Though it had been spring for 2 months, with 4 feet of snow still blanketing the high trails close to home I looked for a break. Utah often occupies my hiking plans in spring, but while the canyons have their undeniable appeal, I was looking to set my own course somewhere with a view. The map revealed a destination I hadn’t previously considered farther north.

Backpacking Craters of the Moon National Monument made for quite the unique experience.

Craters of the Moon National Monument

The more I thought about Craters of the Moon National Monument in Idaho the more appealing the thought became. A few days later an early morning start and a few hundred miles of driving took me to this place that’s like no other I’ve seen – a cross between the dry sagebrush plains and hills of home with a dose of Hawaii.

Parking the car, I shouldered my pack, with almost 20 pounds of water alone, and no sooner had I locked the door than a steady rain began to fall. I tried to believe it would pass through at any moment as I hiked along to start my trip, but rain gear was soon deployed. This would be a cold and rainy start, but the showers, growing thunderous and heavier, did eventually relent, revealing clearing skies as the sun set.

Though the return drive would entail making my way back through a dark rainy night and even blizzard conditions, with dinner on the stove, all I had to do for now was enjoy exploring what was to come in the sun, at Craters of the Moon National Monument.

My visit to Craters of the Moon National Monument featured wildflowers galore.

Need to Know

Information

A free backpacking permit is required; you can pick one up at the visitor center between the hours of 8 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. or through 6 p.m. Memorial Day through Labor Day (closed on winter holidays). A small entry fee will need to be paid to enter the monument (credit cards accepted). Water is very scarce; although water potentially might be found in a few water holes, it’s not the most appetizing and carrying all I needed was my preferred approach – I left with 9 liters. Snow would be available in winter. Off trail travel was difficult and I appreciated tough shoes, long pants, sun protection, and good tent stakes. Free-standing / a bivy might be even better. Pets & fires are not permitted. Check out with the visitor center before you leave.

Best Time to Go

Spring and fall timing will be more likely to avoid high heat and the snow and cold. The lava flows and dark soil absorbs and radiates heat, and this was quite apparent even on a spring day with very mild temperatures in the 60’s.

Getting There

Craters of the Moon National Monument is located in southern Idaho. From Arco, ID travel southwest for 19.1 miles on US-20 W/US-26 W/US-93 S/W and turn left (south) to enter the monument. Take an immediate left and stop at the visitor center to obtain your free backpacking permit, then pass through the entry station to the Tree Molds parking lot. Walk east to connect with the Wilderness Trail.

Maps

The monument has some maps available which are good for a general overview and for getting to the trailhead. For backcountry hiking and backpacking, I carried USGS topos of the entire wilderness area and saved multiple topos to my phone along with aerial imagery (see our CalTopo App Review), good for navigating the lava flows. After the Wilderness Trail ends I was on my own using map and compass work to navigate. As always for getting to and from the trailhead and overall planning I like to use a state atlas like the Delorme Idaho Atlas & Gazetteer.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 22 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.