Located approximately 15 miles off the Minnesotan and Canadian shores of Lake Superior, Michigan’s Isle Royale is the largest island in the world’s largest freshwater lake. This national park is a wilderness paradise with 99% of it officially designated as such. It includes scenic ridges, rugged coastal views, inland lakes, unique wildlife relationships, and an excellent network of trails. The island is 45 miles long and 9 miles wide. As the third largest island in the contiguous United States, Isle Royale is arguably the best island backpacking destination in the country. In late August of 2014 I had the opportunity to design and complete an approximately 130 mile week-long route that includes a majority of the island’s 165 miles of hiking trails.

Isle Royale is located in Lake Superior, also known as Gitche Gummi (“great water”). This massive body of water is the largest freshwater lake in the world by surface area. It is more reminiscent of the sea than a lake. To the east of Isle Royale the water goes on for miles and miles with no land visible on the horizon. To put the amount of water in Lake Superior in perspective, here is an interesting fact: there is enough water in Lake Superior to cover both North and South America with water one foot deep. The contrast between its nearly ripple-free waters on a calm day and the raging twenty foot plus waves during a storm is awe-inspiring.

Being on an island creates a more remote experience. Isle Royale adds to this by having no cars or roads. The only transportation to the island is by boat or plane. There is no cell service. Even though Isle Royale is a National Park, more people visit Yellowstone in a day than visit Isle Royale in a year.

An Isle Royale Journey Begins

After boarding the Sea Hunter III, my journey began as the mountains on Minnesota’s North Shore became smaller and smaller. Surprisingly, the water had a stillness that was greater than I could imagine. From the bow of the boat, land appeared out of the clouds. After entering Washington Harbor, the boat slowed to reveal one of several shipwrecks near the island. Through the clear water the SS America, a former passenger and delivery ship, was visible from where it has rested since 1928 down below. Exploring these shipwrecks is a popular activity for scuba divers.

Beginning on the west side of Isle Royale in Windigo, my route began with a portion of the popular Feldtmann Loop on the Feldtmann Lake and Feldtmann Ridge trails to Siskiwit Bay. I quickly left the day-hikers behind and journeyed to Feldtmann Lake, the first of ten-plus lakes that I would pass on my route, whether near the lakeshore or up on a ridge. I met a red fox a few feet ahead on the trail. Foxes have reportedly stolen hiker's boots on the island.

I climbed up to my first of the island’s three main ridges: the Feldtmann Ridge. The Feldtmann Ridge is located on the southwest part of the island and is the smallest of the three. It offers incredible overlooking, cliff-like views of Feldtmann Lake and farther inland. After leaving the ridge I continued through the slightly overgrown trail to the Siskiwit Bay Campground. I found a shelter near the scenic shore and enjoyed a star-filled night by the campfire.

Isle Royale has many campgrounds spread across the island. Nearly all of them are located close to a large body of water (Lake Superior or an inland lake). They are well-maintained including outhouses and in some locations three-walled, screened shelters with picnic tables. It’s hard to pick a poor campground, but the best of the best include Little Todd, Huginnin Cove, Moskey Basin, and Lane Cove. All four of them are located on Lake Superior and are especially scenic.

The next day my route went past Island Mine on the way to the Greenstone Ridge, the second major ridge of the adventure. The Greenstone Ridge is the spine of Isle Royale with a 40 mile hiking trail right on top of it. The figure-eight route includes much of this trail. The ridge was initially forested, but climbed to the highest point on the island, Mount Desor at 1394 feet, and continued past several scenic lakes. I took the time for a short detour to Hatchet Lake to get water as water was scarce up on the ridge. Walking the Greenstone was some of the easiest hiking on the island. I enjoyed the views! Sometimes they were endless including inland lakes, bays, harbors, and Lake Superior down below at 600 feet above sea level. Other times they were mystifying in the clouds. My camp for the night was north off the ridge at West Chickenbone Campground, a prime moose watching location.

Returning to the Greenstone, I trekked with sweeping views including from the Ojibway Fire Tower and Mountain Franklin, one of the best in the Midwest. At the junction after Mount Franklin, I dropped my backpack and day-hiked east. A bull moose was ahead on the trail and it crashed away through the brush. There was a spectacular view from Lookout Louise across Duncan Bay. I munched on some delicious thimbleberries.

Isle Royale’s flora is of special interest. Boreal forest is close to shore and Northern Hardwoods are in the interior. There are many types of shrubs including thimbleberry, blueberry, raspberry, bearberry and labrador tea among others. The island has over 600 flowering plants. Three types of lichens are found on Isle Royale: elegant lichen, old man’s beard, and reindeer.

On the way back to my pack, I descended from the Greenstone Ridge on the portage for a swim in Duncan Bay. It was quite warm from the heat up on the Greenstone and the water felt refreshing. Back at the Mount Franklin trail junction, I hoisted my pack and turned right to descend steeply to Lane Cove. The campground was crowded but some friendly backpackers invited me to set up camp in their site. It was a relaxing evening listening to the call of the loon. A few years earlier at this same location, I enjoyed the colorful display of the Northern Lights.

The next morning I climbed back up the Greenstone and decided to return to Mount Franklin for a spectacular morning view. I discovered the sun shining brightly on Canadian soil in the distance. Returning to the trail junction, I turned right joining the Mount Franklin Trail. I continued to the Tobin Harbor Trail and then to Rock Harbor. Rock Harbor was the psychological midway point of the hike and is a great place for a large meal at the Rock Harbor Lodge.

I was inspired by the dramatic coastal scenery with a day-hike loop on the Stoll Trail, to Scoville Point. The power of this Great Lake is clearly evident by the rocky bluffs and cliffs and in some places even arches. The work of Albert Stoll, Jr, the man who envisioned and fought to protect Isle Royale as a National Park deserves great appreciation.

Returning to Rock Harbor, I joined the Rock Harbor Trail. Suzy’s Cave was a short, but interesting side trip. It is an inland cave that was formed by the powerful Lake Superior years ago. In the harbor nearby I viewed several kayakers paddling by. Isle Royale is a great place to canoe or kayak as there are many campgrounds and portages exclusively for water travel.

On the way to Moskey Basin the trail passed two large campgrounds: Three-mile and Daisy Farm. I enjoyed the coastal scenery as I could see the park headquarters on Mott Island. After a long day, I arrived at Moskey Basin in the late evening. Personally, Moskey Basin is one of the finest campgrounds on the island with shelters on rocky slabs near the water.

My route continued on the Indian Portage Trail past Lake Richie and several other lakes. I met a cow moose with two calves and followed them on-trail as there was no way to pass due to the thick undergrowth. Many people who have heard of Isle Royale will have heard of the extensive research (over 50 years) on the predator and prey relationship of gray wolves and moose. The current theory is that wolves reached Isle Royale on an ice bridge across Lake Superior sometime after the park was established in 1940. At the time of my trip the wolf population was down to nine wolves. This number is quite low as there were approximately 50 wolves on the island in 1980. With the wolf population down, the moose now numbered approximately 1050 on the island. Other fauna on Isle Royale include: red fox, beaver, snowshoe hare, bat, loon, duck, and bald eagle.

I crossed over the Greenstone Ridge at the center of my figure eight route and sped along to McCargoe Cove. While taking a break and eating a snack, I watched another hiker take a plunge off the dock into the chilly water.

From McCargoe Cove, I began hiking on the most challenging trail on the island, the Minong Ridge Trail. The Minong Ridge is the third major ridge on Isle Royale. On the northwest portion of Isle Royale, it is the most rugged and remote on the island. It is nearly 30 miles long and a frequently cairned trail follows the ridge as it rises to many spectacular views of Lake Superior and Canada.

I quickly came to the Minong Mine. This historic site was well worth the time to explore. Copper mining activity dates back 4000 years on Isle Royale. Back up on the ridge was a great view of Otter Lake down below. I even saw some swans. I listened to the waves at Todd Harbor and saw some fellow hikers waiting for a boat on the dock. Continuing to secluded Little Todd, I discovered one of the best campgrounds on the island with an isolated beach and rocky coastline. After sunset, the mosquitos were ferocious. They swarmed me and so many entered my tent that I just wore my headnet all night. In the early night I watched a storm blow in with dark clouds and lightning flashing across Lake Superior.

The End of Another Adventure

The next morning, I hiked back to the Minong Ridge for the most remote on-trail hiking on Isle Royale. After a break at Lake Desor, I hiked the longest section of trail without a campground or trail junction on the island. I followed the ridge from cairn to cairn with majestic ridgeline views of Lake Superior. There were at least four beaver dams between ridges to cross. The latter half of the trail was through pristine forest.

I finally came to a trail junction and turned right to take the East Huginnin Cove Trail to Lake Superior for a beautiful segment of trail hugging the coast. The Huginnin Cove Campground provided an unforgettable view of Canada across Lake Superior. I sat back and reminisced about a week in the wild.

After an extended night’s rest, I returned the short distance to Windigo, bought a snack at the small store, enjoyed a ranger talk, and voyaged back to the mainland.

This was my second experience at Isle Royale National Park. The island has many hiking options from short day-trips to extended routes such as my figure eight route. With more time or a faster pace, worthy side-trips on my route include Chippewa Harbor and Siskiwit Lake, the largest on the island. There are also many options in addition to hiking. Isle Royale provides an exceptional wilderness experience, one that I recommend highly to all outdoor enthusiasts.

Need to Know

Information

Obtain permits upon arrival at island. Daily campground destinations are placed on the permit, but changes are allowed. Campgrounds are first come, first serve and sharing sites is encouraged when they are crowded. Backpackers are expected to stay in designated campgrounds unless they obtain a backcountry camping permit.

Water treatment – potable water is only available at Rock Harbor and Windigo. Chemical treatment alone is not sufficient on Isle Royale, and ultraviolet purifiers have not been tested for a common Isle Royale parasite. The National Park Service recommends boiling water, or using a 0.4 micron filter or better in addition to chemical treatment. I used a Sawyer Mini filter alone without any problems.

Best Time to Go

Late summer to early fall to avoid the bugs and hot weather. Early October is best for enjoying fall colors. There will also be less people on the island after Labor Day.

Getting There

Getting to Isle Royale takes planning. Most people arrive via boat either from Michigan’s Keweenaw Peninsula or Grand Portage, Minnesota. Boats don’t leave every day so it is important to identify a route that can be completed when a boat is returning to the mainland. Boats make stops at designated harbors around the island, so backpackers do not have to necessarily return to their starting point. From Grand Portage, Minnesota, use Isle Royale Boats. From Michigan, see this page as well as this option. Flying is also an option, however it is more expensive.

Maps & Books

For reading on Isle Royale see Isle Royale National Park: Foot Trails and Water Routes by Jim Dufresne. In regards to a map see Trails Illustrated Isle Royale National Park 240.

Editor's Note: This article by contributor Eric Moll originally appeared in Issue 20 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.