Although the quintessential image of backpacking is of alpine lakes, thick forests and craggy peaks, deserts offer the well-prepared backpacker breathtaking scenery and an opportunity for longer hikes months before most mountains have melted out. Desert backpacking is typically associated with the iconic landscapes of the Southwest and destinations such as Canyonlands National Park, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Grand Canyon National Park, and numerous other national parks, forests, and monuments – particularly in Arizona and Utah. Somewhat surprisingly, some excellent springtime backpacking in desert landscapes can also be found in the Northwest.

Idaho, Oregon, and Washington all have extensive arid landscapes that offer backpackers a chance to hike and camp in places that offer remarkable contrast to stereotypes of soggy Northwest woods or Rocky Mountain majesty. The Oregon Desert Trail provides hikers with a lengthy route through that state’s high desert and the Owyhee River area and Craters of the Moon National Monument in Idaho are opportunities to experience the beauty of arid environments. The expansive desert east of the Cascade Mountains in Washington, especially in the area around the Yakima River, is a unique and incredibly scenic area for backpacking and is ideal when the crests of the Cascades are still covered in feet of snow.

An Early Season Trip Begins

Eager to experience a novel landscape at perhaps its most scenic time of year, I headed to the L.T. Murray Wildlife Area near Yakima, Washington in late April for a weekend backpacking trip. My route featured a mix of single track trail, old roads, and cross-country travel through the sagebrush slopes of the high desert. I was only a few steps into my hike on the Yakima Skyline Trail when I spotted a few different blooming wildflowers. While I didn’t hit the area at peak wildflower season, I was definitely in the ballpark. Balsamroot and lupine loomed the largest, with shooting stars and phlox filling in the gaps. I made good time on the initial climb and, other than being distracted by the views, continued to move at a good pace along the ridge. I exchanged greetings and “wows” about the scenery with a Boy Scout troop and a group of equestrians, but for the most part I was hiking out of sight of others on a perfect spring day. Temperatures were in the 60s, a few clouds kept the sun from being too harsh, and a pleasant breeze stirred the air without adding even a hint of a chill.

While I wasn’t in need of water at the time, I was pleased to come across an overgrown spring that had been piped to run into a medium-sized tank after about 3.5 miles of hiking. I had passed a windswept campsite right on the canyon rim a quarter-mile or so back, but had written it off as undesirable due to its exposure and lack of water. I made a mental note that at least one of those problems now had a solution.

I continued toward Roza Creek and, aside from a detour to Gracie Point to enjoy its panoramic vista, didn’t take any significant breaks until reaching the creek, about 7.5 miles from the trailhead and with a total elevation gain of around 2,800 feet. Much of that elevation gain was sacrificed to reach Roza Creek and any sense of disappointment at the loss was washed away by its cool waters on my feet, face and hands. I rested for a bit at Roza Creek, its modest width and shallow depths providing a contrast to the arid slopes and dry gulches that I’d passed through that afternoon. Following Roza Creek upstream, further into the expanses of the country, I noted the increase in birdsongs and the dense riparian vegetation that seemed to guard the creek. I reached a delightful camp, coincidentally called the Birdsong Tree camp, where I pitched my tent on a lush carpet of grass with nice up-canyon views for sunset. My own clock seemed to be in sync with the solar clock and I headed to bed as soon as the sun went down.

I’d considered staying both nights at the Birdsong Tree camp, but decided that packing up and looping back toward the trailhead was a better option. I’ve never been great at exploring from a basecamp – I always end up putting so much stuff in the pack I take out hiking for the day that it weighs about two-thirds as much as it would if I were completely packed up. After a cup of coffee and a snack, I continued my upstream trek with a full pack and lighter mind. It’s amazing what a night of good rest in nature can do to improve one’s disposition. I drifted off the old dirt road after it crossed Roza Creek and, with no particular plan, began steadily climbing uphill towards Umtanum Ridge. The wildflowers on the south facing slopes were enchanting and worth the added effort or making upward progress without the benefit of a trail.

Almost too soon, I crested the ridge and hit another old road which led out to the end of the ridge where a singletrack path connected to Roza Creek and where I would begin retracing my steps. Views of distant volcanic peaks and mountain ranges made an already pleasant stroll even better. I saw a few trail runners, but for the most part had the trail to myself. Upon reaching Roza Creek I took a quick water inventory and made sure I had plenty to make it to the spring along the canyon rim before I rinsed my face off and re-energized with some jerky and trail mix.

I’ve always had a soft spot (or perhaps just an instinctual appreciation) for springs and I was especially grateful to reach this unnamed spring after a steady climb in the afternoon sun. I rested in the shade, filtered the frigid water, and then headed up to check out the campsite. The wind was blowing stronger than it had the previous day and I began to have second thoughts about my decision to mix things up and camp on the ridge. Whenever possible, I like to alternate campsites in landscapes with plateau or canyon characteristics – camping creekside one night and ridgetop the next provides a worthwhile change of perspective.

Glancing around more out of habit than intention, I spotted a cluster of rocks on a minor highpoint that was only a few hundred feet away. Fingers crossed, I made my way over to investigate. The good news was that the cluster of rocks offered an effective shield from the wind. The bad news was that there was no way a tent would really work in the setting. I rarely camp under the stars, but I decided to break with tradition and sleep without a shelter. After getting over my initial anxiety and getting a hearty meal, I appreciated the simplicity of the getting into a sleeping bag without having to contort myself under a tarp or unzip a tent. Waking up in the middle of the night and looking at a starscape more beautiful than anything I could dream was also a perk.

The exposed ridgetops of the Yakima Skyline Trail offer little in the way of shelter.

Another Trip in the Books

With a long drive ahead of me, I didn’t belabor getting back on the trail the next morning (and not having to pack up a tent was a huge help as well) and even skipped coffee, opting to make it back to the car instead. Habits are made to be broken, or at least delayed, from time to time. Walking along the canyon rim just after sunrise was an indescribably pleasant type of hiking and assured me I’d made the right decision to camp on the ridge. A group of deer grazed on the fresh growth of spring and the increasing light of day brought out the colors in the wildflowers in a most delicate way that seemed to change every few minutes. While there wasn’t a singular feature that stood out on this hike, this landscape was greater than the sum of its parts – and those types of landscapes tend to be the ones that keep me coming back time and time again.

Need to Know

Information

A description of the first section of this hike and recent trip reports can be found on the Washington Trails Association website. Additional information about the L.T. Murray Wildlife Area can be found here on the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife website. A Washington Discover Pass is required for parking at the trailhead and can be purchased from local vendors or through the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. There are no permits required specifically for backpacking in the area. Campfires are prohibited from April 15 to October 15.

Best Time to Go

April and May are ideal for wildflowers and mild temperatures, although hiking late in the fall could be pleasant as well. Lack of shade and heat make this a difficult trail to enjoy in the summer months.

Getting There

From I-90 near Ellensburg, WA take exit 110 onto I-82 and continue to exit 26 for Selah, WA. Take a right off the exit ramp and turn left onto Harrison Road. Follow Harrison Road for about 2 miles and then turn right onto Wenas Road. Drive approximately 3 miles and keep going straight ahead on Gibson Road at a junction, then make a right onto Buffalo Road. The pavement ends about a half-mile after you turn on Buffalo Road, at which you point you make a right and follow the road for just over two miles to a large but primitive parking area, passing through a gate and cattle guard along the way. The road is rough but suitable for most passenger cars unless it is muddy. From the parking area, you follow the road downhill to where the trail leaves the road and begins its ascent to the rim of the Yakima Canyon.

Maps and Books

There is no specific map that covers this route, hikers will need to use either a USGS topographic map or print one from a digital source. However, for planning purposes and getting to and from the trailhead a state atlas such as the Delorme Washington Atlas and / or the Benchmark Washington Atlas can be useful. For a guidebook see Best Desert Hikes Washington by Alan L. Bauer and Dan A. Nelson, the Mountaineers Books, 2004.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 34 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.