The Timberline Trail is one of the classic trails in America and is classified as a National Historic Trail. It was designed in the 1930s primarily by the Civilian Conservation Core. For about forty miles the trail circumnavigates Mount Hood, the highest mountain in Oregon at 11,250 feet. Staying near treeline, a hiker on this trail will experience lush forest, wildflower meadows, rugged canyons with glacial fed streams, and view after view of Mount Hood.

Driving nearly 2 hours through forests and up to the trailhead, my brother and I discovered a crowded parking lot and a snow-covered view of one of the Pacific Northwest’s most scenic mountains. We would have the chance to experience this mountain, Mount Hood, for the next three days as we journeyed around it on the famous Timberline Trail. Above the parking lot the sun shone brightly and the sky was blue. There was a haze in the distance from forest fires, but surrounding visibility and the views of Mount Hood were outstanding. We finished packing our gear, double checked that we had our sunglasses and sunscreen, and soon began the loop going clockwise starting from the Timberline Lodge.

Backpacking Oregon's Timberline Trail

Near the lodge there were many day hikers as we joined the section of the Timberline Trail that is shared with the Pacific Crest Trail. There were beautiful wildflowers as we hiked under ski lifts with many views of Mount Hood. Soon a couple long distance hikers passed us as we completed our self-issued wilderness permit to enter the Mount Hood Wilderness. The trail brought us to a majestic canyon, one of the many we would cross as we trekked up and down the numerous ridges of the volcano that offered constant new perspectives and views of Mount Hood. A short distance later, we decided to take a scenic detour for what we heard would be some of the best views along the trail. The temperature felt hot as we hiked, exposed to the sun and the trail was surprisingly sandy, but the climb was well worth the effort when we reached Paradise Park.

Connecting back with the Timberline Trail, we began a long and beautiful descent in the forest. We reached one of the many water crossings on the trail, which are likely the greatest danger hikers will encounter on this hike. Some are more challenging than others. Bridges are rare on the Timberline Trail. Often there are simply logs placed across the river at a convenient point, but it is difficult to determine how strong or stable they are and often the water is moving so rapidly that fording would be dangerous.

We carefully made our way across the river and soon departed from the Pacific Crest Trail and continued on the Timberline Trail. The iconic Ramona Falls was located in a moss-covered forest. We considered setting up camp, but the camping area nearby was already crowded with tents and there was still plenty of daylight. The trail was cut into the mountainside with a section prone to landslides due to the steep terrain. Water flowed down the vibrantly green mossy cliff beside the trail. We arrived at Muddy Fork and began looking for a campsite. Unfortunately as the name indicates the water was brown and filled with silt. We needed to find water.

I journeyed off-trail through the boulders beside the creek looking for a flat place to camp and hoping to find a water source. As I looked up the dramatic V-shaped canyon, Mount Hood was beautifully colored with evening light. After careful searching, we decided on a campsite and heard from another hiker about a water source on the opposite side of Muddy Fork. The sunset colored the clouds pink and purple as my brother, realizing he had forgotten to bring a spoon, began to carve one out of an old stick he found on the ground.

It was a starry night, but the next morning we awoke to discover that we were enveloped in fog. We could no longer see Mount Hood as we began our longest day on the trail. The trail climbed gradually through the forest with the sun’s rays piercing through the trees in a scene of near perfection. Soon the trail joined a ridge and we climbed up out of the fog to a fantastic view of Mount Hood and down below to where we had camped at Muddy Fork.

As we journeyed around the northern portion of the loop, we could see many peaks of the Cascades to the north: Mount Adams, Mount Saint Helens, and Mount Rainier. We descended on an alternate route to Eden Park, a beautiful meadow with Mount Hood towering above. Back on the Timberline Trail, we passed a section of trail where much of the forest had burned. The trail was dusty and provided little shade from the sun, but there was a new perspective of Mount Hood around every corner.

Stream crossings were frequent and it was difficult to remember which ones were more challenging than others. There was a trend. The trail climbed up and over a ridge and then descended to a creek crossing to climb up the ridge on the opposite side to drop down to another stream crossing. At one of the streams there was a waterfall flowing under the late summer remains of a snow bridge. Briefly leaving the wilderness at Cloud Cap, we then started the eastern portion of the loop. The contrast on the eastern side of Mount Hood was quite drastic. No longer the lush and green forest, the eastern side of Mount Hood was barren and rocky. There was a nearly constant view of Mount Hood and also distant views to far Eastern Oregon.

We climbed to the highest point on the Timberline Trail and began to look for a place to camp with shelter in case the wind would increase at night. On the topo map, there appeared to be a large flat area a short distance off the trail and we went to explore. We discovered a nearly perfect campsite with a view of Mount Hood and a creek a short hike away. To the south, we could see Mount Jefferson, and unfortunately a forest fire beside it. The smoke was blowing to the east and by the evening there was a haze that decreased visibility. We had cell service and were able to check the status of the fire and discovered that it had recently started. In the darkness of night, the blazing orange glow of the fire could easily be seen.

The next and final morning we awoke to decreased visibility from the smoke, but the smoke provided an unusual sunrise. The sun rose as an orange circle through the smoke, but it still provided enough light to brighten Mount Hood’s eastern side with colorful morning light. We began the long descent past Gnarl Ridge and down to Newton Creek for a tricky crossing. The air quality didn’t seem to be affected by the smoke as we passed several beautiful waterfalls.

The Final Stretch

We passed under ski lifts at Mount Hood Meadows Resort. We would later learn that the next day a small forest fire would close the Timberline Trail through the area. We had barely made it through. After many more outstanding views and one last steep and sandy climb, the Timberline Lodge came into view and within minutes our loop of Mount Hood on the Timberline Trail was complete.

The Timberline Trail offers a unique hiking experience, and after hiking the trail’s 40 mile length around Mount Hood a hiker will be familiar with nearly the entire mountain, save for the very top itself. From lush green forests with rays of sunlight barely filtering through, to lupine-filled meadows and stark, exposed gray ridges that remind you that you are indeed hiking around a volcano, the trail offers something for everyone and is a hike I’ll never forget.

Need to Know

Information

The Timberline Trail is deservingly one of the most popular trails in Oregon. It is a heavily crowded trail, but the views are more than worth it. The trail has 9000 feet of elevation gain in about 40 miles with the highest elevation at 7300 feet. The trail circumvents the 11,249 ft. Mount Hood, a currently dormant stratovolcano that last erupted around 1790. Self-issue permits are free and available at trailheads.

Best Time to Go

Late summer for the wildflower display and easier stream crossings.

Getting There

From Portland, drive to the popular Timberline Lodge where most hikers begin the loop. There are other trailheads where you can start your hike as well.

Maps and Books

The National Geographic Trails Illustrated 321 Mount Hood Wilderness map covers the area. For reading and for more information on hiking opportunities see Backpacking Oregon: From River Valleys to Mountain Meadows as well as Day Hiking Mount Hood: A Year-Round Guide.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 50 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.