Located in the remote Southwest corner of Texas, Big Bend National Park provides numerous opportunities for hiking and backpacking. For those looking for a winter hike away from the cold and snow, Big Bend provides spectacular desert scenery in North America’s largest desert, the Chihuahua, including rugged mountains, expansive vistas, mighty canyons, the Rio Grande, and a variety of desert flora and fauna.

The classic backpacking trip in Big Bend National Park is the Outer Mountain Loop which is approximately 30 miles. While certainly a spectacular hike in its own right, a hike longer than 30 miles may be desired considering the amount of travel necessary to reach Big Bend. The route described here is an approximate 80 mile route that incorporates the majority of the Outer Mountain Loop, but adds Mule Ears Peaks, Elephant Tusk, Mariscal Canyon and the Rio Grande with both on-trail and off-trail hiking. I spent five days in the park, a little more than four days backpacking.

This hike taught important techniques about hiking in this scenic but harsh environment. The weather was splendid for mid-December, no rain and temperatures with highs in lower 80s and lows not far below freezing.

The Adventure

I woke from my slumbers as the sun filled the desert sky, looking around and discovering the immensity of Southwest Texas. No, this was not in Big Bend, but the side of U.S. Route 385 near Marathon. The initial plan was to begin hiking early this morning after driving from Dallas during the night, but more sleep was necessary than anticipated, meaning a short first day. Then a thought entered my mind. Why not spend an extra day in Big Bend? Explore some of the most popular attractions of my itinerary during a relaxing first day. One of the park’s highlights is the 30-mile Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. As I drove, the immersion in such a remote national park was inspiring. At the end of the road, there is a short trail to Santa Elena Canyon, a must-see location in the park. The trail led to the Rio Grande, then ascended on the right side of the canyon. I looked up, wondering if the trail would take me to the rim of the 1500 foot canyon. Soon I was in the heart of the canyon and could go no further as the walls were vertical on each side. In the distance upstream, the sun illuminated this dramatic canyon.

After the short hike back to my vehicle, I lost track of time with so much to see. It was time to make a decision. Do another day hike (the famous Window Trail) or begin my backpacking adventure? The intention of journeying to Big Bend was to backpack after all, so the decision was quite simple. After a scenic drive to the Chisos Basin Ranger Station, I met a disgruntled ranger who was helpful issuing my permit. Fortunately his anger was directed at his computer and not me, and soon I was experiencing the autonomy and independence that is rarely achieved outside the realm of backpacking. My climb out of the Chisos Basin began on the Laguna Meadow Trail with many forested and mountainous views along the way. Nearing the meadow, I looked to my right and saw a peak a short distance off-trail. Deciding to check it out, I was captivated by an impressive evening view back into the Basin!

The mountains, including Casa Grande Peak, were a peaceful orange-purple with the moon also visible. I arrived at my designated campsite, set up camp, and bundled up in my down jacket for warmth. It was soon dark and a chilly desert breeze numbed my fingers. Hearty burritos satiated my appetite before calling it a night. In the early morning, there was a rustling in the brush nearby. My heart began to race, thinking it might be a bear. I fumbled for my headlamp, turned it on, and let it shine through the mesh in the floor of my ZPacks Hexamid tent. Deer legs! There was no bear and I drifted back to sleep.

Beep-beep. Beep-beep. Beep-beep. Waking to the faint, high pitched alarm of my ultralight stopwatch, I groggily began packing my belongings. A layer of ice coated my sleeping bag; my Gatorade bottle was half frozen. Before departing, the rugged view of Emory Peak was enjoyed.

Along the Blue Creek Trail, there were many unique desert flora including cacti, grasses, and trees. There was, however, no creek. I took a short break at the historical Homer Wilson Ranch, one of the largest early 20th century ranches. It’s just an empty building now. Nearby was some free water in a bear locker.

Next, the Dodson Trail looped around an unnamed peak. Climbing up reminded me of one of the important lessons that can be learned while backpacking: don’t forget to look back. Looking back provides the opportunity to experience the journey from a new perspective, one with deeper meaning, based off experience of past travels. Departing the Dodson brought me to the Smoky Creek Trail where I saw the first natural water source, some puddles resting in rocky depressions. There were areas that required a little scrambling, and the trail has been re-routed differently than my map. This caused confusion. Hiking in the opposite direction of my route was unintentional but did occur temporarily.

After this realization, I turned around only to find myself at a steep pour-off. The question at this point was: backtrack on trail or traverse over a ridge that looked passable on my topo map? I went for the traverse. With each step, I was unsure whether loose rock would send me sliding over the steep edge, but I took my time carefully, while simultaneously enjoying one of the rarest views of Mule Ears Peaks. Soon I was on the other side and descending to flat terrain in front of these uniquely eroded volcanic layered peaks. Being thirsty, but trying to conserve water, I scoured the area for Smoky Spring, but found no water. While hiking to the unofficially named Jack’s Pass, the sun set behind me. Deep inside the complex canyon system, it was soon dark. An eventful day was complete.

Early the next morning I continued my eastward climb to Jack’s Pass. The climb wasn't too steep, but was the biggest of the day. There were great views of Dominguez Mountain at the top. The descent on the other side was significantly steeper and took some time, one instance required taking off my pack and lowering it by hand. There were some nice yellow flowers on the way as well. Continuing the descent, the search for Dominguez Spring commenced. I found it by some ruins, slowly trickling down the rocks. At the main source there was a small pool to dunk my water bottles. After joining the Dominguez Spring Trail for a short distance my route directed me off trail to flat terrain to the east. Walking through this vastness of the desert was a new hiking experience, making me feel quite small. Journeying beside the Mariscal Mountain Range to the east, knowing that the next day I would be following the same spine in the opposite direction was thrilling.

This southeasterly hike continued until I met a road slightly north of the Mariscal Canyon Rim Trail. Planning to return to the trail, I stayed on the road until it met the Rio Grande River. While wading in the water I realized its importance to this desert habitat. After returning to the Mariscal Canyon Rim Trail, the trail ascended to the canyon overlook. Sunset was near and the mountains were colored gold with the sun's light. The sun had already set by the time I reached the canyon overlook, but the 1400 foot view remained impressive. My voice echoed off the canyon walls. There was a small spot to camp with views of the Rio Grande far below to the west and the immense canyon walls towering to the east.

In the early morning I found another overlook into Mariscal canyon that allowed me to see all the way to the river at the bottom. The colorful morning light lit up the mountains. I continued up the Mariscal Canyon Rim Trail as the sun began to rise above the mountains in Mexico. The trail soon brought me to a point where it turns south and does a half loop around Mariscal Mountain, the southernmost extension of the Rockies in the U.S. The climb to the mountain from here looked achievable so I began the off-trail climb. It didn't take long to reach the top of the mountain’s spine. Looking to the northwest revealed the sweeping desert traversed yesterday. Following the level and narrow spine was fairly easy with unlimited 360 degree views! The final ascent to the summit involved a fun scramble up some big boulders onto ledges. Continuing north, the difficulty of the traverse increased with many converging valleys dropping to the east and west. It was challenging to stay on the spine without having to descend into valleys.

Mariscal Mine, an early 1900s quicksilver (mercury) mine, is located at the north end of the mountain ridge. After a brief exploration of the historical buildings, I went off trail heading northwest toward the Black Gap Road and the Elephant Tusk Trail. Thirst was increasing, but conserving water was a priority due to unknown future water availability. As the golden evening light was illuminating Elephant Tusk, I found some water flowing down a side stream. Getting this water was cause for celebration. I found a flat spot to place my polycro ground sheet and examined the area for any creatures. A large grasshopper was hiding under a nearby rock. Elephant Tusk was directly in front of me, the summit some 2000 feet above, as I gazed into the star-filled Big Bend sky.

Shortly before sunrise, I began what was intended to be my final day. There was ample water along the trail. Unfortunately I quickly lost the trail, hiking in the wrong direction for some time. Not sure of my location I pulled out my phone to pair it with my InReach SE as a makeshift GPS. Unfortunately the dead battery symbol appeared on my phone’s screen. Grabbing my compass, I decided to simply hike north to the Dodson Trail. This resulted in journeys over and down many ridges and valleys. In one instance, a familiar structure of rocks piled together resulted in feelings of joy and relief, only to be diminished by the lack of future rock cairns. After much of the morning, I made it to the Fresno drainage and followed its intersection with the Dodson Trail. Along the way, thick brush obstructed my path, at times taller than my 6’3” frame. Fortunately the taller it was, the less likely it was to tear my body and pack apart.

Another Trip Comes to a Close

Back on the Outer Mountain Loop, the Dodson Trail gave me a final view of Elephant Tusk, which seemed to be mocking me. The high-quality trail allowed me to immerse myself in the beauty of the South Rim while making up for lost time. Eventually the trail turned north and my route joined the Juniper Canyon Trail. Beginning gradually, it soon began to climb. The mountains felt unreachable, but soon the trail’s steepness increased, bringing me into a calming juniper forest, quite the contrast from the flat desert floor from a few hours before.

The trail continued to ascend, switchback after switchback ascending over 3000 feet. Sunset was near, yet the top was not in sight. Near the top, looking over Juniper Canyon in the evening light provided one of the best views of the entire adventure. With darkness approaching, I finally arrived at Boot Spring. The decision was made to journey back to the Chisos Basin by way of headlamp. While on the Pinnacles Trail, lights glimmered far below. Meandering through meadows allowed for peaceful stargazing. Soon I was back at the visitor center, with long-lasting memories from this remote desert environment. Putting my pack in the back of my truck, a new adventure began: Home to the snowy land of Michigan.

Need to Know

Information

Permits required for overnight camping. Camping is only allowed in designated sites in the Chisos Mountains. Zone camping is permitted elsewhere. $30 entrance fee (week), $10 for backcountry use. Depending on the season, water may be very scarce. Know your average water intake and don’t underestimate the effect that a hot and dry desert can have on your thirst. As a solo hiker in this remote environment I carried an inReach two-way satellite communicator in case of emergency.

Best Time to Go

Between October and April to avoid extreme heat, mid to late spring for cactus flowers.

Getting There

Driving is the best option. Make sure to have ample gas for the very remote drive. There’s even a border patrol checkpoint on the drive. There are several routes to the park depending on departure location. The closest airport is in Midland, TX.

Maps & Books

National Geographic Trails Illustrated 225 Big Bend National Park map. For guidebooks, see Best Easy Day Hikes, Big Bend National Park as well as Hiking Big Bend National Park.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 15 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.