The Paradise area (5400') sits on the southern flank of Mount Rainier National Park in the direct path of winter storms coming off the Pacific. At 5,400 feet, it receives an average of 53 feet of snowfall a year, and a snowpack at the height of winter that can exceed 15 feet. A road is maintained to the Sunrise area throughout the winter, allowing direct access for day trippers, but also those wishing to snow camp. The road closes each night at 5 PM requiring an earlier departure from Paradise to reach the gate, and opens at 9 AM. Frequently gate opening is delayed (or may not occur at all) if snow has fallen overnight.

Due to these gate limitations, time on the mountain can be short. For those who wish to maximize their daylight hours in winter and avoid access issues following nighttime snowfall, snow camping provides an opportunity to have a base camp to the virtually unlimited snowshoe and cross country skiing opportunities that Paradise affords. In addition, given the heavy use of the area for sledding and snowshoeing during the day, the quiet and solitude between road closing and opening for campers is a very special wilderness experience in itself that few experience.

Winter Camping on Rainier (Paradise Area)

Once a minimum of 4-5 feet of snowpack is present (December to January), individuals and groups can obtain free winter camping permits for designated areas around Paradise. The number of permits are limited to avoid overcrowding. There are 3 locations set aside for snow camping. Two (Paradise Inn and Guide House Camps) are within 100 yards of the parking lot, a heated bathroom and a tunnel with communications. The second (Deadhorse Creek Basin) is more remote, requiring a 1/3 mile walk from the parking lot. The difficulty reaching these camping areas varies with conditions; at times boots are sufficient while at other times snowshoes or skis are best due to deep snow. For those who do not frequently camp during winter and are piecing together a warmer and bulkier kit, use of an improvised sled such as a cement mixing tub with rope and bungees to add capacity can often be helpful.

Winter camping is in fact permitted anywhere in the park as long as there is 2 feet of snow (outside Paradise). Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for convenient overnight parking. For those with interest in greater solitude and a desire to stretch their legs, another option is to ski or snowshoe along the winter closed section of the park's road system approximately 600 vertical feet below Paradise near Narada Falls (4800'). This area provides outstanding views of the mountain, ample camping spots alongside Reflection Lakes, and overnight parking. A wilderness permit is required, and can be obtained at Longmire or Paradise Ranger Stations.

Shelter Methods

I have camped at Paradise three times with my son's Boy Scout troop. The shelters used have varied widely. Tents have been used, but the greatest fun is to use the abundant snow. The snow shelters have varied from an igloo, snow caves, various variations on snow trenches, and even a simple open tree pit. These shelters take time to construct (particularly an igloo) and due to the generally short day length and late access to the mountain due to road opening time, much of a day can be spent in experimenting in their construction and fitting them out. The shelter type(s) that work best depends on current upper snow pack conditions.

Snow can be compressed or light and unstable for several feet of depth. Flexibility, creativity and patience are required to find the right location and design. Blue tarps, old tent poles, snow shovels, ice saws and even an umbrella can all be used to good effect depending on the design and conditions. A night in a snow shelter is surprisingly comfortable due to the insulating properties of snow. The key is managing the location, orientation and design of the entrance so as to minimize cold air access from the outside.

My personal favorite design is an enlarged snow trench where the extended span (enough for 2 people) is accommodated by using ski poles and old tent poles in a crossing matrix where contact points are reinforced by tying dental floss, then covered with a tarp or other plastic sheeting and snow used on the edges to hold the tarp in place. As night freezes up a very solid roof structure is formed.

Other Rainier Snow Camping Techniques

After the work of building a snow shelter, I always like to bring a change of clothes or two to have something dry to change into. Weather is highly dynamic at Paradise, clear skies can change to white out conditions within minutes. While snow is the norm, rain is not uncommon from what is often referred to as a "pineapple express". Rain on snow changes the camping dynamic considerably, and can make the close access to civilization (vehicle) a welcome reprieve.

In regards to food and water I like to hydrate and prepare simple dehydrated meals or canned foods that are easily heated up. Fires of course are not allowed. Isobutane backpacking stoves will work most of the time, though white gas is perhaps the most sure bet. I like to bring extra food in case a storm closes the road for an extra day. The Paradise area is frequently by the Cascade fox that is habituated to winter campers. Solid food containers are required, and are provided by Rangers upon request, though they have a limited supply. Seeing fox shadows at dusk as they scope out your evening preparations, and their numerous footprints the next morning are long remembered memories of any winter stay on the mountain. For those looking for a different winter adventure literally in big snow, Paradise is your ticket.

Need to Know

Information

The Paradise area is provides unlimited snowshoe and cross country skiing opportunities, and the designated sledding hill is a compacted surface for tubers and soft sleds. Paradise is also the starting point for climbs to Camp Muir. For more information see the park website winter recreation page.

Getting There

Access to Paradise during winter is from the west side only, via Highway 7 (from Tacoma) or 161 (Sumner/Orting). Winter road conditions are likely to be present.

Best Time to Go

Day length is a critical factor in winter that impacts the time you have to enjoy the mountain. When the sun goes down there is little left to do but get inside your shelter and wait for the dawn. For this reason I recommend snow camping from mid-February through mid-March. Cold temperatures will obviously be likely. As March is reached, while days are longer, rain and warmer temperatures can also be a factor. With fresh bright snow there seems to always be plenty of sun exposure. Towards the end of March the Park eventually closes down winter camping as spring approaches. Regardless of your timing, it is best to keep your plans flexible, as it is possible that heavy snows can close the road for several days at most any time. A phone call to the Park for their recommendations when requesting a permit reservation is helpful for up to date info.

Maps and Books

Mount Rainier National Park, Trails Illustrated. For guidebooks refer to Hiking Mount Rainier National Park as well as Best Easy Day Hikes Mount Rainier National Park.

Editor's Note: This article by contributor Jim Grob originally appeared in Issue 26 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.