As I view the green rolling hills and valleys, it is difficult to tell that the elevation is above 12,000 feet. Off in the distance rugged peaks fill the horizon. Today a new adventure begins, one met with anticipation as well as uncertainty. My small Excel spreadsheet route plan reveals that today is actually day 17 of a journey that has been filled with lofty peaks, new friends, and some of the finest scenery in Colorado. Today’s adventure enters the depths of the Weminuche Wilderness in the San Juan National Forest.

Colorado's Weminuche Wilderness offers scenic, rolling alpine terrain with rugged peaks above.

Into the Weminuche Wilderness

Atop the Continental Divide’s 12,650 foot Stony Pass, I read about the pass’s history nearly 150 years ago as a route for prospectors and traders between Sante Fe and the San Juan Mountains.

Leaving the 4-wheel drive road, I rejoin the co-located Continental Divide and Colorado Trails for some of the finest hiking on the divide. Surprisingly, the grade is gentle, making for enjoyable hiking. Clouds begin to fill the late morning sky from where I have come. Although the rain is almost a daily occurrence, the potential wetness is not my concern, but the lack of shelter from lightning while high above treeline.

Colorful flowers fill the mountainside. The dramatic Arrow and Vestal Peaks seem to grow as I come closer. Soon the final step of my journey on the Continental Divide Trail is complete as the trail turns southeast and continues on to the Mexican border. I stay on the Colorado Trail for a while, stopping for a brief snack break, light precipitation and a blustery wind provide a cooling effect. I view the breathtaking valley along Elk Creek, but my route sticks to the divide.

Leaving the Colorado Trail I follow a cairned path with views of El Dorado Lake sitting high above the valley. My original plan was to stay on the Divide and summit Hunchback Mountain, but the path soon delivers me to Vallecito Lake and I can’t resist. The stream above the lake roars and there are impressive views of Mount Silex and The Guardian. I descend to the water’s edge. Continuing to the other end of the lake I find Vallecito Creek. With no defined trail I descend near the creek, knowing it will soon converge with the Vallecito Trail. On the way down, I find several waterfalls as many different streams combine to form the powerful Vallecito Creek.

Back on the solid Vallecito Creek Trail, I hike through the forest valley passing several dramatic peaks. To my right, a rustling sound in a pleasant meadow, a cow moose having an afternoon snack. I give the moose its space. Soon I depart and journey through swampy areas to where Vallecito and Sunlight Creeks meet.

After crossing the creek, the smell of smoke fills the air. Surprisingly, I find fellow backpackers who have setup camp for the night. There is a faint path near the creek directing me upward. Attempting to follow it, I lose it and find it, only to lose it and find it again several times. Soon the valley is far below. Looking back reveals a beautiful rainbow shining through the clouds. A little farther up, there is movement uptrail. A medium-sized bear searches under rocks for food. Unaware of my presence, it saunters toward me. Before it can get too close, I loudly project my voice, “Hey!” Turning around, the bear runs up the trail as if its life is in danger. I continue the climb, keeping in mind that the bear may still be near. Underneath overgrown brush on the trail, I spot a dark animal-like creature. A skunk? I detour around for odor protection, but what I discover is not a skunk, but a porcupine, peacefully minding its business on the path.

Climbing even higher, the trail has again disappeared and clouds have darkened. Thunder booms and lightning flashes in the distance. Soon I’m in an all-out downpour. Where to go? I proceed back to the trees near Sunlight Creek for shelter. Realizing that Sunlight Lake is out of reach and dangerous above treeline, I contentedly call it a day, setting up my tent on the most unlevel site since my journey began near Frisco 300+ miles earlier.

Early the next morning I find myself above the trees on a steep scree field. I am on a narrow path but determine the need to depart from it and head in the direction of several towering 14ers (peaks taller than 14,000 feet) including Sunlight and Windom Peaks. Soon I have Sunlight Lake all to myself. The experience invigorates me more than I thought it would even after extensive online research about the lake. After enjoying the stunning alpine lake, I head off to find the next one, which is located only two unnamed passes away. Along the way, I pass the impressive Jagged Mountain and its many towers. My route follows no trail, but I simply direct myself to a point in the distance, following the route of least resistance. The lack of trail combined with the pristine mountainous wilderness makes this my most remote experience to date. Atop the second unnamed pass, I look down on an immense rock field on my way to the colorful Leviathan Lake. At the lake, I again have a splendid view all to myself. After a short snack break, I ascend north in the direction of Peak 7. This manageable climb only requires moderate scrambling.

Next I pass an immense basin as I journey between numbered peaks and over two additional unnamed passes. Soon I identify another magnificent alpine lake, Lake Silex, its color more turquoise than any I’ve seen before. Navigating around Storm King Peak, the remnants of a trail lead me to Trinity Lake. Behind me is one of my last views of the Continental Divide. The sky’s reflection in a small pool of water is truly inspiring! Trinity Lake presents a challenging photo site as I have to get so close to see it, but the towering mountains are so near. It is a view that is hard to capture in a photo. I see some deer staring at me, a stranger with a camera in their humble mountain environment.

Turning north, I head to my final pass, marking my return to the Colorado Trail. The descent is rocky and each step requires careful foot placement. The view down to Elk Creek is stunning. The steep rocky descent levels out to become a flat rock field, only to continue steeply downward again while passing small unnamed lakes. Soon the trees are back above my head. Unable to find any form of trail, I grasp from tree to tree to prevent sliding down the steep forest mountain slope. At times I clamber over downed trees, while other times backtracking is the only way to find a safe descent. I worry about sharp branches in the unfortunate event of a fall.

After significant time, I reach Elk Creek, sloshing across the water in my trail runners. I quickly discover I am almost in the back of a fellow backpacker’s campsite. Not wanting to startle them or to disrupt their peaceful wilderness experience, I opt to sneak around, making my way back to the Colorado Trail.

The clouds darken and I search for a flat campsite, finding a near perfect site in a meadow just before the latest evening storm erupts. Experiencing my first episode of hiker hunger, I devour my remaining food, while planning a trip into town the next morning.

As I lay in the comfortable confines of my tent protected from the rain, I contemplate the joys of my first off-trail adventure: The Continental Divide, pristine alpine lakes, unusual animal encounters, the many unnamed passes and innumerable rugged high mountain views. Best of all I realize that I have barely touched this wilderness – the largest in Colorado, one with a name I still struggle to pronounce: The Weminuche.

Need to Know

Best Time to Go

July-September are typically ideal times to visit the area. Early season hikers may encounter lingering snow, plentiful mosquitoes, and thunderstorms, while later in the season winter weather systems are possible.

Getting There

Arrange for a ride from Silverton to Stony Pass, start on the Colorado Trail from Molas Pass and make a loop, or better yet start on the Colorado Trail from Spring Creek Pass near Lake City for a week long adventure.

Maps & Books

The National Geographic Trails Illustrated 140 Weminuche Wilderness map covers the area. For getting to and from trailheads an atlas such as the Delorme Colorado Atlas and Gazetteer and / or the Benchmark Colorado Atlas can be useful. For a guidebook take a look at the Falcon Guide to the Weminuche and South San Juan Wilderness.

Editor's Note: This article by contributor Eric Moll originally appeared in Issue 18 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.