Most backpacking trips enter a figurative “Paradise” at some point or another. It could be an exquisite sunset, a perfect campsite, or time spent mesmerized by a waterfall. My trip along the Selway River Trail with my stalwart backpacking companion Justin had the amusing distinction of actually beginning at a Paradise. The Paradise boat launch and trailhead in the Bitterroot National Forest in a remote corner of Idaho, to be exact.

From here we would follow the Selway River downstream for approximately 50 miles and pass through some of the most remote country in the Lower 48. The two-hour drive to the trailhead was punctuated by potholes in the gravel road and entertaining stories from Harry, a friend of a friend who was nice enough to drop us off at Point A of our point-to-point hike. Of particular interest was Harry’s tale of a four-day trip in Colorado sometime in the 1970s, during which he was dressed in Sperry Topsiders and pink bell bottoms and brought two cans of beans for food.

A Selway River Trail Journey Begins

We took the first steps of our 50-mile journey in mid-afternoon on an overcast and breezy Sunday. We’d been cautioned, both by a guidebook and by other hikers, that limited campsites were one of the only drawbacks of the trail and we found this to be true throughout our hike. The first few miles were no exception. While there were several spots that would be suitable for spending the night, none inspired much enthusiasm. Although we weren’t passing many campsites, we were passing through some lovely displays of wildflowers. Pinks, purples, yellows, blues, whites – all appreciated in a sincere but unscientific way.

Scattered showers on the partly sunny day provided a surreal spectacle while simultaneously decreasing our standards for campsites. We were eventually forced to don our rain gear or suffer the consequences, which included but were not limited to dampness and discomfort. Fortunately, within a half-hour of zipping into our GoreTex or equivalent pants and jackets we spotted an appealing place to set up camp for the night. Unfortunately, we had to make our way down a steep hillside and through soaked shrubs to reach our riverside reprieve. A game of waiting, second guessing, and meteorological speculation ensued and resulted in us setting up camp in a barely inconvenient light drizzle. As expected, the rain stopped completely once the flys were put on and the last stake put in the ground.

Listening to the river, we appreciated the juxtaposition between this soundtrack and the soundtrack of the previous evening. Following a performance by critically acclaimed indie rock group Yo La Tengo at the Wilma Theater in Missoula, Montana to the sounds of the renowned and federally protected Selway River in 24 hours was quite remarkable. Two distinctly awesome sounds in two consecutive nights.

In the most enjoyable and refreshing way possible, the next several days blended together. Warm, sunny days drifted seamlessly into pleasantly cool and clear nights. A footpath paralleled the Platonic ideal of a “wild river”. The palpable verdancy of the forest, the variety of wildflowers, the breathtaking downstream views, and the occasional cascading side streams made the hiking anything but ordinary and monotonous. Three privately owned inholdings (complete with their own airstrips), Shearer Guard Station and airstrip, Moose Creek Ranger Station, various rock formations, and built-to-last pack bridges over the Selway River and several tributaries served as mile markers as we followed the water downstream.

A mellow 12-mile day led to a comfortable camp at Bear Creek, which featured one of the most comfortable places I’ve ever sat while filtering water. The following day was 16 undulating miles to an underwhelming campsite at Cedar Flats. We’d hoped to find a good spot to swim during the long hike to Cedar Flats, but settled instead for soaking our tired feet in a cold pool of water in a side stream while listening to “You Can’t Always Get What You Want” by the Rolling Stones. Fitting.

Upon arriving at Cedar Flats, we noticed that “flats” in the name was a bit of a stretch. “Slanted and Enchanted Cedar Grove” would’ve been a better name (excuse the blatant reference to indie-rock band Pavement’s first album). Regardless, we found accommodating spots for our tents and tired bodies. The next morning, with sunlight filtering through the canopy and the rich fragrance of the cedar grove mixing with the aroma of coffee, we both came to the conclusion that while Cedar Flats wasn’t the most stunning place to end a 16-mile day of hiking it certainly was a fine place to wake up.

A Last Night and Next Day

Our penultimate day in the woods featured an icy swim in the Selway, an overcrowded campsite at Ballinger Creek which caused us to push on a few more miles to a perfect campsite at Cupboard Creek. We pitched our tents beneath thick trunked cedars and took a short stroll to relax on a beach shaded by ponderosa pines. The sound of whitewater filled the background while the whoosh of propane being ignited filled the foreground, with the smell of burnt knuckle hair clearly indicating that the process of cooking dinner had begun. We spent the final evening looking at fast water and a slow sunset.

Taking a cue from the river, our last few miles of hiking were peaceful and surprisingly unhurried. We passed through some of the most charming cedar and fern groves of the trip on our way out, making sure to take time for breaks to soak up the scenery as well as ingest water and calories. Lush and lovely are the two words that come to mind when describing the final section of the trail. When it wasn’t in the forest, it was within spitting distance of the river on a shoulder-width path. A bittersweet sense of accomplishment washed over us when we reached the end of our hike at Race Creek, where a generous-beyond-belief friend awaited and provided us with a shuttle back to the Bitterroot Valley.

Need to Know

Information

The Moose Creek Ranger Station should be able to provide the most up-to-date information on trail conditions. Phone number 208-926-4258. If hiking early in the season, it would advisable to call the West Fork Ranger Station on the Bitterroot National Forest at 406-821-3913 to check on conditions and to see if the road over Nez Perce Pass is passable.

Getting There

Either trailhead is a long way from anywhere. To get to Paradise, turn off of US Hwy. 93 onto MT-473 (West Fork Road) approximately 4 miles south of Darby, MT. From here, travel approximately 15 miles to make a right turn onto the Nez Perce Road. Follow the signs to Paradise.

To get to Race Creek (recommended terminus) follow US Hwy. 12 to Lowell, Idaho, From Lowell, follow the signs for the Selway Wild and Scenic River and continue on the Selway River Road. Follow this dead-end road to the Race Creek Campground.

Maps and Books

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, South Half map. Detailed descriptions of the Selway River Trail can be found via book form in Hiking the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness by Scott Steinberg and Backpacking Idaho: From Alpine Peaks to Desert Canyons by Douglas Lorain. For getting to and from the trailhead and exploring other destinations in the state, the Delorme Idaho Atlas & Gazetteer can be helpful.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 29 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.