Lines drawn on a map are peculiar. Sometimes they follow terrain features and make complete sense. Oklahoma and Texas, for instance, are divided both politically and geographically by the Red River, a natural enough line of separation although its shifting, serpentine course has made boundary disputes a regular thing.

Other lines are more confusing, and seemingly arbitrary. One example is the region containing the “panhandles” of these two states. Oklahoma’s panhandle is a strip of land 166 miles long and 34 miles wide stuck between Texas and Kansas, marking the state's most extreme western reaches in a fashion that appears to make no geographical sense. There, Oklahoma reaches its highest elevation in a place where buttes, mesas, cholla cactus, and otherworldly sandstone formations create the feeling of a desert, in stark contrast to the grasslands and forests which distinguish most of the state’s landscape.

The Texas panhandle shares the eastern and western borders of the Oklahoma appendage of the same name, and runs south to form a square region encompassing a large segment the vast Llano Estacado, or “staked plains,” one of the largest mesas on the North American continent. Its flatness, unfortunately, is probably the most noticeable feature of the Texas panhandle for those traversing the region, once called “The Great American Desert,” at 80 miles per hour on Interstate 40.

The superficial plainness of these panhandles belies their hiking treasures. In the far northwest corner of the Oklahoma panhandle rises Black Mesa, spreading across invisible lines demarcating the limits of three states. And in the center of the Texas panhandle just south of Amarillo, a spectacular gorge named Palo Duro (meaning “hard wood” in Spanish) plunges up to 800 feet through the caprock of the Llano Estacado, creating the nation’s second largest canyon system.

Hiking Black Mesa

If you are westbound, both the Oklahoma and Texas panhandles begin near the 100th Meridian west, a line of longitude historically significant because it once served as the boundary between the United States and Mexico and later figured into various border definitions and disputes. The line also serves as the transition zone from the wetter eastern regions of the United States to the more arid climate of the west.

Driving to Black Mesa from my home in central Oklahoma requires a significant commitment of time. In fact, Texas is closer. A good stop for some local lore as one nears the end of the six to seven-hour journey is the Cimarron Heritage Center in Boise City, Oklahoma. From Boise City, it’s another forty miles northwest to Kenton on State Highway 325, then about five miles north on a county road to the trailhead at Black Mesa Nature Preserve, where a parking area is located near the gate which grants access to the footpath.

The trail to the 4,973-foot summit first winds around the base of the mesa through cholla cactus and scrubby junipers on a wide, open path. For two miles, the trail is relatively flat, then begins to climb rather steeply on a rocky, rutted old road. Once atop the mesa, it’s an easy, flat walk for the remainder of the 4.2-mile trip to the summit. The trail is sparsely marked but easy to follow for, once atop the mesa, an obelisk begins to come into view. The marker of pink granite signifies Oklahoma’s high point and, as a bonus, notes that the state’s low point is in its southeast corner at 287 feet of elevation.

You can register your achievement in a book stored in a cache at the base of the monument, but don’t turn around too soon. Spur trails to the mesa’s edges provide spectacular tri-state views of Colorado to the north, New Mexico to the west, and Oklahoma to the south. High winds and rattlesnakes are common on the rocky precipice. Another attraction near Black Mesa Trailhead are the fossilized dinosaur footprints across the road in North Carrizo Creek. And, the trip would be incomplete without stopping for selfies at the Tri-State Marker, which can be found north of Black Mesa.

The 1,600-acre Black Mesa Nature Preserve protects the mesa itself and camping is not allowed there, but is available about fifteen miles southeast at Black Mesa State Park. Idyllic tent sites along South Carrizo Creek await visitors to the park, and sandstone formations nearby beg to be explored. Within the park, the one-mile Vista Trail along the canyon rim and several short nature trails offer more hiking opportunities. With some of the country’s darkest nighttime skies on publicly accessible land, the park is also popular with stargazers. For a slightly more civilized form of repose, there are also several guest houses in the Black Mesa area. It’s only a short distance to more hiking opportunities in the area. Just north of the Colorado border, both Picture Canyon and Carrizo Canyon have some surprises of their own. See the story in Issue 35.

Hiking Palo Duro Canyon

Public access to Palo Duro Canyon is facilitated through Palo Duro Canyon State Park, located near Canyon, Texas. Seven miles of the western part of the gorge are contained within Palo Duro Canyon State Park. Hiking opportunities abound in the park, and repeat visits of multiple days may be needed to explore the canyon’s many secrets. The state park lists more than 30 miles of hiking, biking and equestrian trails, but unofficial trails provide additional adventure.

The Lighthouse formation is the canyon’s most iconic symbol. It’s a 300-foot red rock pinnacle accessed by an easy, highly trafficked trail about three miles one way. Easy, that is, until you get to the base of the formation. If you want to climb up top for a good view, it’s a steep scramble but well worth the effort.

The informal trails around the Lighthouse are a good example of the web of paths across the canyon leading through mesquite, cottonwood, and thick patches of prickly pear cactus, and off to interesting sights such as caves and slot canyons. You won’t find most of this in park literature or hear it acknowledged by park staff, but some of the most rewarding exploration in Palo Duro comes from getting off trail. One easy slot is “Gypsum Slot,” located along the Equestrian Trail. The “Big Cave,” which is on the park map, is a popular destination and understandably so. Get there early in the day to beat the heat and the crowds.

Most of the park’s trails are interconnected so it’s easy to put together some long miles through the stunning red rock scenery. One such hiking loop on the western side of the park starts at the Givens, Spicer, Lowry Trailhead and incorporates the Little Fox Canyon Trail, Lighthouse Trail, and Paseo del Rio Trail for approximately 10 miles of easy to moderate hiking. The 3.5-mile Capitol Peak Trail is in the same vicinity, but is restricted to mountain biking. Most trails are multi-use.

On the eastern side of the canyon, the Rock Garden Trail gains 600 feet of elevation through an ancient rock slide up to the canyon rim and the Rylander Fortress Cliff Trail, which has multiple spurs to the cliff edge. It is possible, however, and much more scenic, to simply walk along the edge for most of the way, enjoying panoramic views of the surroundings. The Fractures in the Rock spur provides a good spot for a break before returning to the canyon floor. Descending from the rim, Rock Garden intersects with the Lower Comanche Trail, which provides a stark contrast to the rim above as it winds along beneath the face of Fortress Cliff, around hoodoos and other odd rock formations, and through the occasional spot of shade. Combining these and other spurs and side trails, it’s easy to rack up 10 or so miles. Speaking of shade, there really isn’t much, and this is not the best place to hike in the summer, although many people do. Winter is ideal, as those pesky rattlesnakes are less active and the temperatures are often mild.

Palo Duro Canyon State Park offers plenty of camping, including backcountry campsites, and there is ample lodging in nearby Canyon, Texas, which is also home to the Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum. Nearby Caprock Canyons State Park is another panhandle treasure. Though not quite as grand in scale as Palo Duro, it has its own charm, and also boasts a 64-mile rails-to-trails pathway extending from Caprock Canyons to the Texas town of Estelline.

The adage, “There’s more here than meets the eye,” is certainly true in the case of the panhandle regions of Texas and Oklahoma. Taking the time to explore these seemingly empty parcels of land can yield great rewards.

Need to Know

Information

Entry is free to Black Mesa Nature Preserve and Black Mesa State Park. Entry to Palo Duro Canyon State Park is $8 per day for adults. Children 12 and under are free. It’s advisable to buy day passes in advance, especially on weekends. Summers are hot in the Texas Panhandle and, on the floor of Palo Duro Canyon, temperatures can reach upwards of 120 degrees F. Trailheads at Palo Duro actually feature sunscreen dispensers and thermometers. At Black Mesa Preserve, you are 40 miles from the nearest town with services (Boise City, OK or Campo, CO). Kenton is closer but has no services, not even gasoline. Top off your fuel tank before you get there and bring whatever food you need. More information on Black Mesa can be found here.

Best Time to Go

Late fall, winter, early spring. Heat and rattlesnakes make summer a less pleasant time to visit.

Getting There

Black Mesa – From the Oklahoma City area, Black Mesa is about 400 miles to the northwest on a combination of Interstate 40 and secondary highways. From Amarillo, Texas, Black Mesa is about 170 miles north, primarily on U.S. Highway 287. Palo Duro Canyon – From Interstate 40 in Amarillo, Texas, follow Interstate 27 south 17.5 miles to Texas 217. Palo Duro Canyon State Park is 10.3 miles east.

Books and Maps

Oklahoma Hiking Trails, Kent Frates and Larry Floyd, and the Hiking Texas guidebook, Laurence Parent. The Delorme Atlas and Gazetteer for Oklahoma as well as the Texas Atlas & Gazetteer can be useful for driving to and for exploring the areas around these panhandle destinations.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 50 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.