Hiking, Backpacking, & Exploring Enchanted New Mexico
In the “must see” places of the outdoors, certain areas seem to garner the most publicity. All names that are found in glossy photos for post cards, magazines or coffee table books. Destinations any backpacker would love to, and should, see at some point. Places to be added to their memories and experiences of where they have spent time in the outdoors.
But among these places cataloged, discussed and portrayed in glossy photos is a place of deep canyons, ancient Puebloan sites, high alpine peaks and deep blue lakes nestled in remote mountain cirques. And where bighorns grace the ridge tops. This place not often thought about? The Land of Enchantment. New Mexico.
For such a large state, New Mexico is an unknown to many outdoors people. People will spend months planning a two week vacation in some of the marquee areas. But not New Mexico. Which is a shame. New Mexico has some amazing, remote and stupendous areas to explore. But more than the scenery, there is the unique blend of culture found throughout New Mexico. The mixture of Anglo, Spanish, and Native culture adds to the experience of spending time in this area.
And the food? Any post-backpacking repast with some delicious chile relleno must be one of the great pleasures in life. Here are a few places that should be of interest to anyone who wants to explore this great and unique area. It is a mere sample of everything to explore in New Mexico. But it is sample that should pique the interests of any lover of the outdoors.
The Center of it All: Chaco Canyon National Historic Park
Chaco Canyon National Historic Park is an UNESCO World Heritage site. An appropriate designation for this important cultural area. In the center of the Ancestral Puebloan world, Chaco is arguably the most important archeological site in the American Southwest. Found in a canyon far from any major town, Chaco takes some commitment to see. But it is a place that should be seen by all. It is not a backpacking destination but car camping is permitted. There is a fair amount of hiking mileage that may be done. But it is not the mileage that is important. It is the seeing of these impressive sites that is the attraction.
The main sites such Pueblo Bonito are certainly impressive. But the more remote areas? Places that must be hiked for hours to see such as Penasco Blanco? Those are the impressive places. Overlooking the stark, but beautiful, terrain of Chaco, Penasco Blanco is alone and up high. And on the way to this remote place within an already remote park? The famous “nebula petroglyph” may be seen. One of the more famous finds, and ongoing debates, in archaeoastronomy.
When to Go
Fall and spring are ideal. Summers can get very hot. Winters can get brutally cold. I was there over Christmas week and the temperatures dipped to -7F one night according to the ranger!
Maps
The map supplied at the Visitor Center has information needed to hike the trails.
Logistic Considerations
Chaco Canyon is very isolated. The canyon is at the end of a somewhat rough dirt road. Fuel and any last minute supplies can be found in Nageezi, NM. This “town” is mainly a gas station. The gas station is conveniently located before the turnoff to the road that takes you to Chaco Canyon.
Other Considerations
Due to its prominence with archeoastronomy, both the solstices and equinoxes can be relatively busy times in Chaco Canyon. From all reports, a special time to be there however. Chaco Canyon is also an International Dark Sky Park . A fantastic opportunity for enjoying the night sky. Bring the appropriate star chart or the 21st century equivalent in app form.
History via the Backcountry: Bandelier National Monument
As stunning and trip-worthy as Chaco Canyon may be as a destination, there is something about a backpacking trip to explore this history that is very satisfying. Bandelier National Monument is another important site of the Ancestral Puebloan culture. Unlike Chaco, the only way to really see some of the major highlights of this area is go backpacking deep into the canyons.
Due to recent fires and floods, the backcountry area is not crowded. I've found basic map reading techniques for backpacking in this area are needed. The signage is often missing and the trails, when existing, can be rough.
The payoffs? Deep and long canyons abound, exquisite backcountry sites beckon for camping and quiet ancestral Puebloan sites can be found. A notable site in particular is the Painted Cave. An over twenty-mile round trip hike from the Bandelier headquarters. But worth every step. Capulin Canyon itself is stunning. Sheer red rock walls, a flowing creek, and cottonwoods blazing. The feeling is remote. But the Painted Cave? Truly a memorable site. With both pre- and post-Columbian pictographs that should be looked at and savored. The site is still sacred to the descendants of the people who made those paintings long ago. Please be respectful of the area.
When to Go
October through May is perhaps ideal with the caveat that the park may close if there is too much snow at the peak of winter. Summer is very hot and flash floods in the canyons are a potential issue.
Maps
The National Geographic Trails Illustrated Bandelier National Monument Map covers trails in the park. The Sky Terrain map for the area is also worth consideration.
Logistic Considerations
A shuttle bus ride is required from mid-May through mid-October. The shuttle is located in the nearby town of Whiterock, NM.
Other Considerations
The trails and overall conditions of the backcountry are rough from fires and floods in recent years. These are not the typical well maintained and marked National Park Service grade trails. I have found a good map and navigation techniques are both put to use while hiking in the area.
Backpacker’s Delight: Pecos Wilderness
A place to backpack with thirteen thousand foot peaks, alpine lakes, delightful ridge walks, and where herds of bighorns roam? Go to the Pecos Wilderness. Towards the very end of the Rockies, it is one of my favorite places I’ve backpacked. Depending on the snowpack or if there is an early winter, the Pecos Wilderness can be hiked as early as late-May and as late as sometime into October.
Trail Riders Wall and Santa Barbara Divide are two places not to miss when in the Pecos. Any ridge walking junkies will savor both places. With many miles of trails and lots of off-trail options for the adventurous, many days can happily be spent in the in this gem of the New Mexico backcountry.
When to Go
Depending on the snowpack, the Pecos Wilderness may be available for typical three season backpacking by Memorial Day Weekend. The season generally extends until early or even mid-October.
Maps
The National Geographic Trails Illustrated Santa Fe, Truchas Peak Map covers the trails in the Wilderness area. The appropriate USGS topo map is suggested for off-trail travel.
Logistic Considerations
There are many access points for the Pecos Wilderness. If coming from the Taos side, the Santa Barbara Trailhead is a very good access point. It leads to the Santa Barbara Divide and other points of interest. Coming the Santa Fe area? The Jack’s Creek Trailhead is a popular access point.
Other Considerations
Holiday weekends are the busiest time. Fall hikes? The aspens are sublime.
Along the River: Rio Grande del Norte National Monument
The Rio Grande is perhaps second only to the Colorado River basin in terms historic, cultural and economic importance for rivers in the American West. And an excellent way to see the Rio Grande? The Rio Grande del Norte National Monument. Sitting on a volcanic plain in northern New Mexico, the monument seems too stark and perhaps drab at first.
But then the magic happens. You pull up to the monument along the entrance road. Your first glimpse into the gorge is seen. And then the proverbial jaw drop happens. It is stunning.
Some of the most exquisite car camping around may be done overlooking the rim of the gorge itself. Prefer backpacking? There are backcountry sites available almost on the banks of the Rio Grande itself. Not to miss is a hike to the confluence of the Red River and the Rio Grande. Petroglyphs abound as well. Truly a magical place.
When to Go
The monument is accessible all year. Summers can be hot, but cool by the river. Winters can be cold, with slippery access to the gorge below, but the snow does not typically last. Spring and fall are again ideal.
Maps
The Sky Terrain Taos, Wheeler, and Latir Peaks Map covers the monument and nearby areas.
Logistic Considerations
An easy drive on paved roads to the monument. The visitor’s center does not have many amenities, but Taos is less than an hour away if supplies are needed. Or if you want a little culture with your backcountry experience before or after the trip.
Other Considerations
The trails on the rim of the gorge allow biking. A great monument to park your car and not have to worry about driving for the weekend. All the campgrounds are connected by the same trails as well making loops hikes various lengths very feasible.
High Plains Drifting: Mills Canyon
It is not only the mountains or the red rock canyons of the Colorado Plateau that beckon in New Mexico. The Kiowa Grassland contains a gem of a place: Mills Canyon. Dropping nearly 1000 feet from the High Plains, Mills Canyon is place very much off the beaten path. The red rock walls seem more reminiscent of Utah than the High Plains. The Canadian River placidly flows through the canyon itself. And this area has some of the darkest skies in continental United States. Stargazers will appreciate the lack of light pollution. Seeing the Milky Way is a given.
There is a nice, and free, USFS campground on the Canadian River. But a backpacking trip is very possible in this canyon with about twenty miles along the canyon bottom accessible to the public.
Have a little more time after or before the trip? Capulin Volcano National Monument is close by. Located dramatically where the plains meets the Rockies, the extinct volcano really stands out. At 60,000 years old, Capulin volcano is very young for a volcano. The terrain is interesting. The ancient lava flows still dot the landscape. Looking and hiking into the crater is a must-do. But be sure to take one of the hiking trails that go along the old lava flows to really see the effects this volcano had on the landscape.
When to Go
Spring and Fall are perhaps the best times to go. Summers will be very hot in the canyon bottom. Always a potential for flooding along the Canadian River. If the winter is mild, would be a quiet time to go but the access road could be very difficult.
Maps
USGS maps only. Caltopo is always a good resource.
Logistical Considerations
The access road is somewhat rough. A passenger vehicle might be ok if slow going. The road is narrow. I had to pull over and the other vehicle was less than a foot from my window. I’m not exaggerating.
Other Considerations
Another very isolated area. Last minute supplies and fuel can be found at Springer, NM. The town is about 45 miles, one-way, from the bottom of Mills Canyon. There are no readily available services between these two points.
After the Trip
And after all these trips? Conveniently located near many of these sites is the town of Taos. A place perfect for any post-trip food and cultural exploring. More laidback and less busy than Santa Fe, Taos is a great place to relax before or after a trip. Relax in a plaza that goes back to the 1700s, see a place that has been inhabited for over 1000 years, visit the site of where both some famous photography and paintings were done, and enjoy some food made with the green chile for which New Mexico is famous.
If there is a better way to end a trip than to enjoy a refreshment while eating a bowl of chili while shaded by some cottonwoods on a late summer day, it must be pretty darn good.
Further Reading
I find when exploring the area, having some deep background makes the trip that much more enjoyable. Here are some books or other resources that I have found to be interesting reading:
New Mexico: A History by Joseph P. Sanchez is a very good one-volume introduction to the various threads of culture and history that make New Mexico such a wonderful place to explore and experience.
People of Chaco: A Canyon and its Culture by Kendrick Fraizer is an excellent introduction to not only the Chacoan world but also the Ancestral Puebloan culture in general.
House of Rain: Tracking a Vanished Civilization Across the American Southwest by Greg Childs. An engaging and thought provoking read even if some of the conclusions are strongly contested. The Taos Pueblo strongly argue against the civilization “vanishing” for example!
The Maverick Cookbook: Iconic Recipes and Tales from New Mexico by Lynn Cline. History book? Work of historical fiction? Cook book? A little of everything, really. This book collects recipes from various periods of time in New Mexico’s long and fascinating history. Arguably one of the best ways to enjoy and understand an area’s culture is through its food. And the blend of Native, Spanish, and Anglo cuisine that makes up New Mexican cuisine is very much reflective of the state’s blend of history and culture. A very delicious blend, too.
Editor's Note: This article by contributor Paul Magnanti originally appeared in Issue 30 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.
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