After a drive into the night and an examination of the small walk-in Devils Lake Campground by headlamp, I found an available campsite – close enough to the trailhead that it was safe to say the first part of my journey (getting there) was complete. It was quiet, but there were several others camped nearby. The peaks that dominated the wilderness trip ahead of me were obscured by the darkness of the night. I was excited for the backpacking trip ahead of me, a nearly 60 mile variation of one of Oregon’s most iconic backpacking trips. The campground having served its purpose, early in the morning I packed up camp and quickly was in my car and only a short drive from the trailhead.

The surrounding terrain was impressive with the views that daylight provided. As I pulled into the trailhead, it was empty. The morning sun lit a dramatic glacier-covered mountain peeking above the forest: the South Sister. Soon I went and filled out a self-issued permit, a privilege that no longer exists for this area, and I joined up with the trail. Within minutes I reached a wilderness sign indicating the entrance to the Three Sisters Wilderness.

Hiking in the Three Sisters Wilderness offers iconic views of its namesake peaks with scenic complimentary lakes, meadows, and forests.

The Three Sisters Wilderness

The Three Sisters Wilderness in central Oregon is one of the most spectacular and the second largest wilderness in the state. Flora includes lush forests of fir, hemlock, and pine. Fauna include mink, marten, weasel, raccoon, bobcat, coyote, deer, elk, black bear, and mountain lion. There are many rushing streams, waterfalls, and alpine lakes. The terrain varies from meadows, to lava fields and volcanoes including the namesake Three Sisters themselves. This has become an increasingly popular area for backpacking and hiking and hence, the need for limited-entry permits beginning in 2020.

It was a crisp late September day. My route followed a beautiful waterfall-filled creek up to the main loop. It was evident that the trail was well-traveled and maintained. After reaching a trail junction, the views began to open up at a still lake reflecting the colorful South Sister at 10,363 feet, the third highest peak in Oregon. Soon I passed a trail that takes hikers to its summit, but that was an adventure for a different time.

Approaching another junction, I turned right onto the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), one of the most popular and spectacular trails in the country stretching from Mexico to Canada. The sky was blue with a few clouds and wispy airplane contrails. The air was fresh, unlike the forest-fire filled air from earlier in the year throughout the state. Several backpackers passed, some of the first of the day. Maybe they were thru-hikers? I didn’t ask but wished them, “happy trails”. This was my first time I’d set foot on the Pacific Crest Trail in nearly ten years since completing a section of it that is co-located with the John Muir Trail in California.

Next, the Middle Sister began to appear with its pyramidal shape. There were also other “family members”, including Little Brother, the Husband, and the Wife. Detouring off the PCT, I explored several other peaceful lakes with majestic views. Beside the trail the ground was carpeted with the reds and oranges of fall. I stopped for a break and noticed hundreds of butterflies flying past. I contemplated where they were going. The day’s journey continued on mostly level terrain with abundant views.

Before I knew it, I had hiked almost 20 miles and approached the Obsidian Limited Entry Area where camping was only allowed with a special permit. I found an outstanding campsite up a hill just west of the trail outside the entry area boundary. Discovering sharp glass-like obsidian nearby, I appreciated its beauty but took care to avoid cutting myself. Historically obsidian was used to make knives, spears, arrowheads, and many other weapons. From camp, I had an overlooking view of distant Cascade volcanoes to the north. Drifting to sleep, I watched the moon rise over the South Sister.

In the morning, the wind increased and clouds filled the sky. The rain began to fall as I left camp, the first rain I’d experienced since moving to Oregon two months earlier. Shortly, I arrived at a waterfall and then entered a windy and mystical, fog-filled lava field. The views of the peaks were obscured, but I was thankful for the rain and embraced the uncertainty that the weather gave to my surroundings. I took a break and enjoyed some food at a small lake on the north side of the loop. Fog blew over the lake. There were several designated campsites nearby. I was already too wet and chilled to even think of going for a swim.

The route then left the PCT and I began the other side of my loop. The trail was sandy and the forest scarred by a previous forest fire. The sky began to clear and the view of the North Sister was increased with the decreased foliage. There were limited water sources, but with planning, staying hydrated wasn’t challenging. Occasionally expansive views opened up toward Bend and Eastern Oregon.

Being ahead of schedule and desiring better views, I decided to take a trail to a lake nearly between the South and Middle Sisters. As I hiked up, the top of the mountains were again in the clouds, and I couldn’t tell exactly where they were. At the lake I found several other groups of people camped nearby with a chillingly fierce wind. There was a sheltered spot in a cluster of small trees on a ridge above the lake to set up camp. Hoping the views would improve and expecting a cold night I bundled up in my tent.

In the middle of the night, I awoke to the moon brightly shining overhead. I groggily scrambled down to the edge of the lake and with excitement viewed the towering South Sister visible by moonlight. In the morning, the excitement turned to exhilaration as the sky was still clear as the sunrise from the east vibrantly illuminated the South and Middle Sisters. Departing camp, I noticed the lake’s icy edge and white frost beside the trail. While descending I took time to look back and experience the views that had been obscured the day before. Surveying my surroundings, I located Broken Top and all Three Sisters.

The End of Another Journey

Back on the main loop, the trail was again forested with occasional views of mountains but also pleasant meadows and small ponds. I climbed to find distant views to the north with the peaks of the Cascades in view miles away. I tried to identify them, but their mystery made the experience feel even wilder. As I neared the end of the journey, I arrived at one of the most popular areas with sparkling lakes and inspiring mountain views.

Pausing for a snack, the area was deservingly crowded. The vibrant lakes reflected the South Sister one final time. A horse and its rider speedily galloped by on the trail. I contentedly retraced my steps descending beside the waterfall-filled stream I had traveled less than two days before. Back at the trailhead (no longer empty but filled beyond capacity), I treasured the memories of another successful journey.

Need to Know

Information

The Three Sisters Wilderness at 286,708 acres includes over 260 miles of trails and 40 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail. Loops of 50-60 miles can be planned depending on side trips and the starting trailhead. The trails are well maintained and marked. If looking to avoid the crowds, there are many opportunities for Leave No Trace off-trail hiking and camping. Beginning in 2020, limited entry permits will be required for all overnight and many day hikes in three of Oregon’s most popular wilderness areas including the Three Sisters Wilderness as part of the Central Cascades Wilderness Permit system. This will be one of the most extensive permit systems in the country. Reservations will be available at Recreation.gov. Quotas are enforced by limiting access at trailheads instead of requiring reservations at specific campsites in advance.

Best Time to Go

August is typically the best, but the trails are usually open from Mid-July to October. Earlier in the year there will likely be snow, and mosquitoes can be significant depending on when the snow melts. Summer brings the chance of forest fires which often limit views, diminish air quality, close trails, or even pose dangers to a hiker on the trail. It is best to carefully monitor the fire situation prior to beginning a hike and have back-up itineraries in mind if the desired route is inaccessible.

Getting There

The loop is best accessed from Sisters or Eugene, OR with commercial flights available to Redmond and Eugene. As a loop there are many different options for trailheads. Some of the most popular include: Green Lakes/Soda Creek, Devil’s Lake/South Sister, Scott/Obsidian, Lava Camp, and Pole Creek.

Maps and Books

The National Geographic Trails Illustrated 818 Bend, Three Sisters map covers the area. For getting to and from the trailhead and exploring other destinations in the state, an atlas like the Benchmark Oregon Atlas can be useful. Guidebooks include Backpacking Oregon: From River Valleys to Mountain Meadows by Douglas Lorain and Atlas of Oregon Wilderness plus 100 hikes/Travel Guide: Central Oregon Cascades, both by William L. Sullivan.

Editor's Note: This article by contributor Eric Moll originally appeared in Issue 46 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.