Imagine a wilderness area of tundra ridge walks, a place where 13,000-foot peaks tower into the sky, where wildflowers dot the landscape, and bighorn sheep scramble over the terrain. A wilderness area that would seem to be the stuff that backpacker dreams are made of. Now picture this area tucked away in northern New Mexico. An area ignored by many backpackers. No major long distance hiking trail comes through these mountains. No glossy travelogues feature this wilderness area. This wilderness area? The Pecos Wilderness. And to paraphrase New Mexico’s often quoted description, it is a wilderness of enchantment.

A scenic viewpoint on a backpacking trip in New Mexico's Pecos Wilderness

The Pecos Wilderness of New Mexico

At over 200,000 acres, the Pecos Wilderness is second only to the Gila Wilderness in total acreage among New Mexico wilderness. There is much to explore, see, savor, and remember in this vast wilderness area. The Pecos Wilderness (often shortened simply to “The Pecos”), is at the southern end of Sangre De Cristo Range that extends into nearby Colorado. And, as such, also happens to be near the end of the mighty Rocky Mountains that extend far north into Canada.

The Pecos shows New Mexico in all its diversity. Gentle meadows may be found, canyons explored, streams with native Rio Grande cutthroat call out for the passionate angler, and elevations range from 8,000 to over 13,000 feet atop some of New Mexico’s tallest peaks, and in the autumn, the aspen forests shimmer with gold. The Pecos is found between the bustling capital of Santa Fe and the quiet, but fascinating, city of Taos noted for its artistic, cultural, historical, and culinary importance. From either town, the high mountains of the Pecos may be spied, beckoning the outdoor enthusiast upward.

When to Backpack the Pecos Wilderness

For general three-season conditions, the lower elevations of the Pecos can generally be accessed from mid-May to mid-October. The higher elevations areas around Memorial Day to early October is considered a prime time. All depending on the snowpack and when winter comes, of course. Southern facing areas will generally have a longer backpacking season, naturally.

Maps & Books

For a general overview map that is suitable for planning and following trails, the National Geographic Trails Illustrated Santa Fe, Truchas Peak 731 map is suggested. If hiking off-trail or doing more technical scrambling routes, more detailed topo maps, such as those found on CalTopo (see TrailGroove's CalTopo app review), are suggested. For getting to and from trailheads, the Benchmark New Mexico Atlas can be useful. For a guide to hikes across the state, see the Hiking New Mexico guidebook as well as 100 Hikes in New Mexico.

Pecos Wilderness Access

The Pecos is about six hours south of Denver and one hour of north of Albuquerque for the more popular access points. Santa Barbara Trailhead and campground and nearby Trampas Trailhead are accessible access points on the north facing side near the small New Mexico hamlet of Penasco, this access point starts at 8800’ and climbs out of a canyon to gain the Santa Barbara Divide. Besides separating the Pecos and Santa Barbara watersheds, this divide is a ridge walker's delight. Above treeline for several miles with 12,0000 and 13,000 foot, non-technical peaks along the way. A highlight of this wilderness area.

Jacks Creek is also another favorite campground and trailhead area. Accessed from points south, this trailhead leads to the more open, southern facing side, and tends to have less snow in the earlier part of the hiking season. This trailhead area leads to the popular Pecos Baldy and Truchas Lakes, Pecos Falls, the phenomenal Trailriders Wall and onward to the Truchas Peaks. The Truchas Peaks are among the highest peaks in New Mexico. At 13102’, Truchas Peak itself is the second highest peak in New Mexico. The Truchas Peaks group dominates the wilderness area. The small hamlet of Pecos is a good spot for some basic supplies and gas before heading into the wilderness area.

There are many other trailheads of course for accessing the Pecos Wilderness. But the above are the most popular for getting into the heart of the wilderness area. Note that some of the more obscure trailheads are located on private or tribal lands, and permission is needed to access the wilderness area from these trailheads. The National Geographic map noted above will have some of this basic information for further contact if needed.

At over 200,000 acres, the Pecos Wilderness has plenty of hiking and backpacking opportunities to choose from.

What to Do?

With many peaks, lakes, trails, and over 200,000 acres in size, The Pecos has many options to choose from that range from a quick and mellow overnighter to a multi-day extravaganza.

Some Possible Pecos Wilderness Hikes

Trampas Lakes

At about 6 miles one-way and 2800’ gain, the Trampas Lakes Trail leads to a group of lakes nestled under the alpine ridge above. Postcard perfect!

Pecos Baldy Lake

About 7.5 miles and 3000’ gain one way, this lake is accessed from the Jacks Creek Trailhead and sits at the cusp of treeline below a ridge. Note that camping is not allowed in the lake basin itself, but there are spots just above the lake with obvious camping. Besides being a delightful spot in its own right, the Pecos Baldy Lake area serves as an excellent base from which to hike Trailriders Wall or even more ambitious hikes to the Truchas Peaks group.

Santa Barbara Divide Loop

At 35 miles and 7000’ gain, this loop starts and ends at the Santa Barbara Trailhead. If you love being above treeline and hiking ridges, this is the loop for you! Excellent chance you will see bighorn sheep along the way. Peakbaggers or more adventurously inclined hikers can get off-trail and follow the ridge line proper with some easy off-trail navigation and non-technical hiking...if with more elevation gain overall.

Skyline Trail #251

A 75-mile one-way trail with 10,000’ gain total that takes in many of the highlights of the Pecos Wilderness from tall peaks, to alpine lakes, broad meadows, and aspen groves. The trail starts and ends outside of the wilderness area itself. A shuttle will be needed. Take a friend!

Post Trip

Of course, since it is New Mexico, the intoxicating blend of the outdoors, history, food, and culture should be experienced if possible. The High Road to Taos from outside of Santa Fe is a fantastic way to explore many of the small hamlets and towns that are below the mountain areas you just hiked through. If you have time, the Pecos Pueblo is a history lover’s delight and is close to Jacks Creek Trailhead and the town of Pecos itself. At a strategic location between the plains and the mountains, the Pecos Pueblo was a wealthy trading powerhouse. Admission is free. And the food? Oh, the food…New Mexico cuisine is among the best food one can have in America.

A trip to the Pecos Wilderness can perhaps only be completed with a sampling of some excellent local cuisine.

Santa Fe has many, many, many restaurants. The Thunderbird on the Santa Fe Plaza has a deck overlooking this historic area, a good draft selection, and some tasty New Mexico style food. The chicken enchiladas with mole sauce were quite delectable. But I am partial to the lower key charm of Taos myself. One choice is Eske’s Brewpub off the main square in Taos. Featuring outdoor seating under welcoming cottonwoods and a New Mexico twist on traditional pub grub. Great green chile to smother the food!

A Trip to the Pecos Wilderness & Final Thoughts

On a recent spring trip, even a shorter time spent exploring the Pecos offered a nice change of pace from more crowded locales with a blend of mountain scenery, from alpine lakes and forests, to summit views of snow covered terrain atop the high mountain peaks. Both wildlife and solitude were to be found in abundance. Spring in the mountains can be unpredictable and snow blanketed my quiet campsite overnight, while wind blew through the peaks above. Hiking plans were adjusted to suit the weather, but a yearly dose of the Pecos, and the surrounding culture was still to be found.

A trip to the Pecos Wilderness shows off much of the best of New Mexico. Go to this area once, and you’ll always want to return. It has been this way for me.

Editor's Note: This article by contributor Paul Magnanti originally appeared in Issue 34 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for more photos and additional content.