When a trip has great scenery, plenty of lakes with nice-sized trout, and hardly any crowds it seems to be worth repeating – even if that means leaving some other destinations on my “places to hike list” for another year. Fall weather had arrived – and with snow already falling in the high country (but fortunately not sticking in most places, at least not yet), I found myself getting rather anxious about which trips to wrap up the backpacking season with. Internal discussions about prioritizing fishing over fall foliage, cranking out the miles, or appreciating a solitary evening at a lake accessed only by slow-going cross-country travel, and exploring new terrain versus returning to old favorites occur almost ceaselessly once the leaves start to turn and the days start to get shorter.

After much handwringing and map reading, I decided that for a three-night mid-September trip, I would repeat a trip I had done almost exactly one year ago. This trip checked most of the boxes that I use for determining a good backpacking trip – it was relatively uncrowded (by Montana standards, for most of the rest of the country it would probably be considered abandoned), had great fishing, the trails were in reasonable condition, and it was close enough to get there and back in one tank of gas. And despite having done the same route last year, there were still a few side trips that I hadn’t checked out – a lake with brook trout and a minor highpoint above a pass crossed by the trail were ones I hoped to make time for on this outing.

As a point-to-point hike, this trip required the minor logistical consideration of arranging a shuttle. Last year, I was able to get a ride from one trailhead to another after having a friendly conversation with a bowhunter who was headed home. Not wanting to count on luck twice, I brought my bicycle with me and was able to set up the shuttle myself. The two trailheads were only around 7 miles apart and the ride took me just over thirty minutes and gave my legs a great warm-up for the 8 mile hike with 2,000 feet of elevation gain that would take me past three lakes to my first night’s campsite.

It was a perfect morning for a bike ride, sunny, calm, and temperatures in the low 50s. By setting this up as a point-to-point hike, I would be able to hike 22 miles without backtracking and pass by a half-dozen lakes (five with trout in them) and have an easy three-mile spur trip to a seventh lake from a basecamp that I would stay at the second and third days of the trip. By my math, that’s well worth the effort of riding a bike for a half-hour and not being limited to an out-and-back hike.

A Hike in the Pioneer Mountains Begins

I set out just after noon on the familiar path that led through lodgepole pines to a lovely meadow with a meandering stream and mountains rising above the forest in the background. A steady climb on switchbacks up sagebrush slopes let me know I would indeed be earning the scenery that was to come, before it leveled out into a gentle and easy to follow footpath through pleasant coniferous forest. A few patches of snow from an early season snowfall two days earlier let me know that winter was on its way, but fortunately most of the snow was relegated to the shadier patches and none of the snowmelt had caused the trail to get muddy. Crossing a creek at the five-mile mark started the steepest stretch of trail to the first lake and, eager to get a fly on the water, I started hiking after a short break with a renewed energy.

After reaching the lake I walked along the faint path along its shore, passing the remnants of former cabins, and stopped at a nice rock that would allow for a decent backcast to toss my fly onto the glassy waters that reflected stunning mountains above and which contained beautiful trout below. There are some starts to the fishing part of a backpacking trip that are almost too good to be true – in this case, on my first cast a 12-inch cutthroat trout bit into my fly within seconds and I landed my first fish of the trip within less than two minutes of dropping my pack and taking out my rod. I use a Tenkara set up for fly fishing, which foregoes a reel and instead uses a longer rod and a fixed length of line. Although this does have its limitations, it is unsurpassed in its ability to quickly set up and have a fly on the water in under a minute. On trips with friends who use traditional fly rods, I’m often landing fish before they’re even ready to cast.

My good luck continued at the first lake and I caught another half-dozen fish within an hour. The sun was slowly descending and I knew that despite the great fishing I should head on to the upper lake in this chain and then traverse over to the third lake of the day and where I would camp. The trail to the upper lake ascended, as one would expect, on a pleasant trail and I found myself on the lakeshore within 15 minutes of leaving the first lake.

On my two previous visits to this lake, I had not caught a fish – so I had a bit of a White Whale/Captain Ahab complex in regard to this body of water. On my first attempt at this lake, I had two large fish break my line. On my second, I didn’t even have a bite. The third time was a charm and I landed a 10-inch rainbow trout within a few casts. It was a bit of a pyrrhic victory as that would be the only trout I caught at that lake and the last fish I caught until the third day. Pleased with having caught a fish and being able to strike the “zero” from that lake, I headed over to the third lake where last September I had one of my best days of backcountry fishing – over 10 trout in two hours, all 12 to 16 inches long.

A snowy patch on the path to the third lake was imprinted with bear tracks. Black bears are not uncommon in the Pioneers and grizzlies are slowly beginning to enter the range from the Yellowstone area, so I made sure to take proper food storage and took my bear spray. Fortunately, the Pioneers don’t see too much use from campers so generally speaking, it is less likely that bears will become as habituated compared to some other areas in regards to acquiring food from humans.

I quickly set up camp at the third lake and headed down to the lakeshore to try to repeat my success from the previous year. My efforts proved fruitless, however, and although I did see several fish rising none were interested in the veritable buffet of dry flies that I so delicately sat upon the water for them to examine. I ceased my efforts shortly after sunset and enjoyed a hearty dinner as a perfect crescent moon crept up from behind the mountains and across the sky.

A crisp and sunny morning was perfect for a leisurely start to the day. Coffee, breakfast, and an hour of unsuccessful fishing occurred before I broke down camp and continued north on my hike. Although this route in the East Pioneers has become one of my favorite backpacking trips, its one flaw is that you must lose roughly half the elevation you gained on the first day at the start of the second day before climbing about 1,500 feet in 1.5 miles on a faint and steep trail to an unnamed pass. The junction for this trail is unsigned and the trail itself is in good condition despite not seeing regular maintenance. It passes by a small but exceedingly scenic lake which is the only lake on this route without fish. Since the lake is fishless and not on a main trail, it is an excellent place to camp at if you’re looking for solitude and don't want to fish.

At the pass above the lake, which is so scenic it graces the cover of the only hiking guidebook for the Pioneers, you have breathtaking views down to two lakes and several of the peaks in this part of the range, as well as toward the distant peaks of the Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness. I’d been tempted by the unnamed summits to the east and west of this pass but had bypassed them when I’d gone over this pass on other trips. With clear skies and plenty of energy to spare, I stashed my pack and quickly scrambled up the 400 feet to the eastern highpoint. I typically don’t get “summit fever” but I was eager to reach the top and soak in the views. I was not disappointed when, after more effort than I thought would be required, I reached the top. I could see the Lost River Range in Idaho, the Beaverhead Mountains along the Montana and Idaho border, and all the way to the Bitterroot Mountains that are only a few miles from my home. I could also look down and see the lakes I would be fishing and camping at that evening, as well as two lakes that I’d fished on previous trips but wouldn’t be making it to on this trek. I soaked in the view for almost a half-hour before the chilly breeze made me realize I’d be more comfortable descending to the pass and making my way to camp.

There were a few small snow drifts along the trail as I followed it from the pass to the large lake where I would camp, but nothing that required postholing. It was late in the afternoon when I reached a beautiful campsite sheltered by trees, but still early in the evening for fishing. I was able to set up camp quickly and then headed down with my fly rod to a lower lake about a half-mile away. My plan was to fish that lake, then return via the opposite shore of the lake where I was camping.

I’d had great success at both lakes last September, catching several 16-inch trout at each and not having to go more than 10 or 20 minutes without a strike on a dry fly. Unfortunately for me, my luck from the last lake continued and I didn’t catch any fish at either lake during my first night there. Easing the disappointment somewhat was the fact that not many fish were rising – at least they weren’t taunting me. As I walked back to camp along the lakeshore, I noticed one tent nearby and waved to the couple that occupied the campsite. These would be the only other people I would see until the last day, when I encountered a group of four that were heading in to set up a hunting camp for a week.

Since I would be camping at the same spot again and didn’t need to break camp, I was able to get an earlier start on my third day. My destination was a small lake a few hundred feet lower from where I was camped and about a mile away. Although not one of the “premier” lakes for fishing in the Pioneers, this lake was reported to have a healthy population of brook trout. I arrived late in the morning and it seemed my luck had returned – within a few casts I had a feisty trout on the line. In my loop around the lake I would catch a fish every few minutes and, while none were trophy-sized, it felt great to get back in the groove of casting and catching fish.

On my way back to camp, I stopped to fish the lakes near camp where I had been so successful the previous year but had such disappointment the day before. More fish were rising than the previous evening and within a few minutes I had my first trout on the line, a nice-sized cutthroat. After that, I went for almost an hour with no strikes. I changed up my flies and tolerated the chilly waters and waded in to extend my casting range. Just as I was contemplating moving over to the other lake, I caught the largest fish of the trip – a beautiful cutthroat around 15 inches. With my zest for angling renewed, I scouted around and saw an even bigger fish cruising the shallows nearby.

I aimed to drop my fly a few feet in front of the fish and my aim was spot on. With no particular hurry, the fish eased up to my fly and causally pulled it underwater. I set the hook and began trying to land perhaps the largest fish I’d ever hooked into. After a frantic minute or two, I had the fish close enough to try to net. It was all for naught, however, as between my precarious perch on a rock jutting into the lake, the strength of the fish, and the gracelessness of my attempts at netting, the fish was able to break free and swim off into the depths.

Discouraged but not defeated, I headed back towards camp and made a few casts into the lake along the way. I was rewarded in my endeavors by a small rainbow trout and, wanting to end on a high note, headed back to camp to wind down my last night in the mountains. After dinner I walked down to the lake to appreciate the stars as the night was exceptionally clear. My timing was perfect, as a shooting star streaked across the sky and was reflected on the lake when I neared the shore. I admired the starscape for a few minutes, which included another beautiful shooting star, before heading into my tent and enjoying another night of rest breathing in fresh mountain air.

The Hike Out

I awoke early and was finished packing when the sun rose over the mountain and cast its rays on the trail. After a brief stop to fish at the lake on my way out, with no success, I hiked along one of the most beautiful sections of trail on the route – a lovely mile above treeline with great views. After reaching a small saddle, the trail began a committed descent for several miles and lost almost 3,000 feet of elevation along the way. Several intriguing rock formations and nearby peaks provided nice distractions during the hike out. Back at the car, I was able to relish in another trip well-done – even if it was one I’d done before, it was one worth doing again.

Need to Know

The Pioneer Mountains are located in southwestern Montana's Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest. Although a fairly small range by Western standards, the Pioneers have plenty of opportunities for adventure. The taller and more rugged East Pioneers are separated from the lower and more timbered West Pioneers by the Wise River Scenic Byway, which provides access to forest roads and trailheads.

Best Time to Go

June to October are the prime months for hiking in the Pioneers, although lingering snowpack and early season snowfalls vary from year to year.

Maps and Books

The National Forest map offers an overview for trip planning and the Delorme Montana Atlas & Gazetteer can help with getting to and from the trailhead. In regards to books see Exploring Montana's Pioneer Mountains as well as Hiking Montana and 100 Classic Hikes Montana.

For more on the Pioneers, see the previous post: Backpacking the Pioneer Mountains of Montana.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 49 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.