If there is such a thing as a backpacker’s paradise then look no further than the Kungsleden, Sweden’s Royal Trail above the Arctic Circle near the border of Norway. If you can hike just one section of the 240-mile long trail, start with the world-class hike between Nikkaluokta and Abisko. Imagine wide Arctic valleys, stunning northern lights, reindeer, and, if you go in September, incredible fall colors covering the landscape. The 80-mile hike from Nikkaluokta to Abisko can work for all skill levels, from the beginning hiker with moderate fitness to the experienced mountain climber seeking high adventure. You can pack ultralight and stay in the huts along the way, or you can backpack and camp where you like and explore the depths of this beautiful wilderness area. Whatever your skill level, the hike from Nikkaluokta to Abisko is one hike to put on your short list.

For me, this trip was about 10 years in the making. I hiked through the wild and rugged Sarek National Park in 2004 and traveled a short stretch of the Kungsleden on the way out. Seeing some of the landscape just to the north of Sarek really planted the seed for a return trip to the region. Finally, the stars and calendars aligned and I was able to book the trip with my college buddy, Gunnar, and his girlfriend, Simona, which would allow some quality time for us to catch up on the 7-day hike. Both are novice hikers who chose to pack light and stay in the huts along the way. I couldn’t resist taking a full pack with camera gear since I was keen to photograph some of the areas off the main trail.

The first major decision is when to go. We chose early September because the temperatures are still pretty mild, the swarms of mosquitoes are long gone, and there is a chance to catch the northern lights and fall colors. The next decision is whether to begin the hike in Nikkaluokta and hike north or start hiking from Abisko and head south. Since you’re mainly hiking through river valleys and not crossing mountain ridges, the elevation gain is negligible either way. Both Abisko and Nikkaluokta are a short bus ride to the airport in Kiruna so that’s not a factor either. You can’t go wrong either way you choose…or can you? The decision to hike north from Nikkaluokta turned out to be a very fortunate choice for us but for a reason that we didn’t even consider: the wind.

A Trek on Kungsleden Begins

After the 2-hour bus ride from the airport in Kiruna, we finally arrived at the Sami village of Nikkaluokta. You couldn’t ask for a better launching pad for a weeklong adventure. Here you can camp or take it easy in the cabins, enjoy some excellent food in the village restaurant, and stock up on last minute supplies. We began our first day with a huge buffet breakfast, organized our gear, and hit the trail. The weather was perfect: maybe 40 degrees with a little bit of fog hanging in the huge river valley. The beginning of the trail winds through a beautiful birch forest painted in golden fall colors. We were so excited to finally be on the trail after months of planning and preparing.

There is a boat ride that you can take across the massive Lake Ladjujavri. Did we want to save some time and energy on day one and take the boat or take the longer route and hike along the lake? We decided to pick up the pace and see if we could reach the lake before the 10:45 a.m. departure. We arrived just in time to catch the boat, but that left no time to grab a burger from the Sami version of the Golden Arches known as “Lapdånalds.” As we crossed the lake, massive mountain peaks seemed to appear from the clouds. After a snack, we headed west toward the mountain station at Kebnekaise, Sweden’s tallest mountain. Just before we arrived we parted ways and I headed up the rugged valley to spend the night surrounded by the glaciers at Tarfala. It’s a short but rocky 6 kilometer hike to Tarfala but well worth the trip. If you’d like the full amenities at Kebnekaise, camp there or stay in the cabins where you can have a nice dinner and access supplies from the store. Kebnekaise is worth the trip alone and you could easily explore the region for a week or more.

After meeting Gunnar and Simona at the Kebnekaise cabins on the morning of day two, we headed west and took in the expansive valley before us. It wasn’t long before we started to encounter small herds of reindeer. The Sami still manage the reindeer throughout the region, but at various times of the year the reindeer are on the move. Dominating the view to the north for much of the day’s hike was the volcano shaped mountain peak known as Tuolpagorni, Sweden’s most photographed peak. Now it really felt as if we were in the wild Arctic that we had been dreaming about! We would find ourselves at the cabins in Singi at the end of day two and I enjoyed sleeping under a bright moon that lit the landscape like a spotlight. I peeked out of the tent several times during the night but didn’t see any green waves dancing across the sky. Would we be lucky enough to catch the northern lights later on?

I found navigation was straightforward and route finding not too difficult since we travelled through wide river valleys. The trail is marked by stone cairns in most places. We did still carry the BD6 map and a compass. The trail is extremely rocky in stretches so we appreciated the right footwear. Think somewhere between a rugged trail shoe and lightweight hiking boot.

After a great night at Singi we enjoyed seeing some ptarmigan that were already getting decked out in their winter white plumage. A bit further up the trail, we were stopped by a pair of ermine who wanted to check us out. With such an exciting start to our day, we were very eager to be headed toward Sälka, known as the most beautiful location for huts in the entire STF (Swedish Hiking Organization) system. Arriving at Sälka, we were not disappointed. The cabins are situated at an intersection of river valleys and surrounded by beautiful mountain peaks. There is a nice sauna at Sälka and even a small store. It was here that we met Rob from Ireland who incredibly was taking the same route but was mountain biking and hiking. It was unthinkable to us that someone could bike over this kind of rocky terrain. Rob also turned out to be a bit of a gourmet cook and prepared some incredible meals each night. Hanging out in the cabins at night, even if you’re camping up the trail is highly recommended. We met so many amazing people from all around the world. Each cabin complex has a shared dining area and kitchen. So all you need to pack is food and clothes, no need for tent, sleeping bag or cookware. My friends traveled ultralight and had packs that weighed less than 15 pounds for the entire week. That’s the way to go!

The beautiful Tjäktja pass would await us the next day. It’s the highest point on the entire Kungsleden and offers amazing views to the north and south of the Tjäktja valley. The climb up to the high point is a little steep but can be managed in 30 minutes or so. There is a small hut at the top to take a break from the weather if needed. As we left the pass, the weather turned a bit and we had our first taste of cold and rainy Arctic conditions. In fact, the wind was blowing so hard that by the time we reached the cabins at Tjäktja, I had to pitch my tent below a small ridge and weigh the stakes down with small boulders just to keep from getting blown away. It was a good night of story telling in the cabins as we swapped tales from previous adventures with fellow trekkers from around the globe.

It didn’t take long for us to realize the good fortune of our decision to hike from Nikkaluokta to Abisko. The wind was blowing 30 mph or more for the entire hike to Alesjaure but, thankfully for us, it was at our backs. We really felt for the hikers going the opposite direction: progress was painfully slow for them. Because of the weather, we took breaks behind large boulders and enjoyed the scenic and rolling terrain dotted with herds of reindeer. Alesjuare surprised us quite a bit with a nice coffee shop and supply kiosk. The wind was still strong though, and I had to pitch my tent below a ridge and under a patch of alders just to get out of the gusty conditions. It was an entertaining night listening to my buddy Gunnar go back and forth with a group of Danish hikers on a range of topics, including soccer, of course.

At 22 kilometers, the hike from Alesjaure to Abiskojaure would be the longest distance we would cover. The day started with rain, sleet, and snow, but remarkably, within 15 minutes the sun magically appeared. As we approached Abiskojaure, we left the stark and rocky terrain and descended down into the colorful birch forest again. Abiskojaure is about as ideal of a place to camp and explore as you can imagine. The cabins are tucked into a forest next to an enormous lake and you can also enjoy a sauna and resupply with food from the kiosk. It would be here that we experienced the northern lights for the first time. Even though the surreal display was short lived, it was an experience I won’t soon forget. Seeing the green waves of light glowing in the night sky is just hard to describe.

Beautiful and expansive terrain became the norm while hiking Kungsleden.

The End of a Hike & Reflections on Kungsleden

The final days of a backpacking adventure are always a little bittersweet. We were excited to complete the hike and reach Abisko but didn’t want our time on the trail to end. Abisko would be well worth the wait. It’s known as one of the best places to take in the northern lights and is completely surrounded by birch forest next to Lake Torneträsk, which goes on for miles. Easily a place to spend a week or more exploring. After completing the hike, we enjoyed a fantastic meal at the restaurant and reflected on the trip. The only thing we could think of to do differently is simply take more time. There’s a lifetime to explore in the region but with so many valleys and off trail experiences you will want to take two weeks or more to make the most of the magical hike from Nikkaloukta to Abisko.

Need to Know

Information

No permits are needed to hike the Kungsleden. A discount card for staying in the cabins is available through the STF. You cannot reserve cabins in advance. Mountain stations that are beginning and end points along the trail like Nikkaluokta and Abisko do take reservations. It is not possible to book buses in advance. Buses do go directly to and from the Kiruna airport to Nikkaluokta and Abisko. You can pay the bus driver the fare as you board. We took bus #91 and #92 from Kiruna to Nikkaluokta. Departed at 2 p.m. and arrived at 4 p.m. – the return bus from Abisko departed at 11:25 and arrived at 1:30.

Getting There

From Stockholm, it’s an hour and a half flight to Kiruna. From Kiruna you can take a 2-hour bus ride to either Nikkaluokta or Abisko.

Best Time to Go

Early September to avoid most mosquitoes and take in the fall colors.

Maps

BD-6 Abisko-Kebnekaise-Narvik Fjällkartan by Lantmäteriet

Books

Kungsleden: The Royal Trail through Arctic Sweden as well as Trekking the Kungsleden and the Kungsleden Travel Guide.

Editor's Note: This article by contributor Dusty Doddridge originally appeared in Issue 22 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.