The Goat Rocks wilderness is located in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest of Washington, between the Mount Adams wilderness and Mount Rainier National Park. The remnant of an old volcano which stood at over 12,000 feet is now an area of alpine scenery with many peaks over 8,000 feet. The wilderness contains 105,000 acres and I’ve hiked through this area a few times before, but recently I made a trip into the backcountry to camp and walk a bit of a wilderness trail loop.

The protection for this region has been in place for a long time since February 13, 1931, when it was first established at the Goat Rocks Primitive Area. The acreage protection grew and Goat Rocks was listed early as wilderness with the passage of the Wilderness Act in 1968.

A Backpacking Loop in the Goat Rocks Wilderness

The Goat Rocks offers many beautiful trails and I decided on a loop, beginning the trip at trail number 96 near Chambers Lake. The path from the parking area passes through a mossy forest and low brush, but soon connects with the Pacific Crest Trail that quickly launches into the high country offering views of some stunning vistas. On the way to the alpine country I passed many of the best wildflower areas too, such as Snowgrass Flats. This area offers meadows thick with lupine, beargrass, and Indian paintbrush. But the wildflowers were stunted due to a cool summer, so I’ll be back to view them again in a warmer year. For witnessing the peak of the wildflower bloom, a trip here in early to mid-August is the best time to travel.

Like most mountain areas, mosquitoes can be a problem in late July to mid-August. The higher areas are less bothersome due to cooler temperatures and a perpetual breeze. By late August the temperatures are cool enough to have killed off most of the insects, and in September there are often clear skies with an occasional frost or dusting of snow. Visiting earlier than mid-July will be difficult due to snowpack, so bring the proper equipment. Wilderness permits can be picked up at the parking lot kiosk, and are free for those taking day hikes or overnight backpacking trips. A Northwest Forest Service Pass is needed to park your car in many trailhead parking areas.

The high country offers a number of knife ridges just off and along the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Camping near Packwood glacier allows views of the surrounding Cascade volcanoes, like Mount Adams, Mount Saint Helen’s and Mount Rainier, with distant views of Glacier Peak and the North Cascades. A backcountry shelter once stood near the crossing of Packwood Glacier, but time and the elements have collapsed the beams years ago, and now not much remains except for a bundle of wood. Even without the shelter, camping can still be found here amongst the stunted pine. Nearby creeklets flow from the surrounding snowfields, so there is plenty of water. In a good year, blooms of beargrass stretch from here seemingly to Mount Adams miles away.

Years ago I walked through this high country during a snowstorm and passed by two shaved and hypothermic llamas wrapped in shiny space blankets. They looked like a couple of extra-terrestrials trying to make first contact. The llamas survived the night and looked no worse-for-wear in the morning. From the location near Packwood Glacier a spur trail climbs to the top of 7,930 foot Old Snowy that supplies views over many of the surrounding peaks and glaciers in this incredible wilderness. A walk along the PCT from here follows a ridge on clear trail with perpetual snow fields dropping off on either side. The crest trail will drop you down to White Pass, which is a great place to start an adventure into the Goat Rocks, and also a resupply point if you’re planning a longer hike on the PCT.

Continuing on my loop, I stopped off at Goat Lake which is usually frozen over into mid-August. Here is a fantastic spot to view a sunset warming the peak of Old Snowy, or to see sunrise reflections off the mountain cirque into the ice-covered Goat Lake. This is also a good place to observe mountain goats, and I spotted more than 40 above the lake on my last trip. Marmots and pika are common in the area too, and while descending Goat Ridge I came face-to-face with a wolverine on the trail. Since fewer than 400 remain in the lower 48, I considered my sighting fortunate.

Departing Goat Lake early in the morning, I continued on my loop to watch the sunrise along Goat Ridge. The ridge stays high in the alpine scenery, but the valleys drop off immediately to reveal gaping views of the distant Mount Adams. Descending from here, there are a few reflective tarns with views of Mount Saint Helens and the often-cloudy valleys below. I completed my loop and my trip with a steep descent along trail 95 through woodlands and meadows, which offered wildflower viewing opportunities.

When I returned to my car, I felt refreshed and thankful for all that I’d seen. A few hours along a dirt road returned me home, and the photos I took along the way will always remind me of a trip to a place I love.

Need to Know

Information

The area is managed by the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, 360-891-5000. A free backcountry permit can be obtained at the trailhead kiosk. A Northwest Forest Service Pass is needed to park your car at the trailhead parking area during your stay.

Getting There

From the north access can be made from Highway 12 to a number of trailheads, or you can take the drive connecting road FR21 to climb alongside Goat Rocks for more trail access. From the south, drive north out of the town of Trout Lake to FR23 past Mount Adams and connect to FR21 to a myriad of forest roads and different points of trail access. An atlas such as the Delorme Washington Atlas & Gazetteer can help with getting to and from the trailhead.

Maps and Books

I used a Goat Rocks Wilderness map offered by the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. National Geographic offers a Trails Illustrated map and Green Trails also offers their Goat Rocks Wilderness map.

The guidebook 100 Hikes in Washington's South Cascades and Olympics by Ira Spring and Harvey Manning covers the Goat Rocks Wilderness pretty well. Backpacking Washington by Craig Romano and the Backpacking Washington guidebook both cover hiking in the Goat Rocks Wilderness.

All images in this article © David M. Cobb Photography.

Editor's Note: This article by contributor David Cobb originally appeared in Issue of 7 TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content. See more of David’s photography at dmcobbphoto.com.