mind – unlike other gear, you can’t really tell if a filter is working properly or not, without this test. Other types of physical filter media will use a ceramic element like the MSR EX filter, and the Katadyn Pocket Filter, or utilize a glass fiber element like the venerable Katadyn Hiker Pro. Ceramic filters have the ability to be repeatedly field cleaned. Some filters are entirely self-contained and will need to be thrown away when their flow rate diminishes too much to be of practical use, while others setups will have a replaceable cartridge that fits into a housing. Approaches to Filtering No matter what filter technology you end up going with, physical filters are most often utilized in an inline, gravity, squeeze, or pump configuration. The traditional pump water filter requires you to pump the water through the filter element via a hose in the water source, and is a proven setup at both getting you water and providing an ample upper body workout. Pump filters have moving parts and increase the complication and weight, but these are also great for pulling water out of hard to reach places. The other methods will require you to fill some type of reservoir with dirty water first, by either submerging the dirty water container or bag in the water source or, if it’s one of those shallow or small sources you occasionally may need to use a separate vessel to fill the dirty container, like a mug (boil later to sterilize). An inline water filter connected to a hydration setup treats water as you drink. Gravity setups like the Platypus GravityWorks and the Katadyn Gravity BeFree let gravity do the work for you, by filling a dirty reservoir with water and by elevating, hanging from a tree branch or rock if possible, water passes through the filter element into a clean container. Inline setups such as the MSR Thru-Link splice into the tubing of your hydration reservoir and your own drinking force filters the water with each sip, while with squeeze setups like the Sawyer Squeeze, you can utilize a combination of gravity and squeezing force to move the dirty water through the filter and the filtered water into a clean vessel or drink directly. Other options integrate the filter into a water bottle (LifeStraw Go Series) or softbottle (BeFree), where much in the same manner as an inline filter with a hydration reservoir, your drinking or a combination of drinking and squeezing is what filters the water as you go. Straw type options like the Lifestraw Peak (view at REI) are also another strategy, treating water by directly inserting one end into a water source and drinking from the other side of the straw. A straw filter is limited in that you cannot process larger volumes of water and each sip takes more work, and straw filters are perhaps best reserved more for emergency usage. In whatever case, seek out the cleanest water possible to prolong the life of your filter and for the best flow rate. While many filters can be backflushed or cleaned, this is usually a losing battle over time. Although filters are rated by the gallon or liter in regards to their lifespan, and while it’s a great idea to evaluate this when choosing a filter, take this number with a grain of salt. Clean water is important for other treatment methods as well; in very turbid situations it’s a good idea to allow water to settle in a separate container (in for example, a Sea to Summit Bucket), then treat from the top. Luckily, this is more of the exception than the norm for most of us. UV Treatment Ultraviolet treatment options like those offered by Steripen, come in various forms using either normal or rechargeable batteries, and utilize, as with many municipalities, UV light from a special lamp that’s inserted into your water container to neutralize many microorganisms by disrupting their DNA. This process usually takes about a minute and you’ll most likely be treating a liter of water or so at a time. Some other UV devices have come to market that feature an integrated lamp, like the (discontinued) Camelbak All Clear, and yet others have been designed to float from the surface of your water vessel. UV water treatment uses battery powered ultraviolet light that's inserted in a container to treat many microorganisms. On the plus side, these UV treatment options are quite effective at neutralizing the things that physical filters have the toughest time with – viruses – and the technology is proven. However, many are not comfortable relying on an electronic and potentially fragile instrument for their main or only wilderness water treatment source. Additionally, UV light on its own is not sufficient for neutralizing all living organisms that could be present in your water – tapeworm eggs for example, or larger organisms and larvae that may or may not do any harm but may not necessarily be what you want to ingest, nor will a UV product remove anything from the water or improve its composition. If the water is dirty, you’ll be drinking dirty water. Steripen offers a filter with a 40x40 micron mesh screen that can help here, which is intended to reduce organic matter or particulates. Performance may also be insufficient in murky water, requiring pre-filtration. All said, this is an excellent technology as long as you’re aware of the limitations; I utilize a Steripen Adventurer Opti as a secondary treatment with a hollow fiber filter on any trip where I desire viral treatment. Chemical Treatment Chemical treatment usually utilizing chlorine dioxide (Aquamira) or Iodine (Potable Aqua) and on occasion some other chemicals like household bleach or other chemicals that produce chlorine, like Aquatabs can be effective, but like anything this category has its share of pros and cons. In contrast to physical filters and like UV treatment, chemicals are again effective against viruses, but often take longer (hours) to work on such concerns as cryptosporidium (4 hours) and these products will add a taste to your water; other products are not suitable for cryptosporidium whatsoever. Advocates for chemical treatments praise the ease of just adding the treatment right into their water bottles and allowing the treatment to take place as they hike. To be honest, most of my thought goes into making sure my drinking water source is either free of any chemicals or how to reduce or remove them should there be any chance of them being present, so chemical treatment is a bit counter-productive from my point of view, and options like iodine are not an option for pregnant women or those with any type of a thyroid issue. Iodine and chlorine (i.e. bleach) on their own, are not effective against cryptosporidium. However, this method is lightweight and over the years has been popular with ultralight backpackers, though decreasing in recent years with the increased availability of very light hollow fiber filters like the Sawyer Mini. In this category, other devices have seen the market over the years that create a solution with salt to create an oxidant solution that you subsequently dissolve in water; but as with other chemical treatments, with a 4 hour wait time these are not the quickest of options. An example can be found in the discontinued MSR MIOX. These devices seem to come and go from the market. Chemical treatment may also be integrated with some filters to move them into the purifier category. As with boiling, chemical treatment can be a good backup to bring as well or to utilize in conjunction with other methods. Hundreds of miles from the source, I took extra steps in my treatment process at this backcountry location. Boiling Boiling water is an excellent way to neutralize microorganisms that might be present, but it takes a while, requires a lot of fuel, and let’s be honest, on a hot summer day, who wants to drink steaming hot water when we could be drinking that crisp and cold water from a mountain stream? As such, boiling can be tough to utilize as a main water treatment method on most 3 season backpacking trips, but it’s an excellent method to keep in mind as a backup method should your filter or other method fail you. In winter however, melting snow for water may be your best and only option. Be sure to bring a big pot (my Evernew 1.3 works well solo) and a stove that will work well during continued usage in cold conditions like the MSR WindPro II – read our WindPro II review here. Opinions on how long to boil water vary widely; the CDC suggests bringing water to a rolling boil for 1 minute, or for 3 full minutes at altitudes above 6562 feet (be sure to check that 2 on the end of your altimeter!). Data suggests however that pathogens are neutralized at lower temperatures; in the end it depends on heat and time but luckily, both are achieved by bringing your water to a boil and after removal from heat. Carbon Filtration As we’ve seen, the technologies used above are all mainly designed to thwart microorganisms. If improving the taste and smell of your water, or if any agricultural and / or industrial contamination is a concern, look for a system that integrates filtration technology combined with a carbon stage that will improve and / or reduce, but not necessarily eliminate, these concerns. If desired, a carbon element can be integrated into an existing system using a modular approach to filter water further. This will increase the weight of your system, and possibly the cost of replacement elements, etc., but there is of course no free lunch. The Grayl UltraPress and Katadyn Hiker Pro are all examples of filters with integrated carbon filtration – or if you’re like me and have settled on a treatment method that does not address this concern, but you may occasionally head out on a trip where some of these concerns would be nice to cover, you can always splice in an add-on carbon element (I use an add on GravityWorks Carbon Element) for this purpose when needed. My Approach For a complicated issue, there are unfortunately no one size fits all solutions and in the end, when we’re concerned about not carrying extra weight, it all comes down to a compromise and what each one of us is most interested in removing from our water. Luckily there are many lightweight and effective options out there to choose from. For general backpacking we should expect to find an option that will treat what we’re concerned with for around a pound or less. About half a pound is usually doable, and lighter options of just a few ounces are very realistic to target. The best backpacking water filter or water treatment method very much depends on the task at hand. Most of my trips are very well served by standard hollow fiber filtration technology; as with all of us most likely, my preference is to backpack into areas where the water is already fairly good. As such I’m not usually concerned about viruses or pollution, (both a Steripen and carbon filter have a spot in the gear room for such destinations to use in conjunction with a hollow fiber filter), and I like to target the removal of bacteria, protozoa, and the removal of larger critters no matter their parasitical intent or lack thereof. The hollow fiber filter also has that added benefit of giving your water a good scrub; removing particulate matter. I really like a filter that has a manufacturer supported integrity test as well, so it essentially comes down to the cartridge for me. The Platypus GravityWorks cartridge fits all of the above criteria, and it just so happens the whole setup it comes with works well and is pretty darn convenient to use both on the trail as well as in camp. For a complete list of backcountry-ready, tried and tested backpacking water filters and treatment methods that you can sort and filter by all the main points we’ve discussed in this post, check out this page at REI.

If there is an enduring archetype about the American West, it is the cowboy on his faithful horse riding through the wilderness and into the sunset. This archetype was formed by numerous books, songs and John Ford westerns and has passed into the collective American cultural mythos. Unfortunately, this romantic view of the old West sometimes clashes with reality. In the modern American West, these wilderness lands are bisected by private property, roads, different land agencies, and jurisdictions. Riding through these lands poses a challenge for those on a long journey. Is it still possible to capture the sense of romanticism and adventure on such a journey in modern times? The Unbranded Documentary The new documentary Unbranded has a simple answer: Yes. With some planning and a little help, it is still possible to capture this spirit of the mythologized American West even in modern society. Unbranded is tale of four recent college graduates who set out to ride from the Mexico border in Arizona to the Canadian border by Glacier National Park. These four men, along with sixteen horses and one donkey, cover nearly 3000 miles through deserts and mountains, old mining roads, single track trails, and what looked to be some cross country travel. A route was put together that encompasses parts of both the Arizona Trail and the Continental Divide Trail along with other wilderness areas. Uniquely, the journey was done with another archetype of the American West: wild horses. Commonly known as mustangs. As of 2010, 33,700 horses and 4,700 burros is the current feral population in the United States with another 34,000 in BLM holding pens. Wild horses The three-thousand mile long journey and the resulting documentary was done in part to show the plight of these animals. The politics of the debate on how best to handle the growing numbers of feral horses is discussed. Are the horses stripping the land bare? Are there enough resources to sustain the horses? Should there be more protection? Is it ethical to hold that many animals in holding pens? A wide variety of people and opinions are portrayed. Ranchers state their case, wildlife activists give their thoughts and biologists state the facts. All in what I felt was an even handed and fair manner. The interesting facts, discussions and issues are interspersed within the documentary of the journey itself. And the journey itself was fascinating. Wonderful cinematography and a unique tale. There are plenty of documentaries about end to end hikes on well-known National Scenic Trails, but so few about following a self-made route. And even fewer about performing the journey on horseback. The challenges are many for the journey: The maps often had trails that don’t exist anymore, climbs were performed on old mining roads that were arduous and more akin to scrambling than riding/hiking, and the health of the horses was always a constant concern. There were moments of sadness leavened by moments of silliness. The kindness of the communities and the people within them experienced by the horseback riders was amazing. And, perhaps rather appropriate for a documentary about a long journey on horseback, many thoughtful discussions were had around campfires. In Conclusion As a person who has hiked some of the long trails, two scenes and the discussion engendered by the incidents resonated with me. Namely, when there was a question of breaking the continuity of the journey due to a time delay when attempting to find a missing horse. And, when at the end of the journey, one member of the group performed a symbolic act that may have ruined the continuity of the journey but was important to him. These incidents are essentially the debate over the “purity” of a journey with unbroken footsteps being important versus the experience of the journey itself that may or may not matter more. At just under two hours in length, Unbranded is well worth watching. Unbranded is not just for people who love horses or even long journeys. It is a documentary for anyone who loves the wild spaces and spends time in them. Where to watch: Unbranded is available for both DVD and digital purchase here at Amazon.com. Editor's Note: This article by contributor Paul Magnanti originally appeared in Issue 26 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

Living in New Jersey, I’ve hiked all over my state: from the northwest region of the Water Gap, to the New Jersey Highlands (and their frequent view of New York City), to the majesty of the Pine Barrens in the south. I have made infrequent forays into the bordering states of Pennsylvania and New York, hiking a trail or two in both Harriman and Bear Mountain State parks. This past Fall, looking for something a little higher, different scenery, and a little bigger, I decided to explore both Harriman and Bear Mountain parks. It helps that both parks border each other, with some trails meandering into both parks. Harriman State Park, found in Rockland and Orange counties in New York, borders Bear Mountain State Park, on the western side of the Hudson River. Both parks are a short jaunt from New York City, but are large enough to isolate yourself from the hustle and bustle of modern society. I usually do not lose cell service, but there are times where I have seen the signal get pretty weak. Visitors crowd some trails and you will be able to count your trail-mates on one hand in other areas. Both parks are open year-round, and there are plenty of shelters should you want to camp. (The parks also include beaches, picnic areas, and boat ramps. You even have the ability to drive up Bear Mountain to the observation tower.) I spent last fall making many day trips to hike all around the two parks, and I’ll describe some of my favorites. Bear Mountain State Park The first hike to describe is Bear Mountain itself. Park in the main parking lot for the Bear Mountain Inn (a note that there is a fee.) For this loop, take the Hessian Lake Loop (to the left of Hessian Lake) until it junctions with the Major Welch Trail. This trail goes right up the face of Bear Mountain where there are some great little rock scrambles. (Pro tip: don’t do this on a 90-degree day with humidity.) At the top you will find the observation tower which is easily climbable and offers spectacular views in all directions. When you’re finished climbing the tower, make your way beyond the parking lot to the rocks for a place to have lunch. Crowds abound here, as many people have driven up to this spot. To descend, look for the Appalachian Trail and head down. The AT is well-worn and there are many sections of stone steps. The AT winds its way down the mountain and will deposit you back to the Bear Mountain Inn and your car. Of note, before the lake is a large display describing how the New York New Jersey Trail Conference builds and maintains trails. This is a must see. (3.6 miles) My favorite hike in Bear Mountain State Park starts from a hiker parking lot on 9W before access to Iona Island. From the lot, cross the road, and by the bridge start following the blue blazed Cornell Mine Trail. There are lots of mines in both Bear Mountain and Harriman parks; some are more easily found than others. The Cornell Mine trail is relatively flat until it climbs up the face of Bald Mountain using a few switchbacks. At the top, you will junction with the Ramapo-Dunderber Trail at a huge cairn. Turn right and head to the top of Bald Mountain. (To the right of this junction is the Cornell Mine, it takes some bushwhacking to find.) When the Ramapo-Dunderberg makes a hairpin turn, take a small spur trail to the rocks at the top of Bald Mountain. There, you will have great views of Bear Mountain, West Mountain, and the Timp. Continue on the Rampapo-Dunderberg until the intersection with the 1777 Trail. If you would like, continue on the RD to climb the Timp – it’s not far, and there is not too much elevation gain. There is a large rock outcropping that has views onto West Mountain. Follow the RD back to the 1777 Trail and make a left. You will lose all your elevation on this wide trail that becomes a paved road. But, you will enter historic Doodletown, which thrived in the early 1900s. You can spend a lot of time in Doodletown – the 1777 Trail, though, will make its way back to the Cornell Mine trail and where you parked your car. Two mountains, some mines, and a historic abandoned town? There’s a lot to see here. (6.73 miles) Harriman State Park In southern Harriman state park, one of my favorite hikes is the Pine Meadow Loop. Note that this area is one of the most popular areas in southern Harriman and parking can get very crowded. Arrive super early to ensure you find a spot. You can find parking on Seven Lakes Drive around the Reeves Meadow Visitor Center. Take the Pine Meadow (red) Trail all the way up to the lake. The lake alone is worth the hike, and makes a great spot to picnic. I like this hike for the history and hike all the way around the lake. Follow the trail clockwise, passing many viewpoints of the lake and historical markers. At the eastern end of the lake, the Pine Meadow Trail veers left and you will want to jump on the Conklin’s Crossing Trail (white.) You will only be on this trail for a few minutes, as you will look for an unmarked trail to the right. This goes around the lake and meanders through an old Civilian Conservation Corps Camp. The trail joins up with the Pine Meadow Road and finishes circling the lake. Take the Pine Meadow Trail back to the visitor center. If you decide to take the Kakiat Trail (white) as an alternate, know that the bridge is out where it crosses Stony Brook. (8.24 miles) A final hike starts from the parking lot on Kanawauke Road – take 17 north to the junction of 17A, make a right, and the parking lot is on the right after you pass Lake Stahahe. From the parking lot, head south on the White Bar trail around Car Pond Mountain. When you come to the junction of the Triangle Trail (yellow) make a left and take this all the way up Parker Cabin Mountain. Gorgeous views from the east greet you at the top. Make a left on the Ramapo-Dunderberg trail and head north to Tom Jones Mountain. At the top you will find the Tom Jones Shelter. Follow the RD trail north, down the mountain to the road. Cross Kanawauke Road and follow the trail uphill, steeply at times. At the top of the steep climb you will get to Black Rock (amazing views) and the junction with the Nurian Trail (white.) If you have had enough for the day, you can take this back to the lot. Or, you can continue on the RD to the junction with the Denning Trail (yellow,) crossing the highest point in Harriman State Park. You will pass the Bold Rocks shelter along the way. Make a left at the Dunning and take this to the White Bar trail, and follow this down to your car; ensuring you stay left at the junction with the Nurian Trail. (7.07 miles) A couple of notes: I highly recommend the NY NJ Trail Conference map set for this park. The maps have all the trails, shelters, parking lots, topography, unmarked trails, roads, and more. The maps from the parks themselves are good, but there is so much more on the Conference maps. Link here – I’m not a member, but these maps are invaluable. And, they are great for planning your route from the parking lots. Need to Know Information Harriman State Park is found in Rockland and Orange counties in New York, with Bear Mountain State Park bordering it on the east. Bear Mountain State Park rises from the banks of the Hudson River and besides hiking, includes an inn, a Merry-Go-Round, the Trailside Zoo and an ice rink. The Perkins fire tower is reachable by car (and trail) atop Bear Mountain; by car following Perkins Memorial Drive. There are many many miles of trails in both parks, with many trails crossing the park borders. Both parks include swimming areas (when open,) group campsites, and shelters for hikers. The Appalachian Trail winds its way through both parks. Permits are required for some group campsites, fees are required for day use areas. There is a $10 fee to park in the Bear Mountain Inn lot (which is huge), though there are plenty of lots and trails that leave from parking lots scattered around both parks. Both parks are open year-round; which affords some great winter hiking – though, bear (excuse the pun) in mind, some roads that cut through Harriman State Park are closed during the winter. Check the websites: Harriman & Bear Mountain. Best Time to Go Both parks are open year round. Some non-bridged stream crossings can be more challenging in the Spring with increased water levels from snowmelt and rain. Fall is probably the most popular due to the colors of the Fall foliage. You will see people in the winter. Super Important Note: The Reeves Meadow Visitor Center (which has a small lot) gets insanely packed. There is a pull-out lot across the street, but if you get to that lot late (8 am?) cars will be parked all along Seven Lakes Drive. This is a VERY popular trailhead. Getting There The main parking lot for Bear Mountain is at the Bear Mountain Inn (and costs $10.) That lot is huge. There are free lots scattered along 9W, 202, and Seven Lakes Drive. Parking in Harriman can be found at the day-use sites (which may have fees) and along Route 6, Seven Lakes Drive, Arden Valley Road, Kanawauke Road and Johnsontown Road. A Harriman parking area map can be found here. Maps and Books Both park sites have maps you can print. I cannot recommend enough the maps produced by the NY NJ Trail Conference. These maps have it all, trails, contour lines, roads, parking, unmarked trails, and forest roads. I find them invaluable. Harriman Trails is an excellent book describing the trails, unmarked trails, roads, lakes, mines, and history of both parks. While not necessarily a route-planning tool, the book will give great color to where ever you plan to go in the parks. Finally, if you plan to explore the abandoned town of Doodletown, I highly recommend the book: Doodletown: Hiking through history in a vanished hamlet on the Hudson. The author was one of the last residents to leave the town.

Fill Power is a grading system for goose / duck down. Often abbreviated as FP. Higher fill power will add more loft and warmth to an outdoor garment or sleeping bag at the same given amount of weight. Measured using a cubic inch per oz system. 500 fill power down will fill 500 cubic inches of space per ounce used. 900 will fill 900 cubic inches of space per ounce. A high fill power down cluster. What Fill Power is Best? It all depends on the application. For use off the trail (in town, at home) just about any fill power will do, as weight of the garment or sleeping bag is not a concern. This would be a good time to save the cash over a higher fill power option. For the trail however where every ounce counts, a higher fill power jacket like the REI Co-op Magma 850 will save weight; going with the highest fill power you can get that is still in the budget will get you gear that weighs less but could contain the same loft (and warmth) as a heavier lower fill power down option. To sum things up, in a higher fill product the same amount of garment / bag warmth can be achieved for less weight. Higher fill power is considerably more expensive than lower level down. For more on backpacking insulation, see our article Backpacking Gear: Down vs. Synthetic Insulation. For more information on jackets, see our article on 3-season backpacking clothing, and for sleeping bags, check out our guide on How the Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag. Editor's Note: This Jargon installment originally appeared in Issue 2 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can find the original article here.

In 1943 and after years of fruitless political wrangling, President Franklin D. Roosevelt finally used his unilateral authority under the Antiquities Act to establish Jackson Hole National Monument. The state challenged the monument declaration in court. Ranchers drove cattle across the Monument in direct defiance of Federal authority. On one side, there were accusations about rich outsiders interfering in local matters. On the other side, conservationists launched a campaign to convince the public that the ecological and historical significance of the area should be forever preserved. In 1950, all sides reached an uneasy compromise. The new National Monument, encompassing much of western Wyoming’s famed Jackson Hole, would be incorporated into the existing (but previously much smaller) Grand Teton National Park. In exchange, Congress would amend the Antiquities Act to curtail the President’s ability to designate future National Monuments in the state of Wyoming. Nearly seventy years later, a similar drama played out in southeastern Utah. After years of fruitless political wrangling, outgoing president Barack Obama established the 1.3 million-acre Bears Ears National Monument at the request of five local tribes who consider the area sacred. The ultimate outcome for Bears Ears still remains to be seen. Continued partisan squabbling continues to rule the day. But let’s shift our focus. Politics and 115-year-old acts of Congress aside, let’s instead put the focus where it rightfully belongs – on the land itself. Let’s journey, as I do several times a year, to Bears Ears. Backpacking in Bears Ears On a chilly November’s day, we begin our hike on the expansive, flat-topped Cedar Mesa. Bears Ears is a place of huge views from horizon to horizon. It’s wild land on a large scale. The Monument’s borders don’t just include the famous Bears Ears buttes themselves, but a huge swath of landscape. We wander along a disused jeep road for a few miles, marveling at the cryptobiotic soil crust that’s started to make a comeback now that vehicles no longer roam here. We enjoy the rising sun illuminating the distant Mancos Mesa and the tips of the Bears Ears. Soon enough, the old jeep road ends and we join one of the few maintained trails in the monument. Like most enduring projects, it was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 30s. Young, underemployed men moved an inordinate amount of rock, scratching and blasting their way down into the canyon. Notwithstanding their efforts, the trail is still rugged and unmarked, but it’s infinitely easier than most approaches into this sprawling 70-mile canyon system. As we descend, our large-scale world is replaced by an intimate one. Below the rim, hidden alcoves and brush-choked side canyons replace the huge views. Our minds drift back 700 years in time as we wander up-canyon in search of a campsite. The canyon is beautiful to be sure, but tough to eke out an existence in. Small pools and potholes are only as dependable as the recent rains. Algae often fouls the few perennial springs around here. Even modest agriculture seems unfathomable. Yet, people lived here for centuries. It’s hard to go more than a mile or two in this great sprawling canyon without seeing evidence of Ancestral Puebloan presence. Enigmatic images (some notable and bold, others faint and hidden) are painted or etched onto smooth rock walls. Sooty cook fires, extinguished for more than seven centuries now, still stain the undersides of great sandstone alcoves. Granaries dot nearly-inaccessible ledges. Intrepid travelers can even spot a housing complex or ceremonial kivas – all from a respectful distance, of course. Nowadays, the gulch is a place of natural wonder and wildness. But it doesn’t take a particularly active historical imagination to see this canyon bustling with the goings-on of any society – agriculture, familial squabbles, religious contemplation, celebration of holidays and life landmarks, and even warfare from time to time. For many years, it was believed that the ancients mysteriously disappeared around 1300 AD. But more up-to-date scholarship, congruent with the testimony of many oral traditions, suggests that the people didn’t disappear at all. They simply moved south and east, perhaps in search of a more hospitable climate. Human habitation in the Bears Ears region has always teetered on the edge of the abyss in one form of another. The ancients experienced numerous cycles of flourishing and collapse over the period of a few thousand years. In more recent times, resource utilization and extraction (causing additional controversy), be it grazing land or uranium/petroleum deposits, has continued the boom-and-bust cycle for many towns in the area. As the local climate continues to get warmer and drier, will drought once again cause the stagnation or even recession of civilization in this part of the world? Such ruminations abruptly cease as the sun makes its departure behind the canyon rim. Even the dim and meager sunshine, shining low in the southern sky at this time of year, cast a feeble warmth over the landscape while it was up. As soon as it’s gone though, the temperature plummets. It’s time to eat and go to bed. Dinner is a simple affair, cooked and eaten quickly as the cold settles in. I can only get through a couple chapters of a truly terrible paperback before bundling into bed. As usual, the sky is clear and the stars are bright. They’re conditions that would make any astronomer envious, but the only observatory around here is my downy sleeping bag, flopped out under a starry tapestry. Not all is idyllic of course. The same harsh climate that the ancients contended with roars to life, driving strong winds down the canyon and stinging us with sand. The romanticism of a cowboy camp on a dark night has only yielded me watery eyes and more than a little grit in my teeth. We’re warm enough overnight, but barely. The wind has a certain bite at this time of year. But just two months earlier, it was scorching hot. It’s hard to win in a land of extremes. Even now, locals contend with drought. A hundred head of cattle choke down meager vegetation and congregate around a handful of ramshackle-looking but meticulously-maintained waterworks. It still isn’t easy to scratch together a living in these parts. It’s little wonder that certain ranchers oppose any additional regulations, even though the Monument text preserves existing grazing leases. We pack up quickly the next morning, skipping breakfast, and climb back up the way we came. On the mesa top, juniper trees pock the landscape. Far fewer Ancestral Puebloan sites are preserved up here, owing to the harsh climate. But some sites do remain, many of them fortifications designed to repel enemy attacks. In modern times, local tribes use the mesa tops for gathering firewood and foraging for other traditional plants. The native legacy of Bears Ears is not limited to the past; it continues right up to the present day. It’s no wonder that the tribes were the earliest, loudest, and most consistent voice calling for the protection of this vital area. Reflecting on a Hike in Bears Ears Back at the car, we reflect on the trip. It was a short one. But Bears Ears isn’t a place to crush miles. Bears Ears lends itself to wandering and quiet contemplation. It reveals its secrets not to the thru-hiker, but to the wanderer. It demands respect for both the ancient and modern inhabitants of this land. Explore the alcove tucked away in that dead-end canyon. Squint at the sandstone panel, and you might be able to make out a series of painted-on handprints. Observe the granaries and ruins from a respectful distance. Follow Leave No Trace principles assiduously. Revel in a place that’s wild, yes, but with a long and storied human history. Bears Ears is a marvel, if only you know where to look. Need to Know Information Bears Ears National Monument protects a large swath of southeastern Utah. The monument lies south and east of the existing Canyonlands National Park. Unlike some other National Monuments, it doesn’t protect a particular terrain feature or archaeological site, but a large area of wild landscapes and dispersed sites. The monument was created partly in response to over a century of looting and vandalism at irreplaceable cultural and historic sites. Please visit with respect and Leave No Trace. Best Time to Go Summers can be very hot in Bears Ears, even at higher elevations, while winters often bring snow and ice. Spring and fall are typically great times to visit. Getting There The town of Moab is served by an airport with regularly-scheduled flights, mostly puddle-jumpers to Denver or Salt Lake City. As of 2022, Moab, Monticello, and Blanding are also served by daily bus service. Though, most trailheads in Bears Ears are located well off the beaten path and only accessible by private vehicle. The Edge of the Cedars State Park & Museum in Blanding makes an excellent introduction to the area and is a fascinating way to spend an afternoon. Those wishing to explore the famous Cedar Mesa should stop by the Kane Gulch Ranger Station (staffed seasonally) to pick up a required dayhiking or overnight permit and learn about best practices for visiting ruins and cultural sites. Books and Maps Bears Ears is a rather new monument that’s been embroiled by shifting borders and political controversy from its inception. As such, not many resources are yet available. One solid, if modest, guidebook is Exploring Utah’s Bears Ears and Cedar Mesa, available from Falcon Guides. The book focuses mainly on day trips, but includes a few backpacks as well, and plenty of inspiration for creating one’s own, longer adventures. The book also places great emphasis on visiting the Monument with respect. Trails Illustrated Map # 706 covers most of the monument. For a big picture view and for getting to and from the trailhead, see the Delorme Utah Atlas & Gazetteer. This story by Kevin DeVries, photos by Justin Swanson. Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 53 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

One of the big 3 of backpacking gear choices (backpack, tent or shelter, and sleeping bag), the backpacking backpack you choose will have a profound impact on your comfort during the hiking day. Your pack will also be one of the more expensive items you’ll purchase, and to get the best pack within your budget a little research will be needed as there are a myriad of packs out there on the market. In this guide, we’ll look at the best backpacking packs currently on the market based upon anticipated pack weight and packing category (ultralight, lightweight, heavy weight) along with some budget options as well. For the purposes of this guide, we’ll focus on performance, availability, reasonable price, and reasonable longevity for the intended purpose. Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpacks If you’re a weekend or overnight backpacker and / or manage to keep your total pack weight at around 25lbs or less, more ultralight backpacking packs may be worth a look. That said, if you do plan on going over this weight from time to time, and prefer a quiver of one, the next section in this article may be more appropriate to evaluate. For ultralight loads however, the frameless ULA Photon (35L total, 26 ounces, $220) from Ultralight Adventure Equipment is not the lightest pack out there, but is tough and has excellent comfort at these weights along with a livable pocket configuration. For a bit of a space and a carrying ability upgrade, look at the ULA Ohm (63L, 34 ounces, $280) as well as the ULA CDT (54L total, 27 ounces, $220). The Zpacks Nero Ultra 38L (38L total space, 10 ounces, $250) offers an ultralight option for the lightest of ultralight packers, but in typical Zpacks style still has organization and features you need in a pack of this nature. The Super Nero Ultra 50L boosts the space up to 50L total, with a pack weight of just 12 ounces at $270. Both of these packs are suggested for 20lbs or less of total pack weight. Another option is the MLD (Mountain Laurel Designs) Burn. This pack weighs in just over a pound and retails for $325 with 38L of storage. Featuring the tried and true combination of roll top main compartment, outside pocket, side pockets, and hipbelt pockets, the Burn is a nice option for ultralight overnights or beyond, so long as you are indeed focusing on the “ultra” of ultralight. Summary: Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpacks ULA Photon ULA Ohm ULA CDT Zpacks Nero Ultra 38 Zpacks Super Nero Ultra 50 MLD Burn Best Lightweight & Long Distance Backpacks This is the bread and butter category of backpacking packs if you’re focused on lightweight backpacking, planning longer trips where saving weight is a priority, or if you're planning on thru-hiking a long trail. These are the packs that are just right most of the time, just fine (if a little under-loaded) for an overnight, and can be pushed for longer trips – although they may not be the most comfortable for hauling heavy loads the first few days out and until some of that consumable weight is reduced. In this category and if your pack weight will be under 35-40lbs two packs from ULA Equipment have been a favorite choice of both mine and the backpacking community for years. My pick is the ULA Circuit (total volume 68L, 38.5 ounces, $300) that I’ve used on overnights up to 10 day trips and everything in between, although it’s definitely pushing it for trips over a week for me (whether you’d want to grab a pack from the next section in this article is a personal call). If you’ll be packing a little heavier, trend towards longer trips, and / or like more space the ULA Catalyst (75L total, 44.4 ounces, $320) will make more sense. To save a little weight and for a more waterproof pack Ultra versions of both of these packs are available. These two packs feature my favorite storage configuration for the trail (as previously described): large roll top main compartment, large outside back pocket, side pockets, and hipbelt pockets. In either case, you simply cannot go wrong with these two venerable ULA packs if you’ll be carrying less than 40lbs fully loaded (I’ve had 50lbs in the Circuit, not suggested but the pack was no worse for wear). And as a quick note if you're looking for a great kid's pack look no further than the ULA Spark. Another and newer pack to check out in this category is the Durston Kakwa 55 (around 60L total, about 31 ounces, $200-$260). This pack can be either had in the more affordable UltraGrid fabric option or Ultra 200X. Either way you get a pack with impressive organization at reasonable prices, and a pack that’s quite light but still can carry up to 45lbs. A note on Ultra: while many manufacturers have begun using Ultra (100X / 200X / 400X) fabrics for packs, durability has been mixed on the original fabric and the jury is still out on newer, further reinforced X versions. That said an Ultra pack will get you a completely waterproof pack (except seams unless taped). UltraGrid however, is a heavier denier nylon with a UHMWPE gridstop and a PU coating on the inside. This coating is rated at a 1500mm hydrostatic head – that’s as waterproof as some tents on the market. Fabrics similar to UltraGrid have proven themselves over the years. They will become more water-resistant in time, but these fabrics have held up very well to the trail – on or off trail for that matter – and have handled abrasion situations very well in my experience. Long story short, it is hard to beat a good gridstop fabric for packs. Gridstop may not be the most waterproof, but I have gridstop packs with a decade+ of usage that are still quite water resistant and there are other ways to keep your backpacking gear dry. This would include using a pack liner or a large dry bag or two…or alternatively a trash compactor bag would be suggested in regards to pack waterproofing. Gridstops aren’t as trendy as laminates, but I fully expect 10 years or more of use out of packs made with these gridstop ~200+ denier nylon fabrics and there is a lot to be said for that. Back to backpacks, for the lightest of the light, the Zpacks Arc Haul Ultra 60L (60L total storage, about 22 ounces, $400) is worth consideration – this pack is rated to carry 40lbs via a carbon fiber frame system with integrated back ventilation and as a bonus is also available in a women's specific version. The pack uses a lighter Ultra 100X to save weight – so this pack will be better for users that are willing to be a little careful with their gear in order to save the weight. Summary: Best Lightweight & Long Distance Backpacks ULA Circuit ULA Catalyst ULA Spark (for kids) Durston Kakwa 55 Zpacks Arc Haul Ultra 60 & Women's Best Load Hauler Backpacking Packs Weight (of the pack itself...or weight carried within it for that matter) can quickly spiral out of control in this category, with some manufacturers offering packs here that can weigh well over 5lbs. In this category we have a few main venerable larger players, with one example being the Gregory Baltoro and the Gregory Deva series, in particular the Baltoro 75 liter (~80 ounces, $360) and the Baltoro 85 Pro (around 88 ounces, $400), with the women’s version being offered in the Deva 70 backpack (about 75 ounces, $360) as well as the larger Deva 80 Pro pack (~84 ounces, $400). If you’re looking for a cushy mainstream get-it-done pack to haul large loads that can be on your doorstep a few days from now, the Baltoro and Deva packs have been a go-to for many years and are rated to carry up to 70lbs. Saving weight for the pack itself is not however a strong point here. If you’ll be hauling a heavy load (long trips, lots of food and water, or extras like packrafts or camera gear) but still have a lightweight approach like me, you may need to look at smaller companies to fill this niche. Leaders in this category include the Superior Wilderness Designs Wolverine 95L (a 70L is also offered) pack as well as their 95L Big Wild pack (no large outside back pocket), also offered in a 70L version. While color is usually not my primary concern when selecting a pack, these two SWD packs for better or worse are only made in Ultra 400X fabric which only comes in white or black – which I’d have to say, would be towards my last 2 choices when it comes to something like a pack or tent color. That said, these packs are rated to carry up over 50lbs for around $400 and will come in around 40 ounces for the pack itself, plus or minus depending on options. Be sure to check out their available add-ons if you want something like a hydration port or hipbelt pockets. A couple other packs stand out here: Nunatak makes extraordinary gear and offers their Plateau Pack (around 40 ounces, $350) with an up to 75L capacity and capable of carrying 50+ lbs. If you need something even larger, check out the Sockdolager Equipment Bad Larry pack ($475, 3lbs or so depending on options) with Dan Ransom’s tubular aluminum twin stays. The 90L Bad Larry was designed for packrafting, but packrafting specific features can be removed and you end up with a competitive backpacking load hauler pack. These two packs are more custom built and you’ll have to see if things like hydration ports or hipbelt pockets can be added. Be it Superior Wilderness Designs or Nunatak or Sockdolager, plan in advance and buckle up for some wait times. Seek Outside also offers a couple packs worth checking out – although Seek Outside seems to lean towards the lightweight backcountry hunting crowd, some of their products can be adapted to lightweight backpacking like the 79L Divide 2.0 ($505, 55 ounces). However, Seek Outside takes no custom requests so if you want something like a hydration port, you’re out of luck unless you want to start cutting and sewing yourself. That said Seek Outside’s frames are uniquely rated for pretty much whatever weight you can physically carry, so if you’re wanting to sign up for a suffer fest in regards to pack weight, these are the packs that would be up to the task. Summary: Best Load Hauler Backpacking Packs Gregory Baltoro Gregory Deva SWD Big Wild 95 SWD Wolverine 95 Nunatak Plateau Pack Sockdolager Bad Larry Seek Outside Divide 2.0 Best Budget Backpacking Packs If you want to keep it under $200 (at least before shipping and tax) – which I would very much consider a budget range for a backpacking pack – the previously mentioned Durston Kakwa 55 in UltraGrid offers quite a bit of value in this category as long as you’re packing somewhat lightweight, with the REI Co-op Flash 55 (about 55 liters, just under 3lbs, $200) offering another option that’s worth ample consideration. The REI Co-op Flash has the bonus of being offered in both a men’s and women’s version and in my experience, this line has demonstrated good value and very acceptable performance. Another interesting sub-$200 option can be found in the Osprey Rook 65 backpack (men's) and the Osprey Renn 65L (women's). Designed to carry up to 40lbs, these packs offer 65 liters of space, basic features, and can be had for about $190 while weighing in just under 4lbs. A pack from the REI Co-op Flash series. It is also worth checking out the REI Co-op Outlet from time to time, as you can often find many packs or last year’s model that will be perfectly serviceable at a discount here. For a budget load hauler pack, this can be tough since these are typically the larger and more feature-packed (expensive) options. The aforementioned REI Co-op Outlet is a good place to start your search. That said the Kelty Asher 85 is also worth consideration – as you’d expect it’s an 85 liter pack that weighs in close to 6 pounds, but can carry a heavy load and retails for just under $200 full price. Summary: Best Budget Backpacking Packs Durston Kakwa UltraGrid REI Co-op Flash 55 Osprey Rook 65 Osprey Renn 65 REI Co-op Outlet Packs Kelty Asher 85 My Approach to Backpacking Packs and in Conclusion If you like to keep your gear simple and want one pack to do it all, there are a few ways to go about your approach. You can pick a pack rated for the heaviest load you’ll ever carry, and while it may be a bit much for shorter trips it will work. Or you could go for a pack rated for the typical load you’ll carry, but your shoulders may be complaining at the start of longer trips. This can be done if you’re only rarely expecting to take these kinds of trips and saving the cash is more important than comfort (not my choice). You could also pick a pack for overnights, another for most trips in the middle, and an even larger pack for load hauling and the longest excursions. For me, I like two packs: one do it all (from the lightweight and long distance category) and another load hauler for extended trips with extra gear. One advantage of this route (multiple packs) is that it spreads the wear out a bit and your packs will last longer. For more information on how to choose a backpacking backpack, size, materials, and pack features and considerations, see our guide on How to Choose the Best Backpacking and Hiking Backpack. For a large selection of various backpacking packs that you can sort and filter by capacity and more, see this page at REI Co-op. For Related reading on the "big 3" see our articles, Best Backpacking Tents by Application and Budget as well as How to Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag.

Hi Rob and welcome. What type of production quality are you looking for? Most would use a smartphone if you have one. For a higher production quality than that, and they are often pretty good, you’d be looking at some more expensive professional or higher end camera gear.

Hey everyone I am Rob from IL. I am new to hiking trails and have a trip planned in late August to Acadia National Park. We are going to hike the beehive trail and I was wanting to record it. What is the cheapest but good quality camera to record with? Can anyone give me some advice. I am looking between 50-80 dollars if that is even possible.

An important core backpacking gear item, your backpacking sleeping bag needs to be light enough to carry easily, pack small enough as to not take over your entire pack, and most importantly keep you warm and comfortable at night. In this guide we’ll focus on the best backpacking sleeping bags currently on the market by temperature rating. As this is a backpacking focused article weight of the sleeping bag and warmth to weight ratio will be of a paramount focus here, with down bags ruling the roost. For a basecamp scenario, synthetic bags would be worth consideration. See our guide on down vs. synthetic insulation for more information and background. For the purposes of this article, we will focus on features, weight, and performance. Best 30F+ & Summer Rated Backpacking Sleeping Bags This can be a complicated category with many options. Bags in this range can be very light, but early morning hours can be a bit crisp and ample warmth will be appreciated during the night. My pick hands down would be the Zpacks Classic 30 degree sleeping bag. Weighing in at just 14 ounces and going for $440, this bag is made with DownTek 900 fill power water resistant down and is available in 7 different sizes. Going to a hoodless sleeping bag (I mostly use the Zpacks 20 degree) has changed my backcountry sleeping for the better – now I can turn with the bag, or inside the bag, no matter. Additionally with the zipper on the bottom maximum heat is retained and you have no zipper at the top (leaking the most hot air) no matter if you’re a back sleeper or a side sleeper. In milder conditions above the shoulders just a warm hat works well for me, but if it gets cold at night you can add in an additional goose hood. Traditional top-tier manufacturers include Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering. When it comes to Western Mountaineering, they offer a variety of bags in this category, many that don’t have much difference between each other from a big picture point of view. Their MegaLite 30 degree sleeping bag weighs in at 24 ounces and is a nice option if you like more traditional design features. The MegaLite uses 850 fill down and is a wider bag with a passive draft collar that I’ve found is sufficient down to around freezing. Western Mountaineering bags aren’t cheap – the MegaLite will set you back about $600 – but with proper care these are bags that will last darn near forever. For slimmer users and in warmer conditions one could consider the Western Mountaineering SummerLite (around $500, 19 ounces) – although we’ve found this one starts to take on a chill as temperatures close in towards the freezing mark, it would be ideal for warmer nights. Both the MegaLite and SummerLite from Western Mountaineering feature a fully baffled construction (the bag is not sewn through to create the baffles – a sewn through bag results in a lighter and possibly less expensive construction but will have cold spots when temperatures drop). The Western Mountaineering FlyLite is a newer bag that is an option for warmer weather trips – it’s rated to 36 degrees, weighs just ~14 ounces in a standard width, and retails for just over $500. This makes it the lightest fully baffled bag Western Mountaineering offers. Draft tubes, draft collars, continuous baffles, and so on are not as critical during warmer conditions and their omission can save weight, but I find I've always appreciated these features in the field. Feathered Friends additionally offers top of the line down sleeping bags including the Hummingbird UL 30 ($550, about 22 ounces). This is a narrower bag (saves weight, more efficient) so keep that in mind, but if you’ll fit, as with Western Mountaineering this 950 fill power down bag is expensive but worth it. For women Feathered Friends offers their Egret UL 30 ($550, about 24 ounces) with an even narrower cut but in a more women’s-specific shape. Wider bags from Feathered Friends include the Swift UL 30 ($580, about 26 ounces) and the more middle of the road width wise Swallow UL 30 (24 ounces, $570). It will be hard to go wrong with a Feathered Friends bag, so long as you get the right fit. Another option is the REI Co-op Magma 30 (averaging around 25 ounces, $380) – offered in no less than 9 sizes for an almost custom type of fit, this bag keeps it lightweight via use of an 850 fill power water resistant down, standard features, and you even get an interior pocket. While of all things backpacking a down sleeping bag is one place where I would not try to cut budget, this is one bag that could be considered more in the budget category if you catch it on sale. Summary: Best 30F+ & Summer Rated Sleeping Bags (and rating F) Zpacks Classic 30 Western Mountaineering MegaLite (30) Western Mountaineering SummerLite (32) Western Mountaineering FlyLite (36) Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 30 Feathered Friends Egret UL 30 Feathered Friends Swift UL 30 Feathered Friends Swallow UL 30 REI Co-op Magma 30 Best 20 Degree Range Sleeping Bags Everything in nature seems to change below freezing, and at these temperatures I find that it becomes more important to consider those extra features like a nice draft tube and hood, with a draft collar being very much appreciated. For me and many others that backpack mostly in mountain terrain, the 20 degree bag gets the most use 3 seasons out of the year. These are your bread and butter sleeping bags, and from my perspective if you’re looking for the best sleeping bag in this category, you’ll likely be looking at the same brands we’ve previously discussed. Feathered Friends offers their versatile Hummingbird UL 20 (24 ounces, $610) – with the Feathered Friends Egret 20 (~28 ounces, around $610) being a women’s-specific option in this temperature range. These are narrower bags to save the most weight. However, if you like a little more space in a bag as I do, check out the Swallow UL 20 (27 ounces, $630). In regards to Western Mountaineering, we can narrow this down to the venerable UltraLite 20 degree (29 ounces, $630) – which is your narrow / standard option – and the wider and perhaps more comfortable 20 degree AlpinLite (31 ounces, $710). Although it’s a bit heavier the AlpinLite’s space wins out for me out of these two bags, but as with Feathered Friends, you can’t go wrong here. That said as previously mentioned and although I have had many a comfortable backcountry night in a WM AlpinLite, my preference for a backpacking sleeping bag has evolved towards the hoodless category. The Zpacks 20 Degree Classic sleeping bag (~19 ounces, $460) is my current choice for a bag in this temperature range – I find at these temperatures a hoodless bag is ideal (so long as I wear the warm hat I already take and wear a jacket with a hood). You can find my review of the Zpacks 20 here, although Zpacks has since updated the bag just a bit with upgrades. Zpacks again also offers their goose hood, but with a warm hat and jacket hood, I haven’t personally needed this until temps fall below 20. That said if you’re not ready to give up your sleeping bag hood, Zpacks also offers their 20 degree Mummy sleeping bag (23 ounces in medium standard, $580) with a built-in traditional hood. When on sale, for a more budget option in this category we’ll go ahead and put the REI Co-op Magma 15 in this category (comfort limit: 21 degrees). With a weight of around 36 ounces depending on size and retailing at $429 full price, this bag offers a very reasonable weight in 9 different sizes for a tailored fit, and at a very reasonable price especially if you catch it on sale. Summary: Best 20 Degree Range Sleeping Bags Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 20 Feathered Friends Egret UL 20 Feathered Friends Swallow UL 20 Western Mountaineering UltraLite (20) Western Mountaineering AlpinLite (20) Zpacks 20 Degree Classic Zpacks 20 Degree Mummy REI Co-op Magma 15 Best Winter and Cold Weather (Zero and 10 Degree) Sleeping Bags I find that it’s more versatile to have 2 warmer rated bags, combining them to form a winter sleep system when needed for cold winter trips rather than keeping a bag from this category on hand. As an example, I’ve combined a 20 degree and a more summer-oriented bag and stayed warm (with appropriate sleeping pads and a total r-value for the temperature) on winter trips nearing minus 20F. That said if you have one 3 season bag that covers all seasons other than winter, sleep especially cold and want a warmer bag for 3 season mountain trips, or are looking to add in a dedicated winter bag, a bag in this category may be desired. Same players, different temperature ratings again here. The 2lb., $735 Western Mountaineering VersaLite 10 degree sleeping bag is a solid choice on the warmer end of this category. One nice thing about the Versalite is that it’s in the middle width-wise – just right. Going back a bit to their 20 degree options if the UltraLite was a bit too tight, and the AlpinLite a bit too wide, the VersaLite will likely be a perfect choice. For a women’s-specific bag check out the 10 degree Feathered Friends Petrel UL 10 (2lbs, $660). This is a super high quality women’s bag that is not unheard of on packing lists even for summer trips in the mountains for cold sleepers. As a women’s bag I haven’t personally used the Petrel, but having seen this bag being used in the field on many occasions I’m never surprised by the loft of Petrel – you may need a bigger pack! At these temperatures I do think a sleeping bag hood is something good to have – you want to retain every bit of heat your body puts off during the night within a singular compartment and bag. Thus the 28 ounce, $600 Zpacks Mummy Sleeping Bag in a 10 degree would be well worth consideration here for hikers looking to save weight. On cold winter trips, I prioritize warmth and features over weight. The colder it becomes the less I am personally concerned about weight – I prioritize warmth and comfort – and the last thing I’d want is a constricting bag on a winter night that could last 16 hours or more. In their wide mummy series the Feathered Friends Raven 10 UL (34 ounces, $700) would make for a top of the line choice in a 10 degree bag, but if saving the weight is more critical (via less width), the Feathered Friends Lark 10 UL (31 ounces, $680) would be the next logical choice here. Pushing the rating to 0F Feathered Friends offers their women’s Murre ES 0 degree bag (3lbs, $780) as well as their Ibis ES 0 Degree (50 ounces, $820). With a focus on heating efficiency, both of these bags have a bit of a narrow cut to be aware of – as with many things, there are pros and cons. Summary: Best Winter and Cold Weather Sleeping Bags Western Mountaineering VersaLite (10) Feathered Friends Petrel UL 10 Zpacks 10 Degree Mummy Feathered Friends Raven 10 UL Feathered Friends Lark 10 UL Feathered Friends Murre ES 0 Feathered Friends Ibis ES 0 Deep Winter / Expedition Sleeping Bags While I prefer to combine 2 bags to make a poor man’s expedition bag for general winter backpacking trips in the lower 48, if I were to plan an Arctic expedition, a cold mountaineering summit attempt, or for some type of cold northern basecamp type scenario, an expedition bag would certainly be appreciated in these unique circumstances. Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering offer some very intriguing, and impressive, choices here that both throw plenty of goose down at the issue. The Western Mountaineering Bison Stormshield (69 ounces, $1360) is rated to -40F with 10” of loft and a weather-resistant shell. This bag is sized generously for additional comfort on those long winter nights. On the Feathered Friends side, their -40F solution can be found in the Snow Goose ES -40 (65 ounces, $1170). This bag is another bag that’s sized generously for more comfort and space if you’ll be spending a lot of time in your sleeping bag. If -40F isn’t warm enough however, the 78 ounce, $1360 Snowy Owl ES -60 bag from Feathered Friends may be up your alley for the most epic of arctic level expeditions. Summary: Deep Winter / Expedition Sleeping Bags Western Mountaineering Bison Stormshield (-40) Feathered Friends Snow Goose ES -40 Feathered Friends Snowy Owl -60 Whether it's an expedition sleeping bag rated to 60 below or a featherweight summer bag that packs up smaller than a water bottle, there is a sleeping bag on the market for every possible use and scenario. In Conclusion A critical item on your gear list, there are a few ways to go about your sleeping bag strategy. You could choose to go with a bag rated for the lowest temperatures you’ll ever backpack in, but this bag may be overly bulky and heavy for warm summer trips (albeit workable). To save weight, I like to go with a 2 bag system, a warmer bag for downright summer-like weather, and a 20 degree bag that gets the vast majority of use for 3-season trips in the mountains where lows in the 20s are not uncommon in August. When I head out on a winter trip, I combine them. Whether you opt for a 1 bag approach or a multitude of bags ideal for every scenario, sleeping warm adds to any trip – and while a slightly heavier and warmer bag may not rule the ultralight spreadsheet, some temperature rating buffer is always appreciated at night when you’re out there. For a list of sleeping bags from various manufacturers that you can sort and filter by temperature rating and more, see this page at REI Co-op. For background info on sleeping bags, refer to our guide on How to Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag. For additional related “big 3” and “big 4” gear selection, take a look at our articles: Choosing the Best Backpacking Sleeping Pad as well as Best Backpacking Backpacks by Category, and Best Backpacking Tents by Application and Budget.

Unique among the seasons, winter wields the power to make many hiking destinations inaccessible. Roads are gated due to snow, mountain passes become snowbound and hazardous, and specific four-season gear is required in many regions for those venturing out in the winter months. Human-powered recreation is mostly left to snowshoers, skiers, snowboarders, and winter is also a good time to focus on cleaning gear, summer trip planning, fitness routines, racking up vacation time, and other hobbies. Getting away to a warmer locale for a few days or a week also doesn’t hurt if you’re able to accommodate the expense of time and money. In winter, places inherently seem to become more remote. The Wilderness of Winter Winter also has the singular ability to bring a feeling of wilderness and raw nature to places that feel mundane, even boring, in other seasons. Many of the bumpy and potholed forest roads flanked by endless lodgepole pines that are merely tolerated on drives to the trailhead in the summer become the proverbial “winter wonderland” with the addition of a few feet of snow. Putting on the cross-country skis and heading up one of these roads for a few miles to a scenic overlook that merited only a glance out the window before driving further a few months before becomes an expedition to a breathtaking picnic spot. A cabin that you could drive to in June is transformed into a rustic outpost where you can sit in quintessential tranquility and watch snow fall while a woodstove heats the tiny structure. Favorite trails suddenly take on an Arctic charm that highlights the rock and water features, especially when the water turns to ice. Animal tracks left in the snow can be examined with a clarity rarely provided in typical dirt patches on the trail. The play of light and reflections of the sun off the snow make for near-mystical conditions. If you have the gear and experience to safely and comfortably do overnight trips in the winter months, the stargazing is incredible. The skies are can be exceedingly clear and the stars come out much earlier compared to the summer months. As long as you have the gear to stay comfortable in periods of inactivity in cold conditions, you can fit in some amazing stargazing between dinner and a reasonable bedtime. If you’re staying in a cabin or other structure, such as a lookout, you can head back inside to warm up, make some tea or hot chocolate, and head back out with your beverage in an insulated water bottle if you've brought one along. The sky will be darker, the stars shining brighter, and you’ll be warmer. This back-and-forth can go on as long as your eyes stay open and the rewards always seem to be worth pushing through the sleepiness. If you’re lucky enough to live in a region with natural hot springs, visiting these in the winter can be a luxury almost impossible to describe. Sitting in jacuzzi-warm water, rich with minerals, and watching a frigid river run beneath snow-draped trees is a surefire way to put a smile on your face. The juxtaposition between the harsh and benevolent characteristics of nature are visibly, and physically, apparent. Hot springs that would be crowded in the shoulder-season months due to their proximity roads and parking areas become much less visited. An easy stroll in the summer suddenly becomes a 1/4 mile epic in winter, requiring snowshoes and proper clothing to be comfortable in frigid temperatures until you’re able to immerse yourself in the water. As expected, however, the reward feels much richer and well-deserved. For hikers who live in a region absent of the geothermal phenomenons that are required for hot springs but with sustained subfreezing temperatures, winter often presents the opportunity to see frozen waterfalls. Visiting a gushing waterfall in May and then returning in January to see it frozen from top to bottom provides a sublime comparison. In regions with dense ridgetop deciduous forests, such as many Eastern forests, the views in winter are much grander than in summer. Trails that have the “green tunnel” effect suddenly become much more open and the shadows and shapes created by the bare tree limbs become a spectacle in and of themselves. Certain “life list” destinations are at their most hospitable and enjoyable in the winter months. Big Bend National Park, Everglades National Park and Dry Tortugas National Park come to mind in this regards. Backpacking on Cumberland Island National Seashore in December is a particular treat – the crowds are low, the weather is mild, and the citrus trees are ripe. There’s something beautiful about getting to a campsite, setting down the pack, and picking an orange or grapefruit to enjoy with your oatmeal the next morning. Final Thoughts While the coming of spring is an occasion for celebration, especially for those of us who reside in the northerly latitudes, winter has its merits. It offers a chance for skills to be honed, inimitable adventures to be had – such as moonlit cross-country skiing, familiar places to be experienced in a different atmosphere. If you weren’t able to appreciate the opportunities for solitude this past season, you’ll have a summer full of hiking to look forward to and plenty of time to plan for when the snow flies again. For a detailed article on the "how to" of experiencing the outdoors in winter with many tips along the way, check out this Issue 26 article courtesy of @PaulMags.

Dishes that are a bit lighter tasting can be desirable at many times of the year and especially in warmer weather. The palette does not crave cream, cheese, and the other heavy foods associated with winter. Instead, a touch of citrus might be wanted. A bit of mint on the tongue. And perhaps something a bit tart and a little sweet to balance the flavors out? This recipe is a unique (and fresh!) take on couscous, and the brightness of the meal goes well with spring and summer seasons. This simple, but tasty and filling, couscous meal just may be the perfect dish for those July backpacking trips near an alpine lake. Where blowing snow is a distant memory but a field of wildflowers is very much present. A little bit of summer in every bite. This dish will serve one hungry hiker or two less-than-ravenous trekkers. Ingredients 1 cup couscous 2 tablespoons olive oil or equivalent packable olive oil packets ½ cup pine nuts or walnuts ½ cup dried cranberries 1 tablespoon dried mint (out for an easy overnighter? Substitute ¼ cup chopped fresh mint) 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons lemon pepper; 3 teaspoons if you prefer a little more bite Carnivore? One seven ounce pouch of chicken. Veggie delight? One 15 ounce can chickpeas (garbanzo beans) for a short trip OR 3 tablespoons instant hummus mix for a longer trip. Optional: dash or two of red pepper flakes for a little zest. Olive oil can be carried in a variety of containers or via packets. At Home Add couscous to resealable bag Pour olive oil into leak proof bottle. I use a 12 oz. sports drink bottle myself or use olive oil packets. Add nuts, cranberries, mint, salt, lemon pepper, and optional red pepper flakes to resealable bag. Mix. Add chicken pouch to food bag when packing. If using canned beans, add to a resealable bag, then double bag & tape closed for the most security. If using hummus mix, place in resealable plastic bag. Ingredients, including repackaged olive oil. In Camp Add two cups water to cook pot, bring to low boil. Add olive oil and stir. Add bag contents with nuts, cranberries, spice, & herbs to pot. Simmer until cranberries are plump (5-10 minutes). Add chicken, beans, or hummus mix. Dried hummus will need more water and/or olive oil. Mix once added. Simmer over very low heat for 3-5 minutes while mixing on occasion. Eat a delectable meal! You can find more food-related and recipe articles here on the TrailGroove Blog. Editor's Note: This article by contributor Paul Magnanti originally appeared in Issue 23 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

Mushrooms are the flowers of fall, and photographing them may look easy but it’s not. Here are a few helpful tips to use when photographing them. First, you’ll want to correctly identify the mushrooms you shoot, so pick up a good mushroom book to help with identification. My favorite book on fungi is Mushrooms Demystified by David Arora. I also recommend his mushroom field-pocket guide. When I photograph mushrooms, I often begin with a document photograph. This helps me identify the mushroom later and creates a stock photography photo I can use. If you’re having trouble with identification, spore prints and other identification factors listed in the book can help. "Mushroom Forest" Photographing Mushrooms When photographing mushrooms, I often look for a good background first and then I look for an interesting mushroom. As with flora photography, I usually zoom into a small area of the mushroom that inspires me the most – such as the cap or the gills underneath. Photographing from above can capture some nice mushroom patterns. When photographing mushrooms, changing your point of view can alter a subject drastically as well. Shooting from above is nice, but photographing a mushroom at ground level or even from below is much better, so lie on your belly and get down and dirty. Mushrooms photograph best on overcast days, but even then you may still notice the mushroom cap giving off some reflective glare so a polarizer will come in handy. All images in this article © David M. Cobb Photography. Editor's Note: This photo tip by contributor David Cobb originally appeared in Issue 18 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here. See more of David’s photography at dmcobbphoto.com.

The arrival of spring brings a lot of things for the outdoor enthusiast to get excited about, including longer days, warm temperatures, and melting snow for those of us in the north. However one additional perk that spring brings is the annual REI Member Reward (previously known as the REI Dividend) release. For REI members, this is the time of the year when REI Co-op members receive their rewards from REI purchases you made during the 2024 season. Gear-up with the help of REI Member Rewards When are Rewards Applied? I've been an REI Co-op member for about 25 years – I originally signed up to get an REI Dividend when purchasing a higher-priced jacket, where the dividend back ended up being more than the price of the REI Membership itself (at the time). Each year it seems the rewards are applied a bit earlier in the season. While March is the official timeline here, frequently and if you check, you might just find your member rewards sitting in your account early in the month or even in late February these days. REI Co-op also offers an annual member sale in March, and by using your reward combined with discounts during the sale, you can often pick up some nice gear at a nice discount and perhaps with no money out of pocket. While it's not quite January (which is when I usually start getting ancy for the season ahead and start contemplating what I'll use my REI Reward towards), the March or so release on the membership reward is usually good timing for hiking season and REI Membership sales. How to Check Your REI Reward / Dividend Balance Your rewards are first applied to your online REI account. However, you can also easily check your REI Membership balance here (from time to time at the previous link, you may be able to check your balance without logging in). Additional notices will arrive later by snail mail provided that you made at least $10 in purchases the previous year, unless it was your first year as a member. Note that your reward does expire. You typically have almost 2 years to use your balance. For example, for rewards that will be applied in spring of 2025, you'll have until January 3rd, 2027 to use your balance. Use it or lose it! REI Rewards arrive just in time for spring. How Much is the REI Reward? REI members typically receive 10% back on eligible purchases. This is on full-priced REI purchases only, REI Outlet and sale items don't apply here and you won't get a reward back on sales tax, either. Additionally, some services like classes, gear rentals, REI gift card purchases, garage sales, or an REI Adventure Trip for example, are not eligible or are only eligible at a reduced amount. More details on all the fine print here. Throughout the calendar year, you'll accrue these rewards; the total will then be applied to your account the following year. For example, this year in 2025 all the rewards you accumulated during the 2024 calendar year will be applied to your account. Thus, is it really a 2024 or a 2025 member reward? It's a bit open to interpretation. Note that while you won't earn rewards if you're buying gift cards, you do earn rewards back when you shop using a gift card towards an REI purchase. While your purchases on clearance items, used gear, or REI Adventure Travel won't accrue rewards, once you're signed up for a membership you'll start to earn rewards from your very first purchase on new gear purchased at full price at REI. Other Ways to Earn Towards your REI Co-op Member Reward If you're interested and choose to sign up for the REI Co-op Mastercard in combination with your REI Membership, you can also find ways to add a boost to your total REI Rewards when Co-op member reward season rolls around. If you are looking for another credit card, the REI Co-op Mastercard gives Co-op members additional rewards on purchases at REI, on additional services at REI, and even on purchases outside REI. These rewards are all combined with your normal purchases at REI throughout the year and added to your total REI Rewards. While we are not looking to broaden our horizons here at TrailGroove into the financial advice sector, the REI Co-op Mastercard does offer the potential to raise up your total REI Rewards, even on groceries. When you purchase gear at REI, you can earn rewards towards next year's purchases with a one-time membership fee. How to Use Your Rewards Rewards are applied to your account and can be used at REI.com and in the REI app at checkout, just make sure you check the box to redeem your balance before finalizing your purchase. At an REI store, you can ask an associate to apply your balance at the register. In the days of old, you could also request your balance as a check later in the season, but REI Co-op no longer offers this option. I always used my balance before they became paper check-eligible, anyway. Even if you're all set on gear, I find replacing old socks and stocking up on some freeze-dried meals for the backpacking season ahead is always a slam-dunk no-brainer type of purchase. While you won't be earning a Co-op Member Reward for REI Outlet purchases, you can certainly use already-earned REI Rewards towards gear when you shop REI Outlet discounted gear. REI Rewards are applied in March and are (for the most part) based on the total amount you spent on full-priced items during the previous calendar year. How to Become an REI Member While this has gone up a bit in recent years, an REI Co-op Membership is just a one-time $30 charge for life. Once signed up you'll be eligible for member rewards and member sales. As long as you plan on shopping at REI more than once it's likely worth the sign up cost – you can become a member here. After your one-time membership fee you'll be assigned a unique member number associated with your lifetime membership. The longer you've had your REI Co-op Membership the lower your member number will be. Whether you shop online or in REI stores, make sure you're purchases on outdoor gear are associated with your REI Membership number either by logging in at checkout or by relaying your REI Membership number to an associate at an REI store. Overall REI offers a great rewards program and it's hard for me to imagine being an outdoor enthusiast without being a member. Members may also receive early access to new gear, special pricing, & more deals from time to time. In Conclusion Provided that you've accrued a balance in your account, REI Reward season typically arrives at just the right time to get ready with new gear for the spring and summer hiking season ahead. Whether it's a new sleeping bag or just a new pair of socks, having a little credit sitting in your REI Membership account combined with the sales that REI offers during this season, can go a long way towards getting your outdoor gear set and your spring hiking off to a great start. Head over to REI.com to learn more about their membership benefits and you can check your balance here.

Backpacking can be a challenging endeavor in itself – at times in our effort to get back to basics and simplify life by hitting the trail we find ourselves poring over gear checklists, rushing to make the trailhead at a decent hour, or planning trips that just push the mileage a bit too far. With all this in mind, adding another component to the equation might not be the best idea. But once you find your rhythm, adding man’s best friend can be a great addition to any trip – and there aren’t many places where they could be a better friend than on the trail. Dogs make us happy. Similar to the way that a campfire can turn a cold and wet hiker into a contented backcountry soul, dogs can make tough situations bearable and provide something special in regards to companionship. Somehow, they can offer this companionship without hindering that feeling of being alone in the wild. This can truly be the best of both worlds. You’ll get away from it all but still have someone to share it with all the same. However, a dog will depend on you more than ever in this situation and there are a few things to keep in mind. Age One of the first things to consider is the age of the dog. If the dog is too young and still growing, you may want to hold off on strenuous activities like backpacking for a while, with the exact age varying from dog to dog and breed to breed. Too old…And well, your companion might just wish they could spend the weekend in the dog bed at home instead of out on some trail with their crazy owner. How old is too old depends on many factors, including the life history of your pet, their overall health, and breed. All dogs are different...for both cases, it would be best to consult a veterinarian first and I like to always discuss where I'll be headed with my vet as well, to see if any additional vaccinations would be good to consider. Training Many people think that dogs, just because they are dogs, can immediately go from months of inactivity to 20 mile days in a heartbeat. This usually results in a hobbling dog barely able to make it off the trail and back to the car. Just like people, dogs need to train for strenuous exercise and backpacking is no exception. At the very least, I like to exercise several times a week with my dog, if not every day. Long walks and / or a running routine are perfect for this. This will rack up the miles and acclimate a dog’s feet to the abrasion and abuse they’ll encounter on the trail. To avoid exhaustion and injury, I follow the same strategy I use for running, and build up the mileage slowly week to week. As a general rule I avoid increasing the mileage by more than 10% each week. Thus, if I'm currently out with my dog walking and running a combined 20 miles per week, 22 would be maximum I'd plan to tackle the next week, and so on. 10% is a good max – lower is even better. Then I keep building until the weekly mileage is at least as much as I plan to travel on a weekend hike, and include at least one long day each week that’s close to or greater than the maximum daily mileage I'm planning for a trip. As an example, if a 20 mile weekend hike is planned @ 10 miles each day, I'd build my dog’s weekly mileage up to at least 20 mile + weeks with a 9-10 mile minimum long day. I like to rest the dog for at least 2 full days prior, and 2 full days after backpacking trips. This should hopefully allow for a fresh start and ample recovery time. If you haven’t noticed, the basic goal with all of this is to simply make the trip part of the training. A weekend trip would essentially be like back to back long days and fit into the overall training plan. Going for trips with longer mileage or more days? I'd build up the mileage in training even more beforehand. I avoid concrete as much as possible while training, it’s rough on pads, joints, and claws. A short trail or nature area close to home is ideal. Sound like a lot of training? Well it is, but even if you aren’t training for a particular trip it will be better for the dog, exercise is good! Remember that dogs can’t talk to tell you they’ve worked too hard, so if in doubt I scale back the mileage and rest. Water While training and on any backpacking trip, water is fuel, both for people and dogs. For anything other than the shortest training jaunt, I carry water, and I carry even more in hot weather. The best method I’ve found is to simply carry more of my own water – no special dog bottle, which only seems to complicate things in my experience. I like to offer the dog clean water at least once per hour, or more often if they are showing signs of thirst (excessive panting, a dry tongue, exhaustion). For our hiking dog I've found that around a 2-3 cup plastic food storage container works great as a water bowl. Leave the lid at home and you’ll never notice the approximate ½ oz. weight of the bowl (I usually just look in the kitchen to find something that will work). That said dedicated outdoor dog bowls are also available if you prefer to go that route. Either way, keep this in a convenient spot – an outside pack pocket works best. You may want to increase the size of the bowl for larger breeds. Food I like to carry the same type of food that I feed at home when out on the trail, but carry more of it. Dog food bags should have printed guidelines for high activity dogs. This is a good place to start. I start by calculating the days that we'll be out and pack enough food to meet the guideline at a bare minimum. Leaning towards packing extra if in doubt. Most of the guidelines are listed in cups per day, I like to weigh this amount and then pack by the ounce. Use a scale to weigh the food prior to the trip, and when you return weigh any leftover food. Note these amounts and after a few trips you should be able to calculate how many ounces of food per day your dog requires. I like to pack food in sturdy double-zippered large Ziploc bags. The Gallon size works well – just avoid the slider type bags, they just can’t hold up to any trip longer than a day or two. A secondary hard plastic container works great for a food bowl. Mark the bowl you’ll use for food or use slightly different food grade bowls. I only use this bowl for food and the other for water. This way you can hang the food bowl at night along with your own food and still have a clean water bowl to keep in your shelter should Fido become thirsty. Tailoring the feeding schedule to your own pet’s personality and needs would be best; however I find that giving the dog as much as they’ll eat at night and prior to departing camp in the morning works well. If they are hesitant to eat or have lost their appetite, I've at times resorted to mixing in some of my own (dog safe) leftovers in with their food. Pack a few of your dog’s favorite treats for each day and use these to bridge the gap between breakfast and dinner and for a lunch of sorts. Store these in another Ziploc in a handy location for quick feeding on the go – like you would an energy bar for yourself. Energy rich foods will allow you carry less weight, due to the fact that they pack so much more power per ounce. I like to pick high quality food and treats / snacks and stick with reputable brands without “no name” ingredients and a higher protein content with a lack of artificial ingredients. At night, you’ll want to hang this food religiously on your trip – many backcountry critters find dog food especially tasty. Dog Gear for Backpacking The first thing that people usually look for is a backpack so that their dog can carry their own food. I've tested several brands extensively, but to really know you'll have test with your dog. It’s just so hard to really know if your dog is truly comfortable with a pack, and if they’re carrying too much weight. Many dogs will just continue to push even if they’re in pain, not a good situation. Thus, watch your dog closely – some dogs are best without a pack ever, while others can't wait to get it on. In the latter case, I like to only lightly load the dog's pack and focus more on giving them some bulky but lightweight items not necessarily to lighten my load, but to give me just a bit more space in my pack. In the end don't be afraid to muscle-up and carry everything your dog will need in your own pack – it’s simply easier to tell if you’re carrying too much weight instead of guessing how your dog feels. If you do decide to go the backpack route for your dog, not all dog packs are created equal. Select a lightweight option and make sure to find the perfect size. The Ruffwear Approach dog pack has served my dogs well, and some of this comes down to the personality of the dog. Fine-tune the fit and acclimate your dog at home prior to a trip. Never overload your dog – 10% of their body weight is more than enough in my experience. In cold or wet weather, we’ve found a weather-resistant dog coat to be a good asset. Fit is just as important here, you want something that will fit close to the dog’s body without inhibiting movement or compressing against their fur too much, this might actually limit warmth by inhibiting their own natural insulation system. I use this in the tent at night when things cool down as well as on the trail during the day if the weather conditions necessitate it. For this the Ruffwear Cloud Chaser dog jacket has been a venerable favorite and is hard to beat. Check out our full review at the previous link for more. Test the fit while training at home, halfway into a long backpacking trip isn’t the place to find out that the coat you picked is a chafe factory for your companion. The oils that dogs naturally produce make their coats fairly water resistant, so avoid washing your dog right before a trip which will strip these oils away. Booties can be great for cold conditions where snow and ice will be encountered. Many booties are overbuilt with thick rubber soles and heavy fabric uppers. I’ve found that this type of boot only makes things worse. With such a heavy-duty construction, your dog won’t be able to move their feet normally and won’t be able to independently move each toe for traction and a normal gait. Instead, look for a simple bootie made of nylon fabric, such as those used by professional dog sledding teams. This will provide protection for the dog’s feet, but still allow them to move and walk naturally. They do wear out after 100-200 miles, but are cheap enough that you can buy many replacements for less than you’d pay for a single pair of the heavy, overbuilt dog boots. I suggest a pair with a stretchy Velcro closure and have had great success with dogbooties.com. Finally, you’ll need sleeping gear to keep your dog warm at night. I find that a closed cell foam pad works great, just make sure you’re selecting one that’s warm enough. Generally speaking, you’ll want to evaluate the manufacturer’s stated r-value and at least match what you’re using for you own pad. Catch your dog lounging around and measure their full extended length, then cut the foam pad down to size for weight savings. Leave the pad long enough so that your dog will have full coverage and won’t find their paws hanging over the edges. A pad like the Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol works great for temperatures down to around freezing. I add more layers for more warmth if it will get colder. You can do this by either doubling the same foam pad or adding thinner layers of foam padding. Take a dedicated blanket if you prefer, but if the weather is warm enough I sometimes assign double duty to whatever insulation piece we’re carrying for that trip, such as a down jacket or synthetic fleece. Throw this on top and tuck the jacket in around the edges…in combination with the foam pad this can keep things toasty on nights where the lows aren't too low. To add more warmth and block wind I've added my (totally dry) rain jacket on the outside of all this as well. For anything less than warm weather, take a warmer pad or double up while adding more and more insulation on top and consider a dedicated dog sleeping bag. Make sure to take a shelter or tent big enough for you and your dog. In wet conditions, a quick towel dry with an absorbent pack towel before entering the tent seems to take care of any wet-dog-ruining-your-night worries. Basically, it all comes down to taking whatever you need to keep your dog comfortable during the hiking day and during the night. Dogs are tough, but keep in mind they're used to home just like we are. Even if you might not need it, taking along these comfort items on every trip will be worth it for when you do. There are additional items you may want to take a long as well (for example I've taken along LED collar lights on some trips), coming down to a personal preference and depending on the personality of the dog. You can check out a wide selection of backpacking and hiking oriented dog gear here at REI Co-op. Leashes and Regulations One item not mentioned above is a leash – perhaps the most important item of gear you’ll need. Remember, even if your dog is the kindest dog in the world, some people fear all dogs regardless of their demeanor. Others may find your beloved pet nothing more than a strong annoyance. Wildlife is another matter; the last thing you want is your dog running off after a deer in the distance, or in some cases bringing the wildlife back to you. Remember that some areas will require your pet to be leashed at all times. Other areas, especially your National Parks, will not allow dogs on backcountry trails whatsoever – check the regulations of any area you plan to visit well beforehand. Final Thoughts All of this may seem like a lot of work – and it is. But it’s well worth the while. Companionship is something that you simply can’t put a price on. Dogs love the outdoors. Dogs love exercise. People love exercising in the outdoors with their dog. Owning a dog is already a time intensive choice to make, but they’ll be relying on you even more out on the trail. These guidelines should set you on the right track, but should be adapted to your own situation. When eased into the sport and with the necessary amount of care and preparation, tackling the trail with your canine companion will compliment your backcountry experience and enrich their daily life. Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 1 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

Bryce Canyon National Park in southern Utah is a popular park and for good reason – its stunning rock spire formations (hoodoos) and the Bryce Amphitheater that can be seen from the canyon rim provide amazing views for those that visit. When it comes to hiking in Bryce Canyon, various trails provide a means for visitors to experience the canyon close up, while getting some good exercise and can offer a bit more solitude than the rim as well, if the timing is right. Bryce Canyon hoodoos Day Hikes at Bryce Canyon National Park The trails in Bryce canyon range in difficulty, and many are interconnected (referred to as "connector trails" allowing you to be a little creative in regards to planning your hike. The rim is at a high altitude, with temperatures often increasing as you descend down into the canyon. It can be an odd experience hiking down to start, but having to complete the second half of your hike headed uphill. Bryce Canyon Day Hiking Trails Queens Garden Trail 1.8 miles round trip. One of the easier hikes that you'll find in Bryce Canyon, but if you're looking for a longer hike one could connect to the Navajo Loop Trail once you find yourself below the rim. Navajo Loop Trail 1.3 miles round trip. The Navajo Loop Trail is a popular trail and option, beginning at Sunset Point and travelling to the Bryce Amphitheatre through something of a slot-type canyon. Rock slides happen here with some frequency. Hat Shop Trail 4 miles, round trip. Descending to the Under-the-Rim Trail allows one to take in a unique formation of hoodoos with interesting top-balanced rocks. Peek-A-Boo Loop 5.5 miles round trip. This is a steeper trail. Features views of the “Wall of Windows” and the Bryce Amphitheater. Pack animals / horses may be encountered on this trail. In the summer a restroom can be found along the trail. Fairyland Loop 8 miles round trip. Accessing Tower Bridge and China Wall, the Fairyland Loop offers your typical Bryce Canyon hoodoos, and a bit more solitude with some amazing scenery (what trail in Bryce doesn't?). A stunning view from the Bryce Canyon Rim Backpacking at Bryce Canyon National Park The backcountry of Bryce has fewer hoodoos and can provide access to more treed terrain with meadows and cliff views. Two main options offer access that we'll cover here. Riggs Spring Loop 8.8-miles round trip. This is a hiking loop that starts and ends at the Rainbow & Yovimpa Point parking lot towards the far southern end of Bryce Canyon National Park. Under-the-Rim Trail A Longer option at about 23 miles that travels from Bryce Point to Rainbow Point. One could connect to the Under-the-Rim Trail via the Swamp Canyon, Whiteman Bench and Agua Canyon Trailheads and their shorter connector trails, providing various alternative and / or shorter hiking options. Backpacking offers an opportunity to spend a night immersed in the scenery of Bryce Canyon. Information You'll need a permit for overnight stays, which can be purchased at the visitor center. Camping is only permitted in designated areas. See the official Bryce Canyon NPS website for more details and you can find hiking related information here. For a map, see the Trails Illustrated map covering the area. For a guidebook, check out Best Easy Day Hikes Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks and for getting to and from the trailhead and exploring other destinations in the state, the Utah Delorme Atlas & Gazetteer can be helpful.

The Great American Desert. The flyover territory. Flat. Boring. Uninspiring. All names or descriptions given to an area of North America that is five-hundred miles wide and two-thousand miles long. This area is The Great Plains. The Great Plains are arguably the most American of all landscapes. What people over the world often conjure up when the American West is thought about. The wide open spaces, the vast landscape and the sky above. Seemingly limitless. Extending forever. The Great Plains were home to the nomadic people that are romanticized in American culture. And what is more representative of the mythical Wild West than the solo cowboy riding his horse on a windswept plain? The Great Plains are home to the iconic bison, it is where horses originated before making their way to the Eurasian Steppes, (and flourished on The Great Plains again thousands of years later when brought over by the Spanish) and fossils of ancient creatures can be found. The Great Plains is where many pivotal events in American history took place. Names that echo generations later. Names that resonate in American history: Lewis and Clark, Crazy Horse, The Oregon Trail, The Battle of Wounded Knee, the Pony Express, Chimney Rock, and more. And it is not a place that is only about the geological history, more recent events in the American past or what The Great Plains represent in American culture. It is a beautiful place. A place where wildflowers bloom with intense color in the spring. A place where the canyons are lush with creeks flowing through them and where countless species of birds call them home. And it is a wild place. When the Front Range Urban Corridor of Colorado has over 4 million people within an hour or so of the Rockies, The Great Plains is a bastion for solitude and remoteness. Many areas of The Great Plains number not in the millions or the thousands, but often merely the hundreds. The Great Plains is a place often ignored by outdoor enthusiasts. But it is a place that any person who loves the wild places should explore more. Where to Go The Great Plains is a vast region and extends into nearby Canada (and some people argue also into extreme northern Mexico just past the Rio Grande). The most remote portions tend to be in the western sub-region known as The High Plains. This area is just east of the Rockies Mountains and extends to western Nebraska and Kansas and south to the Texas Panhandle and New Mexico. The climate is semi-arid and can reach elevations up to 7800’. Some of the more scenic highlights are in this sub-region of The Great Plains. Deciding where to go in this large region can be overwhelming. But here are a few areas worth visiting and exploring. As always, a good atlas, and some research, will turn up some other ideas, too. Badlands National Park The term “badlands” itself refers to formations formed by erosion in typically clay soils. Badlands National Park is perhaps the premier area to see these extensive formations. Bison roam, rock formations beckon, and a vast area to explore is waiting. Theodore Roosevelt National Park If there is an abiding mythology about the American West that still persists to this day, it is that people go west to reinvent themselves. Theodore Roosevelt went west to live a physical lifestyle to cure his childhood maladies. He then went back East to be the man we know from history. Theodore Roosevelt National Park is perhaps a way to taste a part of this vigorous lifestyle. With many miles of trails, and the Little Missouri River flowing through the park, this park does not seem like something associated with The Great Plains. The herds of wild horses, bison, and rock formations leave no doubt that someone is exploring a part of this spectacular ecosystem. Pine Ridge The Pine Ridge is an escarpment that extends over one-hundred miles throughout the Nebraska Panhandle in addition to parts of neighboring Wyoming and South Dakota. Up to twenty-miles wide at parts, the Pine Ridge and surrounding areas offers many opportunities for fossil exploration, experiencing the places where much western history took place, seeing geological wonders, backpacking, camping in lush canyons, and seeing a night sky as exquisite as anything, if not better, found in more popular and well-known wilderness areas. A good backcountry road atlas and topo maps are needed to find some of the hidden gems sprinkled throughout this area. Comanche National Grassland Located in the southeast corner of Colorado and below the Arkansas River, the Comanche National Grassland is an area that is off the beaten path in many ways. One of the most impressive collections of brontosaurus tracks can be found here, astronomical markings and rock art abound from previous inhabitants, old Spanish churches can be spotted on the public lands and some impressive springtime wildflowers can be seen. Picture & Carrizo Canyons, near the Oklahoma border can be visited, with Picture having an about 15 mile loop that can done. Perfect for a leisurely backpack in a memorable area. After the trip, nearby Bent’s Old Fort is worth stopping at a look at what life may have been on the old US-Mexican border in the 1840s. And need a bite to eat? Lucy’s Tacos in the nearby town of La Junta shows how the Mexican heritage is still present in this area. Delicious food, at good prices, at a no-frills take-out location. Take some to go! Sand Creek Massacre National Historic Site A peaceful and quiet area that was the site of a pivotal event in American history, the Sand Creek Massacre National Historic Site is worth visiting. A reminder that events that took place on The Great Plains have had much impact on American history and culture despite this area being forgotten about today by the majority of the public. The place is solemn, simple, and conducive to enjoying the wide open spaces and contemplating what transpired on this location. James Michener’s book Centennial has a fictionalized account of this tragedy that very much mirrors what happened in actuality. When to Go In many ways, The Great Plains region is similar to the Colorado Plateau west of the Rocky Mountains. Besides both being remote and often dry, the ideal time to explore both of these areas is often in the spring or fall. The Great Plains, especially the High Plains sub-region that is remote, can have some harsh weather. The Great Plains are perhaps ideal to visit in the spring when the weather is more temperate, the wildflowers may be blooming and the water is more likely to flow. Fall is cool, the air is crisp, and the ground cover is turning colors. Another great time to be there. Winter can be beautiful, but bitterly cold and very windy. Summer is extremely hot and dry. A Dream That Links it All As befitting this unique North American landscape, a long distance hiking trail is being planned out to link all these unique areas. When complete, a proposed Great Plains Trail will extend from Canada’s Grasslands National Park to Guadalupe Peak in Texas. The Great Plains have been ignored in outdoor circles. Perhaps the trail will help highlight, and protect some of these unique areas. See The Great Plains Trail Alliance website for more information. Challenges Faced by The Great Plains The Great Plains are an energy rich area with low population along with low use and protection versus other public lands. Currently, much of the area is open to energy exploration and extraction. Preserving public lands while making wise use of them is always an ongoing debate. And this debate is perhaps most evident in The Great Plains. Want to Know More? The Great Plains is an area that is not well-known to most. While personally exploring the area is wonderful, sometimes getting more background about an area of interest is helpful, instructive, and interesting. Some suggested resources to learn more about this area include: Great Plains: America’s Lingering Wild is a two-part PBS documentary available. Gorgeous cinematography and an excellent look at the issues faced in this area. Great Plains by Ian Frazier is a classic collection of vignettes that details life on The Great Plains in the late twentieth century. If the PBS Great Plains documentary looks at the wild places left on The Great Plains, Frazier’s book captures the spirit of the people that live on them. Centennial by James Michener is perhaps the most well-known book of historical fiction. Taking place in the High Plains of Colorado, it is an excellent way to read about the natural history and geology of the plains, the native history of the area, the oncoming waves of Europeans, and later Americans, who explored and settled the area and such events as the Dust Bowl. Though the specific history is fictionalized, the overall history as portrayed is rooted in fact. Centennial also captures the isolation and beauty of the area as well. Though written in the 1970s, a theme and question posed in the book applies to The Great Plains today: How to use resources in a sustainable manner, in a way that will not destroy the area? And when it comes to getting to and from these destinations and exploring The Great Plains, the respective state Delorme Atlas & Gazetteer can be quite useful. Finally... The Great Plains are a unique and beautiful area that has a rich history. It is an area that enriches the experience of anyone who explores them. If someone loves the wild places, The Great Plains must be visited. Editor's Note: This article by contributor Paul Magnanti originally appeared in Issue 25 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

It’s Wednesday, the weekend weather forecast looks good, and the boss just said you can have Friday off. Now all you need to do is pick your trail, grab your gear, and you’re in for the perfect long backcountry weekend. The only thing that’s standing between you and the trail is food. You know that good food can make or break a trip, and you’re determined to make this a good one. Ah, the food dilemma. You could drive to the nearest outfitter and stock up on three days of freeze-dried meals, but perhaps you did that for the last trip and you’re ready for a change; plus you weren’t planning to spend upwards of $100 on just food. You could dash over to the nearest supermarket and get a variety of pasta and rice meals in a box, but they take a long time to cook and are so salty you’d need to pack in an extra fuel bottle and an extra water bottle. Fresh food in the backcountry is awesome, but it weighs a ton and you’d have to worry about spoilage. You could break out the dehydrator and your backcountry cookbook to make some awesome meals, but it’s the last minute and you want to get out of town on Friday without a hassle, so that idea might have to wait until next time. So what’s the strategy? By combining commonly found supermarket ingredients including bulk foods and spices, it’s easy to put together a three day menu of food with minimal prep time that will have you craving each meal as hiker hunger kicks in. A 3 Day Backpacking Meal Plan The key is to focus on breakfast and dinner, the two most important meals of the day. Using simple and delicious recipes to create these meals at home, and then supplementing with ready-made snack-worthy foods to fill out your menu will set you up for the perfect adventure weekend. By following the three day menu below, one well organized shopping trip and only about 30 minutes of prep time in your home kitchen will have you ready to hit the trail. Better yet, these meals require no real cooking; in camp you’ll only need to boil water, minimizing fuel and making clean-up super easy. Oatmeal is the breakfast of choice for hungry hikers. Launch your mornings with a new twist on an old trail favorite by combining quick oats with a variety of tasty ingredients. Lightweight and delicious, these DIY single serving packets beat anything on the market. Start on day one with a classic cinnamon-walnut-apple oatmeal using dried apples and walnuts from the bulk food bins. For day two, treat yourself to a delicious coconut banana crunch oatmeal that has just the right amount of sweetness. For the last push on day three give yourself a protein punch with an oatmeal combo loaded with nuts, seeds, and cacao nibs (aka the superfood of the ancient Mayans). Embrace the crisp mornings with a steaming mug of coffee paired with a hot bowl of oatmeal and you’ll be ready to tackle each day’s adventure. Wrap up each day with a hearty dinner including Double Cheese Buffalo Mac and Cheese made with buffalo jerky, Mexican Rice with Sausage, and a Mediterranean Tabbouleh Bowl. Dinners are packaged in two-serving portions in your home kitchen using readily available supermarket ingredients. They require only minutes to cook in camp satisfying hungry hikers with minimal effort. Just knowing these delicious dinners are on the menu will give you something to look forward to each day. Lunches are combinations of ready to eat foods packaged in individual portions. Buy a 2-ounce hunk of hard cheese for the first day and serve it on crostini crackers with dried mangos for a sweet and salty combo. Parmesan, Parmigiano, or Pecorino cheeses stay fresh, pack easy and are great cheese choices. For lunch on day two fill a snack size zip top bag with Nutella and pack along fruit leather and sesame stick crackers to make a wrap with Nutella and sesame sticks for a tasty, crunchy lunch treat. For day three fill a snack size zip top bag with squeezable peanut butter and separately pack crostini crackers and Medjool dates. Squeeze peanut butter on the crackers and finish the meal with naturally sweet dates. The menu includes snack items with a light weight energy boost and satisfy every hiker’s craving for sweet and salty. These include jerky, commercially prepared protein bars and selections from the bulk bins such as dried fruit and nut combinations and ready-made trail mixes. Just be sure to pick a trail mix with lots of nuts and not too many low energy crackers and pretzels. Snack-size zip top bags are the perfect size for individual portions. To assemble your food supply at home, start with breakfast. Stand up sandwich size zip top bags with the tops folded over to keep them open. Measure ½ cup oatmeal and 2 TBSP dry milk powder into each then add custom ingredients following the recipes below to make single serving packets. Label each bag with a permanent marker. Next, tackle dinners by following the recipes below. Each recipe serves two and will fit in a sandwich size zip top bag. Ingredients required to be packaged separately can be placed in smaller zip top bags and then slipped inside the sandwich size bag with the primary dinner ingredients, keeping each meal in one easy-to-find package. There is nothing worse than hunting through your entire food supply in camp to find an essential ingredient when you’re hungry and tired. A little effort in your home kitchen will have you organized for quick and easy meals in camp. Dinner Recipes Double Cheese Buffalo Mac & Cheese (Two Servings) 1 package Ramen noodles (you don't need the spice packet) ¼ cup dry parmesan cheese (the kind that comes in a can) 2 TBSP Nido whole milk powder 1 TBSP cornstarch 1 tsp chili powder 2 TBSP butter, packaged separately 1 ½ ounces buffalo or beef jerky or minced, packaged separately 2 ounces shredded cheddar cheese, packaged separately Mac and cheese is a classic backpacking meal, and this recipe takes it to the next level. Home Prep Combine parmesan cheese, milk powder, cornstarch and chili powder together. Package butter, jerky and cheddar cheese separately. On the Trail Combine 1 cup water, parmesan cheese, cornstarch, chili powder and butter in cooking pot. Boil one minute until thickened. Stir in ramen noodles breaking apart with a spoon. Cover and let sit for five minutes. Divide between two bowls and sprinkle with cheddar cheese. Mediterranean Tabbouleh Bowl (Two Servings) 1/2 cup brown lentils 3/4 cup bulgur 1 TBSP butter ¼ cup dried parsley 1 tsp garlic pepper ½ cup Kalamata olives in olive oil ¼ cup pine nuts Hearty and filling, the Mediterranean Tabbouleh Bowl dinner meal is a good choice after a long day. Home Prep Combine lentils, parsley, pepper and salt. Package all other ingredients separately. On the Trail Boil lentils in water for seven minutes. Put the lid on the pot and let sit for five minutes. Lentils should be firm but fully cooked and may require longer cooking at high altitudes. Add bulgur and butter, and adjust water so is just barely above the food. Boil one minute then remove from heat and let sit ten minutes. Chop olives and stir into Tabbouleh. Divide between two bowls and top with pine nuts. Mexican Rice with Sausage (Two Servings) 1½ cup instant rice ½ cup minced shelf stable summer sausage or dry salami (2 ounces) 2 tsp tomato bullion 2 TBSP minced dried onion 2 TBSP dried parsley 2 TBSP taco seasoning 10 tortilla chips 2 green onions (optional) Home Prep Combine rice, tomato bullion, dried onion, parsley and taco seasoning into a sandwich size zip top bag. Place tortilla chips in a separate zip top bag and crush with a rolling pin or by pressing on them with a wooden cutting board. Package sausage and optional green onions separately. On the Trail Add rice mixture to cooking pot along with 1 ½ cups water. Boil one minute and then cover and let sit for five minutes. Stir in sausage and divide between two bowls. Top with tortilla chips and chopped green onions. Note: tomato bullion, dried parsley and minced dried onions are commonly found in supermarket spice sections. Single Serving Backpacking Oatmeal Recipes Apple-Cinnamon-Walnut Oatmeal (Single Serving) ½ cup quick oatmeal (one minute type) 2 TBSP whole milk powder (Nido) 1 TBSP brown sugar 2 TBSP chopped walnuts 1 tsp cinnamon ¼ cup dried apple slices, cut into small chunks with kitchen shears Oatmeal on the trail is a backpacker's go-to breakfast. Home Prep Combine all ingredients into zip top bag. On the Trail Stir in one cup boiling water into oatmeal mix and seep until thickened. Coconut Banana Crunch Oatmeal (Single Serving) 15 banana chips ½ cup quick oatmeal (one minute type) 2 TBSP whole milk powder (Nido) 1 TBSP brown sugar 2 TBSP shredded coconut Home Prep Place banana chips into a zip top bag and crush with a rolling pin or by pressing with a wooden cutting board; add coconut. In a separate zip top bag, combine remaining ingredients. On the Trail Stir one cup boiling water into oatmeal mix and seep until thickened; top with coconut and banana chip mixture. Peak Bagger Oatmeal: Protein Punch (Single Serving) ½ cup quick oatmeal (one minute type) 2 TBSP whole milk powder (Nido) 2 TBSP brown sugar 1 tsp cinnamon ¼ cup mixed chopped nuts and seeds (pumpkin seeds, pecans, raw sunflower seeds, etc) 1 TBSP golden flax meal 2 heaping TBSP craisins or raisins 1 TBSP cacao nibs Home Prep Package cacao nibs separately; combine all other ingredients into a zip top bag. On the Trail Stir one cup boiling water into oatmeal mix and seep until thickened; sprinkle with cacao nibs. Getting Ready for Your Trip Assemble lunches and snacks into individual portions, labeling each bag with a permanent marker. Organize each day’s food supply into gallon size zip top bags following the menu, mark each bag noting cooking instructions, and you’re ready to go. It takes just one shopping trip and thirty minutes in your kitchen to assemble this three day menu of delicious nutritious food for the perfect backcountry weekend! Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 35 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content and find more recipes here on the TrailGroove Blog.

Double down to beat the winter chill with a steaming bowl of hot chili. The beauty of this recipe is the ability to tailor it to suit a variety of diets and taste preferences. It’s naturally gluten free. Choose a non-meat protein option for a vegan or vegetarian variation. Tone down the spice by choosing poblano peppers or mild canned green chiles and omitting the jalapenos. Pour on the heat by using Anaheim peppers, extra jalapenos and a full two tablespoons of chili powder. Makes two hearty servings. Ingredients Chili Base 1 onion finely chopped 4 cloves minced garlic 1 14-oz can crushed tomatoes 2 cups water 1-2 TBSP chili powder to taste 1 tsp salt 1 tsp pepper Beans (Choose One) 1 can pinto beans, drained 1 can light or dark kidney beans, drained 1 can black beans, drained Chili Peppers (Choose One) 1 large Anaheim pepper chopped 1 large Poblano pepper chopped 1 4-oz can diced mild green chiles Equivalent (to above) dehydrated jalapeno peppers Protein (Choose One) ½ pound extra-lean ground beef, cooked and rinsed ½ cup textured vegetable protein (TVP) ½ cup pecans finely chopped Optional Add-Ins 1-2 chopped jalapenos ¼ pound chopped mushrooms Preparation Sauté onion and garlic in a small amount of oil until soft. Add tomatoes, water and spices and bring to a boil. Add beans, chili peppers, protein, and optional add-ins. Simmer 30 minutes or until peppers are well cooked, adding more water as needed. The secret to really great chili is to simmer for a minimum of 30 minutes to let the flavors fully develop. This chili freezes well and can be packed in frozen for shorter trips, especially convenient for winter overnights. For longer trips dehydrate at home for 6-10 hours at 160 degrees. In camp, add water to the dehydrated chili in a cooking pot so the water level it is about two inches over the chili. Bring to a quick boil and then let sit for 20 minutes until fully rehydrated. Protect the chili from cooling off during rehydration by insulating the pan if possible. My favorite version is the full-on maximum spice vegan option made with Anaheims, jalapenos, pecans, and mushrooms. I prefer the more traditional pinto beans or dark red kidney beans to black beans. This chili was true comfort food during my recent hike in the Sierra Mountains where temperatures dropped into the teens most nights. I made a batch of cornbread that I spread on dehydrator trays and packed separately for a cornbread crumble topping. Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 44 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

Every backpacker should have a slightly miserable trek just once in their life. Nothing extreme – just one with a bit of good-old fashioned discomfort. Maybe a rock under a sleeping bag, or a slightly damp boot during a section of a hike – it’s during those moments of less than easy explorations that the true value of the little amenities becomes evident, and much more appreciated. The small bits taken for granted on daily basis are sincerely cherished on the trail. That being said, there is no reason that trekking should equate to trudging. Just as a few discomforts can change perspective; it rings equally true of comforts on the trail. A few extra lightweight luxuries can make an incredible and positive difference in your backpacking experience! While not essential, these optional extras are easy ways to pack a bit of added comfort into the backcountry. Camp Shoes Hiking boots and trail runners are great for their purpose, but sometimes not the best bet for comfort at the end of the day. Any hiker who has experienced the blissful feeling of removing a well-used boot knows the almost unintentional groan of satisfaction that accompanies the action. While it’s perfectly reasonable and effective to rely solely on the shoes you hike in, bringing a light weight set of slippers or sandals to wear around camp provides freedom for your feet. Crocs are a light, durable option, but any kind of easy to slip in to model works – even foam sandals from the drug store work great. Zpacks offers an ultralight camp shoe option, and the foam Croc option has been a traditional standard. Strapped on to the outside of a pack, they are a light and easy addition. They’re particularly appreciated if your hiking footwear gets wet during a hike. A High Temperature Water Bottle Everyone has their favorite bottle, and the market abounds with options. While the main purpose may be to hold water for drinking, a durable, well-shaped bottle can be an added element to comfort as well. One of the best things about a bottle tolerant of high temperatures is its ability to hold boiling water. On colder nights, and with enough fuel to spare, fill one with boiled water, crawl into your sleeping bag, and snuggle up with your bottle buddy – no more fro-toes (frozen toes). Insulated by your bag, a dependable bottle will stay hot for hours. An added bonus – in the morning, you have pre-boiled and warmer ready to drink water! The Nalgene water bottle has long been a forerunner in the bottle race and even with admirable competition, and its size and functionality are proven components to its success. If the wide mouth seems bothersome, ones with smaller mouths are available, as well as attachable guards which funnel the water to a smaller opening. A Salty-Sweet Treat Of course there’s the classic GORP, but if you’ve ever coveted a 5-dollar candy bar, take this as your excuse to splurge on your lust. Go for that one that contains maple encrusted bacon, or caramelized pecans, or elven magic – whatever ingredients really make you salivate. On a recent trek, a hiker brought a salted toffee dark chocolate bar and for nearly two hours – and then sporadically throughout the rest of the trip – we found ways to discuss its epicness. Whether it comes in the form of chocolate or some other kind of special treat, the salty-sweet combination is oh so appreciated, and oh so much more delicious after a 6 hour hike. A Backcountry Café Coffee in the morning hours just makes everyone friendlier. Melitta or similar cone-shaped coffee makers are lightweight and simple to use. Pack one up with a pre-measured ration of ground coffee, and as many filters as needed. If space is an issue, there are traveling editions made of soft, flexible plastic for more compact traveling. If coffee’s not your thing, hot chocolate or tea bags are light and welcome warmers. Bring along some dried creamer and a bit of sugar, and you could practically label your camp an experimental micro-café. A Pen and Paper / A Notebook There are always practical uses to bringing paper on the trail, but in this particular pull for its inclusion, the entertainment value is the tout: Games, writing, and drawing to name a just few possibilities. Do you sketch for fun? No? Well, with a few hours lounging at camp, now’s the time. It’s fun! Same with poetry, writing or a poorly played hangman. You never know, though, maybe those jotted sentences or thoughts will be the first lines to your great literary masterpiece. Spices Ah spices. If hard pressed, spices might rank as the most appreciated extra when backpacking or camping. While the main priority of food is to provide the necessary energy and balance of nutrients, having it taste good is a highly valued bonus! Spices are the easiest way to pump up the flavor profiles – salt alone makes a huge difference. The possibilities here are endless: cinnamon, pepper, pesto powder, ground ginger, and so many more. Being so light, having variety doesn’t mean weighing you down. Just be sure to label that sugar clearly from that salt. Even in the surrounded by beautiful wilderness, that accidental switcheroo is no fun. Find more on packing backpacking spices here. A Riddle This one could be a freebie! Playing cards and similar packable outdoor games are great for the campsite, but while hiking, riddles can be fun forms of entertainment when the trek feels a bit more like a trudge. Though every hiker wishes they could say they hike in constant awe of nature, but there are always those more monotonous stretches, after other conversation has been exhausted, when you simply want to take your mind off your tired feet. Having a go-to riddle is an easy way to provide some distraction, and packing up a few for longer treks can continue to fuel the fun factor. And obviously, the only added weight is your brain mass. Don’t leave it behind. A Change of Clothes in the Car Returning to the parked car after a decently long backpacking trip, to realize you have a nice clean wardrobe change in the car will never become old. Nothing fancy, but a pair of sweatpants and a fresh smelling shirt are always well-received – particularly if the ride home from the trailhead is longer than 30 minutes. It’s a secret to be shared: the value of cleanliness to a weary traveler. Packing light can be paramount for longer treks, but even with all these additions, you won’t weigh down your pack. The delight experienced from these small comforts will feel far, far greater than the ½ pound or so you might cumulatively add. So go, frolic, explore and adventure – but no harm in bringing a bit of cozy to that backcountry. Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 8 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

If you're in the Midwest, the Porcupine Mountains might be your #1 go to backpacking destination. Scenic views abound and old growth forests dominate the interior. Head to the north side of the park and you'll find yourself greeted with the pristine and beautiful waters of the world’s largest freshwater lake. For an excellent day hike, park at the Lake of the Clouds overlook and explore the Escarpment Trail (amazing views). If a great view of the lake and a shoreline jaunt better suits your mood, head downhill from the Lake Superior Trailhead towards Buckshot Cabin. Hiking & Backpacking in the Porcupine Mountains To truly experience all the park has to offer, register for a backcountry camping permit at the Wilderness Visitor Center or at one of the self-registration kiosks located throughout the park. These can be found at Lake of the Clouds, Summit Peak, Presque Isle, or the Visitor Center (about $20 per night). Numerous backcountry campsites with fire rings and bear poles are located throughout the park. Venture off-trail and setup your own campsite if you wish, but fires are only allowed in designated fire rings. Fishing can be found in the various park lakes, streams, and in Lake Superior. Black bears frequent the area. Insect repellent is highly recommended during the warmer months. Make it to the park in just 6 hours from Minneapolis. Whether it's wooded trails or expansive lake views that you're after, the Porkies have a bit of it all. Information Situated in the northwestern corner of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, Porcupine Mountains State Park is the largest wilderness area in the state. Driving Times ~6 hours from Minneapolis, MN ~6 hours from Madison, WI ~3 hours from Duluth, MN ~5 hours from Green Bay, WI Camping Information There are several campgrounds ranging from rustic tent-only to those that offer RV sites with electric hookups. Backcountry Camping is allowed for about $20 nightly, and there are also cabins that may be reserved. Maps & Books Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park: A Backcountry Guide as well as Hiking Michigan's Upper Peninsula. For getting to and from the trailhead and an overview, the Delorme Michigan Delorme Atlas & Gazetteer can be useful. For maps, see the DNR backcountry map, and the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park Trail Map. A Pocket Guide is also available. Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 1 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

After a weekend hike on the Manistee River Trail loop, we were left with an interesting impression. While not a true wilderness experience, the trail has a unique feel that only the Michigan backwoods seem to offer. Quiet and remote, hiking the trail feels a bit like travelling back in time. The map shows that several roads will be crossed, but none are paved or graveled. Most are nothing more than wide, almost forgotten paths through the forest that see little use. It feels as though you’re walking through a country forest from some earlier point in time. On the west side of the 20 mile loop, you’ll travel along wooded hillsides as you follow one of America’s designated scenic trails – the NCT (North Country Trail). North Country Trail & Looping to the Manistee River Trail Cross the river to the other side and you’ll walk along the Manistee River Trail, (MRT) with scenic river views at nearly every turn. A pedestrian suspension bridge on the northern end, and the 2 lane highway bridge on the southern end (Red Bridge) allow for an easy crossing. Park at Seaton Creek Campground or Red Bridge, both of which offer potable water. Alternatively parking could be utilized at the Marilla Trailhead, the CP Canoe Portage, or even at the end of Slage Creek Road for a more remote experience. Designated campsites can be found along the eastern, MRT side of the loop, but dispersed camping is allowed throughout the forest provided that you’re 200 feet away from a water source. The Western NCT section can be dry, but Eddington Creek can usually be counted on to refill your bottles. Bring your fishing gear if you’re so inclined – brown trout inhabit the waters of the Manistee River. All of this can be found within a 6 hour drive of Chicago or a 4.5 hour drive from Detroit. National Geographic offers their Manistee & Huron National Forest maps, but the loop is unfortunately not covered. You can find a very basic map here. USGS topos could be useful. For getting to and from the trailhead and planning the hike from a general overview perspective, the Delorme Michigan Atlas & Gazetteer can be useful. Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 4 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional content and photos.