“Just take three steps, stop, and breathe.” The anthem I sang to myself scaling Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the continental United States. I had started down in the Owens Valley 7,000 feet ago, with a backpack loaded with a week’s worth of food. Now, each step that I gain in altitude makes the pack seem heavier and heavier. The Whitney Portal Trail comes to a "T" – I could either veer right and tag the summit and the official start of the John Muir Trail, or head left and down in elevation to Crabtree Meadows. With months of planning I swallowed the pain and took the exit ramp right up to Whitney.

The John Muir Trail offers hikers everything from stunning and stark alpine terrain, to green and lush open meadows at lower elevations.

Hiking the John Muir Trail

With my three steps, stop, and breathe ethos, that beat led me to my first 14,000 foot summit and an unforgettable view. The backpack was removed from my shoulders and I began to catch my breath. My gaze veered down to a lake below. Flashes of gold darted out from the lake and up into the creek flowing into it. The California state fish, the golden trout, frolic in this high alpine environment – a fish I’d pursue with each step along the 211-mile trail.

The mosquitoes of the Sierra are infamous. Not at any stage of the trail are you free from these vampires. With them buzzing my head, camp was set up in Crabtree Meadows, the gateway and intersection of the John Muir Trail and the Whitney Portal Trail. Being the intersection of such popular highways, camp was hardly empty, but neither busy. Climbers, thru-hikers, and fisherman alike enjoy the views of Mount Whitney’s west face and the deer and marmots in the meadow.

The next day boasted a frost-covered tent with the scratchings and rumblings of a marmot close by. With camp packed up after a cup of coffee and instant oatmeal, I hit the trail. The day’s agenda was to reach the base of the wall of granite that is Forester Pass. Forester is the highest pass of the JMT at 13,200 feet. The route to Forester Pass takes you onto the Bighorn Plateau. A plateau with beautiful snow-capped spires on either side, spectators to the race of many a JMT hike. Rolling alpine, scattered patches of wildflowers, and permanent snowfields make up the landscape here. Breaks are frequent at an altitude of over 11,000 feet.

With the continued climb, the base of Forester was present. It was early afternoon and a few passing clouds made sure their presence were known. With the threat of thunder and lightning on the pass, I found a small lake just off trail, the tent was set up and my tired eyes laid to rest for the night at high altitude.

The morning beckoned with blue skies and an orange hue blasted upon the peaks above. With coffee and a hearty breakfast, my body was fueled and ready to tackle the pass. Hiking up to it, the route seemed impossible and non-existent. My eyes wandered through the cirque of granite and struggled to find the way with each step. But as I got closer, I saw a tiny speck up in a crack of a fellow hiker making their way up the pass, and to my disbelief, a tiny ledge in the granite gave passage. Two hours later, the reality of reaching the pass came to, and the views both south and north became apparent. At that instant the reality of the hike set in.

Now the downhill section into Kings Canyon National Park, one of the highlights of the trail. With the slow decline in elevation, it was a struggle to watch footing with the granite giants towering overhead. Cascading creeks rushed down from the melting alpine snow and into frozen lakes. From the lakes, creeks ran off and continued down into Vidate Meadows eventually forming Bubbs Creek.

At this point on the trail, hikers begin to slowly run out of food. With my 8-10 mile days, my own supply was dwindling and I didn’t intend on carrying food for the length of the entire trail. Down Bubbs Creek further was a side trail that takes you up and over Kearsarge Pass and to Onion Valley where one can get to town to re-supply. A seven-mile, one-way trail, but worth it for a small break from trail life and for town food.

The passes in the Sierra are somewhat like a game of dominoes. Once you climb over one, the rest fall perfectly in line to be hiked. With Forester Pass having been scaled as the highest point, the rest of the passes get smaller, but that doesn’t mean they get any easier. After a fresh re-supply, the pack is heavy again. Soon I was greeted by the Rae Lakes, perhaps the most stunning location on the trail and one of the most popular sections along the JMT outside of Yosemite National Park. Several trails converge into this area like highways entering a major city. Luckily though, the people are largely outnumbered by the trout splashing on the surface of the numerous lakes. A short but sweet stay at Rae Lakes and the pack was once again shouldered for another pass. A suspension bridge marks the change and Pinchot Pass became the next domino.

I hiked along a rocky path of a trail following a stream. The stream was lined with thorn bushes and thick greenery, making it difficult to filter water for drinking. Once above treeline, the thunder and lightning began. Soon again the tent was up. Dawn brought a trend of blue skies for days. While fishing a chain of lakes a passerby hiker sat and stated how if she were to ever get married, the ceremony would happen at these lakes. Two splendid lakes that offered views and aqua blue water to quench even the thirstiest hiker.

Just beyond the lay the infamous Golden Staircase. The staircase reminded me how thankful I was to be hiking north. The countless switchbacks made the hike down fun, but for those that were heading the other direction and up it looked like an arduous task indeed. Once down, the meadow beckoned with open space and boulders – one of which offered a nice spot to lean up against, and offering a break from the series of passes I’d been hiking over.

Muir Pass was the hardest of the Sierra to go over. Achieving the pass and seeing the iconic Muir Hut, relief shot through me and the trail was all downhill, until the next pass of course. I set up camp next to another lake and watched trout rising, the surface of the lake appearing as though it was raining on a clear day. Above, golden light illuminated and reflected off the walls of granite. The following day, the trail led down further in elevation and below treeline. Tucked beneath the canopy of pine, Evolution Creek slithered its way down from the basin. But camping under the trees was a relief, and finally I was able to get a good night’s rest without the worry of thunder and lightning.

A Routine to the Finish Line

With yet another pass scaled and another on the horizon for the next day, the drum beat of this pattern continued throughout the rest of the trail. Always taking solace in the incredible beauty of nature, all the while struggling over each pass that offered its reward of sweeping views and untouched wilderness. Streams flowed freely and gave the hiker no need to worry about carrying water for the next pass. Trout frolicked in almost every body of water and passing hikers going the opposite direction offered constant inspiration with their descriptions of what lay ahead.

Upon nearing the Yosemite Valley floor and the end of the John Muir Trail I found myself starting to wish that it kept going. I would like to think that if there were a continuous trail of the beauty I just went through, but one that spanned for thousands of miles, my heart would tell me to just re-supply and keep hiking. Keep fishing the streams, keep hiking up the passes, and keep sleeping under the stars.

After my hike of the John Muir Trail in 2015, I can say it’s unlike any other place on earth. It’s a trail of granite spires that skyrocket to the stars, beautiful pine forests, clear and cold water, and ample solitude. It’s a trail that feeds the soul. Undoubtedly one of the greatest trails I have had the pleasure of setting foot on, and one that I would happily hike again.

Need to Know

Information

In order to hike the JMT, you must have a permit. Now, depending on which direction you plan to hike, you must apply at the correct office. If you plan to hike from Yosemite southward, you apply at the Yosemite Conservancy. You first apply 24 weeks before your planned start date. If hiking from the southern terminus, you must apply with the Inyo National Forest. These lottery based permits are in extreme demand and can only be applied for between February 1st and March 15th of the year you intend to hike. For more on JMT logistics see TrailGroove's John Muir Trail Tips and Hiking Guide.

Best Time to Go

From late June to September is the most popular time to hike and for good reason. Early June and July can still have lingering snow and September and October can see snow and frigid temperatures. Plan accordingly and apply for your permit dates carefully.

Getting There

California Highway 395 runs adjacent to the east side of the range with small roads that head into the mountains for trail access. To access the southern end and the Whitney Portal Trailhead, from Lone Pine off of Highway 395, head west and turn onto Whitney Portal Road. From there follow the road past Lone Pine and Whitney Portal Campgrounds to the trailhead. From the North, enter into Yosemite National Park from Highway 120 onto Big Oak Flat Road merging onto Northside Drive. From there, follow the road to the valley floor and the start. Some areas for getting on and off trail are at Kearsarge Pass in Onion Valley, Bishop Pass near Bishop, CA, Vermillion Valley Ranch, John Muir Ranch, Mammoth Lakes, and Tuolomne Meadows in Yosemite National Park.

Maps and Books

The National Geographic Trails Illustrated John Muir Trail map as well as the John Muir Trail Map Pack from Tom Harrison Maps both offer coverage of the JMT. The John Muir Trail Data Book offers condensed, packable information, with the related John Muir Trail Guidebook offering further reading at home.

Editor's Note: This article by contributor Sean Jansen originally appeared in Issue 49 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.