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Finding a great backpacking sleeping pad is the next logical step in getting your backpacking gear all set once you’ve decided on the big 3 (tent, sleeping bag, backpack). The sleeping pad rounds out what’s known as the big 4 in backpacking – and this list makes up some of the most important gear you’ll carry, both in regards to its importance on the trail, and includes the most expensive and usually heaviest items where the most weight can be saved. In this guide, we’ll look at the best backpacking sleeping pads that you can find on the market today. Note that in this guide, we’ll list the specs for the regular size if possible (generally 72x20 inches) and list the r-value as well – the higher the value the warmer the pad. Best Summer & Ultralight Backpacking Sleeping Pads For those that are looking to focus on a summer season specific sleeping pad and / or are looking for an ultralight solution for warmer seasons, there are a few standout choices on the market that weigh less than a pound. First, if you’re a backpacker just looking for set and forget type reliability and if you’re the type of sleeper that can find comfort in just about any flat place, the venerable closed cell foam sleeping pad could work, and will save some cash as well. The Therm-a-Rest Z Lite SOL (14 ounces, $60, 2.0 r-value), is a folding foam pad that makes packing easier (but as a foam pad, still bulky). This pad is a little light on the r-value, but would be sufficient for summer trips with moderate lows well above freezing. The NEMO Switchback folding pad (15 ounces, $60, 2.0 r-value) is a competing option in this regard and worth equal consideration. For more, see our review of the NEMO Switchback. These foam pads are also great as a sit pad outside the tent and on breaks during the hiking day. Most backpackers will want more sleeping comfort than a foam pad can offer however. For the lightest of the ultralight insulated inflatable sleeping pads, look no further than to the NEMO Tensor Elite (9 ounces, $230, 2.4 r-value). This new for 2025 pad will offer warmth for summer trips above freezing for most people and offers inflatable comfort, albeit in a mummy shape – this pad is all about saving weight. It should be noted that this pad utilizes 10 denier shell fabrics; extra care will need to be exercised. NEMO also offers their Tensor Trail Ultralight (14 ounces, $180, 2.8 r-value) that doesn’t quite have the warmth to weight of some of their other pads that we’ll discuss later, but this pad is a bit lighter and makes this category. The NEMO valve system allows for easy inflation, deflation, and fine-tuning of comfort level. Exped has offered some of our favorite sleeping pads over the years, and in this category they offer their 1R and 3R pads, with both coming in either mummy or rectangular designs. The Exped Ultra 1R mummy sleeping pad (11 ounces, $120, 1.3 r-value) isn’t insulated, and with this low of an r-value this will only be suitable for the warmest of summer trips. The rectangular version hits the scales a couple ounces heavier. Ever since the Synmat series, Exped has offered value and all-around sleeping pad performance. To me, the Exped Ultra 3R insulated pad (13 ounces, 2.9 r-value, $140) is a much more interesting pad. I’ve taken predecessors of this pad down to freezing or just a bit below, and lower than that combined with a thin ultralight foam pad (1/8" CCF foam). Again, Exped makes a rectangular 3R as well, but at a pound we are perhaps delving into the category to follow. However for me the leader in this category would be the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT (13 ounces, $210, 4.5 r-value) and this is an interesting pad because it’s also a leader in our next category as well. This pad has the ultralight weight that puts it in this category, and with the 4.5 r-value you likely won’t need to worry about warmth on summer trips. Looking for an ultralight pad for fast and light summer trips but that also packs warmth for the shoulder seasons? It’s a tall task to beat this pad for that type of use case. Summary: Best Summer & Ultralight Backpacking Sleeping Pads Therm-a-Rest Z Lite SOL NEMO Switchback NEMO Tensor Elite NEMO Tensor Trail Ultralight Exped Ultra 1R Exped Ultra 3R Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT Best 3-Season and All-Around Sleeping Pads This is your all-around, bread and butter sleeping pad category. While weights may not be the most ultralight due to the needed increase of r-value for 3-season and shoulder season temperatures, recent advances in sleeping pad technology (it all started with the original Therm-a-Rest NeoAir) have allowed for some very intriguing options to hit the market. Weights here are generally around a pound or just a little more, with insulation that should be good to freezing or a bit below. Choices in this category can be quickly narrowed down to just a few options. The best options include the NEMO Tensor All Season sleeping pad (around $200, 1lb) which is an excellent choice for 3-season use where warmth is appreciated, but it still might get chilly to below freezing at night with a possible cold snap taking things down to the 20s or below, or for cold sleepers any time of the year. With a 5.4 r-value and a rectangular sleeping shape, this pad has a warmth to weight to sleeping and packing space ratio that would have seemed impossible a decade ago. The NEMO Tensor All Season is my pick as the top overall sleeping pad currently on the market. For those looking to save more weight, the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT ($210, 13 ounces in the regular mummy, 4.5 r-value) again gets the weight down to an even more ultralight level with sufficient warmth for 3-season trips, and will save some space in the tent and pack if needed. This pad is also available in a rectangular shape – the NeoAir NXT MAX, which would be my choice if going with the NeoAir in this category, for the additional comfort. While the NeoAir line comes with an inflation bag that works well, it’s unfortunately not adequate to utilize as a dry sack for gear, as can be found in the Exped Schnozzel. That said it is included, and any inflatable pad these days should come with some type of inflation bag / solution. Inflation bag included with NEMO sleeping pads The great thing about these two pads is that they are light enough to be very justifiable for summer trips, have the warmth needed for shoulder season use, and can even be used for winter backpacking if you add in a foam pad to your system to boost the total r-value. It must be noted that new for 2026, Exped will be releasing their Ultra 6.5R sleeping pad line (16 ounces, $200) which takes their venerable synthetically-insulated sleeping pads and also adds in reflective foil to boost warmth. These pads are not released yet, however this line looks to be very interesting for those that want to sleep warm and are looking for a lightweight, but perhaps not ultralight, sleeping pad. While at a 6.9 r-value this line will work in the next section as well, the weight specs do put this line in the all-around category. Summary: Best 3-Season and All-Around Sleeping Pads NEMO Tensor All Season Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT Therm-a-Rest NeoAir NXT MAX Exped Ultra 6.5R Line (Pending) Best Winter Backpacking Sleeping Pads If you’re looking for a dedicated winter backpacking sleeping pad however, pads from NEMO and Therm-a-Rest again rise to the top. The NEMO Tensor Extreme Conditions Ultralight Insulated sleeping pad (18 ounces, $250, 8.5 r-value) isn’t the most lightweight in length of name but offers a very impressive weight to r-value specification and comes in multiple shapes and sizes. The NeoAir XTherm NXT sleeping pad (16 ounces, $240, 7.3 r-value in the regular mummy) from Therm-a-Rest is available in either a weight saving mummy shape (previous link) or in their XTherm MAX version in a larger, more comfortable rectangular version. These pads are very impressive on the spec sheet and in regards to warmth to weight ratio, achieving a warmth to weight to bulk combo that would have seemed impossible to achieve a couple decades ago. However, I prefer to use my all-around 3-season type sleeping pads combined with foam pads (Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest, etc.) for winter backpacking. The r-values add up, and the foam pad offers some redundancy in extremely cold conditions. As mentioned in the previous section, another pad to look at will be the Exped Ultra 6.5R line. At a 6.9 r-value this line could be used in winter conditions but at 16 ounces for the standard size would work for your 3-season trips, as well. Summary: Best Winter Backpacking Sleeping Pads Tensor Extreme Conditions UL Insulated NeoAir XTherm NXT XTherm MAX Add-on Closed Cell Foam Pads Exped Ultra 6.5R (Pending) Most Comfortable Backpacking Sleeping Pads & Best Wide / Long Options When comfort is the most important consideration (although keep in mind no matter how cushy, you won’t be comfortable if you’re cold), the Therma-a-Rest NeoLoft sleeping pad ($240) will be hard to beat. This larger air mattress has nearly 5” of height, but is still reasonably backpackable at 25 ounces. With a 4.7 r-value this pad should still keep you warm in 3-season type conditions. If you’re backpacking in, but will then be setting up a basecamp for a few days, this pad might be up your alley. For me however, I don’t quite need to go up to NeoLoft level to find comfort on the trail and thus can save a bit of weight. I like to look for a pad long enough so my feet don’t hang off the end, and wide enough that as a toss and turn side-sleeper I don’t have to worry about falling off the side. The previously mentioned NEMO Tensor All Season sleeping pad – but in the long wide version, or the NeoAir XLite NXT MAX (in the large) are leading backpacking sleeping pad comfort contenders here. 25” wide pads are appreciated in this regard, along with a pad that is slightly longer than your height combined with a good backpacking pillow. A good backpacking pillow setup, combined with the right size sleeping pad (NEMO Tensor series shown) will go a long way towards a comfortable night on the trail. Note that any inflatable sleeping pad will be made warmer and more comfortable if you add a closed cell foam pad underneath. If you’re only using an air pad, you’ll usually want to inflate fairly firmly for more warmth, but if using a foam pad under it you can deflate the pad to a softer firmness while still having sufficient warmth in typical conditions. And, if you toss and turn at night – instead of bottoming out the pad on hard ground, even a thin foam pad will add a surprising amount of cushion for your hips. It should also be noted that while a very niche item, if you’re looking for a 2 person backpacking sleeping pad the Exped Ultra 3R Duo (29-41 ounces, $250, 2.9 r-value) is an intriguing choice with separate inflation chambers for each person and in Exped fashion, is a compelling choice across the board. Summary: Most Comfortable Backpacking Sleeping Pads Therma-a-Rest NeoLoft NEMO Tensor All Season (in larger sizes) NeoAir XLite NXT MAX (size large) Add-on Closed Cell Foam Pads Exped Ultra 3R Duo (for two) Best Budget Backpacking Sleeping Pads If the latest greatest technology and spreadsheet leaders aren’t your thing, more budget-oriented sleeping pads in the $150 or less range are without a doubt quite workable. A venerable choice has been the Exped line – this line has a great valve system, vertical baffles that I find help keep you on the pad, and larger outer baffles to keep you centered. The Exped Ultra 3R insulated sleeping pad (16 ounces, $140, 2.9 r-value) is my choice in this category. This pad is warm enough for 3-season backpacking, can be used as part of a system with additional foam pads in winter, and won’t break the bank. The Ultra line from Exped and their predecessor from Exped (Synmat series) have been part of my backpacking gear repertoire for years, as they offer a nice blend of warmth, weight, comfort, ease of use, and price. If price however is of paramount importance, look to the Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest, the Therm-a-Rest Z Lite SOL, or the NEMO Switchback. These foam pads will not be the most comfortable, and depending on the sleeper may only be barely better than nothing in the comfort department, but they do add 3-season warmth and will get the job done for around $60 or less. That said, for deals on usually more expensive inflatable pads from time to time, it’s worth checking at the REI Co-op Outlet. Summary: Best Budget Backpacking Sleeping Pads Exped Ultra 3R Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest Therm-a-Rest Z Lite SOL NEMO Switchback REI Co-op Outlet Sleeping Pads In Conclusion Finding the right sleeping pad is important on the trail, both for warmth and for comfort. To some extent this all goes hand in hand – while comfort is more than just warmth, you can’t be comfortable no matter how cushy the sleeping pad if you’re cold. When I look for a sleeping pad I look for the lightest weight sleeping pad that will keep me comfortable and warm on backpacking trips, and one that is also sufficiently durable while meeting the budget while also being easy to use. You can find a complete selection of backpacking sleeping pads mentioned in this article along with additional choices here at REI Co-op. For more on sleeping pads take a look at our article: Choosing the Best Backpacking Sleeping Pad. For more on the “Big 3” of backpacking gear, see our articles: Best Backpacking Tents by Application and Budget and Best Backpacking Sleeping Bags, as well as our Best Backpacking Backpacks Guide.

One of the big 3 of backpacking gear choices (backpack, tent or shelter, and sleeping bag), the backpacking backpack you choose will have a profound impact on your comfort during the hiking day. Your pack will also be one of the more expensive items you’ll purchase, and to get the best pack within your budget a little research will be needed as there are a myriad of packs out there on the market. In this guide, we’ll look at the best backpacking packs currently on the market based upon anticipated pack weight and packing category (ultralight, lightweight, heavy weight) along with some budget options as well. For the purposes of this guide, we’ll focus on performance, availability, reasonable price, and reasonable longevity for the intended purpose. Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpacks If you’re a weekend or overnight backpacker and / or manage to keep your total pack weight at around 25lbs or less, more ultralight backpacking packs under 2lbs may be worth a look. That said, if you do plan on going over this weight from time to time, and prefer a quiver of one, the next section in this article may be more appropriate to evaluate. For ultralight loads and a mainstream option, look no further than the REI Co-op Flash Air 50 (just under 2lbs, $300). This pack keeps things simple with a feature set and a storage configuration that works, and has the advantage of being offered in both men's and women's versions. The Superior Wilderness Designs SL 40L UltraGrid (50L total, ~23 ounces, $300) is another option if you're looking for a framed pack (this pack is using dual tubular aluminum stays) that has load lifters and good storage, although the hipbelt pockets are something you'll have to add on (a bit like a car without cupholders). That said, you can even remove the stays from this pack if it's still not light enough for you to get this under 20 ounces. Frameless packs save weight, but are best for niche scenarios and the lightest (and generally short) backpacking trips. The Zpacks Nero Ultra 38L (38L total space, 10 ounces, $250) offers an ultralight option for the lightest of ultralight packers, but in typical Zpacks style still has organization and features you need in a pack of this nature. The Super Nero Ultra 50L boosts the space up to 50L total, with a pack weight of just 12 ounces at $270. Both of these packs are suggested for 20lbs or less of total pack weight. Another option is the MLD (Mountain Laurel Designs) Burn. This pack weighs in just over a pound and retails for $325 with 38L of storage. Featuring the tried and true combination of roll top main compartment, outside pocket, side pockets, and hipbelt pockets, the Burn is a nice option for ultralight overnights or beyond, so long as you are indeed focusing on the “ultra” of ultralight. Note that if you’re moving toward going ultralight, your backpack is the last thing you should upgrade. There is no point in exceeding the comfort limits of a pack just to achieve a target weight number on a spreadsheet. Comfort is more important and it’s better to have a slightly heavier, but more comfortable backpack when loaded. Summary: Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpacks REI Co-op Flash Air 50 SWD SL 40L UltraGrid Zpacks Nero Ultra 38 Zpacks Super Nero Ultra 50 MLD Burn Best Lightweight & Long Distance Backpacks This is the bread and butter category of backpacking packs if you’re focused on lightweight backpacking, planning longer trips where saving weight is a priority, or if you're planning on thru-hiking a long trail. These are the packs that are just right most of the time, just fine (if a little under-loaded) for an overnight, and can be pushed for longer trips – although they may not be the most comfortable for hauling heavy loads the first few days out and until some of that consumable weight is reduced. In this category and if your pack weight will be under 35-40lbs two packs from ULA Equipment have been a favorite choice of both mine and the backpacking community for years. My pick is the ULA Circuit (total volume 68L, 38.5 ounces, $300) that I’ve used on overnights up to 10 day trips and everything in between, although it’s definitely pushing it for trips over a week for me (whether you’d want to grab a pack from the next section in this article is a personal call). If you’ll be packing a little heavier, trend towards longer trips, and / or like more space the ULA Catalyst (75L total, 44.4 ounces, $320) will make more sense. To save a little weight and for a more waterproof pack Ultra versions of both of these packs are available. These two packs feature my favorite storage configuration for the trail (as previously described): large roll top main compartment, large outside back pocket, side pockets, and hipbelt pockets. In either case, you simply cannot go wrong with these two venerable ULA packs if you’ll be carrying less than 40lbs fully loaded (I’ve had 50lbs in the Circuit, not suggested but the pack was no worse for wear). And as a quick note if you're looking for a great kid's pack look no further than the ULA Spark. Another and newer pack to check out in this category is the Durston Kakwa 55 (around 60L total, about 31 ounces, $200-$260). This pack can be either had in the more affordable UltraGrid fabric option or Ultra 200X. Either way you get a pack with impressive organization at reasonable prices, and a pack that’s quite light but still can carry up to 45lbs. A note on Ultra: while many manufacturers have begun using Ultra (100X / 200X / 400X) fabrics for packs, durability has been mixed on the original fabric and the jury is still out on newer, further reinforced X versions. That said an Ultra pack will get you a completely waterproof pack (except seams unless taped). UltraGrid however, is a heavier denier nylon with a UHMWPE gridstop and a PU coating on the inside. This coating is rated at a 1500mm hydrostatic head – that’s as waterproof as some tents on the market. Fabrics similar to UltraGrid have proven themselves over the years. They will become more water-resistant in time, but these fabrics have held up very well to the trail – on or off trail for that matter – and have handled abrasion situations very well in my experience. Long story short, it is hard to beat a good gridstop fabric for packs. Gridstop may not be the most waterproof, but I have gridstop packs with a decade+ of usage that are still quite water resistant and there are other ways to keep your backpacking gear dry. This would include using a pack liner or a large dry bag or two…or alternatively a trash compactor bag would be suggested in regards to pack waterproofing. Gridstops aren’t as trendy as laminates, but I fully expect 10 years or more of use out of packs made with these gridstop ~200+ denier nylon fabrics and there is a lot to be said for that. Back to backpacks, for the lightest of the light, the Zpacks Arc Haul Ultra 60L (60L total storage, about 22 ounces, $400) is worth consideration – this pack is rated to carry 40lbs via a carbon fiber frame system with integrated back ventilation and as a bonus is also available in a women's specific version. The pack uses a lighter Ultra 100X to save weight – so this pack will be better for users that are willing to be a little careful with their gear in order to save the weight. Summary: Best Lightweight & Long Distance Backpacks ULA Circuit ULA Catalyst ULA Spark (for kids) Durston Kakwa 55 Zpacks Arc Haul Ultra 60 & Women's Best Load Hauler Backpacking Packs Weight (of the pack itself...or weight carried within it for that matter) can quickly spiral out of control in this category, with some manufacturers offering packs here that can weigh well over 5lbs. In this category we have a few main venerable larger players, with one example being the Gregory Baltoro and the Gregory Deva series, in particular the Baltoro 75 liter (~80 ounces, $360) and the Baltoro 85 Pro (around 88 ounces, $400), with the women’s version being offered in the Deva 70 backpack (about 75 ounces, $360) as well as the larger Deva 80 Pro pack (~84 ounces, $400). If you’re looking for a cushy mainstream get-it-done pack to haul large loads that can be on your doorstep a few days from now, the Baltoro and Deva packs have been a go-to for many years and are rated to carry up to 70lbs. Saving weight for the pack itself is not however a strong point here. If you’ll be hauling a heavy load (long trips, lots of food and water, or extras like packrafts or camera gear) but still have a lightweight approach like me, you may need to look at smaller companies to fill this niche. Leaders in this category include the Superior Wilderness Designs Wolverine 95L (a 70L is also offered) pack as well as their 95L Big Wild pack (no large outside back pocket), also offered in a 70L version. While color is usually not my primary concern when selecting a pack, these two SWD packs for better or worse are only made in Ultra 400X fabric which only comes in white or black – which I’d have to say, would be towards my last 2 choices when it comes to something like a pack or tent color. That said, these packs are rated to carry up over 50lbs for around $400 and will come in around 40 ounces for the pack itself, plus or minus depending on options. Be sure to check out their available add-ons if you want something like a hydration port or hipbelt pockets. Hipbelt pockets offer convenience and storage for smaller items you'd like to keep immediately at hand. A few other packs stand out here: Nunatak makes extraordinary gear and offers their Plateau Pack (around 40 ounces, $350) with an up to 75L capacity and capable of carrying 50+ lbs. This pack is more custom built and you’ll have to see if things like hydration ports or hipbelt pockets can be added. Be it Superior Wilderness Designs or Nunatak or even Seek Outside which we'll talk about to follow, plan in advance and buckle up for some wait times. Seek Outside offers a couple packs worth checking out – although Seek Outside seems to lean towards the lightweight backcountry hunting crowd at times, some of their products can be used for lightweight backpacking like the 79L Divide 4800 2.0 ($505, 55 ounces). However, Seek Outside takes no custom requests so if you want something like a hydration port, you’re out of luck unless you want to start cutting and sewing yourself. The largest pack they offer with a hydration port is currently the Gila 3500 2.0 ($485, 51 ounces). The Gila isn't all that large of a pack (for a load hauler pack) with a 57 liter pack bag, but you can use the top strap and bottom straps to carry items on the outside and the pack features Seek Outside's load hauling frame. Seek Outside’s frames are very uniquely rated for pretty much whatever weight you can physically carry, so if you’re looking to grab a single pack that can handle just about whatever you can throw at it in regards to pack weight, these are the packs that would be up to the task. Summary: Best Load Hauler Backpacking Packs Gregory Baltoro Gregory Deva SWD Big Wild 95 SWD Wolverine 95 Nunatak Plateau Pack Seek Outside Divide 4800 2.0 Seek Outside Gila 3500 2.0 Best Budget Backpacking Packs If you want to keep it under $200 (at least before shipping and tax) – which I would very much consider a budget range for a backpacking pack – the previously mentioned Durston Kakwa 55 in UltraGrid offers quite a bit of value in this category as long as you’re packing somewhat lightweight, with the REI Co-op Flash 55 (about 55 liters, just under 3lbs, $200) offering another option that’s worth ample consideration. The REI Co-op Flash has the bonus of being offered in both a men’s and women’s version and in my experience, this line has demonstrated good value and very acceptable performance. Another interesting sub-$200 option can be found in the Osprey Rook 65 backpack (men's) and the Osprey Renn 65L (women's). Designed to carry up to 40lbs, these packs offer 65 liters of space, basic features, and can be had for about $190 while weighing in just under 4lbs. A pack from the REI Co-op Flash series. It is also worth checking out the REI Co-op Outlet from time to time, as you can often find many packs or last year’s model that will be perfectly serviceable at a discount here. For a budget load hauler pack, this can be tough since these are typically the larger and more feature-packed (expensive) options. The aforementioned REI Co-op Outlet is a good place to start your search. That said the Kelty Asher 85 is also worth consideration – as you’d expect it’s an 85 liter pack that weighs in close to 6 pounds, but can carry a heavy load and retails for just under $200 full price. With use but not abuse, I’ve found that a quality lightweight backpacking pack can last quite some time – a decade or so – of frequent use. For me they can be pushed beyond that on trips but they will be showing some wear and tear. A backpack is critical for comfort on the trail however, so with that 10 year mark in mind that I get out of quality packs, I’m not afraid to spend up a bit if it translates to durability and additional comfort on the trail. Summary: Best Budget Backpacking Packs Durston Kakwa UltraGrid REI Co-op Flash 55 Osprey Rook 65 Osprey Renn 65 REI Co-op Outlet Packs Kelty Asher 85 My Approach to Backpacking Packs and in Conclusion If you like to keep your gear simple and want one pack to do it all, there are a few ways to go about your approach. You can pick a pack rated for the heaviest load you’ll ever carry, and while it may be a bit much for shorter trips it will work. Or you could go for a pack rated for the typical load you’ll carry, but your shoulders may be complaining at the start of longer trips. This can be done if you’re only rarely expecting to take these kinds of trips and saving the cash is more important than comfort (not my choice). You could also pick a pack for overnights, another for most trips in the middle, and an even larger pack for load hauling and the longest excursions. For me, I like two packs: one do it all (from the lightweight and long distance category) and another load hauler for extended trips with extra gear. One advantage of this route (multiple packs) is that it spreads the wear out a bit and your packs will last longer. For more information on how to choose a backpacking backpack, size, materials, and pack features and considerations, see our guide on How to Choose the Best Backpacking and Hiking Backpack. For a large selection of various backpacking packs that you can sort and filter by capacity and more, see this page at REI Co-op. For Related reading on the "big 3" see our articles, Best Backpacking Tents by Application and Budget as well as How to Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag.

Thanks Mac, and same to you! Hopefully there will be some great hikes in 2026 all around.

One of the most important considerations for successful (or at least comfortable) hiking and backpacking is your connection to the ground. While discussion regarding the best hiking shoes can and does go on and on, regardless of which shoe or boot you choose you need to make sure you get the right fit. If you follow size charts and measure your feet at home, it is likely you’ll end up with too small of a shoe size which can lead to blisters or other discomfort on the trail. Not to mention, on long hikes and on backpacking trips your feet tend to swell, complicating sizing and this is something that should be accounted for when sizing a shoe or boot. Further complicating the process is that shoe sizes are standardized but vary a bit between brands, along with other fit characteristics, and every hiker has their own personal preference regarding getting the right fit. How Much Space in a Hiking Shoe? For me, I like a shoe that is secure around the heel, with enough length that I have around an inch or so of space at the end of the toe box when standing. For a flexible shoe, I typically find that toe wiggle room is usually sufficient; however for a stiff boot if I can’t move my toes up and down for comfort, I choose a different boot. The extra space may at first seem like a bit much, but as the feet swell and so long as you get your lacing tension set well it becomes just right – plenty of toe room for comfort and long days. Hikers heading for more technical terrain may prefer a tighter fit when there will be less miles but more angled and varied terrain. But either way, I’ve found if in doubt it’s best to go for that half size up when in doubt when it comes to hiking footwear. For more on footwear selection across the seasons, read our guide on choosing the best hiking / backpacking shoes / boots. Ready to pick up your next pair? You can find a full selection of hiking shoes and boots here at REI Co-op. Editor's Note: This Trail Tip originally appeared in Issue 58 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

I just wanted to take a minute to wish everyone Happy Holidays. Have a wonderful holiday season and a very Happy New Year

Experience is certainly the best teacher, or at least the most effective, but when it comes to backpacking, it is far better to learn from others’ mistakes than to make them ourselves. Suffering the consequences of poor judgment or inadequate preparation can be uncomfortable at best. In the twenty years I’ve been backpacking and across a wide range of scenarios throughout the country on every type of trail, I’ve made plenty of my own mistakes and learned a great deal about preparation and training for ambitious multi-day hikes. In recent years I’ve taken up hiking in the Grand Canyon, where bail-outs are not as easy as hitchhiking on the nearest county road. As the signs at the canyon say, “Going down is optional, coming up is mandatory.” Don’t overtax the staff at the Park Service with avoidable issues of dehydration or blisters, but rather, be prepared! My excursions into the canyon have helped me fine-tune my approach to training and preparation for backpacking, and I continue to learn from others more expert than myself. Whether deep in the abyss of the Grand Canyon or high atop a peak in the Rockies, there are some fundamentals that should be considered for any backpacking trip. Prepare Your Body: Training & Physical Conditioning for Backpacking Human beings are very adept at self-deception, and one area in which we are most talented is overestimating our physical conditioning, then failing to test ourselves adequately before we attempt some epic undertaking. I’m a strong believer in maintaining a constant level of conditioning that will allow me to “train up” for a backpacking trip within a couple of months. Some may go backpacking so often that they don’t need to “train up” at all but I only do one or two major backpacking trips a year, necessitating a ramp-up each time. There are two aspects to preparing your body: one is conditioning yourself physically to carry a certain load over a certain type of terrain for a certain number of miles. The other is testing your physical and mental toughness and readiness for those certainties before you put yourself out there in a remote wilderness situation. To maintain a high level of fitness, I run two to three times a week, do strength training three times a week, and walk on the days I don’t run. When I am preparing for a backpacking trip, I add the stairclimber to my gym routine and start carrying my backpack with heavier and heavier weights on longer and longer hikes as the date of my trip approaches. Training for steep ascents and descents is the biggest challenge, since I live in the flatlands, but there are multiple ways to address this. In the gym, you can use the stairclimber and do step-ups to help prepare your legs for ascending. Walking backwards on a treadmill at maximum incline and pulling/pushing sleds also help. Of course, if you live in a mountainous area, this may not be a problem for you, but the main thing is to hone your body to become accustomed to the conditions you will experience on your hike, and finishing your training with the assurance that your physical conditioning (and mental toughness!) is up to the task. Neglecting this will make your experience far less enjoyable. It should be noted however, that overdoing it is a possibility. The last thing we want is to have to cancel a planned trip because we injured ourselves by over training for it. Prepare Your Backpacking Gear I’m often asked, “What is the most important piece of gear for backpacking?” The answer is footwear. It’s no surprise that you need to wear a well broken-in pair of shoes or boots and, like your body, footwear is something you need to test in training. Wear the shoes or boots you plan to hike in while you are getting in shape for the hike. That way you will find out whether your shoes give you blisters or rub hot spots, or have any other issues. Footwear Should you wear hiking boots or trail runners? It’s a personal choice, with trail runners becoming more and more popular, but if you are carrying a heavy pack the ankle support of a hiking boot may be beneficial. I did my first Grand Canyon backpacking trips in Keen hiking boots but used Hoka Speedgoat trail shoes for a rim-to-rim day hike and a rim-to-river-to-rim day hike. Both worked well for the task at hand. For more on footwear, refer to this guide on the TrailGroove Blog. And, good socks are essential. Look for Merino wool and synthetic materials, and stay away from cotton – other materials offer much better performance. Some hikers wear hiking gaiters to keep out rocks and sand, and this isn’t a bad idea. I wore gaiters on my rim-to-rim hike because of what I read about deep sand on one section of the trail but this proved to be a non-issue. Still, gaiters are not a bad idea if you are wearing trail shoes and want to prevent debris from invading your footwear. In some places, snow and ice are a consideration. Microspikes are handy in this case and I used YakTrax on one of my late spring backpacking trips in the Grand Canyon. Packs Second only to footwear, a properly fitted backpack is your most important piece of gear. It may be tempting to borrow a pack from a friend but if that friend’s body is not exactly the same as yours it could be a mistake. Go to an outdoor store and get fitted for the right pack. Look for a lightweight pack but think twice before sacrificing comfort. It may seem counterintuitive that a lighter pack would not be more comfortable, but I prefer my 3.5 lb. Osprey to my 1.5lb. Osprey because the hip belt on the heavier pack is more substantial and distributes the weight better. With any pack, test, test, test. These are items that I’ve found are particularly important to have dialed in and may require a few tries to get right prior to a trip (find more backpacking gear articles here). A successful backpacking trip starts with planning and packing at home. General Backpacking Gear List Overview Backpack Tent / Shelter & Accessories Sleeping Bag Sleeping Pad Backpacking Pillow (or stuff sack w/ spare clothes) Trekking poles (optional, suggested) Water Treatment & Water Storage Backpacking Stove, Fuel, & Cooking Gear / Utensils Lightweight Headlamp and Extra Batteries Lighter Small Pocketknife Food, Proper Storage Bear Spray (depending on destination) Toiletries & Hygiene Kit Clothing for the Weather & Extra Clothing / Rain Gear Map & Compass First Aid Kit Whistle Satellite Communicator Permits Additional Resources Some specific links are included above (when not otherwise linked to in this guide) for additional reading, and you can find all of these items here at REI Co-op. You can again find more information and specific articles on just about all of the above categories here on the TrailGroove Blog. Keep Your Pack Weight Down No one doing a three or four-day backpacking trip should have to carry more than 30-35 pounds. I’ve heard the rule of thumb as one-quarter of your body weight, and 30 pounds is more than that for me. But if you weighed 200 pounds, there’s still no sense in carrying a 50-pound pack just because you can…unless of course you prefer many heavier creature comforts. In general though, lighter pack weights lead to more successful longer hikes. In training, I gradually increase pack weight on training hikes, using the contents I will actually carry on the hiking trip. I once put a dumbbell and bags of beans and rice in my pack but that did not work out so well. Replicate your planned hiking experience in as many ways as possible. Make a formal gear list and weigh everything using a backpacking scale. Don’t take anything you really don’t need, although it does take experience to determine what “need” truly means. For instance, I do now carry a one-pound chair when I backpack because it’s worth it! When it comes to gearing up, checking out the gear selection at REI Co-op is a great place to start. A Note on Trekking Poles I am frequently astonished that anyone would question the need for trekking poles, especially when carrying a heavy pack. I’ve found that poles are extremely helpful on uneven terrain and they are of critical importance in taking the load off my knees when I am hiking downhill, as well as giving me an advantage when ascending. With poles, I have the added advantage of my upper body strength to help with the movement, almost becoming a four-legged animal. I prefer the collapsible (bungee-cord) kind to the telescoping poles. To me they seem more stable and reduce to suitcase size if you are flying. I have an old pair of Black Diamond poles I have used so much I recently had to replace the wrist straps. Otherwise, they are in good condition. I prefer cork handles as they provide better ventilation for your hands. I usually wear cycling gloves when using poles, however, as this protects my palms from rubbing. See the TrailGroove trekking pole guide for more info. Know the Route Phone apps have become increasingly popular in recent years, but they cannot replace a paper map. Things can happen to your phone and trails can sometimes become obscure. It’s fairly easy to follow trails in a place like the Grand Canyon but not always so in the deep woods. Thankfully, most “official” trails are well blazed, although distractions can lead to following what seems like “the trail” but actually is not. If you get to a point where you can’t see any more blazes, go back to the last blaze you saw and start again. You will often see the next trail marker when you take another look. Before you set out on your adventure, catch up on the latest trail reports for your destination. Closures, detours, etc. can all happen at the last minute. Online resources include, but are not limited to park websites / groups, trip reports, and even an old-fashioned call to the ranger station can be a great way to keep up. Plan in advance if permits are required and make sure you obtain those beforehand or ensure that you can obtain them in person once you arrive. Additionally, familiarize yourself with regulations prior to a trip. Once the plan and itinerary is set (and despite modern satellite communication devices, I still like to make someone else aware of this prior to setting out), one of the last things that is typically done is getting that food packed – the right food, the right amount, and the right way to pack it are all important considerations. You can find more on packing backpacking food here. As a last step, check the weather forecast before you head out so you’ll know what to expect and can plan accordingly. It is obviously ideal to have the gear you’ll need for any weather occurrence no matter the forecast, but if it will be particularly cold for example, swapping in the warmer of two insulating jackets or a pair of warmer socks to sleep in can be considered…and so on for other types of anticipated weather conditions. Practice, Practice, Practice There’s so much more to backpacking, but you get the idea. Learn all you can, test yourself and your gear, and prepare carefully. New backpackers will benefit from a trial run with an overnight backpacking trip close to home to test body, gear, tent, sleeping system, cooking setup, et cetera. One can gradually ramp up from there. When you get it all dialed in, it’s a beautiful thing. Have fun out there! Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 58 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here with additional photos.

Applied as a coating to many backpacking and hiking fabrics, PU (polyurethane) is a coating that adds a waterproofing layer to fabric, but also reduces tear strength. As the coating is applied to the face of the fabric it’s prone to wear over time, and most PU coatings will offer only moderate waterproofing when new, moving towards water resistance over years of use. This grid-stop fabric has a very light PU coating on the inside (used for a backpack in this case) to add some level of waterproofing. Polyurethane Pros & Cons Coatings are often applied so thin that you can barely tell they’re even there. While newer PEU (polyether urethane) coatings offer additional durability, PU coatings are best treated with care in regards to abrasion, along with proper storage techniques at home, along with allowing gear to fully dry before it’s packed up and stored. However, unlike silicone treated fabrics PU coatings allow for seam taping. Thus, many tents and waterproof stuff sacks for example, may have a PU coating on the inside to allow for seam taping while providing additional waterproofing, requiring no seam sealing by the end user at home. Editor's Note: This Jargon installment originally appeared in Issue 58 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

Trekking poles may be the most appreciated not required backpacking gear item you can come up with. Don’t take them and your legs do all the work, but you save weight and gear complexity. Take them and your upper body gets involved in the hike, and stability is added on rougher terrain with additional points of contact. Unlike your shelter or sleeping bag, trekking poles are without a doubt, not required for the trail. However, if you do take them, your knees will likely only thank you later. Trekking poles can be useful in many backpacking situations and across the seasons. Trekking Pole Use Pros and Cons Another great thing about trekking poles is their dual-use capability. Many ultralight tents on the market are designed specifically to utilize your trekking poles for setup in lieu of dedicated tent poles. This saves weight if you’re already a trekking pole user. That said, even traditional tents or tents that don’t utilize trekking poles for setup can benefit from the extra support that trekking poles can offer. By incorporating trekking poles on additional guy-out points you can create a more wind and weather-worthy tent. Instead of running a long guyline straight to the ground, run it to your trekking pole, then to the ground. This gets the guyline at a 90 degree angle to the fabric facet and results in a more effective guyout point. For this use, I do like to utilize a trekking pole cup to make things easier and cleaner. Trekking Pole Materials Most trekking poles will be made from either aluminum or carbon fiber and the pros and cons of those two materials for any other application typically apply. Carbon fiber poles like the Gossamer Gear LT5s will typically be lighter, but require more care and will break instead of bend as with aluminum. Carbon absorbs more shock than aluminum. As someone who appreciates lighter weights and shock absorption carbon is my preference here. If your trekking poles will face rougher usage, such as in a mountaineering type scenario or for winter use in snow, aluminum and going with a heavier / stronger trekking pole would be a good choice. With some care and large snow baskets however, I have had success using carbon poles in deep snow. Grips Foam or cork are the traditional materials here and you will want to go with your own personal preference in this regard. For me, I’ll take a foam grip over “agglomerated cork”, which is a material made from bits and pieces of natural cork glued together. I do prefer a natural-colored foam grip if I can get it (which typically looks like cork) to reduce the chances of sweaty hands causing dark dyes to stain my hands by the end of the day in the backcountry where handwashing isn’t quite as easy as at home. An open cell foam works well to absorb sweat during the day and has just enough give for comfort – but you’ll want to look for a rather dense foam. Cork however, is a traditional choice. Cork or foam no matter, note that backcountry critters seem to be especially attracted to chewing on trekking pole grips, as I’ve unfortunately experienced. Keep your poles in a safe spot when not in use! Collapsible vs. Non-Collapsible Trekking Poles & Locking Mechanisms To be completely honest, I have no preference in regards to closing mechanisms on trekking poles, so long as they work. I primarily look at material, grip, weight, price, and then make sure the pole extends enough for my height while collapsing short enough for easy transport. In general you will find me using twist-lock trekking poles – 2 section poles collapse plenty for me to get them in the vehicle and as any lock is a potential point of failure, I’ll take a 2 section pole over a 3 section if I can get it – it’s also one less thing to adjust. Poles may collapse via either a telescoping construction or by way of a shock corded sections that fit together, the latter of which may be preferred if you prefer more of a rapid deployment from stowed. Flick lock / flip lock / quick lock / clasp lock poles utilizing some type of lever lock closure are the other option and are generally less problematic than twist-lock poles and are usually found on trekking poles that are in the slightly heavier lightweight category, rather than the most ultralight. I have had some issues / annoyances using twist-lock poles in the past: if you don’t tighten them enough they can slip when you apply heavier force, and from time to time I have them fail to engage (the lock just won’t tighten and just spins and spins). The first problem is easily fixed – tighten the poles more, and with the second I’ve been able to remedy in the field, albeit with some fiddling at times. This all depends on the way the locks are manufactured of course. Test at home first. No matter what material or closing mechanism you decide to go with, make sure your trekking poles extend far enough for your height. Ideally, you’ll want your elbows at about a 90 degree angle on flat ground when holding the pole, but you may prefer more or less from this starting point. At home if you don’t have trekking poles currently, you can hold anything from a longer garden stake to a section of PVC pipe – whatever you have on hand – and if you don’t have a helper, use a mirror and a tape to obtain the measurement that works best and is most comfortable to you. Perpetually puzzling to me, at 6’ 2”, many and most ultralight trekking poles on the market are not long enough when fully extended for me – the Mountainsmith Andesite is an exception. You want to avoid pushing adjustable trekking poles beyond their maximum extension point as this will likely lead to breakage the first time you put substantial weight on the trekking pole, such as during a stream crossing. Of course, if transport is not a concern and you do not need to an adjustable trekking pole for your shelter / you don’t like to adjust your poles for uphills and downhills (many people like to shorten up for the uphills and extend for the long descents), a non-adjustable trekking pole can be an option and will save some weight along with potential failure points. As I do like to use poles with my shelter, I prefer to adjust length on occasion, and sometimes I just like to stash my trekking pole on my pack and like easy car transport, a 2-piece trekking pole has been the best choice and compromise for me. Note that some non-adjustable trekking poles do have multiple hand positions to help with the hills. Straps vs. No Straps & Accessories It’s a bit hard to believe, but after all this time I really have no preference for straps, and I buy based on other factors than this. Sometimes I use them – sometimes I don’t. The straps are nice to distribute weight and for more of a connection to the trekking pole when used properly, and are great for retaining the pole when you need to use your hands. They do however add a bit of weight and add a little complexity. Many times you’ll find me not using the straps and if I need to use my hands, I take a break and lean the poles against a tree, etc. – the straps being there and not being used doesn’t bother me. Other times, I use the straps with the weight distributed under the wrist (not just as a “keeper”). Long story short – sometimes I use them and sometimes I don’t, but they stay on my trekking poles. One item I am more opinionated about are trekking pole tips – and a rubber boot / rubber trekking pole tip stays on my trekking poles at all times, during all seasons, as long as I’m not encountering ice, which is the only thing I find the stock metal tips good for. These rubber tips leave less of a trace on the trail and on rock and are dramatically less noisy while absorbing a little more shock. All pros and few cons. The only con would be in mud – they can come off and the last thing we want to be doing is leaving any gear behind. Thus, I try to avoid mud when possible (example, aim for the rock or log rather than the deep mud) and keep an eye on the tips through any unavoidable muddy sections to make sure they don’t come off. Or more likely, I will simply briefly carry them through these sections. You may need to experiment with different offerings for the best fit. During winter, these do get removed for me since I use my same trekking poles across the seasons. However, this wouldn’t be an issue if you have ultralight 3-season poles combined with a heavy duty aluminum winter pole, or if you’re not a 4-season hiker – and in these cases you could consider a more permanent attachment of the rubber tips / boots. In regards to baskets, as previously mentioned for snow, the larger the basket the better and these can usually be screwed right on. While debatable, for 3 season use I do like one of the small faux snow baskets typically included with trekking poles – they help in unexpected mud and keep your poles from going too far down between talus blocks, help prevent or limit some rock strikes on carbon poles, and perhaps most critically make stowing poles on the back of my pack easier. Weight and Price The lightest carbon trekking poles on the market will likely weigh in around 4-5 ounces each, but as previously stated many of these are not suitable for taller users. A more average range among lightweight poles will see you looking at poles that are around 7-8 ounces or so, like the REI Co-op Flash Carbon Poles. I would without a doubt suggest looking for a set that weighs in under a pound for both at the most, lightweight is not only nice to reduce your total weight carried on the trail but keep in mind this is an item you’ll be swinging forward thousands of times a day. Going as light as possible while still staying in the budget and meeting your durability requirements is the key here. In regards to price it’s safe to cap spend for a pair at just under $200, and many great choices can be had for less. Conclusion Trekking poles, or at least one pole, are something that every backpacker should probably have on hand to at least consider taking along on their next trip. For me, I prefer to almost always hike with just one which is a good compromise and a choice that both helps my knees and stability but also reduces the fiddle-factor by half when it’s time to grab a snack or a photo opportunity arises (quite frequently for me) on the trail. However, if the trip is particularly long with a lot of food to carry, or it’s a desert trip with a heavy water carry, you’ll find me using two. Personal preference varies and you may prefer two poles on anything from a quick day hike to longer backpacking trips. All said, trekking poles – a fancy version of the traditional hiking staff that’s been used for just about forever, adds some complexity and is another thing to keep track of on the trail, but as any trip concludes with the trailhead back in sight again your knees will likely only thank you. You can find a full selection of trekking poles here at REI.com. Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 58 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here with additional photos.

The arrival of spring brings a lot of things for the outdoor enthusiast to get excited about, including longer days, warm temperatures, and melting snow for those of us in the north. However one additional perk that spring brings is the annual REI Member Reward (previously known as the REI Dividend) release. For REI members, this is the time of the year when REI Co-op members receive their rewards from REI purchases you made during the 2025 season. Gear-up with the help of REI Member Rewards When are Rewards Applied? I've been an REI Co-op member for about 25 years – I originally signed up to get an REI Dividend when purchasing a higher-priced jacket, where the dividend back ended up being more than the price of the REI Membership itself (at the time). Each year it seems the rewards are applied a bit earlier in the season. While March is the official timeline here, frequently and if you check, you might just find your member rewards sitting in your account early in the month or even in late February these days. REI Co-op also offers an annual member sale in March, and by using your reward combined with discounts during the sale, you can often pick up some nice gear at a nice discount and perhaps with no money out of pocket. While it's not quite January (which is when I usually start getting ancy for the season ahead and start contemplating what I'll use my REI Reward towards), the March or so release on the membership reward is usually good timing for hiking season and REI Membership sales. How to Check Your REI Reward / Dividend Balance Your rewards are first applied to your online REI account. However, you can also easily check your REI Membership balance here (from time to time at the previous link, you may be able to check your balance without logging in). Additional notices will arrive later by snail mail provided that you made at least $10 in purchases the previous year, unless it was your first year as a member. Note that your reward does expire. You typically have almost 2 years to use your balance. For example, for rewards that will be applied in spring of 2026, you'll have until January 3rd, 2028 to use your balance. Use it or lose it! REI Rewards arrive just in time for spring. How Much is the REI Reward? REI members typically receive 10% back on eligible purchases. This is on full-priced REI purchases only, REI Outlet and sale items don't apply here and you won't get a reward back on sales tax, either. Additionally, some services like classes, gear rentals, REI gift card purchases, garage sales, or an REI Adventure Trip for example, are not eligible or are only eligible at a reduced amount. More details on all the fine print here. Throughout the calendar year, you'll accrue these rewards; the total will then be applied to your account the following year. For example, in 2026 all the rewards you accumulated during the 2025 calendar year will be applied to your account. Thus, is it really a 2025 or a 2026 member reward? It's a bit open to interpretation. Note that while you won't earn rewards if you're buying gift cards, you do earn rewards back when you shop using a gift card towards an REI purchase. While your purchases on clearance items, used gear, or REI Adventure Travel won't accrue rewards, once you're signed up for a membership you'll start to earn rewards from your very first purchase on new gear purchased at full price at REI. Other Ways to Earn Towards your REI Co-op Member Reward If you're interested and choose to sign up for the REI Co-op Mastercard in combination with your REI Membership, you can also find ways to add a boost to your total REI Rewards when Co-op member reward season rolls around. If you are looking for another credit card, the REI Co-op Mastercard gives Co-op members additional rewards on purchases at REI, on additional services at REI, and even on purchases outside REI. These rewards are all combined with your normal purchases at REI throughout the year and added to your total REI Rewards. While we are not looking to broaden our horizons here at TrailGroove into the financial advice sector, the REI Co-op Mastercard does offer the potential to raise up your total REI Rewards, even on groceries. When you purchase gear at REI, you can earn rewards towards next year's purchases with a one-time membership fee. How to Use Your Rewards Rewards are applied to your account and can be used at REI.com and in the REI app at checkout, just make sure you check the box to redeem your balance before finalizing your purchase. At an REI store, you can ask an associate to apply your balance at the register. In the days of old, you could also request your balance as a check later in the season, but REI Co-op no longer offers this option. I always used my balance before they became paper check-eligible, anyway. Even if you're all set on gear, I find replacing old socks and stocking up on some freeze-dried meals for the backpacking season ahead is always a slam-dunk no-brainer type of purchase. While you won't be earning a Co-op Member Reward for REI Outlet purchases, you can certainly use already-earned REI Rewards towards gear when you shop REI Outlet discounted gear. REI Rewards are applied in March and are (for the most part) based on the total amount you spent on full-priced items during the previous calendar year. How to Become an REI Member While this has gone up a bit in recent years, an REI Co-op Membership is just a one-time $30 charge for life. Once signed up you'll be eligible for member rewards and member sales. As long as you plan on shopping at REI more than once it's likely worth the sign up cost – you can become a member here. After your one-time membership fee you'll be assigned a unique member number associated with your lifetime membership. The longer you've had your REI Co-op Membership the lower your member number will be. Whether you shop online or in REI stores, make sure you're purchases on outdoor gear are associated with your REI Membership number either by logging in at checkout or by relaying your REI Membership number to an associate at an REI store. Overall REI offers a great rewards program and it's hard for me to imagine being an outdoor enthusiast without being a member. Members may also receive early access to new gear, special pricing, & more deals from time to time. In Conclusion Provided that you've accrued a balance in your account, REI Reward season typically arrives at just the right time to get ready with new gear for the spring and summer hiking season ahead. Whether it's a new sleeping bag or just a new pair of socks, having a little credit sitting in your REI Membership account combined with the sales that REI offers during this season, can go a long way towards getting your outdoor gear set and your spring hiking off to a great start. Head over to REI.com to learn more about their membership benefits and you can check your balance here.

Although this recipe is heavy on the weight, it is absolutely huge on the flavor and was one of my favorite meals from my backpacking trips this summer. It serves two hungry hikers – the amount of pasta used is double what is typically suggested, so you might reduce this if you typically have a small appetite. However, since there is no thick and meaty sauce involved, the pasta makes up for this. This backpacking pasta salad meal offers plenty of freshness that is typically lacking in backpacking cuisine. Cookware Needed You'll need a large capacity pot – approximately 2 liters (for example the Sea to Summit Frontier 2L cookpot – use caution to prevent boiling over) as well as a knife and a clean cutting surface. Additionally you'll need at least one dish (the pot counts as one serving vessel). Backpacking Pasta Salad Ingredients 8 oz Tri-color rotini pasta Small tomato Small green pepper Two mozzarella string cheese sticks 6 oz summer sausage Fresh basil leaves Dressing Ingredients 3 oz olive oil 1 oz white vinegar Teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon sugar I typically don't do any of the prep for the salad itself until I arrive at camp to keep the vegetables as fresh-tasting as possible. I do prep the salad dressing at home and carry it in a small Nalgene bottle. First, bring around a liter of water to a boil and cook the noodles for approximately 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Properly dispose of the water according to Leave No Trace guidelines and, while the noodles are cooling (you can add cold water to them to help speed this up, if desired) move on to prepping the other ingredients. Slice the green pepper, dice the tomato, and cut up the string cheese and sausage into bite-sized portions. Add these into the pot with the pasta, add salad dressing, and stir until well-mixed. Once the portions are separated and ready to serve, tear up the basil leaves and place them on top. Packing Considerations If eating this meal on the first night of a trip, which is a good idea since the ingredients are on the heavy side, you shouldn't run into any issues with refrigeration. The veggies and unopened summer sausage have the least risk, but the basil and string cheese and salad dressing should be kept cool if possible. I typically do this by insulating them inside my pack – make sure the dressing is well-sealed – after taking them out of a cooler at the trailhead. Since it isn't a hot meal, it's a great dish to eat during summer for dinner or even for a big lunch during the day across the seasons, and the flavors are all very fresh. Editor's Note: This recipe originally appeared in Issue 48 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

A clothing system for backpacking needs to be as lightweight as possible while still performing a variety of critical tasks in an ever-changing and varied wilderness environment. A clothing system must be comfortable, will act as our first line of defense to keep us warm, and should protect us from the sun, precipitation, biting insects, and bumps and scrapes on the trail to name a few concerns. While each of these tasks are easily obtainable with dedicated and specialized items of clothing, when it comes to backpacking a clothing system is best composed of more generalized items. Your hiking clothes should all work together as a system using layers under different circumstances – a system where weight is reduced and efficiency is obtained via a sum of its parts. In this post we’ll look at clothing systems and a list that works well for most 3-season conditions a hiker and backpacker will face, and for the organizational purposes of this post, we’ll start with headwear and work our way down to the socks. One way to cool off on a particularly hot day in the mountains Headwear Sun Hats A hat is one area where a one-size-fits-all-situations solution may be hard to come by. For hiking during the day sun protection is key, and nothing will beat a wide-brimmed hat. The wide-brimmed hat offers little compatibility with the hood of your rain jacket during rainy weather however, and a baseball style hat actually works very well with hoods to help keep the hood in place and out of your face. The solution comes down to personal preference; frequently if a trip is forecasted for fair weather I’ll opt for a wide-brimmed hat, and if the forecast calls for clouds and frequent rain, I’ll go with a hat of the baseball variety – sun protection can still be obtained here by combining the hat with something like a buff, bandanna, or hooded shirt – but this configuration will not make its own shade like a wide-brimmed hat. Warm Hats Either way, this during-the-day choice should be paired with a beanie type hat, and I prefer something of the fleece variety here, but many other options are popular ranging from wool to down. Whichever way to go, this piece should be warm and if it blocks the wind, either through the use of dense outer fabrics or through use of a wind block fleece, a warm hat will go a long way towards keeping you warm in camp, while sleeping, and during cold morning starts on the trail. During mosquito season throw in a headnet as well – but find much more on dealing with biting insects here. This desert trip required some thought in regards to hiking clothes that would offer sun protection without being too hot. Upper Body Shirts I take this beyond a 3-layer layering system, but only slightly. I find that an additional shirt adds versatility, comfort, and total system warmth – I start with a simple short sleeve 100% synthetic shirt and haven’t found anything that fits better, dries faster, or is more comfortable than our own TrailGroove Performance shirt. However, while comfortable a short sleeve shirt offers limited protection against the sun or mosquitoes (requiring extra sunscreen or bug repellent), or crisp and chilly mornings. Thus – and this is one of the most versatile clothing items out there – I add in a lightweight, long sleeve, zip neck shirt as can be found here at REI, and I’ve had good success with Patagonia’s Lightweight Capilene line as well. The higher neck offers additional warmth, but you can vent as needed on the fly with the zip-neck front while the longer sleeves also offer sun and bug protection, warmth, and can be pushed up for those uphill sections when you start to warm up. With such versatility, if I’m not wearing it – this is an item at the top of my pack that I can reach for quickly. If preferred, a button-up style collared shirt can also work well here. This layer can – as long as you’re content wearing a long sleeve shirt all the time as your primary layer – replace the short sleeve option if desired. While I prefer synthetics, merino wool is another option for both parts of the system listed above. Wool offers an additional benefit of keeping the hiker stink down on those longer trips, and is generally more expensive. Either way, it’s best to avoid cotton clothing items all around, save for specific hot and dry weather hiking situations where you can get away with mixing some in. Don’t overlook color choices as well which can help you stay cool or warm as needed and more – for much more on that factor take a look at this article. Warm Jackets Any upper body clothing system isn’t complete without a jacket, and for 3 season use, combined with the additional layering options that a complete system will offer, we don’t need to go overboard with something too warm – and too heavy. Lightweight down jackets are very popular both on the trail and at any local, trendy coffee shop in cool weather, and are a good choice for the mountain west where predominantly dry, low humidity conditions will be encountered. Just like down sleeping bags these jackets will offer excellent warmth for their weight. Synthetic-fill or fleece jackets are another option and are especially suited for wetter conditions and more humid and rainy locales; fleece is an especially good option if you wish to utilize this piece while actually hiking, but a fleece will need to be paired with another, wind blocking layer any time wind is a factor. A good weight target for a 3-season jacket is under a pound, and around 10 ounces will put you on the lighter end of the scale while still offering adequate 3-season warmth when layered. A hood here is optional – but I find the weight penalty well worth it for the extra warmth a hood provides. You likely won’t need or use that puffy jacket during the day while on the trail, but it will be welcomed at the end of the day, for adding warmth in your sleeping bag at night, and while sipping coffee first thing on a frosty morning. Some examples of insulated jackets can be found in the Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer and the REI Magma jacket. Slightly heavier warmer options include the Montbell Mirage, more expandable across other seasons or for those that run colder. Lower Body Pants and Alternate Options Preferences for your legs will vary – from shorts, to pants, to convertible pants, to skirts and even kilts. Anything that’s not full coverage is best reserved for fair weather on-trail hiking – talus, brush, briers, etc. can quickly wreak havoc on an unprotected hiker’s legs, and will force you to use copious amounts of insect repellent during bug season. My preference is for long pants that protect against those mosquitoes, can be tucked into your socks for tick prone areas, and offer substantial protection when offtrail or for the occasional slip on the trail. Currently, I use the Zion pants from Prana – and I prefer the convertible option. I actually rarely hike with them in “shorts mode”, but with convertible pants that option always exists and I mainly use the leg zippers as well placed vents in hot weather. By unzipping the zippers on these convertible pants about halfway, your legs are ventilated with each step forward, while still being protected from the elements. By unzipping the legs partway, convertible pants can be vented when needed. Thermal Pants and Undergarments A thin pair of thermal type synthetic or wool pants will add additional warmth on chilly trips and will be welcome on cold nights and mornings – something like a lightweight Capilene option is perfect here and will really add some warmth when layered under hiking pants. This is an optional item for me though, and will stay behind on mid-summer trips to save pack weight. Whether lower or upper body, underwear may be getting into a bit of a sensitive issue – with comfort being key, adequate support where needed, and something that quickly dries making up the most important factors. While you don’t need spare shirts and pants and a change of clothes on the trail, an extra pair can without a doubt be nice to bring here for a rotation. Socks and Gloves Socks on the Trail A bit less sensitive but just as personal, socks and gloves (usually wool or synthetic) round out the package and perhaps most of all, socks will be critical to enjoying any hike. A good sock really can make all the difference – as a personal example if I go with a synthetic sock I’ll likely get a blister on every trip; since switching to merino wool socks I haven’t had a blister...in years. Thus, while I’m primarily a synthetic guy for most of my other clothing choices (save the down jacket), I’m in the pro wool camp when it comes to socks; merino wool is less abrasive, dries in a respectable and adequate time, and maintains comfort for your feet across many conditions from hot and dry to wet and cold weather. While I take few spare hiking clothes in any other category, you will want at least two pairs of your favorite hiking socks here at a minimum, and I usually take 3 so I always have a dry pair to sleep in. When one pair gets soaked, hang them on the outside of your pack so they’ll dry during the day, and rotate as needed. My preference are socks from Darn Tough, and I usually go for their light cushion socks or the cushion micro crew versions. Fit is key and different brands fit different people differently, so try as many as you can until you find the right option for you. Height depends on your preference and mostly your hiking shoes – hiking boots will be best served by a higher sock and trail running shoes by a lower sock, etc. For more, check out our article on how to choose the best hiking shoes or boots. A pair of lightweight, but warm gloves or mittens will be needed for chilly days. Gloves for Backpacking Any light pair of gloves will be suitable for 3 season use and selection here is not as important as something like a good sock that’s subject to constant motion in your shoe and a heavy duty, insulated, waterproof glove is not needed – just a pair of lightweight liner gloves or mittens made from wool, synthetics / fleece are perfect to take the edge off when a cold front rolls through on an early fall day. For more warmth and to shield your digits from wind and precipitation use your liner gloves with a waterproof rain mitt – more on that in the next section. Rain Gear (Rain Jackets, Rain Pants, & Rain Mitts) Rain gear completes out the package, and things can get complicated quickly when it comes to waterproofing and breathability ratings; as both of those metrics go up together often so will the price. The 3 important factors here are something that’s waterproof, lightweight, and offers some breathability at whatever price point you choose. Many high-end options exist at the lightest weights like the Helium rain jacket from Outdoor Research and many others. At a mid-range and mid-weight price point, the Marmot Precip series is hard to beat. And at somewhat of a bargain, check out the various Frogg Toggs options, although durability may not be a selling point here. In regards to durability, rain pants will face a rougher existence when worn, but rain jackets are something you'll wear hiking and in camp more often. Staying dry is the most important issue at hand here, and while items like a parka will work, for layering purposes and the most coverage I find that a separate rain jacket and rain pants work best. With many heavy-duty options out there this is an easy category to go too heavy, but an equally good category to save pack weight. Around 20 ounces or so for a rain jacket and pants combination is a respectable target, with around 12 ounces total being in more of an ultralight range. A pair of rain mitts – I use the MLD eVent offering or the REI Minimalist GTX – will keep hands warm during chilly rainy days. You can find the latest version of the REI Minimalist GTX mitts here at REI Co-op. Rain gear isn't something you'll wear all the time, but when you need it, you need it and you need it quickly. Be sure to keep your rain gear stashed in an outside pocket of your backpack or somewhere immediately accessible (that also won't get other gear wet) where you can reach it quickly. Don’t forget that rain gear isn’t just for rain: you can don your rain gear to block the wind, protect against mosquitoes, and to add warmth as an outer layer anytime it’s needed in cold weather and even in your sleeping bag at night for more warmth, so be sure to size appropriately so you can layer underneath. Keep your rain gear in an outer pocket of your pack for easy access during the day when a shower rolls through, or when you just want to use your rain jacket for the wind on a lunch break. The rest of my clothes not worn are stored in a waterproof stuff sack like a Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil dry bag or the multi-use Exped Schnozzel. Rain gear can tend to get clammy, but wearing your other moisture wicking clothing underneath (at least a layer) will help in this regard. My 3 Season Backpacking Clothing List Sun hat Warm hat / beanie Short Sleeve Shirt Lightweight Long Sleeve Zip Neck Light Down / Synthetic Jacket 2 Pair Underwear Hiking Pants Baselayer Bottoms (optional) Liner Gloves Rain Mitts 2-3 Pair Socks Trail Runners Rain Jacket and Pants Dry Bag (for anything not worn) Final Thoughts Typical 3 season conditions can involve everything from hiking in the heat of summer to light snow and in cool wet conditions – sometimes on the same trip – and in locales ranging from the desert to alpine tundra to a rain-drenched forest. Much like your other hiking gear once dialed in, an adequate clothing system simply and quietly does its job on the trail across all of these conditions; so that we can relax and enjoy the wilderness ride no matter the sun, the rain, mosquitoes, or even a bit of snow around the shoulder seasons…or wherever the next backpacking trip may take us. You can browse just about all types of outdoor clothing for backpacking and hiking, and sort and filter by many of the points we've discussed in this article here at REI.com.

When it comes to backpacking stoves, there are several routes one can take and several different main categories of stoves exist – each with an array of pros and cons. Without a doubt however, no matter which way you go about it the backpacking stove is an important part of any overnight or multi-night gear ensemble. A backpacking stove provides hot meals and drinks, goes a long way towards keeping you warm on chilly mornings and evenings, and for backpacking and hiking a stove needs to be convenient, lightweight, and reasonably fast to use with readily available fuel. Canister stoves offer proven performance with a convenient fuel source. The Canister Stove A canister stove uses a pressurized gas canister for its fuel source, and this fuel can be butane, isobutane, or propane and is usually a mixture of these fuels. These canisters are available in different sizes for varying trip lengths, and if you'll be using the canister in colder temperatures, you want to avoid a canister containing regular butane as its vaporization temperature is quite high in the 30 degree range (translation: your stove may not work / performance will suffer / it may be difficult to use in colder temperatures). However, canisters containing a mixture of isobutane and propane are much more suitable as temperatures drop. Isobutane will vaporize down to about the 10 degree mark and even lower as you gain altitude, and propane vaporizes down to the arctic-like temperature of minus 44, but there is only so much propane in your usual backpacking canister mix. Canister valves automatically open and close when you connect and disconnect the stove for ease of use and packing, and note that you can mix and match brands here – you don’t necessarily have to match the maker of your stove to your canister brand. As long as the canister has a Lindal valve you are good to go. Popular blended canister fuel brands include MSR IsoPro as well as fuel canisters from JetBoil and propane / isobutane mixtures from Snow Peak. Inverted canister stoves excel during cold weather. Either way canister stoves offer convenience: they are easy to carry, usually fuel efficient, simple to use, and the pre-packaged fuel is likely readily available at your local outfitter. While having the fuel contained and prepackaged provides that convenience, they are non-refillable and after a while you are likely to end up with a bunch of canisters that don't have enough fuel to get you through a trip, but aren't empty either. They are recyclable if empty and punctured, and Jetboil makes a specific tool for that purpose. A necessary accessory for any canister stove user should be a digital kitchen scale that measures to the gram – this way you can always calculate the exact amount of fuel inside a canister before a trip. Canister stoves excel at boiling water, but you can dial the flame down and simmer…or even bake…with practice and with the right approach. Upright Canister Stoves Among canister stoves, upright canister stoves screw directly into the top of the canister and can be quite light – with many of these stoves falling in the 2-3 ounce range. I’ve used upright canister stoves with isobutane / propane canisters on trips with lows in the high teens, but usage much below these temperatures will become difficult, especially considering that the longer you use a canister in a sitting, the colder it will become – colder than the actual outside temperature – due to evaporative cooling. In cold or cooler temperatures it’s good to keep a few tricks in mind. In cold temperatures you can place the canister in a bit of water inside a container like a shallow bowl if needed to keep the canister’s temperature up and maintain performance, and sleeping with the canister inside your sleeping bag is never a bad idea when temps get chilly to give you a head start in the morning. Soto WindMaster Upright Canister Stove with MSR IsoPro 110 gram Fuel Canister Other types of upright canister stoves feature an all in one, integrated canister stove system like many of the system offerings made by Jetboil and options like the MSR WindBurner that are designed to be particularly efficient, at the cost of upfront weight, while saving fuel. These systems may be a good option if your primary need is boiling water. I personally prefer a more typical upright canister stove and like to choose different pots – like those from the Evernew Ultralight Series – depending on the trip. In recent years several upright canister stove options that utilize a pressure regulating valve have made it to the market, often claiming to increase overall and cold weather performance. While these stoves won't replace an inverted or liquid stove for cold conditions, I have found them to have better and more predictable performance overall when compared to other options featuring a standard needle valve. Popular upright canister stoves include my current choice, the Soto WindMaster – find our full review here, and a couple classic examples can be found in the MSR Pocket Rocket 2 and the Snow Peak GigaPower. Integrated canister stoves like the Jetboil Zip are also quite popular. Remote and Inverted Canister Stoves Remote canister stoves keep the canister remote from the burner and feed fuel via a hose. This allows for two benefits: remote canister stoves let you really shield the burner with a large windscreen to block wind and hold in heat to save fuel while the canister remains outside the windscreen – in an upright canister stove this would make the canister too dangerously hot. Secondly, if said remote canister stove allows you to use the fuel canister in an inverted position, a solution to the colder weather fuel vaporization issues previously discussed is realized, as using the canister upside down feeds fuel in a liquid form where it's subsequently preheated and vaporized at the hot burner of the stove itself in cold and very cold temperatures. For a remote canister stove that allows for inverted use, I use the MSR WindPro II. You can find our WindPro II review here. MSR WindPro II and Remote Canister For all types of canister stoves I like a dedicated starter if I can get it, and always look for built in piezo ignition. A separate piezo starter can be used if your stove of choice doesn’t feature one, or a lighter will do the job as well. Piezo igniters can fail, but they can also be replaced. Of course, always have a backup ignition source in your separate fire starting kit, but the convenience of a piezo igniter has far outweighed any small amount of hassle in my experience. No matter if you're using an upright or inverted canister fuel stove, be sure to dispose of spent fuel canisters appropriately. Liquid Gas Stoves The bread and butter stove of cold weather camping and for mountaineers alike, liquid fuel stoves like the MSR Whisperlite International are reliable options that burn white gas, or even an array of liquid fuels including gasoline (note that the Whisperlite Universal also runs on canisters). A liquid fuel stove will work well in very cold weather, but most liquid fuel stoves are heavier and more cumbersome to use in regards to the need to handle liquid fuel in refillable fuel bottles, priming the stove, complicated hardware with more moving parts and maintenance etc. However, if you’re into group or complex meals like baking on the trail, a liquid stove may be hard to beat (options like the MSR Dragonfly are specifically designed with simmering in mind). A liquid fuel backpacking stove is thus perhaps best for the cold weather backpacker, the backpacking chef, or those who desire a stove that will work across all conditions who might not mind the extra weight and the potential hassle of a fuel bottle for 3 season use. Alcohol Stoves Alcohol stoves are designed to run on denatured alcohol (available at many hardware stores, etc.), or for my use I’ve always run them on the cleaner highest proof grain alcohol (Everclear). The benefits of an alcohol stove are weight and simplicity, there aren’t any complicated mechanisms or moving parts – you usually just fill and light the stove. With simplicity comes reduced weight, and the stove can even be made from tuna cans, soda cans, and the like. Alcohol stoves can be subject to fire restrictions and require some extra care with the open flame and fuel. I’ve used alcohol stoves across many conditions and my favorite offering is the Trail Designs Ti-Tri system that works well to trap the limited heat that an alcohol stove produces while blocking wind, greatly increasing efficiency. Another venerable alcohol stove option can be found in one of the several Trangia burners that are available. Alcohol Stove from Trail Designs Regardless, if you go with an alcohol stove you will definitely want a windscreen of some type. Alcohol stoves usually compete with upright canister stoves; ultimately the choice is up to you regarding which benefits you find most appealing and on longer trips, the increased efficiency of a canister stove may begin to cut into an alcohol stove’s weight savings. Fuel for an alcohol stove can perhaps be easier to find, and alcohol stoves have been popular for thru-hiking and ultralight backpacking usage for some time. With an alcohol stove you can dial in the exact amount of fuel you need prior to a trip instead of having to take a full canister each time, and perhaps taking too much fuel and the extra weight. On the other hand with a digital scale and some partial canisters to choose from, you can get close with a canister as well. Wood Burning Stoves Ti-Tri Wood Burning Stove Many wood stoves exist on the market, with of course the simplest way to cook with wood being a small campfire – which I’m most likely to use when cooking in this manner – although I’ve utilized the combo wood or alcohol burning Trail Designs Caldera Ti-Tri system for this purpose as well. A wood stove won’t beat a campfire in weight carried, but will beat it in convenience and efficiency. Cooking with wood of course requires you collect wood and start a fire, and would have to be ruled out in areas where fire bans are in effect. Wood also leaves residue on pots and the stove, but a wood fire is hard to beat for ambiance, and fuel is free and you don’t have to carry your fuel in your pack during the day. Chemical Tablet Stoves Stoves that burn manufactured hexamine chemical tablets like those from Esbit are quite efficient and very lightweight. Like alcohol stoves, you will want a windscreen to maximize efficiency and block any wind here. These tablets and Esbit fuel can be a bit hard to find if you’re in a pinch, but you can of course stock up from online sources. Esbit stoves leave a residue on your cookware and produce fumes, and as I prefer cleaner or more natural burning fuel alternatives, my experience with Esbit or other hexamine stoves is limited, but I can see the appeal for emergency or backup usage. Some ultralight backpackers however find Esbit fuel appealing for its simplicity and light weight. Esbit stoves, like the Esbit Titanium Stove are small, light, simple, and easily carried. Many backpackers would consider alcohol, wood, and solid fuel tablet stoves alternative fuel stoves. Final Thoughts As with nearly any other backpacking gear category, there may be no best backpacking stove, but hopefully the above information can assist with determining which option(s) would work best for you. While I own them all, these days my general approach is to take an upright canister stove (the Soto WindMaster) for 3 season use. Only when needed in very cold weather or anytime melting snow will be needed will I reach for an inverted canister stove. That same inverted canister stove – the MSR WindPro II, would work just fine in the summer as well if the extra weight wasn’t a concern. But whether you go with a one stove to do it all approach or like to mix and match to specifically meet the needs of the excursion at hand, any backpacking stove should ideally be durable, reliable, and have the ability to heat water and cook your cuisine of choice in a reasonable amount of time, and through whatever conditions will be encountered during a trip. For a full list of backpacking stoves that you can sort by fuel type and many of the points discussed in this article, check out this page at REI.com.

On any hiking or backpacking trip, the ability to procure drinking water during the hike is one of the most important logistical considerations for both pre-trip planning as well as while we’re on the trail. Finding the water is of course the first step, and having the necessary gear to properly process the water so it’s suitable to drink is the second part of the equation. Here we’ll look at the main types of water filters and backcountry water treatment methods that are best suited for backpacking and hiking, and elaborate on the necessary reading between the lines that needs to be done when choosing the best backpacking water filters or treatment options for backcountry use. An assortment of various types of backcountry water treatment options Backpacking & Hiking Water Treatment: What We Need to Treat & Filter Microorganisms and Biological Concerns While protozoan concerns such as giardia and cryptosporidium get the most publicity, concerns are best looked at in a categorical fashion. Starting with biological contaminants from smallest to largest, viruses (example: hepatitis, rotavirus, often smaller than .1 micron) are notoriously difficult to filter as they can slip through most common filter’s pore size. Luckily, viruses are mostly a concern where there are many other people – for example where you might find untreated sewage. However, it’s always important to remember the source of the water you’re filtering. Bacteria (example: E.Coli, Salmonella, average size greater than .3 microns) are a more common concern in the wilderness as they are spread by both humans and wildlife, but luckily they are larger than viruses and more easily captured by most common filters. Protozoa are a bit larger and include cryptosporidium and giardia, and a filter that will filter to 1 micron or smaller is recommended for removal. Concerns that are larger still include tapeworm eggs and unsightly, but not necessarily dangerous, critters of various types in your water such as insect larvae. On many occasions I’ve scooped water from crystal clear mountain streams and upon close inspection, have been quite surprised at what that scoop reveals to the eye – from sticks and stones to tadpoles and worms of various types – not to mention what you can’t see. I prefer to get my calories from my food bag while backpacking, and luckily these larger organisms are of course, very easily filtered. Water sources will vary in purity, but various types of backcountry water treatment and filtration methods are available and can be utilized. Each method offers pros and cons, and I often prefer to use methods / technologies in combination depending on the trip. Other Treatment Considerations Many other components can make up the water you’re drinking in the backcountry as well. Chemicals, pesticides and herbicides, heavy metals, tannins, silt, taste and odor, as well as natural particulates of various types will need to be considered. Some of these concerns will only affect smell and taste, others could affect your health. Visible suspended matter is removed by most filters, but tannins and taste / smell can pass through – in my experience even drinking tea colored water however, has been fine. If your water source is downstream of an area that has seen prior or active agricultural or mining use for example, chemicals and other various components introduced by man could be in the water source, especially as you move further downstream in the water supply chain. To reduce these types of contaminants and concerns we can utilize a purifier or filter that contains a carbon stage, or add a carbon element or step to an existing setup to assist in reducing many of these possible impurities. Physical Backpacking & Hiking Water Filters / Purifiers Most water treatment products designed for backcountry use that are reasonably lightweight, will not address all of the above concerns in one fell swoop. Thus, we need to evaluate our backpacking and hiking destinations, as well as our own personal comfort level to find the best compromise. For backpacking in the mountainous wilderness areas of the United States for example, the general consensus is that viruses are usually not of a great concern, and many times our water sources are fairly pure from man-made pollution as we’re getting it close to the source. In these cases bacteria and protozoa are usually the main concerns. Other backcountry trips may find us filtering water on the banks of a river far from the source, that has passed through many towns before we consume it, perhaps on foreign soil, and the full gamut of contaminants are more of a possibility. Water filters do just what they say; they filter the water to a certain micron level to remove bacteria and protozoa. Water purification by definition, including options like the First Need XLE will take this all a step further by also removing viruses, though not all products that are officially listed as purifiers will remove or reduce chemicals, heavy metals, tannins, debris, etc. – your water may be purified by marketing general standards, but it will not necessarily be “pure”. A classic pump filter works well for pulling water out of hard to reach and shallow sources. Popular water filters for backcountry water treatment should filter to an absolute pore size of .3 microns or smaller for adequate removal of bacteria, protozoa, and all things larger. Note the absolute part of the pore size equation, as filters listed with a “nominal” pore size will only on average filter to that level. Absolute is a guarantee, and is the number we’re actually interested in. If you prefer viral protection, you will need an option with a much smaller absolute pore size; as a result flow rate will likely suffer and these types of purifiers are rare. Alternatively some filters combine with other technology to treat the virus part using an iodine or ion exchange process. Backpacking water purifiers that remove viruses physically are rare but can be found in the MSR Guardian pump purifier. Other options combine a normal filter with a cartridge that contains an iodinated resin for added virus protection, while the Grayl purifier uses an ion exchange process to achieve this goal. Physical filtration can be achieved utilizing various types of elements and technologies. The most popular lightweight water filter technology today, hollow fiber filters work by passing water through a multitude of small tubes; tubes that are perforated by many, many, pores so small (rated to the micron) that anything larger than this pore size cannot pass through, trapping any living organisms or non-living matter larger than the pore size. Hollow fiber filters are popular for their light weight and versatility – you can pretty much find one in any filter configuration you prefer – be that as a gravity filter, inline filter, or pump. Hollow Fiber Filtration Hollow fiber filters can usually be backflushed to help restore flow rate, and flow rate will vary depending on pore size, surface area, and use. The most popular hollow fiber filters are in the .1 to .2 micron range making them sufficient for bacteria and protozoa, and this micron level is usually a good balance of protection, sufficient flow rate, and lifespan. Smaller micron, virus-rated filters also exist in this category as seen with the aforementioned MSR Guardian purifier, but flow rate will be slower due to the smaller pore size. Gravity filters, an example shown here using hollow fiber filter technology, use the force of gravity to move water through the filter. Hollow fiber filters cannot be allowed to freeze when wet (the MSR Guardian is an exception) or after they've been used, so on trips where it will freeze at night you’ll need to sleep with the filter in your sleeping bag or carry it in your pocket any time temperatures begin to flirt with freezing during the day – this goes for nearly all other filters using different types of elements as well. In addition to freezing, physical filters also need to be treated with some care in regards to drops and impacts, which could damage the element. Some hollow fiber filters like the Platypus GravityWorks (read our full GravityWorks review here), and the Katadyn BeFree have manufacturer supported integrity tests which are very helpful for a little peace of mind – unlike other gear, you can’t really tell if a filter is working properly or not, without this test. Ceramic Media Other types of physical filter media will use a ceramic element like the MSR EX filter, and the Katadyn Pocket Filter, or utilize a glass fiber element like the venerable Katadyn Hiker Pro. Ceramic filters have the ability to be repeatedly field cleaned. Some filters are entirely self-contained and will need to be thrown away when their flow rate diminishes too much to be of practical use, while others setups will have a replaceable cartridge that fits into a housing. Approaches to Filtering in the Field No matter what filter technology you end up going with, physical filters are most often utilized in an inline, gravity, squeeze, or pump configuration. The traditional pump water filter requires you to pump the water through the filter element via a hose in the water source, and is a proven setup at both getting you water and providing an ample upper body workout. Pump filters have moving parts and increase the complication and weight, but these are also great for pulling water out of hard to reach places. The other methods will require you to fill some type of reservoir with dirty water first, by either submerging the dirty water container or bag in the water source or, if it’s one of those shallow or small sources you occasionally may need to use a separate vessel to fill the dirty container, like a mug (boil later to sterilize). An inline water filter connected to a hydration setup treats water as you drink. Gravity setups like the Platypus GravityWorks and the Katadyn Gravity BeFree let gravity do the work for you, by filling a dirty reservoir with water and by elevating, hanging from a tree branch or rock if possible, water passes through the filter element into a clean container. Inline setups such as the MSR Thru-Link splice into the tubing of your hydration reservoir and your own drinking force filters the water with each sip, while with squeeze setups like the Sawyer Squeeze, you can utilize a combination of gravity and squeezing force to move the dirty water through the filter and the filtered water into a clean vessel or drink directly. Other options integrate the filter into a water bottle (LifeStraw Go Series) or softbottle (BeFree), where much in the same manner as an inline filter with a hydration reservoir, your drinking or a combination of drinking and squeezing is what filters the water as you go. Straw type options like the Lifestraw Peak (view at REI) are also another strategy, treating water by directly inserting one end into a water source and drinking from the other side of the straw. A straw filter is limited in that you cannot process larger volumes of water and each sip takes more work, and straw filters are perhaps best reserved more for emergency usage. In whatever case, seek out the cleanest water possible to prolong the life of your filter and for the best flow rate. While many filters can be backflushed or cleaned, this is usually a losing battle over time. Although filters are rated by the gallon or liter in regards to their lifespan, and while it’s a great idea to evaluate this when choosing a filter, take this number with a grain of salt. Clean water is important for other treatment methods as well; in very turbid situations it’s a good idea to allow water to settle in a separate container (in for example, a Sea to Summit Bucket), then treat from the top. Luckily, this is more of the exception than the norm for most of us. Backcountry UV Water Treatment Ultraviolet treatment options like those offered by Steripen, come in various forms using either normal or rechargeable batteries, and utilize, as with many municipalities, UV light from a special lamp that’s inserted into your water container to neutralize many microorganisms by disrupting their DNA. This process usually takes about a minute and you’ll most likely be treating a liter of water or so at a time. Some other UV bottles have come (and gone) to / from the market that feature an integrated lamp, and yet others have been designed to float from the surface of your water vessel. UV water treatment uses battery powered ultraviolet light that's inserted in a container to treat many microorganisms. On the plus side, these UV treatment options are quite effective at neutralizing the things that physical filters have the toughest time with – viruses – and the technology is proven. However, many are not comfortable relying on an electronic and potentially fragile instrument for their main or only wilderness water treatment source. Additionally, UV light on its own is not sufficient for neutralizing all living organisms that could be present in your water – tapeworm eggs for example, or larger organisms and larvae that may or may not do any harm but may not necessarily be what you want to ingest, nor will a UV product remove anything from the water or improve its composition. If the water is dirty, you’ll be drinking dirty water. Steripen offers a filter with a 40x40 micron mesh screen that can help here, which is intended to reduce organic matter or particulates. Performance may also be insufficient in murky water, requiring pre-filtration. All said, this is an excellent technology as long as you’re aware of the limitations; I utilize a Steripen Adventurer Opti as a secondary treatment with a hollow fiber filter on any trip where I desire viral treatment. Chemical Water Treatment Chemical treatment usually utilizing chlorine dioxide (Aquamira) or Iodine (Potable Aqua) and on occasion some other chemicals like household bleach or other chemicals that produce chlorine, like Aquatabs can be effective, but like anything this category has its share of pros and cons. In contrast to physical filters and like UV treatment, chemicals are again effective against viruses, but often take longer (hours) to work on such concerns as cryptosporidium (4 hours) and these products will add a taste to your water; other products are not suitable for cryptosporidium whatsoever. Advocates for chemical treatments praise the ease of just adding the treatment right into their water bottles and allowing the treatment to take place as they hike. To be honest, most of my thought goes into making sure my drinking water source is either free of any chemicals or how to reduce or remove them should there be any chance of them being present, so chemical treatment is a bit counter-productive from my point of view, and options like iodine are not an option for pregnant women or those with any type of a thyroid issue. Iodine and chlorine (i.e. bleach) on their own, are not effective against cryptosporidium. However, this method is lightweight and over the years has been popular with ultralight backpackers, though decreasing in recent years with the increased availability of very light hollow fiber filters like the Sawyer Mini. In this category, other devices have seen the market over the years that create a solution with salt to create an oxidant solution that you subsequently dissolve in water; but as with other chemical treatments, with a 4 hour wait time these are not the quickest of options. An example can be found in the discontinued MSR MIOX. These devices seem to come and go from the market. Chemical treatment may also be integrated with some filters to move them into the purifier category. As with boiling, chemical treatment can be a good backup to bring as well or to utilize in conjunction with other methods. Hundreds of miles from the source, I took extra steps in my treatment process at this backcountry location. Boiling Boiling water is an excellent way to neutralize microorganisms that might be present, but it takes a while, requires a lot of fuel, and let’s be honest, on a hot summer day, who wants to drink steaming hot water when we could be drinking that crisp and cold water from a mountain stream? As such, boiling can be tough to utilize as a main water treatment method on most 3 season backpacking trips, but it’s an excellent method to keep in mind as a backup method should your filter or other method fail you. In winter however, melting snow for water may be your best and only option. Be sure to bring a big pot (my Evernew 1.3 works well solo) and a stove that will work well during continued usage in cold conditions like the MSR WindPro II – read our WindPro II review here. Opinions on how long to boil water vary widely; the CDC suggests bringing water to a rolling boil for 1 minute, or for 3 full minutes at altitudes above 6562 feet (be sure to check that 2 on the end of your altimeter!). Data suggests however that pathogens are neutralized at lower temperatures; in the end it depends on heat and time but luckily, both are achieved by bringing your water to a boil and after removal from heat. Carbon Filtration As we’ve seen, the technologies used above are all mainly designed to thwart microorganisms. If improving the taste and smell of your water, or if any agricultural and / or industrial contamination is a concern, look for a system that integrates filtration technology combined with a carbon stage that will improve and / or reduce, but not necessarily eliminate, these concerns. If desired, a carbon element can be integrated into an existing system using a modular approach to filter water further. This will increase the weight of your system, and possibly the cost of replacement elements, etc., but there is of course no free lunch. The Grayl UltraPress and Katadyn Hiker Pro are all examples of filters with integrated carbon filtration – or if you’re like me and have settled on a treatment method that does not address this concern, but you may occasionally head out on a trip where some of these concerns would be nice to cover, you can always splice in an add-on carbon element (I use an add on GravityWorks Carbon Element) for this purpose when needed. My Approach to Backcountry Water Treatment For a complicated issue, there are unfortunately no one size fits all solutions and in the end, when we’re concerned about not carrying extra weight, it all comes down to a compromise and what each one of us is most interested in removing from our water. Luckily there are many lightweight and effective options out there to choose from. For general backpacking we should expect to find an option that will treat what we’re concerned with for around a pound or less. About half a pound is usually doable, and lighter options of just a few ounces are very realistic to target. The best backpacking water filter or water treatment method very much depends on the task at hand. Most of my trips are very well served by standard hollow fiber filtration technology; as with all of us most likely, my preference is to backpack into areas where the water is already fairly good. As such I’m not usually concerned about viruses or pollution, (both a Steripen and carbon filter have a spot in the gear room for such destinations to use in conjunction with a hollow fiber filter), and I like to target the removal of bacteria, protozoa, and the removal of larger critters no matter their parasitical intent or lack thereof. The hollow fiber filter also has that added benefit of giving your water a good scrub; removing particulate matter. I really like a filter that has a manufacturer supported integrity test as well, so it essentially comes down to the cartridge for me. The Platypus GravityWorks cartridge fits all of the above criteria, and it just so happens the whole setup it comes with works well and is pretty darn convenient to use both on the trail as well as in camp. For a complete list of backcountry-ready, tried and tested backpacking water filters and treatment methods that you can sort and filter by all the main points we’ve discussed in this post, check out this page at REI.

While we can hope that a good forecast holds or we luck out and enjoy blue sunny skies on our next backpacking trip, inevitably a trip will fall during a stretch of rainy weather – and we all know that good forecasts don’t always work out quite as planned. Rainy weather adds a new set of challenges a hiker must prepare for, and when chilly weather is added to the equation you have some of the most challenging weather conditions a backpacker will face. But whether it’s afternoon mountain showers or a multi-day early fall cold front that greets us, with the proper attitude, approach, and the right set of gear a rainy day – or even a string of them – can be dealt with on the trail without a cloud hanging over the trip. Comfortably backpacking in the rain and keeping your gear dry relies on a complete system of gear and a combination of strategies on the trail. Rain Gear on the Trail More important than staying dry, it’s important to stay warm – but to some extent staying dry and warm go hand in hand. Rain gear is the first part of the equation. Various options exist from ponchos than offer great ventilation all on their own and no matter the breathability level of the fabric, but the standard rain jacket and pants combo is the most popular option. Some hikers will also utilize an ultralight umbrella to assist both in the sun and in the rain. You can spend just about as little or as much as you want on rain gear – either way, you’ll want to go with some sort of waterproof breathable fabric. For more on the different types of layering technologies used in rain gear, check out our article on rain gear layer construction. No matter how high tech, if it’s waterproof breathability is always limited, and I’ve found that some type of direct venting is always a desirable feature in any rain jacket. This can be found in the form of underarm pit zips or vents, and while a pullover jacket will save weight, a full zip rain jacket allows for a huge front vent to open and close during off and on rain showers. Vents aren’t common on rain pants, but lower body sweat is not as much of a concern as with your upper body. Underneath your rain jacket and pants a light wool or synthetic layer will wick sweat away and reduce any clammy feeling. You want something that will also dry quickly here. These clothing items can be from your normal clothing rotation – find our full 3-season backpacking clothing guide here. Any rain jacket should have a good hood with a visor to keep the rain out of your face: combining rain jacket hoods with a baseball style hat underneath helps in this regard even more. One thing to keep in mind is that unless you’re headed to the rainforest during monsoon season, your rain gear will frequently be stowed away in your pack and not even in use. Thus it’s a great idea to keep your selection light in weight. In the lightweight range of waterproof breathable rainwear we often have two choices: either cheap and light but not so durable, or light and sufficiently durable but not so easy on the wallet. Obviously, it’s your call and either approach works on the trail. Easier on the budget, the Frogg Toggs lineup is a great option to check out, and on the higher end of the scale, many great options can be found such as the Outdoor Research Helium lineup as well as the Zpacks Vertice line, etc., and for a mid range the Marmot Precip range remains popular. Hands are one area that can often be overlooked and they’ll quickly become chilled on cool rainy days. An ultralight pair of rain mitts is very welcome in such weather. Unfortunately, mainstream options are limited when it comes to ultralight rain mitts and many options seem to come and go from the market. One currently available option can be found in the REI Co-op Minimalist GTX Mitts. From late spring to early fall feet can often just get wet and this can often be easier than trying to keep feet dry through rain, stream crossings, and puddles. Lightweight, non-waterproof mesh trail running shoes dry reasonably fast once the sun comes back out, and just make sure you have a pair of dry socks in your pack for camp and the sleeping bag. Merino wool socks like Darn Tough's Light Hiker socks help with wet shoes: merino wool remains comfortable when wet, feels warmer, and is less abrasive than many synthetic options – this all means warmer toes and fewer blisters. In colder conditions using a vbl setup or using a waterproof breathable mid height boot and gaiters are other options...I find that my feet will stay warm however on the move when backpacking on most days and even in cool conditions, as long you keep moving to generate heat and the precipitation remains in liquid form and not snow and ice. Whatever rain gear you take, keep it in an outside pocket of your pack for easy access during the day. Keeping Your Gear Dry on Rainy Days Most backpacks are only water resistant at best or will leak through the seams and as the fabric wears. Thus, additional waterproofing is required for packed gear. A waterproof pack liner is one popular approach, as are waterproof stuff sacks. My preference has always been the pack liner approach. As it also inflates my sleeping pad, I use an Exped Schnozzel currently, and a simple trash compactor bag is a great budget option, simply twist the top to seal it up. Other large pack liner size dry bags are another option. One great thing about the pack liner approach is that your need-to-stay-dry clothing items and sleeping bag will conform to the space in your pack making for a more comfortable carry. The other option is to use dry bags like the Sea to Summit eVent dry bags. As long as the solution is waterproof – testing at home suggested as not all dry bags are created equal – you are good to go. Another tool that can be used, although not one I utilize, is a pack cover. For any items that cannot get wet – from electronics to paper maps, double zip Ziploc bags in the appropriate size are a great and cost efficient way to waterproof your gear from rain (not suited for underwater use). For critical items, I do like to only use this as part of a multi-prong approach however. For example, I will keep my camera in a Ziploc on rainy days, but this is also stored in a waterproof chest pack with a water-resistant zipper (ZPacks Multi-Pack). This double layer approach ensures things stay dry. For a double layer approach when the waterproof pack isn’t an option, small roll top dry bags like the Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil dry bags are a good choice for phones, cameras, etc. – for more on this sub topic, see our full article on how to keep your backpacking gear dry. Once you get to camp on a rainy day, it's important to keep your sleeping gear dry and maintain the warmth you generated while hiking. In Camp Once in camp, your body can get chilled quickly as your activity level drops. It’s much easier to stay warm than warm back up, so setting up a shelter and getting into dry clothing and your down or synthetic jacket before the hiking heat wears off is a top priority. Once changed into dry socks, putting your feet into soaking wet cold shoes is not a preferred experience – some ultralight camp shoes – plastic bags over your dry socks – will keep your socks dry and your feet warm for basic tasks around camp even in those wet shoes. During and after rain condensation can be an issue inside a tent at night, so select a shelter that has good ventilation and plenty of space for you to sleep – on top of a potentially thick inflatable sleeping pad if you use one – without your sleeping bag contacting the walls of your shelter. While nearly any bag can deal with a night of condensation and still keep you warm, if this is a multi-day rain event where the bag doesn’t have time to dry out loft can begin to become affected – turning that 20 degree bag into a 40 degree bag quickly. For the tent itself I also keep a packable towel on hand in the tent for condensation during the night and to wipe the tent down before packing up in the morning – this also saves weight. If the sun does happen to come out, it can offer an opportunity to take a break and dry some gear. Down vs. Synthetics For camp and when it comes to insulating jackets and your sleeping bag or quilt, down or synthetics can both work. Synthetics will deal with the additional moisture better than down as well as dry faster, and may be a good choice if you frequently backpack in areas of high precipitation. However, even untreated down can work very well and either way all attempts should be made to keep your insulation dry no matter which fill you choose. I find that even in multi-day rain events, down jackets stay quite dry as they’re constantly being dried out by your body heat. Down bags seem to accumulate more moisture over time and especially in cramped shelters with condensation. Many backpackers will go one or the other – for example down for a bag and synthetic for their jacket or vice-versa; if your gear does get wet take advantage of any break in the clouds you get during the day to dry things out trailside. For more in-depth coverage of these considerations, see our guide on down vs. synthetic backpacking gear. While rain might not be the backpacking weather we'd choose if we had a choice, with the proper gear and strategy and when embraced, it can offer a unique perspective. Stay Fueled Lastly, it’s important to stay well-fueled on rainy days – these are the days you definitely want to reach for that favorite dinner you’ve been saving in the bottom of your food bag and the times you’ll want to reach for that extra snack during the hiking day. Not only will this help you stay warm, but it will lift your spirits as well and definitely help with the mental aspect and challenges of hiking on rainy days…after all, once the gear and technique is all set, the rest comes down to how you approach it above the shoulders. Backpacking in the Rain: Final Thoughts Keeping a glass half full mentality when hiking in the rain goes a long way toward successful hiking days and honestly, some of the most memorable hikes and best scenery I’ve ever seen has come when the clouds finally break after a soggy day to reveal a sunset to remember – and just like a week of backpacking makes that burger and fries taste that much better when you leave the trail, a rainy day seems to have the same effect for those great moments in the wilderness. Like Steinbeck said, “What good is the warmth of summer, without the cold of winter to give it sweetness”. Rainy day backpacking and hiking is similar in that regard – and luckily waiting out a rainy day doesn’t require the same type of patience as does an entire season. Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 38 of TrailGroove Magazine. Read the original article here for additional photos.

Released in spring of 2025, the Mountain House Cheesy Beef Enchilada Bowl is a backpacking meal that offers another form of Mexican food for dinner while backpacking, in addition to the excellent Adobo Rice & Chicken meal that Mountain House released a few years prior (our review). The new Mountain House Cheesy Beef Enchilada meal boasts 660 calories (on the high side for Mountain House pouches) and is suitable for a gluten free diet. The meal is based around beef, corn tortillas (an interesting ingredient in a freeze-dried meal), cheese, an enchilada sauce, rice, black beans, and corn. This meal requires 1.5 cups of boiling water and a longer (for Mountain House meals) 15 minutes of rehydration time. Once the meal has rehydrated, you’re looking at a rather soupy, rather monotone consistency. However, this is a meal that despite first impressions really brings the flavor. Meal Impressions Upon diving into the meal, at least taste wise, you do really get the fully enchilada experience here. Spicy at first but tolerable by most palates, and with a smoky note dominating throughout the course of the meal, Mountain House has really brought the enchilada flavor to this meal – in fact flavor wise it’s a perfect match. And in case you haven’t inferred by now, as long as you like enchiladas the flavor is very good, great in fact. That said, a few things do seem to keep this meal from achieving perfection. Consistency wise it seems as though some improvement could be made – while the meal does firm up a bit the end consistency is more like a hearty dip, and to be honest if you had a bag of corn chips and a pouch or two of this meal you might even be able to throw a party. Additionally, it surprised me that while beef is the first ingredient, it’s not all that detectable. I feel that larger chunks of beef may have been a good addition here. The corn tortilla flavor is there as the second ingredient, but again any texture isn’t assertive. Aside from providing a separate bag of tortillas strips or chips inside the pouch to finish the meal with however, it is hard to imagine what else Mountain House could have done here. Rice is present in the meal and it was appreciated that it’s not the number one ingredient, as many backpacking dinner meals can turn into a nightly monotonous routine of rice, with…you name it. Perhaps extra black beans and / or corn (present in this meal but in smaller quantities) may have also helped with texture. Lastly, for a cheesy enchilada the cheese is noticeable, but it’s hard to have too much cheese for a cheesy enchilada meal. Overall it’s hard to complain with this meal however. Conclusion In the future, I think I’ll probably add some additional cheese and finish with some corn chips to add some crunch when it comes to this meal and call it good. The base is certainly there and overall, this meal has one of the best flavor profiles in the Mountain House lineup that will likely be a welcome addition to my food bag on upcoming trips as long as the meal is offered. You can find the new Mountain House Cheesy Beef Enchilada meal here at Amazon.com as well as here at Mountain House. Editor's Note: This meal review originally appeared in Issue 58 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

Since my sister Melissa retired, we have taken several hiking, backpacking, and photography trips together. This time, we headed to Colorado and New Mexico for another adventure. Melissa has wanted to hike to Wheeler Peak for years. I’ve wanted to see the Wheeler Geologic Area for years. So, we combined the two desires into one awesome trip – The Tale of Two Wheelers. Wheeler Geologic Area We started off early on the morning of July 5th and headed west across Oklahoma, experiencing a spectacular sunrise out of the rear-view mirrors on the way. We camped our first night in the Spanish Peaks area of southern Colorado, then the next morning, we headed to Hanson’s Mill near Creede. The road to Hanson’s Mill (apparently the site of an old lumber mill no longer in existence) is fairly well graded and accessible by most vehicles. The area at the end of this road has several campsites, but it is a fairly open sun-drenched area (due to dead trees having been cut and removed), with only a few scattered standing trees. The only facilities here are a vault-type toilet, a few picnic tables and fire rings, but no water or refuse receptacles. Beyond Hanson’s Mill, the route (Forest Road #600) quickly deteriorates into a one-lane, rough, rocky four-wheel drive, high clearance road for 14 miles. It took us about 2 ½ hours (with a few photo stops) to arrive at the end of the road at the trailhead for Wheeler Geologic Area. There is an 8-mile long hiking trail (Trail #790) that begins at Hanson’s Mill, which would be the alternate way to the geologic area if you don’t have a car capable of the rough 14 mile drive. The Engelmann spruce forest in this area has been devastated by spruce broom rust (caused by a fungus) and spruce beetle epidemic which has killed vast stands of the spruce. The old forest was already stressed by disease and weakened by extended drought and a warmer climate when the beetles were able to really start their attack. Today, though the epidemic has slowed – killing almost all the trees susceptible to the outbreak – it continues in isolated pockets. Younger trees seem to be healthy, as confirmed by a college-aged forester along the road, to whom we spoke. She described the forest and how the beetles kill the trees, how they are a natural part of the cycle, how climate change has contributed, etc. The forest service has been putting pheromone packets on some trees which signal to the beetles that “this tree is already full” to prevent the beetles from infesting the healthy trees. Eventually, this forest may look better as the older, still-standing dead trees fall and the younger ones grow up, but for now, it is surely sad to see. According to the descriptive signs at the trailhead, 30 to 40 million years ago, lava flows that were nearly 4,000 feet thick covered an area of 9,000 square miles. Then about 29 million years ago, a massive pyroclastic (ash, dust, volcanic rock, and pebbles) eruption engulfed the area, producing large quantities of volcanic ash, also known as tuff. For nearly three million years, thirteen volcanoes covered the area with up to 3,000 feet of ash. Subsequent erosion has exposed this ash, resulting in the spectacular scenery of the area. At the end of the rough road, there are several dispersed camping sites in the fields and woods at the parking and turn around point (in this area there seemed to be fewer dead trees), and we chose a spot and set up camp. We then loaded up our day packs and began our hike, which begins at an elevation of 10,840 feet. We hiked the Wheeler Loop counterclockwise, with a side hike out to Halfmoon Pass, then back down to the Wheeler Loop and on around the loop. Coming from 1,200 feet with very little time to acclimate to the elevation, we found it to be a very strenuous hike, especially me. At the top of the pass, there was a small patch of snow, so we took photos of each other throwing snowballs. As we continued, we finally arrived at the reason we were there in the first place – the bizarre eroded rocks of volcanic ash. The actual area isn’t huge, but it is quite spectacular. The light-colored volcanic tuff has been eroded into spires, steep cliffs, towers, castle-like shapes, and, if you use your imagination, goblins and gnomes. We almost got there too late – the area faces west, but is partly blocked by some higher cliffs to the west. When we arrived, the sun was getting low and parts of the ash layers were already in shadow. We still got some good photos, but if I were to do it again, I would take the hike clockwise and see the formations first. Our hike here was 6 ½ miles long with around 1,800 feet of climbing. Over the next few days we visited the town of Creede, hiked to several waterfalls in the area, drove on some crazy 4wd roads, went to Crested Butte to see the wildflowers (Wildflower Capital of Colorado), and then drove south to Red River, New Mexico. Hiking Wheeler Peak For our final hiking day of the trip, we drove to the Taos Ski Area where the trailhead for our Wheeler Peak hike starts. The trailhead is at an elevation of 10,200 feet, and starts off as a fairly wide, well-used trail. It slowly climbs over the first couple of miles to a turnoff to Williams Lake. The lake, at an elevation of 11,040 feet, is a short distance away. We stopped just before the lake for a snack and to take some photos. There were quite a few tents on both sides of the lake and a lot of people on the trail to and from. Having had a week to acclimate to the elevation, this first part was not nearly as difficult as our initial hike at Wheeler Geologic Area. It naturally got more difficult on the hike up to the peak. From the lake, we returned to the intersection and headed up the trail to Wheeler Peak. The trail starts off in dense woods where we heard and saw numerous birds. As you climb higher, the trail finally gets above the treeline, and views open up. From the trail, the destination peak is visible, as well as some of the switchbacks yet to be climbed, the Taos ski runs, and several other nearby peaks. And below, in the distance, we spotted Williams Lake several times – those tents looked very tiny from this distance and elevation! After leaving the woods, the switchbacks happen more often and the trail gets steeper. In several spots the trail crosses large scree fields (broken chunks of rock of various sizes that have tumbled from above and settled on the slope), which are places we had to be extra careful so we didn’t twist an ankle or fall. The last quarter mile, just before you arrive on a ridgeline, is the steepest with dust, sand, and small gravel on the trail bed. Once on the ridge, it’s a short (and easier) hike to the actual peak. Wheeler Peak stands at an elevation of 13,161 feet. There is a plaque and a register to sign there. When we arrived, there were a dozen or so people on and around the peak, but most were in a group and soon left, leaving us with just a few others. We took the “mandatory peak photos” (thanks random citizen!), had a quick lunch (thunderstorms were brewing in the distance), and then headed down. Going down uses muscles in a whole different way – knees bent, tiny steps so we didn’t slip, and constant braking. We had put on jackets up top, but soon stripped them off because of the exertion. We spotted a couple of raptors flying and doing high-speed dives at one point (we heard the whoosh of the air past the feathers of one). The rest of the hike down was uneventful. We arrived back at the car, quite tired but satisfied by this epic hike. The hike was a total of 9.4 miles round trip with 3,094 feet climbed and descended. It took us 6 ½ hours to complete the hike. The next day, our drive home was long but uneventful. This was a great trip, and we saw so much! Waterfalls, mountains, rivers, mountain lakes, rough roads, and enough scenery to make us quite content (for a while). On top of that, we accomplished two long-term wish list items and took hundreds of photos. Let’s go do another! Need to Know Information There are no fees or permits required for either of these hikes. Driving to Wheeler Geologic Are requires a high clearance vehicle, preferably with four wheel drive (although we did see a Subaru Crosstrek along the way (I wouldn’t recommend it). Camping at the end of Forest Road 600 is limited to first come, first serve. Parking for Wheeler Peak is at the Taos Ski Valley. There are a couple of other longer hikes to Wheeler Peak, with different parking locations. Getting There Wheeler Geologic Area is near Creede, Colorado. From Creede, travel southeast on Colorado Highway 149 for 7.3 miles, to the intersection of Colorado Highway 149 and Forest Road #600 (Pool Table Road), then approximately 9.5 miles northwest on Pool Table Road #600 to Hanson’s Mill. From here, a high-clearance 4wd vehicle is needed to continue the 14 miles to the Wheeler Geologic Area Trailhead. Wheeler Peak is north of Taos, New Mexico. From Taos, travel approximately 4 miles north on US HWY 64 from Taos to the junction of NM State HWY 150, then east on HWY 150 to Taos Ski Valley. Continue through the Taos Ski Valley parking lot, veering left up Twining Road. Twining Road is approximately 2 miles long and contains several switchbacks. It will be fine for most vehicles in the summer and fall (4x4 in winter). Follow signs for the Williams Lake Trailhead and the Bavarian Lodge and Restaurant. Park at the large parking lot on the right as the road levels off (this parking area is before the Bavarian). Best Time to Go Both of these places are late spring to summer to early fall destinations, typically best from May or June through October. Both can experience thunderstorms (particularly in summer) with lightning, usually in the afternoon. Maps Trails Illustrated 139 La Garita Cochetopa Hills as well as Trails Illustrated 730 Taos Wheeler Peak. For getting to and from trailheads and exploring other hiking opportunities in the region see the Delorme Colorado Atlas & Gazetteer as well as their New Mexico Atlas. Editor's Note: This article by contributor Steve Ancik originally appeared in Issue 58 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

Issue 59 of TrailGroove Magazine is now available! Click the preceding link or the cover below to take a look: In This Issue: Jargon: HYOH Trail News Trail Tip: Find Yourself First Hovenweep National Monument Spatsizi Plateau Wilderness Provincial Park Altra Lone Peak 9+ Review Gear Mash Alpine Aire Chicken Jambalaya Review Double Crossed in the Grand Canyon 112 pages dedicated to backpacking and hiking. Special thanks to all of our readers and contributors @Steve Ancik, @Susan Dragoo, @Trish, & @dkim000 for your support and contributions towards the latest issue! If it's your first time viewing the magazine, we suggest starting on Page 1 for online viewing tips and tricks. Prefer to view the magazine in high definition or save it and view it offline? Our HD PDF is also available individually or included with a Premium Membership. Your input is highly appreciated. Let us know what you thought about Issue 59 here on the TrailGroove Forum, or contact us anytime. Thanks for reading!

As one of the most important decisions you can make when it comes to backpacking gear, your choice of a backpacking tent can have quite the impact in regards to your comfort in camp and protection from the elements. Additionally, choosing the best backpacking tent can also have an impact when it comes to weight carried on the trail (as one of, if not the heaviest items in your pack), and a tent decision can have quite the impact on your wallet, as well. With many factors to consider, in this article we’ll look at the top backpacking tents currently on the market, with a preference towards tents that of course offer protection from the elements, but also are lightweight and include plenty of space for the weight (including headroom), while remaining sufficiently durable and easy to use. Additionally preference here leans towards tents that haven’t had any flame or fire retardant chemicals applied, and for tents that are easy to get in and out of and have space to store gear. Best Solo & Ultralight Backpacking Tents For solo use I look to save just about as much weight as possible and space is less of a concern – I find a little extra space to be much more useful and important when there’s more than one person sharing a tent. If it’s just me and in this day and age, I’ll look to go with a Dyneema Composite Fabric tent every time and will look for an ultralight tent under the 20 ounce mark or so. Previously my choice has been the (discontinued) Zpacks Hexamid Twin, which while designed for two was much more workable for one person having only a single side door and one vestibule. This tent however still only weighed around a pound. An ultralight Dyneema Composite Fabric tent from Zpacks Luckily there are modern-day alternatives available from Zpacks via their Plex Solo tent ($599, 14.5 oz.) as well as their Altaplex Solo tent ($669, 16.5 oz.), with the Altaplex being designed for taller hikers. I like a rectangular, non-tapering floorplan whenever I can get it no matter what tent I’m looking at, and as such the Altaplex would be an intriguing ultralight option. That said for those using standard-width pads who want the lightest pack, the Plex Solo and the Plex Solo Lite tent (a Plex Solo tent option featuring more ultralight materials and further weight savings) are equally interesting choices. With the solo tent category one door and one vestibule work great, as can be found in the tent designs discussed above. However, especially for those that backpack with a wide pad and like space, the Duplex Lite tent ($669, 14.9 oz.) should be given strong consideration. The Duplex Lite is also an option for 2 with standard-width pads, who want to save as much weight as possible and don’t mind bumping elbows. Regardless of which Zpacks tent you go with, I’d suggest at least considering their .75 oz. canopy material over the default .55 oz. Dyneema. I’ve used the .55 oz. material for years without issue – it’s not a bad default material and my tents have withstood years of use and severe weather. However, future DCF tents that I purchase will likely be of the .75 oz. variety just for all-around insurance. The .75 oz. material will be stronger and offer greater puncture resistance, which may be appreciated over the long haul and when you need it, without too much of a weight penalty. As you might have guessed, Zpacks offering buyers the choice of this fabric option is one reason their tents are recommended so highly in this article. Note that as you might expect, their "Lite" tents are not offered in this heavier duty fabric, but are still worth consideration as the lightest of the light. However, if you’re not sold on Dyneema and prefer a more traditionally-designed tent, one that does stand out in this category can be found in the NEMO Hornet Elite Osmo 1-Person tent ($580, 29 oz.). With 39” of headroom this tent may not be the most ideal choice for the tallest of users, but this height is on par with other tents in the more traditional, double-walled and freestanding (or semi-freestanding) tent market. At less than 2 pounds this tent will not weigh you down and can even fit a rectangular large and wide sleeping pad. If you’re looking to save some cash, NEMO also offers a standard version of the Hornet Osmo, which still comes in at a respectable weight with slightly smaller interior dimensions. Summary: Best Solo & Ultralight Tents Zpacks Plex Solo Standard Zpacks Altaplex Classic Zpacks Plex Solo Lite Zpacks Duplex Lite NEMO Hornet Osmo Elite NEMO Hornet Osmo Standard In summary if you’re looking for a Dyneema Composite Fabric (DCF) ultralight or solo tent and are open to a non-traditional design, Zpacks offers an excellent choice of floorplans and overall performance, and with the option of a heavier-duty DCF fabric for durability. For a more traditional design but still in the ultralight category, take a look at the NEMO Osmo series. Best 2-Person Backpacking Tents For a 2-person backpacking tent, I look for 2 doors with side entries and 2 matching vestibules, without question. This allows each person their own entry and exit (no having to crawl over anyone) and their own space to store gear at night. Generally, around 3lbs. or less is a good target here. For many years my go-to option here was the Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo ($395, 45 oz.). This tent features all the prerequisites above, but the weight of their lighter backpacking model (previously known as the Explorer model, and suggested if budget allows over their heavier Lunar Duo Outfitter) has crept up a bit in recent years. The Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo 2-person backpacking tent That said, the Lunar Duo backpacking model is not exactly heavy by any means and is a wonderful design with a 54x90” floorplan. This is one of the best floor measurements for a 2-person tent I’ve ever used. It’s long enough for tall hikers, wide enough for 2 wide pads, and isn’t excessive even with 2 standard pads…extra space is always nice. Additionally, the 45” centered height is great for sitting up in the tent. If at least one hiker uses a shorter pad, you can easily fit 2 people plus a dog or very small child in this tent as well, with gear being stored in the large vestibules. Find our Lunar Duo review here. About the only downside to this tent is that, as with all silnylon / silpoly tents including those to follow from Tarptent, you’ll need to seal the seams with something like SeamGrip SIL seam sealer at home before you head out, although many manufacturers are now offering this as an add-on service. Many backpackers – including myself – have long hoped that Six Moon Designs would come out with a Dyneema Lunar Duo to take things from lightweight to ultralight...we’ll continue to keep our hopes up. With its 90" long floor, the Lunar Duo from Six Moon Designs can fit 2 people with extra room, especially if at least one person utilizes a shorter sleeping pad. For something lighter but significantly more expensive, the Zpacks Duplex tent ($699, 17.9 oz.) or the larger Zpacks Triplex tent ($799, 21.4 oz.) are worth significant consideration. Zpacks tents are made from Dyneema Composite Fabric to save weight and you’ll end up with a tent that won’t sag in the rain like you can get with silnylon. At a 45” floor width, the Duplex will be tight for 2 people and both hikers will have to use standard-width sleeping pads, unless you want to absolutely max out the width of the floor with 1 wide and 1 regular-width sleeping pad…something I don’t recommend. The Triplex however, at a 60” floor width would be extremely tight for 3, but has plenty of room for 2 people with wide pads and room for gear or possibly a dog or small child as well. In the case that you utilize standard-width sleeping pads and are looking for a 2+ person tent, the Zpacks Triplex Pro ($899, 22 oz.) boosts the floor width to 65" to fit up to 3 sleeping pads, but is shorter (at 84") than the standard Triplex. For a 2+ person tent that will fit wide pads, the LightHeart Gear Duo Tent ($340, 36 oz.) with its unique 55x100" floorplan is worth a look and the longer floor makes fitting a dog in much easier. The Zpacks Triplex features a 60" wide floor, offering room for 2 people using wide sleeping pads with room to spare. Mainstream manufacturer Big Agnes makes some interesting tents in their Platinum and Carbon lines that are either freestanding or semi-freestanding, however there are some compromises to be had related to interior space or entry configuration (a side door, even when solo, is preferred). For example the Tiger Wall 2 Platinum tent ($650, 35 oz.) will get you a semi-freestanding tent for 2 using standard-width pads, but the 86” length and 39” peak height combined with a lengthwise sloping ceiling would be cramped for taller users. All said, the Zpacks Triplex (for more see our full Zpacks Triplex review) is a top choice in this category for maximum flexibility (tents only seem smaller in the field). 60” is a bit much, and something close to the width of the Lunar Duo would be closer to perfect for 2. That said, we’re not making a custom tent here and beggars can’t be choosers. For two using wide pads who also have a dog along, the aforementioned LightHeart Duo would be a better fit. Both of these tents feature 2 doors and 2 vestibules. Summary: Best 2-Person Backpacking Tents Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo Outfitter Zpacks Duplex Zpacks Triplex Zpacks Triplex Pro LightHeart Gear Duo Big Agnes Tiger Wall 2 Platinum To summarize, the Zpacks Triplex is our choice in this category, fitting 2 people with wide pads comfortably while the Duplex would be more of an ultralight option for 2 with standard pads, while the LightHeart Duo allows for maximum comfort / room for a dog or gear. The venerable Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo series offers a budget-friendly option with a perfect floor size for two. For a more traditional design, the Big Agnes Platinum tent is worth consideration. Best Family or Group Backpacking Tents There is not much discussion to be had here when it comes to the best group and family backpacking tent, as unfortunately it seems manufacturers pour most of their research and development into their 1 or 2-person tent designs. The Tarptent Hogback ($549, 63.2 oz.) is my choice in this category with few competitors. The Hogback is a 4-person tent that weighs in around 4 pounds and features an 86x86” floorplan that can fit up to 4 standard-width pads, or 3 wide pads, and features double-wall construction with either mesh or partial-solid fabric inner options. 4 people in the Hogback will be a squeeze and you’ll be fighting for vestibule space, but we’ve used it for 3 plus a dog on many occasions. Tarptent Hogback 4-person backpacking tent Although for years Tarptent declined to entertain the idea of making Dyneema Composite Fabric tents, in recent years they began to utilize this weight-saving non-stretch fabric, but it hasn’t made it up the line to the Hogback quite yet (which would save quite a bit of weight in a tent this large). That said, we’ve been quite happy with the silnylon fly utilized in our Hogback and about 4lbs is still quite light for a tent of this size. You can read our full Tarptent Hogback review here. Although more of a backpacking shelter than a tent due to its floorless nature, the Black Diamond Mega Light tent ($500, 45 oz.) is also worth considering in this category and these tents and tents of a similar design have been successfully used by educational expeditions for many years. Depending on where you’re backpacking however, the extra bug and weather protection you get with an integrated floor like you’ll find on the Hogback may be appreciated. There is an optional nest available for the Mega Light; however it more than doubles the weight and almost doubles the price. For a lighter option Hyperlite Mountain Gear offers their UltaMid 4 pyramid ($1440 as a tent, 62 oz. with the floored mesh insert and pole). With either of these shelters you'll need to be aware of some compromises pyramid shelters can have – like a pole in the center of the tent, slanted walls, typically one (relatively) small door for entry and exit, lack of vestibule space, and the possibility of rain getting into the tent when entering and exiting due to the slanted walls. For freestanding options, the Copper Spur UL4 tent ($850, 88 oz.), with its larger (listed) 86x96” floorplan can fit 4 people with a couple of those people using wide pads, and this tent also has an impressive 50” inside height. In our testing getting this tent's floorplan to measure up to specs would be quite a stretch; thus we cannot recommend this tent maxed out with 3X wide pads along with 1 standard width pad. That said the tent will fit 4 people all in the same tent, although you’ll be well over 5lbs. And if the UL4 still isn’t enough space, you can take a look at the 86x108” Copper Spur HV UL5 ($900, 117 oz.) which, as you might expect, is designed for groups of 5 and features 60” – or 5 feet, of headroom. The Copper Spur UL line is typically a leader on the spec sheets – just be aware that to achieve light weight in a traditional design Big Agnes uses very light 15 and 20D fabrics that are lower on the hydrostatic head scale and feature a PU (polyurethane) coating. Coatings are very waterproof and allow manufacturers to tape seams, but coatings wear off, unlike impregnated silicone or Dyneema waterproof fabrics (it would be suggested to use a groundsheet – I use one made of window insulation film). At some point and once the group size gets larger, taking multiple smaller separate tents may make the most sense and can even save weight over a single larger tent – although depending on your tent choice, this can potentially be more expensive. Summary: Best Family or Group Backpacking Tents Tarptent Hogback Black Diamond Mega Light HMG UltaMid 4 Big Agnes Copper Spur UL4 Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL5 For family and group tents the Tarptent Hogback is our choice, if your group will fit. The struts allow for good use of the 86x86” floorplan, but 86x86” is tight as group size approaches 4. The Black Diamond Mega Light and HMG UltaMid4 are pyramid options, which again are great if you fit and if you can deal with the drawbacks of the pyramid design, including inefficient use of floorspace. For more traditional designs, the Copper Spur series should be considered, however care will need to be exercised with the ultralight fabrics utilized. Best Budget Backpacking Tents Budget is relative, but for this category we can go ahead and rule out ultralight Dyneema tents and set our focus on the much more affordable nylon and polyester options. The Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo ($260, 26 oz.) can be had for less with free shipping and a sign-up discount, and if you catch it on sale it can even go for under $200. The Lunar Solo is roomy for one, fitting either standard or wide pads. The REI Co-op Half Dome Series of tents with a 2-person as well as a 3-person option has also been a go-to choice for many years. The REI Co-op Flash Series of tents offer lighter weight options, and can typically be found on sale at intervals throughout the year. The venerable Six Moon Designs Lunar Duo can also be found in their heavier but much cheaper polyester Outfitter Tent version, which will get you a palace for 2 people in a package under 4lbs. for around $200. If you’re looking to save and aren’t too picky on an exact model, checking the REI Co-op Outlet from time to time can lead to some good savings on a variety of tent models from various manufacturers. Summary: Best Budget Backpacking Tents Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo REI Co-op Half Dome Series REI Co-op Flash Series Lunar Duo Outfitter REI Co-op Outlet Tents If you’re looking to save some cash but still want a great tent, the SMD Lunar Solo is a venerable choice in this category for solo use. For two, look to the Lunar Duo Outfitter also from Six Moon Designs. The REI Co-op Half Dome series make for a traditional choice, with the REI Co-op Flash series offering some weight savings, and it’s always worth browsing the REI Co-op Outlet to see what’s on sale. Best 4-Season Backpacking Tents All the tents listed here thus far are primarily targeted towards 3-season use, but if you’re wanting to extend your trips into winter where heavy snow load can be expected and freestanding features become more important, you’ll need to look into 4-season options. The Black Diamond Firstlight 2P ($500, 54 oz.) has been a popular option for solo and 2-person use for years – you can find our full review of the Firstlight 2P tent here. If you like the Firstlight but want a little more space for 2 people, look at the Black Diamond Firstlight 3P ($550, 64 oz.). Black Diamond also offers their Hilight 3P tent, which is very similar to the Firstlight except with upgraded features at a weight penalty. Tarptent Scarp 2 4-season tent For my use, I like the Tarptent Scarp 2 ($489, 56 oz.), however the weight is getting up there with the crossing poles and you’ll need to set a couple snow anchors with this one. For more, take a look at our Tarptent Scarp 2 review. When it comes to 4-season tents and winter backpacking, you don't want to make any compromises in regards to protection from the elements or the sturdiness of your tent, and extra weight carried here is typically worth it. Summary: Best 4-Season Backpacking Tents Black Diamond Firstlight 2P Black Diamond Firstlight 3P Black Diamond Hilight 3P Tarptent Scarp 2 For winter and 4-season usage the Scarp 2 from Tarptent is my choice, be it a solo or 2-person trip. However and as you might expect, Black Diamond has plenty of choices in this category that are among the most popular 4-season tents of all time. Final Thoughts Overall when selecting the best backpacking tent you need to find a balance between weather and bug protection, weight, space, and price – and getting that balance just right will be a little different for each of us. However, with hundreds of options on the market the perfect tent is likely out there for everyone no matter your needs. For more on baseline information and factors to consider when choosing a backpacking tent or shelter, see our guide on how to choose a backpacking tent that goes into tent design and factors to consider on a more overall and general level. For a list of additional backpacking tents to consider from various manufacturers that you can narrow down by capacity, season, and more, check out this page at REI.com.

An important core backpacking gear item, your backpacking sleeping bag needs to be light enough to carry easily, pack small enough so as to not take over your entire pack, and most importantly keep you warm and comfortable at night. In this guide we’ll focus on the best backpacking sleeping bags currently on the market by temperature rating. As this is a backpacking focused article weight of the sleeping bag and warmth to weight ratio will be of a paramount focus here, with down bags ruling the roost. For a basecamp scenario, synthetic bags would be worth consideration. See our guide on down vs. synthetic insulation for more information and background. For the purposes of this article, we will focus on features, weight, and performance. Best 30F+ & Summer Rated Backpacking Sleeping Bags This can be a complicated category with many options. Bags in this range can be very light, but early morning hours can be a bit crisp and ample warmth will be appreciated during the night. My pick hands down would be the Zpacks Classic 30 degree sleeping bag. Weighing in at just 14 ounces and going for $420, this bag is made with DownTek 900 fill power water resistant down and is available in 7 different sizes. Going to a hoodless sleeping bag (I mostly use the Zpacks 20 degree) has changed my backcountry sleeping for the better – now I can turn with the bag, or inside the bag, no matter. Additionally with the zipper on the bottom maximum heat is retained and you have no zipper at the top (leaking the most hot air) no matter if you’re a back sleeper or a side sleeper. In milder conditions above the shoulders just a warm hat works well for me, but if it gets cold at night you can add in an additional goose hood. Traditional top-tier manufacturers include Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering. When it comes to Western Mountaineering, they offer a variety of bags in this category, many that don’t have much difference between each other from a big picture point of view. Their MegaLite 30 degree sleeping bag weighs in at 24 ounces and is a nice option if you like more traditional design features. The MegaLite uses 850 fill down and is a wider bag with a passive draft collar that I’ve found is sufficient down to around freezing. Western Mountaineering bags aren’t cheap – the MegaLite will set you back about $600 – but with proper care these are bags that will last darn near forever. For slimmer users and in warmer conditions one could consider the Western Mountaineering SummerLite (around $500, 19 ounces) – although we’ve found this one starts to take on a chill as temperatures close in towards the freezing mark, it would be ideal for warmer nights. Both the MegaLite and SummerLite from Western Mountaineering feature a fully baffled construction (the bag is not sewn through to create the baffles – a sewn through bag results in a lighter and possibly less expensive construction but will have cold spots when temperatures drop). The Western Mountaineering FlyLite is a newer bag that is an option for warmer weather trips – it’s rated to 36 degrees, weighs just ~14 ounces in a standard width, and retails for just over $500. This makes it the lightest fully baffled bag Western Mountaineering offers. Draft tubes, draft collars, continuous baffles, and so on are not as critical during warmer conditions and their omission can save weight, but I find I've always appreciated these features in the field. Feathered Friends additionally offers top of the line down sleeping bags including the Hummingbird UL 30 ($580, about 22 ounces). This is a narrower bag (saves weight, more efficient) so keep that in mind, but if you’ll fit, as with Western Mountaineering this 950 fill power down bag is expensive but worth it. For women Feathered Friends offers their Egret UL 30 ($570, about 24 ounces) with an even narrower cut but in a more women’s-specific shape. Wider bags from Feathered Friends include the Swift UL 30 ($610, about 26 ounces) and the more middle of the road width wise Swallow UL 30 (24 ounces, $600). It will be hard to go wrong with a Feathered Friends bag, so long as you get the right fit. Another option is the REI Co-op Magma 30 (averaging around 25 ounces, $380) – offered in no less than 9 sizes for an almost custom type of fit, this bag keeps it lightweight via use of an 850 fill power water resistant down, standard features, and you even get an interior pocket. While of all of my backpacking gear a down sleeping bag is one place where I would not try to cut budget, this is one bag that could be considered more in the budget category if you catch it on sale. Summary: Best 30F+ & Summer Rated Sleeping Bags (and rating F) Zpacks Classic 30 Western Mountaineering MegaLite (30) Western Mountaineering SummerLite (32) Western Mountaineering FlyLite (36) Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 30 Feathered Friends Egret UL 30 Feathered Friends Swift UL 30 Feathered Friends Swallow UL 30 REI Co-op Magma 30 Best 20 Degree Range Sleeping Bags Everything in nature seems to change below freezing, and at these temperatures I find that it becomes more important to consider those extra features like a nice draft tube and hood, with a draft collar being very much appreciated. For me and many others that backpack mostly in mountain terrain, the 20 degree bag gets the most use 3 seasons out of the year. These are your bread and butter sleeping bags, and from my perspective if you’re looking for the best sleeping bag in this category, you’ll likely be looking at the same brands we’ve previously discussed. Feathered Friends offers their versatile Hummingbird UL 20 (24 ounces, $640) – with the Feathered Friends Egret 20 (~28 ounces, around $630) being a women’s-specific option in this temperature range. These are narrower bags to save the most weight. However, if you like a little more space in a bag as I do, check out the Swallow UL 20 (27 ounces, $660). In regards to Western Mountaineering, we can narrow this down to the venerable UltraLite 20 degree (29 ounces, $630) – which is your narrow / standard option – and the wider and perhaps more comfortable 20 degree AlpinLite (31 ounces, $710). Although it’s a bit heavier the AlpinLite’s space wins out for me out of these two bags, but as with Feathered Friends, you can’t go wrong here. That said as previously mentioned and although I have had many a comfortable backcountry night in a WM AlpinLite, my preference for a backpacking sleeping bag has evolved towards the hoodless category. The Zpacks 20 Degree Classic sleeping bag (~19 ounces, $450) is my current choice for a bag in this temperature range – I find at these temperatures a hoodless bag is ideal (so long as I wear the warm hat I already take and wear a jacket with a hood). You can find my review of the Zpacks 20 here, although Zpacks has since updated the bag just a bit with upgrades. Zpacks again also offers their goose hood, but with a warm hat and jacket hood, I haven’t personally needed this until temps fall below 20. That said if you’re not ready to give up your sleeping bag hood, Zpacks also offers their 20 degree Mummy sleeping bag (23 ounces in medium standard, $580) with a built-in traditional hood. When on sale, for a more budget option in this category we’ll go ahead and put the REI Co-op Magma 15 in this category (comfort limit: 21 degrees). With a weight of around 36 ounces depending on size and retailing at $400 full price, this bag offers a very reasonable weight in 9 different sizes for a tailored fit, and at a very reasonable price especially if you catch it on sale. Summary: Best 20 Degree Range Sleeping Bags Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 20 Feathered Friends Egret UL 20 Feathered Friends Swallow UL 20 Western Mountaineering UltraLite (20) Western Mountaineering AlpinLite (20) Zpacks 20 Degree Classic Zpacks 20 Degree Mummy REI Co-op Magma 15 Best Winter and Cold Weather (Zero and 10 Degree) Sleeping Bags I find that it’s more versatile to have 2 warmer rated bags, combining them to form a winter sleep system when needed for cold winter trips rather than keeping a bag from this category on hand. As an example, I’ve combined a 20 degree and a more summer-oriented bag and stayed warm (with appropriate sleeping pads and a total r-value for the temperature) on winter trips nearing minus 20F. That said if you have one 3 season bag that covers all seasons other than winter, sleep especially cold and want a warmer bag for 3 season mountain trips, or are looking to add in a dedicated winter bag, a bag in this category may be desired. Same players, different temperature ratings again here. The 2lb., $720 Western Mountaineering VersaLite 10 degree sleeping bag is a solid choice on the warmer end of this category. One nice thing about the Versalite is that it’s in the middle width-wise – just right. Going back a bit to their 20 degree options, if the UltraLite was a bit too tight, and the AlpinLite a bit too wide, the VersaLite will likely be a perfect choice. For a women’s-specific bag check out the 10 degree Feathered Friends Petrel UL 10 (2lbs, $690). This is a super high quality women’s bag that is not unheard of on packing lists even for summer trips in the mountains for cold sleepers. As a women’s bag I haven’t personally used the Petrel, but having seen this bag being used in the field on many occasions I’m never surprised by the loft of Petrel – you may need a bigger pack! At these temperatures I do think a sleeping bag hood is something good to have – you want to retain every bit of heat your body puts off during the night within a singular compartment and bag. Thus the 28 ounce, $610 Zpacks Mummy Sleeping Bag in a 10 degree would be well worth consideration here for hikers looking to save weight. On cold winter trips, I prioritize warmth and features over weight. The colder it becomes the less I am personally concerned about weight – I prioritize warmth and comfort – and the last thing I’d want is a constricting bag on a winter night that could last 16 hours or more. In their wide mummy series the Feathered Friends Raven 10 UL (34 ounces, $730) would make for a top of the line choice in a 10 degree bag, but if saving the weight is more critical (via less width), the Feathered Friends Lark 10 UL (31 ounces, $710) would be the next logical choice here. Pushing the rating to 0F Feathered Friends offers their women’s Murre ES 0 degree bag (3lbs, $790) as well as their Ibis ES 0 Degree (50 ounces, $860). With a focus on heating efficiency, both of these bags have a bit of a narrow cut to be aware of – as with many things, there are pros and cons. Summary: Best Winter and Cold Weather Sleeping Bags Western Mountaineering VersaLite (10) Feathered Friends Petrel UL 10 Zpacks 10 Degree Mummy Feathered Friends Raven 10 UL Feathered Friends Lark 10 UL Feathered Friends Murre ES 0 Feathered Friends Ibis ES 0 Deep Winter / Expedition Sleeping Bags While I prefer to combine 2 bags to make a poor man’s expedition bag for general winter backpacking trips in the lower 48, if I were to plan an Arctic expedition, a cold mountaineering summit attempt, or for some type of cold northern basecamp type scenario, an expedition bag would certainly be appreciated in these unique circumstances. Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering offer some very intriguing, and impressive, choices here that both throw plenty of goose down at the issue. The Western Mountaineering Bison Stormshield (69 ounces, $1360) is rated to -40F with 10” of loft and a weather-resistant shell. This bag is sized generously for additional comfort on those long winter nights. On the Feathered Friends side, their -40F solution can be found in the Snow Goose ES -40 (65 ounces, $1210). This bag is another bag that’s sized generously for more comfort and space if you’ll be spending a lot of time in your sleeping bag. If -40F isn’t warm enough however, the 78 ounce, $1410 Snowy Owl ES -60 bag from Feathered Friends may be up your alley for the most epic of arctic level expeditions. Summary: Deep Winter / Expedition Sleeping Bags Western Mountaineering Bison Stormshield (-40) Feathered Friends Snow Goose ES -40 Feathered Friends Snowy Owl -60 Whether it's an expedition sleeping bag rated to 60 below or a featherweight summer bag that packs up smaller than a water bottle, there is a sleeping bag on the market for every possible use and scenario. In Conclusion A critical item on your gear list, there are a few ways to go about your sleeping bag strategy. You could choose to go with a bag rated for the lowest temperatures you’ll ever backpack in, but this bag may be overly bulky and heavy for warm summer trips (albeit workable). To save weight, I like to go with a 2 bag system, a warmer bag for downright summer-like weather, and a 20 degree bag that gets the vast majority of use for 3-season trips in the mountains where lows in the 20s are not uncommon in August. When I head out on a winter trip, I combine them. Whether you opt for a 1 bag approach or a multitude of bags ideal for every scenario, sleeping warm adds to any trip – and while a slightly heavier and warmer bag may not rule the ultralight spreadsheet, some temperature rating buffer is always appreciated at night when you’re out there. For a list of sleeping bags from various manufacturers that you can sort and filter by temperature rating and more, see this page at REI Co-op. For background info on sleeping bags, refer to our guide on How to Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag. For additional related “big 3” and “big 4” gear selection, take a look at our articles: Choosing the Best Backpacking Sleeping Pad as well as Best Backpacking Backpacks, and Best Backpacking Tents by Application and Budget.

The desert is full of little gems, and again I was off to explore another little nook in the wide expanse of the Colorado Plateau in Utah. As I headed south on U.S. 191, passing through the sleepy towns of Monticello and Blanding, my headlights cut through the darkness of the night-shaded road. I was on another unplanned road trip, fueled by my need for some space and nature therapy after having a typical week in the city. After car camping for the night I awoke the next morning to my alarm and the warming sky. At the south end of the Abajo Mountains in Southern Utah are Fish and Owl Creek Canyons, which converge into each other to make a loop for a fantastic overnight trip, or even a multi-night trip if you want to spend some extra time exploring the area for Native American ruins and relics. Bridges National Monument is in the same area too, but it didn’t really seem to fit a backpacking trip as it’s more of a loop road for tourists. I decided it would be fun to visit both, day tripping the monument with the other tourists and getting away from it all in the remote canyons. The ranger station opened up at 8am, and luckily they had a few permits still available even though it was considered the “high use” season. Because of the remoteness of the Cedar Mesa area, even during the high use season, it is still pretty desolate. After watching a required informative movie about leave no trace and the ecology of that area, I paid the nominal fee and collected my permit, and headed back out on the road towards the trailhead. Luckily my little hatchback made it down the last little bit of dirt road, where some of the roads in the area would have forced me to pack in my stuff. I had read about Fish and Owl Creek Canyons in Peter Potterfield’s Classic Hikes of North America a year or more earlier, and thought that if it had been placed in such a prestigious book that it definitely warranted a visit. It went on my short list since it was within an 8 hour drive from home, and beyond that I didn’t really look into it any more. Part of the adventure is knowing that a route exists and seeing it on a topo map, but leaving the sights and the rest for when you get there. Sure, I saw a few photos in the book, but from what I read it was the perfect length for an overnight loop and I thought I’d figure the rest out there when I got there. I brought my topo map and my overnight kit, slimmed down to the bare necessities due to the weather being mild and relatively warm for April. One other car with a New Mexico license plate was at the trailhead, a different one than at the BLM station since that couple had come to see another attraction in the area, the Moon House. An Owl Creek and Fish Canyon Hike Begins I shouldered my pack gingerly, keeping the right strap a little looser, and started off towards the trail that veered right towards Owl Creek Canyon. I hadn’t been backpacking since the fall, but all winter I had been climbing snow in the Colorado Rockies, so while it felt great to be back in the warm desert, I wasn’t used to wearing my trail runners and walking in the seemingly solid red Utah dirt. At first the path cut through a fairly thick pinyon pine and juniper forest, eventually becoming faint as cairns started to mark the path down the slick rock into the first canyon. As I worked my way down, the only obvious Native ruin along the route came into view. Sitting under an alcove stood a small mud and stone hut with the roof missing. It was surrounded by footprints but seemed to be in good shape without any modern vandalism or graffiti, and was a fun surprise to see. I took a moment to imagine what the indigenous people would have seen in this canyon centuries ago when they lived here, and how strange I would look to them. As I continued down the canyon, I found the trail and cairns to be easy to follow, and the walls grew around me fairly quickly. After a few miles, the grade leveled out and led to a much lusher area with Owl Creek meandering down through small ponds. Cottonwood trees and grasses replaced the pines, and on either side of me cryptobiotic kept me from wandering off the trail. A beautiful little pond with a small waterfall greeted me, and I decided it would be a good lunch spot. After having a quick bite, I continued on, and about a mile later I spied a few cairns on the left that were out of place and too high to be the actual trail, almost leading straight up the side of the canyon walls. I decided to check it out and drop my pack, and after a few moments of scrambling I found out what it was marking. A fairly large Native ruin appeared, similar to the first one but built against the side of the canyon walls, with a beautiful view down canyon. Here a few shards of pottery were placed in an obvious spot to be seen, but I knew that touching was off limits. After getting back to my gear, I shouldered by backpack again gingerly and continued on. My right shoulder gave me a dull throb, telling me that I needed to think twice. A few days earlier I had found out that it was torn, something called a labrum that I understood just enough to know that it was serious. Being out in the wilderness was doing more to remind me about my new found limitations than to find the freedoms I was hoping for. I answered back by popping a few vitamin-I’s and pretended it wasn’t there. I knew that it wouldn’t tear further while I was walking, and I tried to distract myself again. The trail twisted around a few minor washes that came through from the north, and then opened up to the left to a beautiful arch and sandstone spires. Nevill's Arch is definitely the highlight of the entire loop, and is quite the formation. I spent a few minutes just photographing the arch and enjoying the bluebird weather that had welcomed me to the desert. After getting a few shots, I noticed on the map that the trail straightened out and I wondered what the canyon junction would look like. I hoped for it to be marked, but instead I just turned when the canyon seemed to almost disappear into a flat, and I noticed some foot prints keeping a little more left than normal. As I made the turn and started into Fish Canyon, the trail and cairns came back, reassuring me that I had made a good decision. Fish Creek Canyon While not quite as beautiful as Owl Creek Canyon, Fish Creek Canyon didn’t disappoint. Like Owl Canyon, the walls grew quickly around me, but with a little more room in-between and with less slick rock sections. No creek existed at first, but after a few miles a small pool of water appeared. I decided it would be a good place to fill up, the first time since I had left the car, and I pumped a few liters. As I sat, I started hearing a few voices coming from up canyon. A moment later the only people I saw the whole trip came into view, three scientists from Los Alamos. I spoke briefly with them, finding out that I had also been the only person they had seen so far and that they had started down Fish Creek the afternoon before. Soon enough I returned to solitude, and continued on. At this point the sun disappeared over the west rim of Fish Canyon, and I began to hike in the shadows. Larger pools of water appeared, and in them you could see fish swimming around, undoubtedly giving the canyon its name. Not just minnows, but small trout that didn’t seem like they should exist here. They were landlocked with no water downstream, so I wondered if someone had stocked them years ago, or if they had somehow swam upstream during rainier seasons gone by. More and more fish appeared in additional pools as I moved further up the canyon, although nothing that was big enough to catch. After moving on I slipped into the bivy and my sleeping bag, and again let the stars of the desert sky lull me to sleep. I woke the next morning to the sunlight instead of an alarm. The night has been dreamless, and the throbbing in my shin and feet had disappeared. Another Hike Comes to a Conclusion I quickly packed up and started up the canyon, looking forward to the treats in my car somewhere above me. I felt like most of the canyon was behind me, and sure enough after a larger dryfall the trail steepened as it climbed up to the rim high above. Near the rim’s edge I came upon the only hard part, a two move scramble that some might consider to be slightly technical. I checked it out and hoped my shoulder wouldn’t bother me, but my rumination last night gave me hope. Luckily the rock was solid, and a small pile of rocks at the bottom served as a booster step to get me high enough to grab a positive hold. I was glad that I didn’t have to down climb it, and once I topped out, I found myself back in the pine forest that I had started in, with less than an hour’s worth of hiking to the car. I made a quick trek of the last bit, finding my car before noon. Getting out of the canyon so early in the day made me almost wish I had gone a little slower, but I remembered that I still had one sight to see before heading on. Bridges National Monument welcomed me with fresh water and bathrooms. As I enjoyed the lookouts over the three major bridges, crowded with RVs and tourists, I was happy in my decision to spend most of the trip in the backcountry. After driving the loop, I set back onto the road, feeling renewed and ready for the next piece of life to strike. Need to Know Information The BLM website has a brochure and more information about the area. Permits are required. Best Time to Go Spring and Fall will have the mildest temperatures, and spring will have more water options. Getting There There are no major airports near Cedar Mesa, and the closest town is Blanding. From Blanding, head south on Highway 191 to Highway 95, and then west on Highway 95 to Highway 261. Fish and Owl road is designated as road #253 and is 5 miles south of Highway 95 along Highway 261. The Kane Gulch Ranger Station would be able to relay current conditions. Dirt roads in the area can become impassable in bad weather. Maps Trails Illustrated #706 (Grand Gulch & Cedar Mesa Plateau) is your best option for a good map of the area. For getting to the trailhead and exploring other hikes in the state, the Utah Delorme Atlas & Gazetteer can be useful. Books Peter Potterfield’s Classic Hikes of North America. Editor's Note: This article by contributor Ted "tmountainnut " Ehrlich originally appeared in Issue 20 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

I'm so excited that I won! Thank you so much! Cannot wait to receive the boots and wear them on my trail!

Our randomly selected winner is @Char! Thanks to everyone who entered and thanks to Alaska Gear Company for partnering with us on this giveaway.