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An important core backpacking gear item, your backpacking sleeping bag needs to be light enough to carry easily, pack small enough as to not take over your entire pack, and most importantly keep you warm and comfortable at night. In this guide we’ll focus on the best backpacking sleeping bags currently on the market by temperature rating.

As this is a backpacking focused article weight of the sleeping bag and warmth to weight ratio will be of a paramount focus here, with down bags ruling the roost. For a basecamp scenario, synthetic bags would be worth consideration. See our guide on down vs. synthetic insulation for more information and background. For the purposes of this article, we will focus on features, weight, and performance.
Best 30F+ & Summer Rated Backpacking Sleeping Bags
This can be a complicated category with many options. Bags in this range can be very light, but early morning hours can be a bit crisp and ample warmth will be appreciated during the night. My pick hands down would be the Zpacks Classic 30 degree sleeping bag. Weighing in at just 14 ounces and going for $440, this bag is made with DownTek 900 fill power water resistant down and is available in 7 different sizes.
Going to a hoodless sleeping bag (I mostly use the Zpacks 20 degree) has changed my backcountry sleeping for the better – now I can turn with the bag, or inside the bag, no matter. Additionally with the zipper on the bottom maximum heat is retained and you have no zipper at the top (leaking the most hot air) no matter if you’re a back sleeper or a side sleeper. In milder conditions above the shoulders just a warm hat works well for me, but if it gets cold at night you can add in an additional goose hood.

Traditional top-tier manufacturers include Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering. When it comes to Western Mountaineering, they offer a variety of bags in this category, many that don’t have much difference between each other from a big picture point of view. Their MegaLite 30 degree sleeping bag weighs in at 24 ounces and is a nice option if you like more traditional design features. The MegaLite uses 850 fill down and is a wider bag with a passive draft collar that I’ve found is sufficient down to around freezing.
Western Mountaineering bags aren’t cheap – the MegaLite will set you back about $600 – but with proper care these are bags that will last darn near forever. For slimmer users and in warmer conditions one could consider the Western Mountaineering SummerLite (around $500, 19 ounces) – although we’ve found this one starts to take on a chill as temperatures close in towards the freezing mark, it would be ideal for warmer nights.

Both the MegaLite and SummerLite from Western Mountaineering feature a fully baffled construction (the bag is not sewn through to create the baffles – a sewn through bag results in a lighter and possibly less expensive construction but will have cold spots when temperatures drop).
The Western Mountaineering FlyLite is a newer bag that is an option for warmer weather trips – it’s rated to 36 degrees, weighs just ~14 ounces in a standard width, and retails for just over $500. This makes it the lightest fully baffled bag Western Mountaineering offers.

Draft tubes, draft collars, continuous baffles, and so on are not as critical during warmer conditions and their omission can save weight, but I find I've always appreciated these features in the field.
Feathered Friends additionally offers top of the line down sleeping bags including the Hummingbird UL 30 ($550, about 22 ounces). This is a narrower bag (saves weight, more efficient) so keep that in mind, but if you’ll fit, as with Western Mountaineering this 950 fill power down bag is expensive but worth it.
For women Feathered Friends offers their Egret UL 30 ($550, about 24 ounces) with an even narrower cut but in a more women’s-specific shape. Wider bags from Feathered Friends include the Swift UL 30 ($580, about 26 ounces) and the more middle of the road width wise Swallow UL 30 (24 ounces, $570). It will be hard to go wrong with a Feathered Friends bag, so long as you get the right fit.

Another option is the REI Co-op Magma 30 (averaging around 25 ounces, $380) – offered in no less than 9 sizes for an almost custom type of fit, this bag keeps it lightweight via use of an 850 fill power water resistant down, standard features, and you even get an interior pocket. While of all things backpacking a down sleeping bag is one place where I would not try to cut budget, this is one bag that could be considered more in the budget category if you catch it on sale.
Summary: Best 30F+ & Summer Rated Sleeping Bags (and rating F)
Zpacks Classic 30
Western Mountaineering MegaLite (30)
Western Mountaineering SummerLite (32)
Western Mountaineering FlyLite (36)
Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 30
Feathered Friends Egret UL 30
Feathered Friends Swift UL 30
Feathered Friends Swallow UL 30
REI Co-op Magma 30
Best 20 Degree Range Sleeping Bags
Everything in nature seems to change below freezing, and at these temperatures I find that it becomes more important to consider those extra features like a nice draft tube and hood, with a draft collar being very much appreciated. For me and many others that backpack mostly in mountain terrain, the 20 degree bag gets the most use 3 seasons out of the year. These are your bread and butter sleeping bags, and from my perspective if you’re looking for the best sleeping bag in this category, you’ll likely be looking at the same brands we’ve previously discussed.
Feathered Friends offers their versatile Hummingbird UL 20 (24 ounces, $610) – with the Feathered Friends Egret 20 (~28 ounces, around $610) being a women’s-specific option in this temperature range. These are narrower bags to save the most weight. However, if you like a little more space in a bag as I do, check out the Swallow UL 20 (27 ounces, $630).

In regards to Western Mountaineering, we can narrow this down to the venerable UltraLite 20 degree (29 ounces, $630) – which is your narrow / standard option – and the wider and perhaps more comfortable 20 degree AlpinLite (31 ounces, $710). Although it’s a bit heavier the AlpinLite’s space wins out for me out of these two bags, but as with Feathered Friends, you can’t go wrong here.
That said as previously mentioned and although I have had many a comfortable backcountry night in a WM AlpinLite, my preference for a backpacking sleeping bag has evolved towards the hoodless category. The Zpacks 20 Degree Classic sleeping bag (~19 ounces, $460) is my current choice for a bag in this temperature range – I find at these temperatures a hoodless bag is ideal (so long as I wear the warm hat I already take and wear a jacket with a hood). You can find my review of the Zpacks 20 here, although Zpacks has since updated the bag just a bit with upgrades. Zpacks again also offers their goose hood, but with a warm hat and jacket hood, I haven’t personally needed this until temps fall below 20. That said if you’re not ready to give up your sleeping bag hood, Zpacks also offers their 20 degree Mummy sleeping bag (23 ounces in medium standard, $580) with a built-in traditional hood.

When on sale, for a more budget option in this category we’ll go ahead and put the REI Co-op Magma 15 in this category (comfort limit: 21 degrees). With a weight of around 36 ounces depending on size and retailing at $429 full price, this bag offers a very reasonable weight in 9 different sizes for a tailored fit, and at a very reasonable price especially if you catch it on sale.
Summary: Best 20 Degree Range Sleeping Bags
Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 20
Feathered Friends Egret UL 20
Feathered Friends Swallow UL 20
Western Mountaineering UltraLite (20)
Western Mountaineering AlpinLite (20)
Zpacks 20 Degree Classic
Zpacks 20 Degree Mummy
REI Co-op Magma 15
Best Winter and Cold Weather (Zero and 10 Degree) Sleeping Bags
I find that it’s more versatile to have 2 warmer rated bags, combining them to form a winter sleep system when needed for cold winter trips rather than keeping a bag from this category on hand. As an example, I’ve combined a 20 degree and a more summer-oriented bag and stayed warm (with appropriate sleeping pads and a total r-value for the temperature) on winter trips nearing minus 20F. That said if you have one 3 season bag that covers all seasons other than winter, sleep especially cold and want a warmer bag for 3 season mountain trips, or are looking to add in a dedicated winter bag, a bag in this category may be desired.
Same players, different temperature ratings again here. The 2lb., $735 Western Mountaineering VersaLite 10 degree sleeping bag is a solid choice on the warmer end of this category. One nice thing about the Versalite is that it’s in the middle width-wise – just right. Going back a bit to their 20 degree options if the UltraLite was a bit too tight, and the AlpinLite a bit too wide, the VersaLite will likely be a perfect choice.

For a women’s-specific bag check out the 10 degree Feathered Friends Petrel UL 10 (2lbs, $660). This is a super high quality women’s bag that is not unheard of on packing lists even for summer trips in the mountains for cold sleepers. As a women’s bag I haven’t personally used the Petrel, but having seen this bag being used in the field on many occasions I’m never surprised by the loft of Petrel – you may need a bigger pack!
At these temperatures I do think a sleeping bag hood is something good to have – you want to retain every bit of heat your body puts off during the night within a singular compartment and bag. Thus the 28 ounce, $600 Zpacks Mummy Sleeping Bag in a 10 degree would be well worth consideration here for hikers looking to save weight.

On cold winter trips, I prioritize warmth and features over weight.
The colder it becomes the less I am personally concerned about weight – I prioritize warmth and comfort – and the last thing I’d want is a constricting bag on a winter night that could last 16 hours or more. In their wide mummy series the Feathered Friends Raven 10 UL (34 ounces, $700) would make for a top of the line choice in a 10 degree bag, but if saving the weight is more critical (via less width), the Feathered Friends Lark 10 UL (31 ounces, $680) would be the next logical choice here.
Pushing the rating to 0F Feathered Friends offers their women’s Murre ES 0 degree bag (3lbs, $780) as well as their Ibis ES 0 Degree (50 ounces, $820). With a focus on heating efficiency, both of these bags have a bit of a narrow cut to be aware of – as with many things, there are pros and cons.
Summary: Best Winter and Cold Weather Sleeping Bags
Western Mountaineering VersaLite (10)
Feathered Friends Petrel UL 10
Zpacks 10 Degree Mummy
Feathered Friends Raven 10 UL
Feathered Friends Lark 10 UL
Feathered Friends Murre ES 0
Feathered Friends Ibis ES 0
Deep Winter / Expedition Sleeping Bags
While I prefer to combine 2 bags to make a poor man’s expedition bag for general winter backpacking trips in the lower 48, if I were to plan an Arctic expedition, a cold mountaineering summit attempt, or for some type of cold northern basecamp type scenario, an expedition bag would certainly be appreciated in these unique circumstances.

Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering offer some very intriguing, and impressive, choices here that both throw plenty of goose down at the issue. The Western Mountaineering Bison Stormshield (69 ounces, $1360) is rated to -40F with 10” of loft and a weather-resistant shell. This bag is sized generously for additional comfort on those long winter nights.
On the Feathered Friends side, their -40F solution can be found in the Snow Goose ES -40 (65 ounces, $1170). This bag is another bag that’s sized generously for more comfort and space if you’ll be spending a lot of time in your sleeping bag. If -40F isn’t warm enough however, the 78 ounce, $1360 Snowy Owl ES -60 bag from Feathered Friends may be up your alley for the most epic of arctic level expeditions.
Summary: Deep Winter / Expedition Sleeping Bags
Western Mountaineering Bison Stormshield (-40)
Feathered Friends Snow Goose ES -40
Feathered Friends Snowy Owl -60

Whether it's an expedition sleeping bag rated to 60 below or a featherweight summer bag that packs up smaller than a water bottle, there is a sleeping bag on the market for every possible use and scenario.
In Conclusion
A critical item on your gear list, there are a few ways to go about your sleeping bag strategy. You could choose to go with a bag rated for the lowest temperatures you’ll ever backpack in, but this bag may be overly bulky and heavy for warm summer trips (albeit workable). To save weight, I like to go with a 2 bag system, a warmer bag for downright summer-like weather, and a 20 degree bag that gets the vast majority of use for 3-season trips in the mountains where lows in the 20s are not uncommon in August. When I head out on a winter trip, I combine them.
Whether you opt for a 1 bag approach or a multitude of bags ideal for every scenario, sleeping warm adds to any trip – and while a slightly heavier and warmer bag may not rule the ultralight spreadsheet, some temperature rating buffer is always appreciated at night when you’re out there.
For a list of sleeping bags from various manufacturers that you can sort and filter by temperature rating and more, see this page at REI Co-op. For background info on sleeping bags, refer to our guide on How to Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag.
For additional related “big 3” and “big 4” gear selection, take a look at our articles: Choosing the Best Backpacking Sleeping Pad as well as Best Backpacking Backpacks by Category, and Best Backpacking Tents by Application and Budget.

One of the big 3 of backpacking gear choices (backpack, tent or shelter, and sleeping bag), the backpacking backpack you choose will have a profound impact on your comfort during the hiking day. Your pack will also be one of the more expensive items you’ll purchase, and to get the best pack within your budget a little research will be needed as there are a myriad of packs out there on the market.

In this guide, we’ll look at the best backpacking packs currently on the market based upon anticipated pack weight and packing category (ultralight, lightweight, heavy weight) along with some budget options as well. For the purposes of this guide, we’ll focus on performance, availability, reasonable price, and reasonable longevity for the intended purpose.
Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpacks
If you’re a weekend or overnight backpacker and / or manage to keep your total pack weight at around 25lbs or less, more ultralight backpacking packs may be worth a look. That said, if you do plan on going over this weight from time to time, and prefer a quiver of one, the next section in this article may be more appropriate to evaluate. For ultralight loads however, the frameless ULA Photon (35L total, 26 ounces, $220) from Ultralight Adventure Equipment is not the lightest pack out there, but is tough and has excellent comfort at these weights along with a livable pocket configuration. For a bit of a space and a carrying ability upgrade, look at the ULA Ohm (63L, 34 ounces, $280) as well as the ULA CDT (54L total, 27 ounces, $220).

The Zpacks Nero Ultra 38L (38L total space, 10 ounces, $250) offers an ultralight option for the lightest of ultralight packers, but in typical Zpacks style still has organization and features you need in a pack of this nature. The Super Nero Ultra 50L boosts the space up to 50L total, with a pack weight of just 12 ounces at $270. Both of these packs are suggested for 20lbs or less of total pack weight. Another option is the MLD (Mountain Laurel Designs) Burn. This pack weighs in just over a pound and retails for $325 with 38L of storage. Featuring the tried and true combination of roll top main compartment, outside pocket, side pockets, and hipbelt pockets, the Burn is a nice option for ultralight overnights or beyond, so long as you are indeed focusing on the “ultra” of ultralight.
Summary: Best Ultralight Backpacking Backpacks
ULA Photon
ULA Ohm
ULA CDT
Zpacks Nero Ultra 38
Zpacks Super Nero Ultra 50
MLD Burn
Best Lightweight & Long Distance Backpacks
This is the bread and butter category of backpacking packs if you’re focused on lightweight backpacking, planning longer trips where saving weight is a priority, or if you're planning on thru-hiking a long trail. These are the packs that are just right most of the time, just fine (if a little under-loaded) for an overnight, and can be pushed for longer trips – although they may not be the most comfortable for hauling heavy loads the first few days out and until some of that consumable weight is reduced.

In this category and if your pack weight will be under 35-40lbs two packs from ULA Equipment have been a favorite choice of both mine and the backpacking community for years. My pick is the ULA Circuit (total volume 68L, 38.5 ounces, $300) that I’ve used on overnights up to 10 day trips and everything in between, although it’s definitely pushing it for trips over a week for me (whether you’d want to grab a pack from the next section in this article is a personal call).
If you’ll be packing a little heavier, trend towards longer trips, and / or like more space the ULA Catalyst (75L total, 44.4 ounces, $320) will make more sense. To save a little weight and for a more waterproof pack Ultra versions of both of these packs are available. These two packs feature my favorite storage configuration for the trail (as previously described): large roll top main compartment, large outside back pocket, side pockets, and hipbelt pockets. In either case, you simply cannot go wrong with these two venerable ULA packs if you’ll be carrying less than 40lbs fully loaded (I’ve had 50lbs in the Circuit, not suggested but the pack was no worse for wear). And as a quick note if you're looking for a great kid's pack look no further than the ULA Spark.

Another and newer pack to check out in this category is the Durston Kakwa 55 (around 60L total, about 31 ounces, $200-$260). This pack can be either had in the more affordable UltraGrid fabric option or Ultra 200X. Either way you get a pack with impressive organization at reasonable prices, and a pack that’s quite light but still can carry up to 45lbs.
A note on Ultra: while many manufacturers have begun using Ultra (100X / 200X / 400X) fabrics for packs, durability has been mixed on the original fabric and the jury is still out on newer, further reinforced X versions. That said an Ultra pack will get you a completely waterproof pack (except seams unless taped).
UltraGrid however, is a heavier denier nylon with a UHMWPE gridstop and a PU coating on the inside. This coating is rated at a 1500mm hydrostatic head – that’s as waterproof as some tents on the market. Fabrics similar to UltraGrid have proven themselves over the years. They will become more water-resistant in time, but these fabrics have held up very well to the trail – on or off trail for that matter – and have handled abrasion situations very well in my experience. Long story short, it is hard to beat a good gridstop fabric for packs.

Gridstop may not be the most waterproof, but I have gridstop packs with a decade+ of usage that are still quite water resistant and there are other ways to keep your backpacking gear dry. This would include using a pack liner or a large dry bag or two…or alternatively a trash compactor bag would be suggested in regards to pack waterproofing. Gridstops aren’t as trendy as laminates, but I fully expect 10 years or more of use out of packs made with these gridstop ~200+ denier nylon fabrics and there is a lot to be said for that.
Back to backpacks, for the lightest of the light, the Zpacks Arc Haul Ultra 60L (60L total storage, about 22 ounces, $400) is worth consideration – this pack is rated to carry 40lbs via a carbon fiber frame system with integrated back ventilation and as a bonus is also available in a women's specific version. The pack uses a lighter Ultra 100X to save weight – so this pack will be better for users that are willing to be a little careful with their gear in order to save the weight.
Summary: Best Lightweight & Long Distance Backpacks
ULA Circuit
ULA Catalyst
ULA Spark (for kids)
Durston Kakwa 55
Zpacks Arc Haul Ultra 60 & Women's
Best Load Hauler Backpacking Packs
Weight (of the pack itself...or weight carried within it for that matter) can quickly spiral out of control in this category, with some manufacturers offering packs here that can weigh well over 5lbs. In this category we have a few main venerable larger players, with one example being the Gregory Baltoro and the Gregory Deva series, in particular the Baltoro 75 liter (~80 ounces, $360) and the Baltoro 85 Pro (around 88 ounces, $400), with the women’s version being offered in the Deva 70 backpack (about 75 ounces, $360) as well as the larger Deva 80 Pro pack (~84 ounces, $400).
If you’re looking for a cushy mainstream get-it-done pack to haul large loads that can be on your doorstep a few days from now, the Baltoro and Deva packs have been a go-to for many years and are rated to carry up to 70lbs. Saving weight for the pack itself is not however a strong point here.

If you’ll be hauling a heavy load (long trips, lots of food and water, or extras like packrafts or camera gear) but still have a lightweight approach like me, you may need to look at smaller companies to fill this niche. Leaders in this category include the Superior Wilderness Designs Wolverine 95L (a 70L is also offered) pack as well as their 95L Big Wild pack (no large outside back pocket), also offered in a 70L version.
While color is usually not my primary concern when selecting a pack, these two SWD packs for better or worse are only made in Ultra 400X fabric which only comes in white or black – which I’d have to say, would be towards my last 2 choices when it comes to something like a pack or tent color. That said, these packs are rated to carry up over 50lbs for around $400 and will come in around 40 ounces for the pack itself, plus or minus depending on options. Be sure to check out their available add-ons if you want something like a hydration port or hipbelt pockets.
A couple other packs stand out here: Nunatak makes extraordinary gear and offers their Plateau Pack (around 40 ounces, $350) with an up to 75L capacity and capable of carrying 50+ lbs. If you need something even larger, check out the Sockdolager Equipment Bad Larry pack ($475, 3lbs or so depending on options) with Dan Ransom’s tubular aluminum twin stays. The 90L Bad Larry was designed for packrafting, but packrafting specific features can be removed and you end up with a competitive backpacking load hauler pack. These two packs are more custom built and you’ll have to see if things like hydration ports or hipbelt pockets can be added. Be it Superior Wilderness Designs or Nunatak or Sockdolager, plan in advance and buckle up for some wait times.

Seek Outside also offers a couple packs worth checking out – although Seek Outside seems to lean towards the lightweight backcountry hunting crowd, some of their products can be adapted to lightweight backpacking like the 79L Divide 2.0 ($505, 55 ounces). However, Seek Outside takes no custom requests so if you want something like a hydration port, you’re out of luck unless you want to start cutting and sewing yourself. That said Seek Outside’s frames are uniquely rated for pretty much whatever weight you can physically carry, so if you’re wanting to sign up for a suffer fest in regards to pack weight, these are the packs that would be up to the task.
Summary: Best Load Hauler Backpacking Packs
Gregory Baltoro
Gregory Deva
SWD Big Wild 95
SWD Wolverine 95
Nunatak Plateau Pack
Sockdolager Bad Larry
Seek Outside Divide 2.0
Best Budget Backpacking Packs
If you want to keep it under $200 (at least before shipping and tax) – which I would very much consider a budget range for a backpacking pack – the previously mentioned Durston Kakwa 55 in UltraGrid offers quite a bit of value in this category as long as you’re packing somewhat lightweight, with the REI Co-op Flash 55 (about 55 liters, just under 3lbs, $200) offering another option that’s worth ample consideration. The REI Co-op Flash has the bonus of being offered in both a men’s and women’s version and in my experience, this line has demonstrated good value and very acceptable performance. Another interesting sub-$200 option can be found in the Osprey Rook 65 backpack (men's) and the Osprey Renn 65L (women's). Designed to carry up to 40lbs, these packs offer 65 liters of space, basic features, and can be had for about $190 while weighing in just under 4lbs.

A pack from the REI Co-op Flash series.
It is also worth checking out the REI Co-op Outlet from time to time, as you can often find many packs or last year’s model that will be perfectly serviceable at a discount here. For a budget load hauler pack, this can be tough since these are typically the larger and more feature-packed (expensive) options. The aforementioned REI Co-op Outlet is a good place to start your search. That said the Kelty Asher 85 is also worth consideration – as you’d expect it’s an 85 liter pack that weighs in close to 6 pounds, but can carry a heavy load and retails for just under $200 full price.
Summary: Best Budget Backpacking Packs
Durston Kakwa UltraGrid
REI Co-op Flash 55
Osprey Rook 65
Osprey Renn 65
REI Co-op Outlet Packs
Kelty Asher 85
My Approach to Backpacking Packs and in Conclusion
If you like to keep your gear simple and want one pack to do it all, there are a few ways to go about your approach. You can pick a pack rated for the heaviest load you’ll ever carry, and while it may be a bit much for shorter trips it will work. Or you could go for a pack rated for the typical load you’ll carry, but your shoulders may be complaining at the start of longer trips. This can be done if you’re only rarely expecting to take these kinds of trips and saving the cash is more important than comfort (not my choice).

You could also pick a pack for overnights, another for most trips in the middle, and an even larger pack for load hauling and the longest excursions. For me, I like two packs: one do it all (from the lightweight and long distance category) and another load hauler for extended trips with extra gear. One advantage of this route (multiple packs) is that it spreads the wear out a bit and your packs will last longer.
For more information on how to choose a backpacking backpack, size, materials, and pack features and considerations, see our guide on How to Choose the Best Backpacking and Hiking Backpack. For a large selection of various backpacking packs that you can sort and filter by capacity and more, see this page at REI Co-op. For Related reading on the "big 3" see our articles, Best Backpacking Tents by Application and Budget as well as How to Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag.

Fill Power is a grading system for goose / duck down. Often abbreviated as FP. Higher fill power will add more loft and warmth to an outdoor garment or sleeping bag at the same given amount of weight. Measured using a cubic inch per oz system. 500 fill power down will fill 500 cubic inches of space per ounce used. 900 will fill 900 cubic inches of space per ounce.

A high fill power down cluster.
What Fill Power is Best?
It all depends on the application. For use off the trail (in town, at home) just about any fill power will do, as weight of the garment or sleeping bag is not a concern. This would be a good time to save the cash over a higher fill power option. For the trail however where every ounce counts, a higher fill power jacket like the REI Co-op Magma 850 will save weight; going with the highest fill power you can get that is still in the budget will get you gear that weighs less but could contain the same loft (and warmth) as a heavier lower fill power down option.

To sum things up, in a higher fill product the same amount of garment / bag warmth can be achieved for less weight. Higher fill power is considerably more expensive than lower level down.
For more on backpacking insulation, see our article Backpacking Gear: Down vs. Synthetic Insulation. For more information on jackets, see our article on 3-season backpacking clothing, and for sleeping bags, check out our guide on How the Choose the Best Backpacking Sleeping Bag.
Editor's Note: This Jargon installment originally appeared in Issue 2 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can find the original article here.

In 1943 and after years of fruitless political wrangling, President Franklin D. Roosevelt finally used his unilateral authority under the Antiquities Act to establish Jackson Hole National Monument. The state challenged the monument declaration in court. Ranchers drove cattle across the Monument in direct defiance of Federal authority. On one side, there were accusations about rich outsiders interfering in local matters. On the other side, conservationists launched a campaign to convince the public that the ecological and historical significance of the area should be forever preserved.
In 1950, all sides reached an uneasy compromise. The new National Monument, encompassing much of western Wyoming’s famed Jackson Hole, would be incorporated into the existing (but previously much smaller) Grand Teton National Park. In exchange, Congress would amend the Antiquities Act to curtail the President’s ability to designate future National Monuments in the state of Wyoming.

Nearly seventy years later, a similar drama played out in southeastern Utah. After years of fruitless political wrangling, outgoing president Barack Obama established the 1.3 million-acre Bears Ears National Monument at the request of five local tribes who consider the area sacred. The ultimate outcome for Bears Ears still remains to be seen. Continued partisan squabbling continues to rule the day. But let’s shift our focus. Politics and 115-year-old acts of Congress aside, let’s instead put the focus where it rightfully belongs – on the land itself. Let’s journey, as I do several times a year, to Bears Ears.
Backpacking in Bears Ears
On a chilly November’s day, we begin our hike on the expansive, flat-topped Cedar Mesa. Bears Ears is a place of huge views from horizon to horizon. It’s wild land on a large scale. The Monument’s borders don’t just include the famous Bears Ears buttes themselves, but a huge swath of landscape. We wander along a disused jeep road for a few miles, marveling at the cryptobiotic soil crust that’s started to make a comeback now that vehicles no longer roam here. We enjoy the rising sun illuminating the distant Mancos Mesa and the tips of the Bears Ears.

Soon enough, the old jeep road ends and we join one of the few maintained trails in the monument. Like most enduring projects, it was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 30s. Young, underemployed men moved an inordinate amount of rock, scratching and blasting their way down into the canyon. Notwithstanding their efforts, the trail is still rugged and unmarked, but it’s infinitely easier than most approaches into this sprawling 70-mile canyon system. As we descend, our large-scale world is replaced by an intimate one. Below the rim, hidden alcoves and brush-choked side canyons replace the huge views.

Our minds drift back 700 years in time as we wander up-canyon in search of a campsite. The canyon is beautiful to be sure, but tough to eke out an existence in. Small pools and potholes are only as dependable as the recent rains. Algae often fouls the few perennial springs around here. Even modest agriculture seems unfathomable.
Yet, people lived here for centuries. It’s hard to go more than a mile or two in this great sprawling canyon without seeing evidence of Ancestral Puebloan presence. Enigmatic images (some notable and bold, others faint and hidden) are painted or etched onto smooth rock walls. Sooty cook fires, extinguished for more than seven centuries now, still stain the undersides of great sandstone alcoves. Granaries dot nearly-inaccessible ledges. Intrepid travelers can even spot a housing complex or ceremonial kivas – all from a respectful distance, of course. Nowadays, the gulch is a place of natural wonder and wildness. But it doesn’t take a particularly active historical imagination to see this canyon bustling with the goings-on of any society – agriculture, familial squabbles, religious contemplation, celebration of holidays and life landmarks, and even warfare from time to time.

For many years, it was believed that the ancients mysteriously disappeared around 1300 AD. But more up-to-date scholarship, congruent with the testimony of many oral traditions, suggests that the people didn’t disappear at all. They simply moved south and east, perhaps in search of a more hospitable climate. Human habitation in the Bears Ears region has always teetered on the edge of the abyss in one form of another. The ancients experienced numerous cycles of flourishing and collapse over the period of a few thousand years. In more recent times, resource utilization and extraction (causing additional controversy), be it grazing land or uranium/petroleum deposits, has continued the boom-and-bust cycle for many towns in the area. As the local climate continues to get warmer and drier, will drought once again cause the stagnation or even recession of civilization in this part of the world?
Such ruminations abruptly cease as the sun makes its departure behind the canyon rim. Even the dim and meager sunshine, shining low in the southern sky at this time of year, cast a feeble warmth over the landscape while it was up. As soon as it’s gone though, the temperature plummets. It’s time to eat and go to bed.

Dinner is a simple affair, cooked and eaten quickly as the cold settles in. I can only get through a couple chapters of a truly terrible paperback before bundling into bed. As usual, the sky is clear and the stars are bright. They’re conditions that would make any astronomer envious, but the only observatory around here is my downy sleeping bag, flopped out under a starry tapestry.
Not all is idyllic of course. The same harsh climate that the ancients contended with roars to life, driving strong winds down the canyon and stinging us with sand. The romanticism of a cowboy camp on a dark night has only yielded me watery eyes and more than a little grit in my teeth.

We’re warm enough overnight, but barely. The wind has a certain bite at this time of year. But just two months earlier, it was scorching hot. It’s hard to win in a land of extremes. Even now, locals contend with drought. A hundred head of cattle choke down meager vegetation and congregate around a handful of ramshackle-looking but meticulously-maintained waterworks. It still isn’t easy to scratch together a living in these parts. It’s little wonder that certain ranchers oppose any additional regulations, even though the Monument text preserves existing grazing leases.

We pack up quickly the next morning, skipping breakfast, and climb back up the way we came. On the mesa top, juniper trees pock the landscape. Far fewer Ancestral Puebloan sites are preserved up here, owing to the harsh climate. But some sites do remain, many of them fortifications designed to repel enemy attacks. In modern times, local tribes use the mesa tops for gathering firewood and foraging for other traditional plants. The native legacy of Bears Ears is not limited to the past; it continues right up to the present day. It’s no wonder that the tribes were the earliest, loudest, and most consistent voice calling for the protection of this vital area.
Reflecting on a Hike in Bears Ears
Back at the car, we reflect on the trip. It was a short one. But Bears Ears isn’t a place to crush miles. Bears Ears lends itself to wandering and quiet contemplation. It reveals its secrets not to the thru-hiker, but to the wanderer. It demands respect for both the ancient and modern inhabitants of this land. Explore the alcove tucked away in that dead-end canyon. Squint at the sandstone panel, and you might be able to make out a series of painted-on handprints. Observe the granaries and ruins from a respectful distance. Follow Leave No Trace principles assiduously. Revel in a place that’s wild, yes, but with a long and storied human history. Bears Ears is a marvel, if only you know where to look.
Need to Know
Information
Bears Ears National Monument protects a large swath of southeastern Utah. The monument lies south and east of the existing Canyonlands National Park. Unlike some other National Monuments, it doesn’t protect a particular terrain feature or archaeological site, but a large area of wild landscapes and dispersed sites. The monument was created partly in response to over a century of looting and vandalism at irreplaceable cultural and historic sites. Please visit with respect and Leave No Trace.
Best Time to Go
Summers can be very hot in Bears Ears, even at higher elevations, while winters often bring snow and ice. Spring and fall are typically great times to visit.
Getting There
The town of Moab is served by an airport with regularly-scheduled flights, mostly puddle-jumpers to Denver or Salt Lake City. As of 2022, Moab, Monticello, and Blanding are also served by daily bus service. Though, most trailheads in Bears Ears are located well off the beaten path and only accessible by private vehicle.
The Edge of the Cedars State Park & Museum in Blanding makes an excellent introduction to the area and is a fascinating way to spend an afternoon. Those wishing to explore the famous Cedar Mesa should stop by the Kane Gulch Ranger Station (staffed seasonally) to pick up a required dayhiking or overnight permit and learn about best practices for visiting ruins and cultural sites.
Books and Maps
Bears Ears is a rather new monument that’s been embroiled by shifting borders and political controversy from its inception. As such, not many resources are yet available. One solid, if modest, guidebook is Exploring Utah’s Bears Ears and Cedar Mesa, available from Falcon Guides. The book focuses mainly on day trips, but includes a few backpacks as well, and plenty of inspiration for creating one’s own, longer adventures. The book also places great emphasis on visiting the Monument with respect. Trails Illustrated Map # 706 covers most of the monument. For a big picture view and for getting to and from the trailhead, see the Delorme Utah Atlas & Gazetteer.
This story by Kevin DeVries, photos by Justin Swanson.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 53 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

We were five days into a trek across Olympic National Park – at low elevation in mid-summer. Even though I was tired and about as cold as I think I've ever been, I was relishing the experience. I knew it was always the hard days that we remember most, and most of the days on this trip were hard. Really hard. And after this experience down at Cream Lake I knew I’d be able to tell a good story.
We also remember the beautiful days. Our ten-day journey – our own take on a traverse of the Bailey Range – along trails and backcountry from Lake Crescent in the north of Olympic National Park to the Quinault River Basin in the south fulfilled both the “hard” and “beautiful” criteria in spades.

When my son entered the world in December 2013, I knew 2014 was going to be a particularly difficult year to find time for adventure. I wanted a hike that was accessible, challenging both physically and mentally, and yet with an authentic “remoteness.” Ideally the route would travel through varying types of terrain, and it needed to be at low elevation as the timeframe was just too short to acclimatize to anything over 10,000 feet and still enjoy it.
A Bailey Range Traverse Begins
A traverse of the Bailey Range in Olympic National Park seemed to fit the bill perfectly. I had done day hikes in the old growth forests of the park and had hiked most of the 70 miles or so of wilderness coastline and I was in love. I knew I needed to delve much deeper into this magical place.
The Bailey Range flanks Mt. Olympus, the tallest and most glaciated peak in the park. A classic traverse of the range leaves from the Sol Duc Trailhead, along trails up past Heart Lake and onto the High Divide. We wanted to extend the trip a bit, so decided to follow the first sections of the traverse as noted in Olympic Mountains: A Climbing Guide, the premier climbing/hiking book about the park. We’d take the Boulder Creek Trailhead to Boulder Lake and head backcountry from there to Appleton Pass and from Appleton Pass to Cat Basin before getting on the main portion of the Bailey Traverse. If time permitted, we hoped to finish by hiking the Skyline Ridge Trail instead of following the North Fork of the Quinault River down from the Low Divide.
Unfortunately, the Boulder Creek Trailhead was closed due to a major dam removal project, so we started from Lake Crescent. After some crazy rental car logistics and a bus trip we started late in the afternoon of August 29th.

On this trip we took and used a bear can as well as technical mountaineering gear, which combined added an additional five pounds and some bulk. That, along with ten days of food, made for a heavy pack and we were happy to make the first day a very short one. We had crossed over Barnes Creek on a 150-foot log bridge made from one single tree, and we camped next to the creek, surrounded by huge conifers and large leafy plants.
Day 2 and Into the Olympics
Day two involved a long climb of over 4,000 vertical feet up to the Aurora Ridge Trail to the Happy Lake Trail and finally to Boulder Lake. On our way up, as we reached about 4,000 feet of elevation, a layer of fog suddenly appeared in trees, unmoving, ghostlike, and magical.
We hadn’t seen a soul the entire day and when we got to Boulder Lake, we camped on a peninsula surrounded on three sides by steep walls. Before hitting the sack, we heard another couple come in but never laid eyes on them.

A Bailey Range traverse campsite.
Day 3: Slow Going
Day three was probably the most physically exhausting of the trip – and the slowest. Counting our break time, it took us nine hours to make it just six miles! Why so long? Were there technical sections, crazy river crossings and lots of vertical? Nope. There were blueberry bushes. Oh the deadly blueberry bushes.
We climbed up and down, over rocks and ridges, past beautiful lakes and eventually to the Appleton Pass Trail just south of Appleton Pass. The entire off-trail route was covered in blueberry bushes, and as it was misting all day, it was slick. There was very little purchase for our feet, and it was all sloped downhill. The heavy packs didn’t help things. We were happy to set up camp when we reached Appleton Pass.
Day 4: The Bailey Range Traverse Proper
The next morning we were treated to an incredible sunrise on the surrounding peaks. Knowing that we didn’t want a repeat of yesterday, and that we didn’t want to be done before even starting the actual traverse, we chose to take a slightly longer but significantly easier route using trails. We followed the Appleton Pass Trail down to the Sol Duc River Trail where we climbed up to Heart Lake. Just above and beyond Heart Lake is the turnoff to the High Divide Trail, where the traverse of the Bailey Range really begins.

From my understanding, the Civilian Conservation Corps created this trail before World War II. It follows along a ridge before skirting the edge of Cat Basin and then contours around Cat Peak. This trail is an incredible sight to behold as it’s cut right into a steep mountainside with the Hoh River Basin dropping dramatically to the south. Originally, the High Divide Trail was supposed to cross much of the Bailey Range and meet up with the trail at Dodger Point; however the project was abandoned at the beginning of WWII. Basically, the trail just ends at a drop-off and we had to climb up a very steep eroding way-trail for a few hundred feet to reach the shoulder of Cat Peak.
According to many hikers, the next section was the crux. We had to cross the Catwalk, a technical arête which crosses between Cat Peak and Mt. Carrie. Many people camp at Boston Charlie’s, which is a camp located on the far (east) side of the Catwalk. But visibility was dropping, rain was coming in and the wind was blowing hard. We decided to save the Catwalk for the next morning and set up camp on the shoulder of Cat Peak just above the Catwalk. We knew water would be hard to come by so we had carried numerous liters up from Heart Lake. It turned out to be an interesting night. First, just as Jevan and I were discussing the fact that we probably wouldn’t see anybody else now that we were hitting the more remote portion of the trip, out popped two hikers who were coming from the Catwalk. We came to find out that it was a father and son team, and after spending a long time trying to cross the Catwalk in deteriorating conditions, they decided to turn around and ended up camping next to us.
A Fifth Day in the Bailey Range
The beginning of day five started out sunny and beautiful. From our ridge we were afforded our first incredible views of Mt. Olympus across the Hoh River Valley to our south. Low clouds filled the valley and the gigantic Blue Glacier radiated the early morning sun. Thinking we finally had a perfect day, we took our time getting ready. That was probably not the wisest decision, as the clouds and wind started rolling in by 9am and the day turned out to be the roughest and most emotionally and psychologically draining of the trip.

The Catwalk began with a tricky traverse along the side of a ridge. The narrow trail fell away below. Once onto the arête, we had to make our way across some short but technical sections. Doing all this with a large pack made the going much tougher. The section was short but exhilarating and in less than 45 minutes from camp we were at Boston Charlie’s, which did indeed have water.
Even though the Bailey Range traverse is technically a route, not a trail, enough people do it that there is an informal path for some of the way. We followed it as it contoured along the side of Mt. Carrie. The wind was picking up and by 11am we had 100-foot visibility, sideways rain with a constant 30mph wind and no shelter to speak of as the route was almost entirely above timberline. The trail became increasingly difficult as it crossed steep, wet, unconsolidated gullies. The temperature was probably in the upper 30’s but the wind-chill and rain made it feel much, much colder.
Most people head down to Cream Lake. With limited visibility we continued contouring until the path petered out at a gully that was too steep to cross. Instead, we half walked, half butt-slid down a steep rocky streambed to a meadow and eventually to Cream Lake. During an extremely brief window when the rain stopped, we set up our tent on a gravel bar next to the lake.

Typical for the Pacific Northwest, our traverse of the Bailey Range featured its share of moisture that turned to ice with overnight temperatures.
Day 6
Luckily for us we woke to bright blue skies with a rapidly warming day. Our wet gear was coated with ice, and we put everything we owned out on the “beach” to dry. By noon we were finally feeling like ourselves again. We left Cream Lake around 1pm, thankful for a beautiful day and glad the last section was over.
We followed an inlet stream up the valley and came within one hundred feet of a big bear that was slowly ambling by. He didn’t seem to care much about us and walked on past. Soon after, we were stymied by a steep wall with no real idea of where to go. After following the wrong stream for a while, we were able to get back on route and followed a ridge up to Ferry Basin where we set up camp above treeline next to a beautiful alpine lake. The lake was surrounded by incredible wildflowers, and as sunset approached, the clouds flowed up the valley toward us. Just when we thought we were going to be stuck in the middle of a cloud for the night, the fog was sucked back down the valley as it took on the bright pink hue of dusk. It was as if the air itself was glowing while the mountains took a final breath for the evening.
Day 7: The Route Continues
We woke the next morning in the cold rocky moonscape and continued on our route. As the day wore on Mt. Olympus seemed so close we could touch it and eventually we set up camp on the edge of the Queets Basin at what was without a doubt our most beautiful (and windiest) campsite of the trip. We climbed a small peak just to our east and took in a stunning sunset. We could see the ocean down the Queets River Basin and beautiful alpenglow shone off the snow-covered patches on nearby peaks. Our first day without having seen another person (Jevan had spotted a hiker on a nearby peak a day earlier) we climbed into our sleeping bags satisfied that this day exceeded our expectations for beauty and adventure.

High alpine terrain on our Bailey Range traverse.
Day 8
Day eight began sunny as we climbed down to Dodwell-Rixon Pass and said goodbye to the Bailey Range and headed down the Elwha Snow Finger. In a typical normal or high snow year, or in early season, hikers can make quick progress as they scamper down on top of the thick snowpack that fills the valley even in late summer. After a dry spring and hot summer, the Snow Finger had withered away. We traversed the snowfield for a few hundred feet and then alternated going around on the steep banks, rock-hopping and moving quickly past a number of huge snow bridges.
A choke point in the river led to a steep scramble out of the valley and down to a meadow. We then bushwhacked through dense alders, waded across the river and finally reached the Elwha River Trail. We made quick progress down to Chicago Camp and up to the Low Divide.
Hiking to the Finish Line
We decided to finish by hiking the Skyline Ridge Trail. This was a last-second decision and we didn’t know anything about the trail. Luckily (or so we thought) we ran into a guy who had just come along that trail, gave us a bunch of beta and told us there was no water up to the high point, but plenty after that.
Unfortunately for us, Washington was experiencing the hottest days of the summer. We stopped for lunch near a small tarn not far from Lake Beauty. By the end of lunch, it must have been over 100 degrees and after struggling for another hour up exposed (to the sun) rock, we decided to take a mid-afternoon siesta. Starting out again around 5 o’clock, we were able to enjoy the strange rocky moonscape below Kimta Peak. We arrived at Kimta Peak just as the sun was setting, and we were treated to a magnificently multi-hued sky as we watched the glowing orb set over the Pacific Ocean.

We had already hiked about fifteen miles and were happy to do the final five mostly downhill to the Three Prune Campsite. Strangely, there had been plenty of water on the way up and we had carried too much. Having drunk most of it, however, we were glad to know there were plenty of water sources on the way down. For the first half mile along the ridge we had stunning, unobscured views to the west.
Once the ambient light had fled and we were cruising through forest, we both came to the realization that our helpful hiker had led us astray. He had mixed up his directions and there was no water to speak of. Very thirsty and tired, we raced down the trail. By the time we arrived at camp, we were so tired that all we could do was drink up and pass out. The next day was a leisurely stroll through beautiful old growth forests, past the Three Lakes Campsite and out to the car with lighter packs and even lighter hearts.
Need to Know
Information
Bear cans are required, but you can rent them very cheaply from the Olympic National Park ranger station (and they've got the lightweight Bearikades to use!). The higher portions of the route involve snowfield and possible glacier travel. You'll also need to get a backcountry permit and give your itinerary to the rangers before heading out.
Getting There
There are numerous places to start, but if you're going from the north, you can base your operations out of Port Angeles. There are supermarkets and outdoor gear stores as well as a ranger station. If you leave from Lake Crescent as we did, you can catch a public bus to the trailhead. The closest major airport is in Seattle and you'll probably want to take the ferry over to the Olympic Peninsula. There is no public transportation to the southern trailhead at either the North Fork Quinault River Trail or the Irely Lakes Trail just down the road so you'll need to drop a car or arrange for a pickup.
Best Time to Go
It depends on the year, but most hiking in the high alpine sections of the park have a short window from July through early September if you don't want to be dealing with much snow.
Maps and Books
I used Caltopo.com to print my own maps on waterproof paper. I also carried the National Geographic Trails Illustrated map of Olympic National Park and I used a phone app on my smartphone, which allows you to download detailed topo maps prior to your trip and utilize the GPS functionality of your phone without cell service. For books see Olympic Mountains: A Climbing Guide. For a more general guidebook on the park, see Hiking Olympic National Park.
Editor's Note: This article Eli Burakian originally appeared in an online magazine form in TrailGroove Magazine and has been republished here.