Backpacking can be a challenging endeavor in itself – at times in our effort to get back to basics and simplify life by hitting the trail we find ourselves poring over gear checklists, rushing to make the trailhead at a decent hour, or planning trips that just push the mileage a bit too far. With all this in mind, adding another component to the equation might not be the best idea. But once you find your rhythm, adding man’s best friend can be a great addition to any trip – and there aren’t many places where they could be a better friend than on the trail.

Dogs make us happy. Similar to the way that a campfire can turn a cold and wet hiker into a contented backcountry soul, dogs can make tough situations bearable and provide something special in regards to companionship. Somehow, they can offer this companionship without hindering that feeling of being alone in the wild. This can truly be the best of both worlds. You’ll get away from it all but still have someone to share it with all the same. However, a dog will depend on you more than ever in this situation and there are a few things to keep in mind.

Age

One of the first things to consider is the age of the dog. If the dog is too young and still growing, you may want to hold off on strenuous activities like backpacking for a while, with the exact age varying from dog to dog and breed to breed. Too old…And well, your companion might just wish they could spend the weekend in the dog bed at home instead of out on some trail with their crazy owner. How old is too old depends on many factors, including the life history of your pet, their overall health, and breed. All dogs are different...for both cases, it would be best to consult a veterinarian first and I like to always discuss where I'll be headed with my vet as well, to see if any additional vaccinations would be good to consider.

Training

Many people think that dogs, just because they are dogs, can immediately go from months of inactivity to 20 mile days in a heartbeat. This usually results in a hobbling dog barely able to make it off the trail and back to the car. Just like people, dogs need to train for strenuous exercise and backpacking is no exception. At the very least, I like to exercise several times a week with my dog, if not every day. Long walks and / or a running routine are perfect for this. This will rack up the miles and acclimate a dog’s feet to the abrasion and abuse they’ll encounter on the trail.

To avoid exhaustion and injury, I follow the same strategy I use for running, and build up the mileage slowly week to week. As a general rule I avoid increasing the mileage by more than 10% each week. Thus, if I'm currently out with my dog walking and running a combined 20 miles per week, 22 would be maximum I'd plan to tackle the next week, and so on. 10% is a good max – lower is even better. Then I keep building until the weekly mileage is at least as much as I plan to travel on a weekend hike, and include at least one long day each week that’s close to or greater than the maximum daily mileage I'm planning for a trip. As an example, if a 20 mile weekend hike is planned @ 10 miles each day, I'd build my dog’s weekly mileage up to at least 20 mile + weeks with a 9-10 mile minimum long day.

I like to rest the dog for at least 2 full days prior, and 2 full days after backpacking trips. This should hopefully allow for a fresh start and ample recovery time. If you haven’t noticed, the basic goal with all of this is to simply make the trip part of the training. A weekend trip would essentially be like back to back long days and fit into the overall training plan. Going for trips with longer mileage or more days? I'd build up the mileage in training even more beforehand. I avoid concrete as much as possible while training, it’s rough on pads, joints, and claws. A short trail or nature area close to home is ideal. Sound like a lot of training? Well it is, but even if you aren’t training for a particular trip it will be better for the dog, exercise is good! Remember that dogs can’t talk to tell you they’ve worked too hard, so if in doubt I scale back the mileage and rest.

Water

While training and on any backpacking trip, water is fuel, both for people and dogs. For anything other than the shortest training jaunt, I carry water, and I carry even more in hot weather. The best method I’ve found is to simply carry more of my own water – no special dog bottle, which only seems to complicate things in my experience. I like to offer the dog clean water at least once per hour, or more often if they are showing signs of thirst (excessive panting, a dry tongue, exhaustion). For our hiking dog I've found that around a 2-3 cup plastic food storage container works great as a water bowl. Leave the lid at home and you’ll never notice the approximate ½ oz. weight of the bowl (I usually just look in the kitchen to find something that will work). That said dedicated outdoor dog bowls are also available if you prefer to go that route. Either way, keep this in a convenient spot – an outside pack pocket works best. You may want to increase the size of the bowl for larger breeds.

Food

I like to carry the same type of food that I feed at home when out on the trail, but carry more of it. Dog food bags should have printed guidelines for high activity dogs. This is a good place to start. I start by calculating the days that we'll be out and pack enough food to meet the guideline at a bare minimum. Leaning towards packing extra if in doubt. Most of the guidelines are listed in cups per day, I like to weigh this amount and then pack by the ounce. Use a scale to weigh the food prior to the trip, and when you return weigh any leftover food. Note these amounts and after a few trips you should be able to calculate how many ounces of food per day your dog requires.

I like to pack food in sturdy double-zippered large Ziploc bags. The Gallon size works well – just avoid the slider type bags, they just can’t hold up to any trip longer than a day or two. A secondary hard plastic container works great for a food bowl. Mark the bowl you’ll use for food or use slightly different food grade bowls. I only use this bowl for food and the other for water. This way you can hang the food bowl at night along with your own food and still have a clean water bowl to keep in your shelter should Fido become thirsty.

Tailoring the feeding schedule to your own pet’s personality and needs would be best; however I find that giving the dog as much as they’ll eat at night and prior to departing camp in the morning works well. If they are hesitant to eat or have lost their appetite, I've at times resorted to mixing in some of my own (dog safe) leftovers in with their food. Pack a few of your dog’s favorite treats for each day and use these to bridge the gap between breakfast and dinner and for a lunch of sorts. Store these in another Ziploc in a handy location for quick feeding on the go – like you would an energy bar for yourself. Energy rich foods will allow you carry less weight, due to the fact that they pack so much more power per ounce. I like to pick high quality food and treats / snacks and stick with reputable brands without “no name” ingredients and a higher protein content with a lack of artificial ingredients. At night, you’ll want to hang this food religiously on your trip – many backcountry critters find dog food especially tasty.

Dog Gear for Backpacking

The first thing that people usually look for is a backpack so that their dog can carry their own food. I've tested several brands extensively, but to really know you'll have test with your dog. It’s just so hard to really know if your dog is truly comfortable with a pack, and if they’re carrying too much weight. Many dogs will just continue to push even if they’re in pain, not a good situation. Thus, watch your dog closely – some dogs are best without a pack ever, while others can't wait to get it on. In the latter case, I like to only lightly load the dog's pack and focus more on giving them some bulky but lightweight items not necessarily to lighten my load, but to give me just a bit more space in my pack.

In the end don't be afraid to muscle-up and carry everything your dog will need in your own pack – it’s simply easier to tell if you’re carrying too much weight instead of guessing how your dog feels. If you do decide to go the backpack route for your dog, not all dog packs are created equal. Select a lightweight option and make sure to find the perfect size. The Ruffwear Approach dog pack has served my dogs well, and some of this comes down to the personality of the dog.

Fine-tune the fit and acclimate your dog at home prior to a trip. Never overload your dog – 10% of their body weight is more than enough in my experience. In cold or wet weather, we’ve found a weather-resistant dog coat to be a good asset. Fit is just as important here, you want something that will fit close to the dog’s body without inhibiting movement or compressing against their fur too much, this might actually limit warmth by inhibiting their own natural insulation system.

I use this in the tent at night when things cool down as well as on the trail during the day if the weather conditions necessitate it. For this the Ruffwear Cloud Chaser dog jacket has been a venerable favorite and is hard to beat. Check out our full review at the previous link for more. Test the fit while training at home, halfway into a long backpacking trip isn’t the place to find out that the coat you picked is a chafe factory for your companion. The oils that dogs naturally produce make their coats fairly water resistant, so avoid washing your dog right before a trip which will strip these oils away.

Booties can be great for cold conditions where snow and ice will be encountered. Many booties are overbuilt with thick rubber soles and heavy fabric uppers. I’ve found that this type of boot only makes things worse. With such a heavy-duty construction, your dog won’t be able to move their feet normally and won’t be able to independently move each toe for traction and a normal gait. Instead, look for a simple bootie made of nylon fabric, such as those used by professional dog sledding teams. This will provide protection for the dog’s feet, but still allow them to move and walk naturally. They do wear out after 100-200 miles, but are cheap enough that you can buy many replacements for less than you’d pay for a single pair of the heavy, overbuilt dog boots.

I suggest a pair with a stretchy Velcro closure and have had great success with dogbooties.com. Finally, you’ll need sleeping gear to keep your dog warm at night. I find that a closed cell foam pad works great, just make sure you’re selecting one that’s warm enough. Generally speaking, you’ll want to evaluate the manufacturer’s stated r-value and at least match what you’re using for you own pad. Catch your dog lounging around and measure their full extended length, then cut the foam pad down to size for weight savings. Leave the pad long enough so that your dog will have full coverage and won’t find their paws hanging over the edges. A pad like the Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol works great for temperatures down to around freezing. I add more layers for more warmth if it will get colder. You can do this by either doubling the same foam pad or adding thinner layers of foam padding.

Take a dedicated blanket if you prefer, but if the weather is warm enough I sometimes assign double duty to whatever insulation piece we’re carrying for that trip, such as a down jacket or synthetic fleece. Throw this on top and tuck the jacket in around the edges…in combination with the foam pad this can keep things toasty on nights where the lows aren't too low. To add more warmth and block wind I've added my (totally dry) rain jacket on the outside of all this as well. For anything less than warm weather, take a warmer pad or double up while adding more and more insulation on top and consider a dedicated dog sleeping bag. Make sure to take a shelter or tent big enough for you and your dog. In wet conditions, a quick towel dry with an absorbent pack towel before entering the tent seems to take care of any wet-dog-ruining-your-night worries.

Basically, it all comes down to taking whatever you need to keep your dog comfortable during the hiking day and during the night. Dogs are tough, but keep in mind they're used to home just like we are. Even if you might not need it, taking along these comfort items on every trip will be worth it for when you do.

There are additional items you may want to take a long as well (for example I've taken along LED collar lights on some trips), coming down to a personal preference and depending on the personality of the dog. You can check out a wide selection of backpacking and hiking oriented dog gear here at REI Co-op.

Leashes and Regulations

One item not mentioned above is a leash – perhaps the most important item of gear you’ll need. Remember, even if your dog is the kindest dog in the world, some people fear all dogs regardless of their demeanor. Others may find your beloved pet nothing more than a strong annoyance. Wildlife is another matter; the last thing you want is your dog running off after a deer in the distance, or in some cases bringing the wildlife back to you. Remember that some areas will require your pet to be leashed at all times. Other areas, especially your National Parks, will not allow dogs on backcountry trails whatsoever – check the regulations of any area you plan to visit well beforehand.

Final Thoughts

All of this may seem like a lot of work – and it is. But it’s well worth the while. Companionship is something that you simply can’t put a price on. Dogs love the outdoors. Dogs love exercise. People love exercising in the outdoors with their dog. Owning a dog is already a time intensive choice to make, but they’ll be relying on you even more out on the trail. These guidelines should set you on the right track, but should be adapted to your own situation. When eased into the sport and with the necessary amount of care and preparation, tackling the trail with your canine companion will compliment your backcountry experience and enrich their daily life.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 1 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.