The Great Divide Trail in the Canadian Rockies is the stuff dreams are made of. Remote grand mountainous wilderness, picturesque scenery, a level of solitude that’s rare to find these days, and that hint of anticipation and suspense that comes with hiking through grizzly country. There is definitely an intimidation factor that comes with hiking in the lesser traveled Canadian Rockies, but the secret is out, and the GDT is gradually becoming one of the most destined thru-hikes in the world.

The Great Divide Trail extends from the northern terminus of the Continental Divide Trail about 700 miles north into Canada.

The Great Divide Trail

The southern terminus for the GDT, at Waterton Lakes National Park, is also the northern terminus for the Continental Divide Trail (from Mexico to Canada in the US), and the eastern terminus for the Pacific Northwest Trail (from Montana to the Pacific Ocean). Northbound from Waterton Lakes, the GDT extends about 700 miles along the border that separates British Columbia and Alberta. Along the way, passing through many forest reserves and wilderness areas, 5 National Parks (including Banff and Jasper), and 7 Provincial Parks.

Given the information presented thus far, it’s hard to believe the GDT isn’t more traveled. That’s because there is a price to be paid to earn those rewards that the GDT can bring. There are a few main factors that impact the GDT and keep the crowds down. First of all, the GDT does not run near large cities or communities. There are nicely spread out resupply stops along the trail to send resupply boxes, but overall, the trail is relatively remote. I really enjoyed this aspect of the GDT, but it also impacts the quantity of resources and ability to maintain the trail.

Unlike the US, which has the National Trails Act, Canada does not have the degree of funding and laws that help to preserve and promote long trails. Given these challenges, the Great Divide Trail Association (GDTA), which is a fully voluntary association, has made great strides in the recent years in clearing and maintaining some of the most neglected sections. The GDT is not fully blazed nor maintained, and it never will be. The GDT is intended to have those undefined areas where you can freely roam cross-country through an alpine meadow or over mountain passes. That explorer aspect is the essence of the GDT that sets it apart from other long distance trails. There are many sections with clear trail, but there are just as many that are overgrown, contain downed trees, missing bridges, or marshy meadows. Combine this with the fact that some form of cold precipitation is likely many days, and you have a recipe for discomfort.

This is definitely not a trail for the pampered, but it is for those who enjoy the aspect of a more rustic experience with added challenges that promote solitude and independence. The weather is definitely the x-factor for the GDT. I'm not going to lie, there is rain, sleet, hail, and snow possible everyday on the GDT. There is no way to avoid it. For me and my hiking partner, the rain would usually be a light rain sometime overnight. We were thankful for that, and that it wasn't raining as much when we hiked. However, the rain did make all the thick brush along the trail wet, and the car wash effect took place on very cold mornings. Some days, we would be drenched with soaking wet shoes sometimes just minutes into the early morning hiking. Having dry shoes the second half of the hike was an anomaly. There is no avoiding it and trail runners or a lighter boot are your best bet if you ever want them to dry out.

The good news is that we were fortunate to have avoided foul weather where it mattered. What really makes the GDT amazing are the high route options. We considered the high routes to be the first option and threaded the needle many times just barely making the clear weather window. Sometimes, other hikers just a few days from us, were not as fortunate. Due to weather conditions, they were forced to stay low on the GDT where there was more overgrowth and soggy terrain. This is why the x-factor of the weather can strongly impact a GDT experience. Generally, the hiking window for the GDT is July-early September, but there really is no guarantee of ideal weather.

There is just something indescribable about the GDT that puts it on a whole other level. It’s a trail that makes you feel small in the best way possible. There is something about all the ingredients that come together to create a very rewarding and adventurous experience if all the chips fall correctly. That experience is only magnified when you’ve pushed through the cold rivers, fallen trees, washed out trail, and bushwhacked through ice cold wet brush to get to those vistas. Rolling the dice and crossing fingers that skies will clear and clouds will part just when you need it. Both thanking and cursing that dense forest that can feel claustrophobic one moment and then be a safe haven from storms the next. That rush of exhilaration and unfathomable wonder as you hike on a trail-less ridgeline with the Canadian Rockies endlessly stretching in every direction.

Final Thoughts on the Great Divide Trail

I intentionally avoided specifics on the hike itself, because each day was so unique and varied. Anyone interested in a detailed daily journal of the hike, can visit my website noted at the end of the article. One important note I would like to make however, is that many GDT thru-hikers end their hike at Mt. Robson Provincial Park, mainly for logistical reasons. The final stretch of the GDT that continues north from Mt. Robson for another ~100mi to end at Kakwa Lake is incredibly remote and traveled by few. It’s a long carry for most and logistically a more challenging exit, but rewarding, especially if weather is going to be clear. The high route alternates in that final leg to Kakwa Lake are incredibly grand and rewarding. As I said before, the stuff dreams are made of.

In talking with some of the veteran long distance hikers who have experienced a wide variety of long trails, there are many that agree with me that the Great Divide Trail just may be THE best trail we’ll ever hike. There is something bittersweet about that realization...but the great thing is that I can return (like many GDT thru-hikers seem to do) and I know it will be a uniquely new and inspiring experience each time.

Need to Know

Information

Check out www.greatdividetrail.com for more information on the Great Divide Trail and previous hiker journals. Given that the GDT goes through 5 National Parks and 7 Provincial Parks, permits and reservations would be needed. The Great Divide Trail Association provides more detail on this on their website with a list of all the campsites and which ones require permits. The main ones most thru hikers would need to pay attention to are Banff, Jasper, and Kootenay National Parks and Robson Provincial Park.

Getting There

Since the GDT goes through so many National and Provincial Parks, there are many places to jump on and do sections of the trail. Hikers looking to start at the southern terminus at Waterton Lakes National Park can fly into Calgary and rent a car or use the Airport Shuttle Express service. Driving to Waterton Lakes National Park is also doable and there are possibly resources through the park for leaving a vehicle for the length of the hike if needed.

Best Time to Go

The Canadian Rockies are often blanketed in snow, so the window of time to go would be July through mid-September with mid-July through mid-August being the most ideal in typical years.

Maps & Books

The guidebook for the GDT is Hiking Canada’s Great Divide Trail by Dustin Lynx. There have been some improvements made since the publication of the guidebook and those can also be found on the GDTA website. The maps for the GDT cannot yet be purchased as one complete unit. It’s a bit of a piecing together from various sources like National Geographic, Gem Trek Maps and map sets made by previous hikers. In recent years a FarOut app-based guide has been released as well.

Erin “Wired” Saver is a long distance backpacking blogger that has hiked over 10,000 miles since 2011 including hiking’s Triple Crown (Pacific Crest Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Appalachian Trail). She is well known for her detailed daily hiking journals that can be found on her blog at walkingwithwired.com.

Editor's Note: This article by Erin "Wired" Saver originally appeared in Issue 28 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.