The Canadian Rockies: Day Hikes in Jasper National Park
Canada's Rocky Mountain Parks are a great location for hiking, and attract millions of visitors every year. At 10,878 km² (4,200 sq. mi.) Jasper is one of the largest, but Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks are also part of the network as is Mt. Robson Provincial Park in British Columbia and Waterton in Southern Alberta. Much of the traffic tends to go to the commercial hub of Banff, leaving the rest for hikers and others who enjoy the wilderness.
But my philosophy has always been that I want to take people places they never thought they'd go, to see things they never expected to see, and to do things they never thought they could do. With that goal in mind, I've been hiking with friends in Canada's national parks for many years. From beginners to experienced hikers, there are rewarding dayhikes everywhere, and I've selected a few that first-time visitors might enjoy.
Sulphur Skyline Trail
One I especially like for new visitors to the Parks is the Sulphur Skyline Trail. Leaving from the parking lot at Miette Hot Springs, a moderate climb up only 4 km (2.5 miles) of trails gets first-timers to the very top of a real mountain, with great views of the surrounding peaks and the scenic valleys below.
The first section of the trail is about a kilometer long, and rises steadily up a smooth path beside a stream, before turning left and starting a long ascent across the side of a mountain. You reach a junction where the now-closed Mystery Lake Trail joins, and just a few steps later, the real work begins.
The total elevation gain to the top is 750 meters (2,460 ft.), equal to many of the more difficult trails in the Park, but a series of 17 switchbacks over the last few kilometers eases the pain. Setting the pacing to include brief stops at every one ensures that everybody in the group makes it all the way up, and the same principle can be used for slower hiking partners. After all, the key to a mountain hike is that anyone can get to the top, as long as you're willing to take your time!
When you've finished all those switchbacks, you'll pop out of the treeline at an alpine meadow. In front of you is a large white boulder, an 'erratic' left behind by the glaciers. It's a nice place for a break and for photos, and less ambitious hikers may want to wait there while their companions continue to the summit. The last section is a short but challenging ascent up a scree slope. It is steep, with quite a view from the top. From the summit, you will have views of the mountains and valleys all around. You will be looking back at the Miette Hot Springs down the valley far below, and the Fiddle River Valley on the opposite side of the mountain.
It takes a bit of determination, but with only a few hours of hiking, visitors can count a new and spectacular achievement among their accomplishments. I typically take about 2-3 hours going up and about 1 ½ hours coming back down again. A soak in the hot springs before heading back to town can be nice.
Valley of the Five Lakes
Another nice walk is the Valley of the Five Lakes. Just a few kilometers south of town, the trail offers gentle grades, nice scenery, and a forest experience. The eventual destination, as the name says, is a string of five interconnected lakes paralleling the Athabasca River. In summer, they are different shades of sapphire-blue, and coupled with the mountain backgrounds of the Athabasca Valley, the opportunities for beautiful photos are endless.
The main trail begins in the forest, crossing a series of low, lateral moraines, then after less than a kilometer, arrives at a lovely little valley. With open meadows and views of the surrounding mountains, it's a nice place to pause for a break.
Crossing a wooden footbridge, you reach a junction where you can choose either to continue ahead, or select other trails leading to more difficult routes. Left takes you back to the Jasper townsite, or the option of an alternate 10 km route encircling the five lakes, while a right turn takes you 9 km farther up the valley to Wabasso Lake. Most hikers will go straight ahead, climbing the opposite side of the valley. Look for ancient Douglas firs and spruce trees on the warm, west-facing slopes, and aspen groves at the top.
Once back into the forest, you soon reach a trail marker offering a left or right fork. The trail is a loop, so either one works, but my preference is to stay left. More moraines make a bit of a challenge. You'll find low hills and a few slippery spots, some steeper sections, and tantalizing views through the treetops of the mountains above. Very soon, you realize there's a lake to the left – a bit of a push through the bushes provides a great view of the first lake and the mountains behind it, and just a few meters farther down the trail shows you the fourth lake on your right.
The trail traverses the eastern slopes above the second and third lakes, and the fourth, then you arrive at the fifth. Each lake is a slightly different colour, but all are some shade of the turquoise blue that Rocky Mountain lakes are famous for. The last lake is larger than the others, and you will see a couple of old rowboats chained to the trees for fishermen to rent, and some nice views of the lake. Stop and take a rest before following the trail back around. You will still have a few hills to climb, but there is nothing too challenging. The Valley of the Five Lakes offers a rewarding walk without too much fuss. Total distance is about 4.5 km and the elevation gain is nominal.
Bald Hills Trail
A personal favourite is the Bald Hills Trail. It's not the easiest, since there can be some route-finding involved. Starting at Maligne Lake (a popular destination because of its scenery) the trail begins with an elevation gain of 450 meters (1,475 feet) up an abandoned fire road. At first, it's not a particularly spectacular route, but just a few kilometers of walking up a moderate grade leads to an old fire lookout just above treeline, with nice views of the lake and the whole Maligne Valley far below. Rising above is a steep bluff, and a track across its slopes leads to the real destination out of sight behind an outcrop.
Just a short walk across the edge of the treeline brings you to a rocky alpine meadow. Three different peaks are now within easy reach, and the route to the farthest lies just ahead. A bit more elevation and some hopping across a boulder-field leads to the summit. It's a nice place to stop for lunch, with wonderful views of the lake and the mountains all around, and a few boulders to shelter behind if it's windy. Take a break and enjoy the scenery!
The route to the next two peaks involves a descent back to the meadow, heading back the way you came, then a bit of easy ridge-walking up to each summit then down the slopes of each one, before you wind up back at the top of the bluffs. Straight down from there gets you to the fire lookout, and another hour or two puts you back at the parking lot. Depending on your route, the maximum elevation gain would be about 700 meters and the distance would be around 10-15 km. A typical day on the Bald Hills takes me about 5 to 6 hours, typically leaving time to make it back to Jasper for supper.
Parker's Ridge
Like Sulphur Skyline, Parker's Ridge is another one that is easy to do and offers unusual rewards. Located just south of the Icefields, the trail leaves straight from the highway and immediately begins a 250 meter switchbacked climb up the east face of the ridge. It's a slog, but to compensate you will very soon leave the treeline and be rewarded with good views of the surrounding mountains.
Once at the top, the adventure begins! The main trail leads ahead and to the left, curving across the southern face of the ridge. Soon, you begin to get glimpses of the Saskatchewan Glacier far below, and the river valley heading south towards Banff. Few people have seen a glacier, and fewer still have seen one from above! There are lots of opportunities for spectacular photos; the glacier or the valley, the alpine meadows and tundra, and watch for a herd of mountain sheep that live there. For many people those views are more than enough, and they are happy to return to their cars.
But there is another option as well. When returning, stronger hikers can stay left, watching for trails leading up a low hill. It's not much farther, but hidden behind that hill is Mt. Athabasca! Once on top, hikers can get a good close-up view of the mountain, and Hilda Glacier on its south flank. This is open alpine tundra, and it's right next to a (typically chilly and windy) major icefield.
Wilcox Pass
Just to the north is Wilcox Pass, a 350 meter hike the overlooks the Athabasca Glacier. From the far side of the valley, the Wilcox Pass Trail starts with a nice hike through the forest. The trail is rooted and eroded in some spots, but quite passable. Soon you will leave the treeline and reach the first of many outlooks. Nice views, and the terrain starts to open up. Wilcox Pass has been described as "the one you will compare all others to" – it has everything, from mountains to glacier views, to flowers and alpine meadows, to mountain sheep and mountain streams.
The hike is especially nice in mid-summer, when flowers come out everywhere – try for the last week of July or the first week of August. Like many trails in the National Parks, this one has suffered from severe trail-braiding. The alpine terrain is very sensitive, and takes a long time to recover from even the smallest footprint. Try to stay on the beaten path so there's something left for others.
Following the trail takes you high into the alpine, and you will be rewarded with views of the glaciers and mountains in the area. Mountaineers will have access to Wilcox Peak and to the surrounding summits, but most travelers will be content with the scenery, the flowers, and perhaps a glimpse of the mountain sheep that live there. There is a cairn at the top of the pass and most people stop there before retracing their steps. There is an unofficial trail that continues down the other side and ends at Tangle Falls, but you would have to have a car parked at both ends to do the trail as a through-hike. The distance to the top of the pass is about 4 km, so expect to take 3-4 hours to do it. A pretty good destination, though, if you're driving down from Jasper.
Obviously, there are many more great hikes in Jasper National Park, from easy pond loops to week-long backpacking trips. Some are more challenging than others, but they are all spectacular and rewarding, and all reflect the character that is unique to the Canadian Rockies.
Need to Know
Information
You will be required to buy a national park pass, but access to the trails is free. These can be purchased by the day or annual passes are also available.
Best Time to Go
June through October. If you're looking for more solitude (and lower prices!), the shoulder season months of June, and September/October can work.
Getting There
From Calgary, take the Trans Canada Highway into Banff National Park (1 hour), and turn north on the Icefields Parkway (Hwy 93) to get to the town of Jasper. From Edmonton, take the Yellowhead Trail (Hwy 16) west to Jasper (about 4 hours).
Maps
National Geographic offers their Jasper National Park Map Pack. Less detailed maps are also available free from the Park Information Office.
Books
The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide, by Brian Patton and Bart Robinson. For everything you ever wanted to know about the Canadian Rockies, look for the Handbook of the Canadian Rockies by Ben Gadd.
Editor's Note: This article by contributor Peter McClure originally appeared in Issue 13 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.
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