Hiking along the Ramsey Cascades trail in the Greenbrier region of the Smokies, my good friend and hiking partner Mark, froze in his tracks. “Bear!” he said in the loudest whisper he could manage. There was indeed a large, dark mass about 40 yards up the trail and was difficult to see what it was doing in the low, dappled light at the end of the day. Not sure it was a bear, we walked forward a few steps and soon discovered the large black bear wasn’t moving, but turned out to be a shadow of a nearby boulder on the edge of the trail. Of course, I remind Mark of this every time we head out for our next adventure. What are friends for?

Over the years, Greenbrier has become a favorite region to hike and photograph while in the Smokies. Spring is an ideal time of year in Greenbrier with dogwoods, wildflowers and spring cascades coursing through the mossy green landscape. Summer brings the rhododendron bloom in June and late October, the golden canopy of fall color.

Hikes in Greenbrier

One of the very first hikes I discovered in the Smokies was Ramsey Cascades. It’s an 8-mile out and back hike with about 2,000 feet of elevation gain that includes some of the last remaining old growth forest in the park. In spring, around mid to late April, you’ll be treated to large patches of Dwarf Crested Blue Iris as soon as you leave your vehicle at the trailhead. Some of the largest patches of these colorful wildflowers grow along the first 1.5 miles of the trail which is an old Jeep road. Patches can grow to 30 feet long or more and are filled with the purple and green of these amazing wildflowers. The hike along the Jeep road is easier than some other Smokies trails and slightly uphill, and you’ll enjoy creek views and forest dogwoods in the spring. The elevation gain on this section is about 500 feet so it’s a nice warmup for the trail ahead. Around mile 1.5 you’ll arrive at the Jeep road turnaround and get your first view of Ramsey Prong where it meets with Middle Prong of the Little Pigeon River. On heavy flow days in the spring, you might find kayakers making the most of the cascades on Middle Prong. The proper trail starts as you leave the turnaround and head up the valley.

As you gain elevation hiking along the Ramsey Prong, the trail is narrow in stretches and covered with lots of roots, slippery when wet! But it’s the towering trees that really make an impression on you. There are two giant Tulip Poplar trees that soar into the sky looking more like Redwoods in the Pacific. You’ll pass them on your left around mile 2.6, can’t miss them! You’ll also find near-record Silverbell trees as they cast off their bell shaped white blossoms in early spring just past the massive Tulip Poplars. Finally, after crossing the Ramsey Prong a few times along foot bridges, the trail becomes a little steep and rocky and this is your sign that the cascades are near. The cascade is 90 feet tall, the highest waterfall reachable by trail in the entire park. It can be crowded in the summer when the rhododendron are in bloom and hikers gather at the base of the cascade to cool off and enjoy a premium lunch spot before making the downhill return to the trailhead. A fantastic hike any time of year, though.

Porters Creek Trail also starts in the Greenbrier section of the park and is known as one of the top wildflower hikes in the spring. Porters Creek is also an out and back hike that is typically walked to Fern Branch Falls and back making it an easy, 4-mile round trip with only 500 feet of elevation gain as the old road climbs through the forest. Along the way you’ll have impressive views of Porters Creek and will likely lose count of wildflower varieties at 40 or more. Some of my favorites are Showy Orchis, Dwarf Crested Blue Iris and the rare but impressive Painted Trillium. Initially the trail is an old road bed like Ramsey Cascades but turns into a trail and crosses the creek on a footlog between two large boulders around mile 1.5. Here the density of wildflowers can be overwhelming. The forest floor can be completely white with Fringed Phacelia and Trillium and other varieties like Wild Geranium as you make your way to Fern Branch Falls, the typical turnaround point. Porters Creek also has plenty of dogwoods blooming in April and old “home places” worth exploring in this heavily settled area prior to the national park. A short, easy hike that offers a showcase of springtime beauty.

But often times, the best hikes aren’t even on the map. This would be the case for another hike not to miss in the Greenbrier area. Known locally as the Rhododendron Trail, you’ll find a small parking area with room for three cars as you drive downhill from the stop sign, before you reach the turn to Ramsey Cascades. The parking area and path into the woods is on the right and easy to miss if you’re not looking for it. One of my favorite waterfalls in the park, Triple Falls (unofficial name), only takes about 15 minutes of easy walking to reach. As you exit your vehicle from the small parking area, you’ll enter the forest with a small creek on your right. Follow this path through the forest and cross the creek when the path starts to fade at an open sand and gravel bar spot. You might not even need to get your feet wet.

After crossing the creek, continue slightly uphill and you’ll reach the first, small cascade. Then continue on just five more minutes and you’ll reach Triple Falls with a small downhill spur trail to the base of the falls. It is easy to spot. This is a fantastic place to photograph or simply enjoy the sights and sounds of a classic Smokies cascade. You can continue down the trail past triple falls for more forest hiking and cascades along the creek but Triple Falls will be the highlight and is only a 30 minute round trip from the parking area. Spring will also bring wildflowers and a carpet of ferns on the forest floor.

Fall colors usually bring big crowds to the high ridges with expansive views of the Smokies. Golden colors surrounding waterfalls and streams make for compelling photographs and peaceful hiking far away from the crowds up high and back in town. Moving into winter hiking becomes a bit tricky in the Smokies. Because there is so much vehicle traffic going through the park, when there is snow, the park service closes the roads so the park is difficult to access unless you are already in the backcountry. So, you have to be a bit lucky on the timing or have enough of a window to get to the backcountry in advance.

No matter the time of year you plan to visit, if you’re looking to escape the crowds at the overlooks and still have scenic hiking – from the fall color to the springtime wildflower displays and with more intimate views, then keep Greenbrier on your short list. And while you're out hiking those Greenbrier trails you're sure to see a few of those at first unidentified dark shadows among the forest, or maybe even a member of the healthy resident bear population themselves.

Need to Know

Information

Check the park website for detailed current park and road conditions. Reservations and permits are required for all overnight stays and backpacking trips, and camping is permitted only in designated sites / shelters.

Getting There

Drive 5 miles East of Gatlinburg on US 321 and turn right at the park sign to enter the Greenbrier section of the park. If your destination is Ramsey Cascades, you will turn left at the bridge around three miles from us 321. To get to the Porters Creek trailhead stay straight at the bridge and continue on to Porters Creek. The trail known locally as “Rhododendron Trail” will be just after going through the only stop sign and descending a short hill, the three parking spots will be on your right, before you reach the turn to Ramsey Cascades.

Best Time to Go

Mid April, Late October, Mid June, Winter (in my order of preference)

Distance

Ramsey Cascades (8 miles round trip to the cascades and back), Porters Creek (1.9 miles to Fern Branch Falls and back) Rhododendron Trail (1.5 miles round trip estimated)

Maps and Books

The National Geographic Trails Illustrated 229 map covers hiking in the area and the Great Smoky Mountains Natural History Association offers the title Hiking Trails of the Smokies. Additionally Hiking Great Smoky Mountains National Park offers more ideas on hikes throughout the park.

Editor's Note: This article by contributor Dusty Doddridge originally appeared in Issue 34 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.