The Tremont Lollipop Hike in the Great Smoky Mountains
The Smoky Mountains contain many remarkable places. Some areas convey rugged grandeur, others ancient elegance and beauty. This hike provides tastes of those things, but more significant than any of those features, it's one of the most calming, peaceful hikes I've enjoyed anywhere in the region. It may not be the most photogenic trail, but something about it draws me back again and again. I hike this trail more frequently than any other in the park, and I always leave wanting more. The soothing sound of the creek echoing through the trees, the songbirds and owls calling throughout the day, the lush forest completely saturated with all shades of green...it's pure Appalachian beauty. Although this is an outstanding hike for any time of year, I’m particularly fond of it in mid to late spring. This is what’s called a lollipop hike, as the first and last sections are the same trail. It’s a very goofy looking lollipop, but you get the idea…
Note that there is no bridge at the intersection with the Panther Creek Trail. In some seasons, this is a wide, deep, and powerful creek and / or if there's just been a lot of heavy rain. You can still have a great out-and-back hike if the water is too high. Before the national park was established, this area was heavily logged. In fact, you may find many remnants of its industrial past lying in the forest if you stray from the trail. Old leather boots, rusted out food tins, tractor parts...all manner of relics for the observant adventurer. Although you won't find much in the way of magnificent old-growth forests, this area has had around 75 years to recover from logging. I can assure you, it's a very beautiful place.
Hiking the Loop
The trailhead can be found at the end of the gravel road past the ranger station and the Tremont Research Institute. Your hike begins at an old steel bridge high above Lynn Camp Prong. There's a beautiful cascade here just before its confluence with Thunderhead Prong. After the bridge, take the Middle Prong Trail to the left. The right-hand path has been abandoned and is no longer maintained by the park. It dead-ends at a bend in the Thunderhead Prong after about 3/4ths of a mile. After a little less than a half mile, you'll pass several beautiful cascades on your left. The largest is a 30-foot slide that is commonly called Lower Lynn Camp Falls. More interestingly, I've heard it referred to as "Kick Yer Dog Falls". I wish I knew the origins of that name! White-water boaters will occasionally take on this beast when the water is up. Slightly less adventurous folks such as myself can make their way down the rocks to the creekside for a closer look at this raging cascade.
The vast majority of this trail keeps you close to the creek, which makes for many beautiful views. It's also popular among horse riders, so keep your eyes peeled for "landmines". Another noteworthy feature of the Middle Prong trail is its width. Many sections are wide enough to host two full car lanes. Although somewhat rocky in sections, this makes for a relatively easy trek. Right around two miles in, keep an eye out for a little path often marked by a small cairn. Follow this up the berm to see the rusted remains of a 1920's Cadillac, presumably belonging to someone from the long-vanished logging camp. Another mile down the trail reveals another relic: The remains of a brick fireplace previously attached to a homestead. Most of the column had fallen sometime in recent years, but it's still an interesting sight. You may also occasionally find railroad tracks popping up in a few places near here. This was the means of lumber conveyance back in the day.
Just shy of 4 miles, the trail leaves the creek and begins up via several switchbacks. Right around 4 miles, you’ll notice a narrow footpath to your right. Follow this a short distance and you'll find yourself at the lovely Indian Flat Falls. This is a beautiful spot to relax and grab a snack, or if you’re anything like me, take a whole bunch of pictures. Again, spring is my favorite time to take in this waterfall. There are sometimes wildflowers to be seen sprouting up in the small patches of dirt between the pooling water and the smooth granite. Note that In the winter, the rocks can develop a thin layer of slick black ice, and there's a significant drop (and another waterfall) at the far end of the flat. Once you’re gotten your fill of the waterfall, head back up the trail until you reach a 3-way intersection. Take the path on the left called Lynn Camp Prong.
I love this trail in the spring. The brilliant green understory here is simply magnificent. There are several springs and runoff streams that flow throughout, and they make the ground explode with spring growth. It's also a great spot for wildflowers if you time it correctly. The first section of this trail is a very easy stroll, being nearly flat in some places. After a mile and a half, you'll come to another intersection. This isn't another trail, but the short path to the backcountry campsite. Number 28, to be precise. You can hitch your horses if you brought them, or just set up a tent for the night. Like other backcountry sites, the only amenities provided are fire rings, a nearby (usually within a few hundred yards) water source, and rope/pulley systems for hanging food out of reach of bears and other hungry critters. If you're interested in staying the night, check out the park's reservations page for more info.
To continue hiking the Lynn Camp Prong Trail, hang a right at the trail marker for the last 2.7 miles. I'm tempted to say this section is the most challenging of the hike. You could certainly do a lot worse in this park, but it's a pretty good workout. You'll notice a significant change right away; it’s no longer a wide, easy, well-packed trail, but much more steep, rocky, muddy, and narrow. This is where it starts to feel like a proper hike in mountains. In late April, you're likely to see loads of white Trillium flowers lining the forest floor along with beautiful, fresh green foliage and unraveling ferns. This area is not often disturbed, so you're more likely to encounter wildlife. You're also likely to have it all to yourself. I've hiked this trail twice on beautiful, comfortable spring weekends, and not encountered a single other human over the entire 15 mile stretch.
That is pretty amazing considering Great Smoky Mountains National Park has the most annual visitors of all parks. However here you could be enjoying a pristine mountain all to yourself. If you look to your left while hiking up this slice of green paradise, you may observe a rather tall mountain looming in the distance. That's Miry Ridge, and you'll be there soon enough. I'll admit it's a bit intimidating to see your path high above you and far across the valley, but it's also fun to know you'll soon conquer it.
After a good amount of climbing, you'll reach the Lynn Camp Prong Trail terminus at the intersection with Miry Ridge Trail. As the name suggests, you'll be following a ridgeline. More wildflowers can be found here, with a particularly beautiful combination of Fringed Phacelia and White Trilium to be seen shortly after you begin the trail, assuming you're there in late April/early May. There are also stretches of soft, bright green grasses that flank your path. Since this trail is not frequently used, it can become over-grown at times. While this doesn't get bad enough to obscure the trail, the grasses can be saturated from morning dew or rain. I recommend employing some gaiters or rain pants here to keep your socks dry. Waterproof boots are useless when your socks get wet and wick water down to your feet!
The trend of steady ascent continues for about another mile and a half. The first section gradually transitions from a somewhat sheltered and lush forest to a more rugged ridgeline appearance, with less grasses and flowers and more wind and weather-enduring flora. After you crest the summit, the rest of the day is mercifully downhill. Soon you'll pass next to another backcountry campsite, #26. Passing through another blanket of green beauty, you’ll arrive at the next intersection. The Miry Ridge Trail terminates here, and leaves you with two options; Jakes Creek to the right or Panther Creek to the left. Hang a left and begin your descent.
The upper section of this trail is somewhat unremarkable. It's rocky, steep, and perhaps a little boring, but that changes after about a mile. Once you begin hearing the return of flowing water, the forest makes a gradual transition to the lush, green appearance of the lower elevations. Panther Creek is considerably smaller than Lynn Camp Prong, and you don't hike right next to it very often, but you can almost always hear it. The forest here has an open feel to it. Huge thickets of Mountain Laurel and Rhododendron tangle over the creek and provide a marked contrast in color to the canopy foliage towering high overhead. There are a few smaller creek crossings, and the final is easily the most beautiful. Brilliantly colored moss covers nearly all of the surrounding rocks, and a pair of small three-foot waterfalls provide a saturated area for all manner of plants to flourish. This is a great spot to have a break and just absorb all the sights and sounds of the forest. The crossing here can be a little soggy, and the creek tries to take over the trail for 50 feet or so. Last time, I put my sandals on here and wore them until the last crossing was complete.
Speaking of which, it's a short trek til we return to the intersection with the Middle Prong Trail, and you'll need to prepare to ford the Lynn Camp Prong. In dryer seasons it is typically low. In my experience, though, it's been a little more challenging than that. The great part about doing this as a photographer is that you're already going to get wet, so why not queue up the tripod for some unique shots? There is a chance to capture some very unique perspectives.
The Final Stretch
When you're ready to hit the last stretch, head back to the junction with the Middle Prong Trail, dry off, and hang a right. Since I'm a leisurely hiker, it's typically late afternoon by the time I'm heading out. There's a way the sunlight hits the sides of the trees in this area that seems to be unique. Maybe it's just my affinity for the park, but it has a golden glow that I haven't noticed elsewhere. Combined with the fresh green and the deep Tiger's Eye shades of brown in the creek bed, it’s about as pretty as a mountain forest can be. It's very difficult to capture all the nuances of light and color gradients on film, so I usually just stroll by and enjoy it as I finish out my day. The creek will serenade you all the way out. If you're anything like me, you'll be reluctant to leave it behind.
Information
Getting There
From the Townsend, TN "Y" intersection, turn right on to Laurel Creek Road. after about a quarter mile, turn left to Tremont Road. Pass the ranger station and Tremont Institute after 2 miles, and continue the last 3.1 miles on the gravel Upper Tremont Road to the parking area.
Maps & Books
The Trails Illustrated Great Smoky Mountains National Park map covers trails in the park. Hiking Great Smoky Mountains National Park as well as Hiking Trails of the Smokies offer guidebook options for the area.
Best Time to Go
Late March through Late May, or Late October/Early November for autumn colors.
All photographs in this article © Sean Sparbanie.
Editor's Note: This article by contributor Sean Sparbanie originally appeared in Issue 16 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.
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