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Rugged and Remote: Backpacking the Ferris Mountains WSA

For years and usually while driving to go hike or visit some other place, a small mountain range in southern Wyoming had always caught my eye from a remote stretch of highway in south-central Wyoming – a range that sharply rises up above the dry sagebrush plains in a place nearly without a name. The consistently jaw-dropping views of these obscure peaks from north of the range and a unique row of limestone fins on the south side of the range led to further research, and I eventually learned that

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Trips

Springtime Solitude - A Wyoming Red Desert Overnight

The Red Desert of Wyoming holds a unique appeal no matter your approach – it’s a country just as suitable for backpacking as it is for exploring and camping beside your vehicle off a rough and long forgotten dirt road. Either way, you’re likely to be in the middle of the nowhere. Adding to its allure, to begin the year the desert can only be comfortably explored for a short time each spring after the roads have sufficiently dried from melting snow to make passage by vehicle (just to g

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Trips

Gossamer Gear Gorilla Backpack: A 3,000 Mile Review

Gossamer Gear has been refining their ultralight oriented backpacks since 1998, including multiple iterations of the Gorilla – their medium volume framed pack. The Gorilla was redesigned in early 2015 using gray Robic fabric instead of the white Dyneema Grid fabric as seen on older packs. The shoulder straps are now unisex, more contoured, thicker, and slightly narrower than the previous version. The hip belt was also redesigned to have more padding with a mesh inner face to wick sweat. Trekking

HikerBox

HikerBox in Gear

7 Ways to Make Freeze Dried Backpacking Meals Better

Even the best freeze dried backpacking meals that are out there tend to have some common drawbacks. The most common issue with ready to eat commercial meals is their lack of calories – with meals commonly containing calorie counts in the 400-500 range (or sometimes, even worse at 200-300 calories). Typically these meals will claim to feed 2 – when in fact they're pretty light on calories even for one person after a long hiking day, leaving us to dig through our food bag for anything we can find

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Technique

Backpacking in the Needles District, Canyonlands National Park

On this trip, I was able to return to Canyonlands National Park, but this time stayed on the opposite side of the river from the Maze to join up with Ted Ehrlich and Christy who drove in from Colorado to backpack through Salt Creek Canyon and the Needles. The Needles offer a near endless array of unique rock formations to find and routes to explore. Into the Needles Our respective drives late on a Thursday night resulted in a noon-ish start from the Cathedral Butte trailhead

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Trips

Backpacking in the Maze, Canyonlands National Park

A few years ago and to follow up on a previous Utah hiking trip, Ted Ehrlich and I spent a few days backpacking in the Maze District of Canyonlands National Park. The Maze is frequently referred to as one of the most remote spots in the lower 48, and though I’m not sure how exactly it ranks on that scale, it did require some significant amounts of off-highway driving to reach. The Maze is located in southeastern Utah, west of the confluence of the Colorado and Green Rivers and bordere

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Trips

Trail Tested by Justin Lichter

Over a decade ago now, Justin Lichter (also known by his trail name Trauma) released a collection of insights, tips, and stories detailed across more than 200 pages in his book Trail Tested. If you haven’t heard of Justin yet, he’s quite famous in the long distance backpacking and hiking community – having hiked over 35,000 miles in his career. Not only has he completed the Triple Crown of the Appalachian, Pacific Crest, and Continental Divide Trails – he’s done it twice. Throughout his tra

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Reading

Evernew Ultralight Titanium Review: 1.3 and .9 Liter Pots

While the potential exists to makes one's backcountry cooking setup nearly as complex as the average home kitchen, albeit hopefully a bit more miniaturized and lighter, in most cases the average lightweight backpacker only needs to boil water for freeze-dried dinners, freezer bag style cooking, to heat and hydrate a basic meal within the pot, or to heat water for things like coffee and tea. For these backpackers – like myself – the Evernew Ultralight Titanium Series pots have been a fairly popul

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Hiking Buckskin Gulch: A Trip Report and Guide

During an April trip several years ago, Ted Ehrlich and I spent a few days hiking and camping in southern Utah – one highlight of that trip had to be our hike through Buckskin Gulch, one of the longest and deepest slot canyons in the world. With a snowy drive through Wyoming and then a whiteout in Colorado, the drive wasn’t a fast one and I met Ted at a deserted trailhead near Grand Junction around 10pm. From here we’d carpool into Utah. We drove west in the night, eventually moving past the sno

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Trips

Backpacker's Pantry Rocky Mountain Scramble Review

While most breakfasts on the trail in my case are whatever gets me hiking the fastest – typically an energy bar or two and coffee – from time to time a more elaborate breakfast is called for. And of course, there’s always breakfast for dinner, which for me is the most likely time I’ll make such a breakfast meal. For this purpose I already have a couple go-to freeze dried backpacking breakfast meals including the Breakfast Skillet from Mountain House and their Spicy Southwest Style Skillet. Varie

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Food

Book Review: I Hike by Lawton Grinter

A couple years ago I came across The Walkumentary, a film produced by Lawton Grinter (trail name Disco) detailing the southbound CDT thru-hike that he completed in 2006 along with his partner P.O.D. and a loose group of other hikers. The film really shows the viewer not only what it’s like to hike and to do so every day, but also what it’s like to do so along the CDT, where a thru-hike frequently involves longer, more remote stretches between resupply stops and staying “found” can at

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Reading

Mountain Laurel Designs eVent Superlight Gaiters Review

No matter your outdoor recreation activity of choice, for most any type of winter activity in deeper snow some type of gaiter is desired to keep snow from entering through the top of your footwear and causing an uncomfortably chilly situation, or even eventually worse, predicament for your feet. Although of a shorter design I’ve been utilizing the Mountain Laurel Designs (MLD) Superlight gaiter for the past several years as my gaiter of choice anytime snow is present in shoulder seasons, and thr

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Overnight Ski to Section House at Boreas Pass, Colorado

They say fire warms the soul, better yet when that fire is in a potbelly stove set inside a historic cabin atop the spine of the continent burning wood you didn’t have to chop! Rachel and I decided to celebrate my 31st birthday and our recent move to Colorado by booking an overnight stay at one of the over 30 backcountry huts for rent in Colorado through the 10th Mountain Hut Association and the above scenario is exactly what we found. Based on some advice from fellow TrailGroove writer @PaulMag

HikerBox

HikerBox in Trips

Good To-Go Chicken Pho Review

Many years ago, I was stuck at a cubicle all day under fluorescent lights in the corporate world. In such an environment one has to find small ways to make their days positive – getting your favorite morning coffee, a lunchtime stroll, or looking forward to that dedicated Friday lunch spot. One such eatery was a local restaurant that specialized in one thing: Vietnamese pho. Perfect on bitter winter days, the dish for me is a satisfying blend of a flavorful soup broth and noodles but with a heav

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Food

Biking the Burr Trail, Utah

The last two winters I’ve spent living in the American southwest, and before I left I planned to take a long bike ride. I wasn’t quite sure where I wanted to go, but I was leaning towards somewhere way out in the desert. I changed my mind many times in the months before the trip, but eventually decided to leave sunny California, and drive further inland, to Utah. I had driven this highway once before, a scenic route through the southern part of Utah. Highway 12, “The All American Road

michaelswanbeck

michaelswanbeck in Trips

Alite Designs Monarch Chair Review

A chair is an item that often doesn’t make its way onto many lightweight gear lists, and perhaps rightfully so if your goal is to hike until sunset, eat dinner, go to sleep, and repeat the process day after day. In those situations, a rock, log, or the ground without a doubt is a free and weightless solution. However, if you’re taking things easier a chair can start to make a lot of sense in the backcountry and sometimes those little perks can make all the difference. And when it only

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Firepot Chili con Carne with Rice Review

While many of us have settled on a routine of meals and old standby dinners in the backcountry – whether that’s commercial freeze dried meals or our own recipes on the trail, every once in a while it’s nice to mix it up. Recently when re-stocking the freeze dried meal inventory for some upcoming trips I noticed a brand I hadn’t tried before – and I decided to test out the new Chili con Carne with Rice meal made by Firepot in the United Kingdom. Manufactured in the United Kingdom, the

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Food

Backpacking in the Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness, Montana

Hiking from one beautiful place to another on pleasant and well-maintained trails is a great way to spend five days. Doing so with a good friend and cooperative weather makes a great experience even better. Throw in a few synchronous strokes of good fortune and you end up with an incredibly rewarding and memorable adventure. Neither John nor I had been on a four-night trip since March 2011 when he, myself, and my girlfriend at the time did a trek through the Chiricahua Mountains in so

Mark Wetherington

Mark Wetherington in Trips

Herbal Armor Natural Insect Repellent Review

Herbal Armor by All Terrain is a natural insect and mosquito repellent that has been my go to insect repellent choice for the last several years. Over time as I’ve moved from DEET to picaridin to various natural repellents, I’ve had a chance to try many products on the market – and have had the unfortunate experience of being quite disappointed in the efficacy of many natural solutions. Many smell nice, but might as well have been left at home. Returning from backpacking trips with more than a b

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Mountain House Chicken Teriyaki Meal Review

While some meals may come and go from the backpacking freeze-dried meal repertoire, other meals stand the test of time and seem to find their way into your food bag many times over the years. Mountain House Chicken Teriyaki is one such meal that I’ve taken along on recent trips to trips pretty far back in the memory bank, and in Mountain House packaging from the latest all the way back to the old yellow and blue package. While perhaps not quite as exciting as newer meals to hit the market, somet

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Food

Seeking Solitude: Backpacking in the Bitterroot Mountains

With backpacks loaded and my friend Drew in the passenger seat, both of us eager to head to subalpine lakes with hungry trout, I turned the keys in the ignition and proceeded to break one of my cardinal rules of backpacking: don’t start in a trip in the middle of a holiday weekend. As advantageous as having an extra day off work to extend a backpacking trip is, if you’re spending that time on a crowded trail only to end up at an area where all the best campsites are taken the “victory” is at bes

Mark Wetherington

Mark Wetherington in Trips

ULA Equipment Spark Kid's Backpack Review

Backpacking with kids is all about progression – from the first overnighter where you might be carrying all the family gear as well as the kid, to those first short trips later just a short distance from the trailhead and as far as young legs – or young attention spans can make it. However, once you pass these stages and your kid can start to carry more than just a small day pack with just a couple very lightweight items and your trips begin to venture farther into the backcountry, a real pack i

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Mountain House Yellow Curry with Chicken & Rice Review

One thing I’ve been focusing on recently for my backcountry meals is adding variety. When it comes to prepackaged backpacking meals this variety is often found in what is essentially the same meal but just in different flavors – for example flavor and cultural variations on rice or pasta based meals. Finding something that is truly different however can be difficult to find unless you’re making your own dinners from scratch. For an off the shelf pre-made meal however, the Mountain House Yellow C

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Food

  • Blog Entries

    • Aaron Zagrodnick
      By Aaron Zagrodnick in TrailGroove Blog 0
      Lumens are a unit of measurement used to determine the total amount of visible light emitted from a source. In the backpacking and hiking world, you can use the lumen value to compare the amount of lighting you’ll get from various nighttime illumination sources such as a headlamp.
      Lumen Considerations / How Many Lumens
      Higher lumen values typically come at the cost of shorter runtimes and decreased battery life. Brighter lights are also generally heavier and more expensive. For general nighttime trail navigation, I’ve found that at least 30-50 or more lumens are needed to follow good trails with relative ease, with around 50-100 being preferred for more vague and / or unfamiliar trails.

      However, lights that have the flexibility to switch between several modes of brightness can be especially helpful while backpacking. While in camp very low levels of lighting of just a single lumen or less can be great for reading or finding a tent zipper without disturbing fellow campers. However, this all comes down to personal preference.
      Additionally, very low levels of light will allow you keep your own night vision somewhat intact. On the other hand, there will be times where you may need to briefly light up an area to make it through a particularly difficult section of trail or to check out an unfamiliar noise in the night. For these circumstances a higher level of lighting in the 200+ lumen range can be especially welcome.
      Beam Pattern
      Don’t forget to consider the beam pattern. A light with a flood beam is great for close up work, but won’t project very far into the distance. A spot beam projects far, but only illuminates a small area. Consider a light that allows you to switch between flood and spot using a diffuser or a light that compromises and has a flood beam with a center hotspot – my choice for the best of both worlds.
      More Lumen Related & Headlamp Information
      See our full article on How to Choose the Best Backpacking & Hiking Headlamp for more on headlamp selection. For a list of backpacking and hiking-ready headlamps on the market, see this page at REI Co-op.
      Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 6 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.
    • Aaron Zagrodnick
      By Aaron Zagrodnick in TrailGroove Blog 0
      Years ago, Governor Tom McCall of Oregon had a strange idea: he wanted to make all the beaches of Oregon open to the public, as he felt that the beaches belong to the people of Oregon. Now 382 miles of state trail exists from California to Washington along the beaches of Oregon, over headlands, through state parks and Federal land, and as rights-of-way over private land – some of the most beautiful country the state has to offer.

      Most of the trail is along the beach or along maintained trails over headlands, but about 10% of the trail follows paved and dirt roads or runs along the shoulder of Highway 101.
      Hiking the Oregon Coast Trail
      When I walked this trail, I began my journey at Oregon’s southern border with California and walked north. I knew many of the major storm systems which reach the coast arrive from the SW and I’d rather have my back to the wind. I walked this trail in bits and pieces – not as a thru-hike because I live so close to the trail; but many people do walk the path in one shot. I carried a small backpack for gear and some food for the trip, but since you walk through coastal towns along the way you don’t need to walk far for resupply. Water is not a problem here either. Between coastal settlements and streams dropping from the Coast Range, water is readily available.

      When walking this trail, I used different foot gear; sometimes barefoot along the beach, sometimes with sandals, and sometimes with hiking shoes as I ambled along the coastline and over headlands. Whatever footwear you choose, sand will be a problem and so will wetness. I rarely get blisters when I hike, but along this trail they seem unavoidable. For the longer stretches of the walk I also developed a hip problem I didn’t foresee. My guess is that by hiking on a slanted beach for over a week one foot was always about 3-6 inches below the other, which caused increased pain along the hip joint, muscles, and tendons – nothing like what I’ve experienced along any trail before. At times I’d traverse the beach backwards to relieve myself of pain.
      One thing to be aware of while hiking the Oregon Coast Trail are the tides. I carry the app Tide Graph on my phone, but you can pick up tide booklets for the region in any coastal town to help you be aware of the tides. At low tide you can explore the many tide pools the Oregon coast has to offer, and at high tide you’ll be left high and dry above the shore.

      An additional consideration are the birds. Some beaches may be closed due to the snowy plover nesting season, so you’ll want to check beforehand. Additionally on my hike I kept an eye out for sneaker waves and logs (rolled by waves), both of which I knew were something to be aware of on the Oregon Coast Trail.
      Some of the more beautiful sections of trail are along many of Oregon State Parks (camping and yurt rental is available). The southern section along Samuel H. Boardman State Park is some of the best stretch of coastal walking I’ve experienced anywhere. This is a rugged land of sea arches, sea stacks, and hidden coves. The trail through Boardman is well maintained and well-marked with the Oregon Coast Trail posts and symbols. Heading north the trail goes along one of the hidden gems of the Oregon coast. Here Highway 101 cuts inland, but the trail hugs the coastline in seclusion making its way north along the sandstone cliffs north of Blacklock Point.

      Hiking out from the pygmy forest offers dramatic views along the rim. Cape Perpetua is another wonderful state park along the sea. Once you pass the area of the Spouting Horn and Thor’s Well, you’re brought inland into some beautiful old-growth forest of Sitka spruce. Further north Cape Arago State Park awaits. The trail makes a winding spur out-and-back, but the hike is worth all the views the park offers.
      When you’re not walking over headlands or along cliffs you’re walking the beaches of Oregon. Some of my favorite beaches along the way are Bandon Beach with its dramatic sea stacks, and further to the north Cannon Beach with its Haystack Rock standing sentinel. Further north as you’re getting close to the end of the trail you’ll walk past the shipwreck of the Peter Iredale, with its skeletal remains half-submerged into the sands of Clatsop Spit in Fort Stevens State Park.
      Traversing the coast, you’ll also pass by many of Oregon’s lighthouses. Cape Blanco which stands at Oregon’s most westerly point and the Coquille River Lighthouse are two of my favorites. The towns and bays along the way can vary from quaint to touristy, but all are great places to get a warm shower, have a hot meal, and resupply before walking onward.

      You can hike the trail any month of the year. The winter months can be rainy and muddy, but I do know of one person who thru-hiked the trail in the month of January and never got rained on once – a rare event. The best month with the fairest weather along the Oregon coast is usually September. After Labor Day weekend prices along the coast drop in conjunction with the best weather Oregon has to offer, making September my favorite month to visit the shore.
      Camping is readily available as you hike the trail. While I backpacked the trail, I slept in State Park campgrounds, backcountry sites, along the beach, and in motels during severe weather. Pack a light tent or bivy sack, but make sure your tent can stand up in high winds.
      Enjoy the hike, I found it to be a fairly easy trail for such a long distance, and I don’t know of many long-distance trails that offer you views of migrating whales while you travel.
      Additional Info & Resources
      Getting There
      If you’re starting in the north or south, access is easy by automobile and a quick walk to the beach. If you’re flying into Portland you can get to Astoria, Oregon in the north and a cab can deliver you to the start of the trail. If you begin in the south, you’ll need to get to Brookings, Oregon or Crescent City, California, and again a cab could deliver you to the start of the trail. Also, Highway 101 parallels much of the Oregon shoreline, so access along the way is readily available.
      Books and Maps
      For a guidebook, see Hiking the Oregon Coast Trail: 400 Miles from the Columbia River to California as well as 100 Hikes: Oregon Coast. In regard to maps, Green Trails offers their Oregon Coast North, the Oregon Coast Central, and Oregon Coast South maps.
      All images in this article © David M. Cobb Photography.
      Editor's Note: This article by contributor David Cobb originally appeared in Issue 23 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content. See more of David’s photography at dmcobbphoto.com.
    • David Cobb
      By David Cobb in TrailGroove Blog 0
      With names like Gnome Tarn, Dragontail Peaks, and Aasgard Pass, you’d think I’d stumbled into a land of Norse Sagas. But instead I walked through a land of water and granite surrounded by the fall color of subalpine larch. The Enchantments are a small section of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in northern Washington’s Cascade Range. This is a land of high valleys and beautiful aqua-marine lakes, all lying under the ever-present view of Prusik Peak.

      While an Enchantments hike can offer rewarding views, getting there in the first place is the first challenge to knock off the list.
      Hiking & Backpacking the Enchantments
      There really is no easy way into the Enchantments. The route up Aasgard Pass is shorter, but the 2,220 foot elevation gain in under a mile is difficult (especially in bad weather). So I’d recommend the longer route from the east instead. To get there, you’ll arrive by driving west from the town of Leavenworth, Washington up Icicle Creek Road to the trailhead parking area. Here you’ll need a valid Northwest Forest Pass to park during your stay. You will also need an overnight backcountry permit from the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest from June 15-October 15. This is a popular place among backpackers so they created an overnight permit lottery system for the majority of the distributed permits, but a few permits are also given out on a daily first-come, first-serve basis. Only the lucky ones get to proceed to the next leg of the journey.

      The trail begins as an endless series of switchbacks climbing out of the valley before heading up canyon a while, then it resumes with the switchbacks. Once you’ve gained a bit of elevation, the trail becomes slightly straighter and heads towards the forested Snow Lakes area. You may opt to camp here for the night and ready yourself for the climb ahead; we chose to hike on to spend more time photographing the Enchantments. The last segment is an approximate 1,400 foot climber’s route in 1.5 miles to the first lake, and there is no water along the way so I filled up before starting. Once you reach Lake Viviane the fun has just begun, because a series of rock cairns and routes will take you to even higher remote lakes, tarns, and vistas. If you have more than one car, a nice trip can be put together by traveling up the Snow Lakes Trail and then up and over Aasgard Pass to your alternate vehicle.

      The real draw for me was to photograph the subalpine larch stands scattered throughout this stark landscape. The larch is the only conifer to change color and drop its needles in the fall. The beauty of these trees against a backdrop of emerald waters and granite mounds is a photographer’s dream, and mine was coming true.
      There is a bit of wildlife in the area, but the most common large mammal siting is the mountain goat. In the alpine country the forest service instructs everyone to urinate on rocks, supposedly to avoid the mountain goats from tearing up the backcountry on their ever-vigilant search for salt. The mountain goats were constantly licking the rocks around our camp, but left the pit toilets alone. They were known to also get a bit aggressive as one camper found out when chased up a large boulder.

      Of course day hikes on side routes can be made to explore the country further. A walk up Little Annapurna Peak will give you views all the way to Mount Rainier to the south and Canadian views to the north. A walk over the Prusik Pass route will bring you to even more lakes, but before you go up and over make sure to stop at the reflective Gnome Tarn. If you’re a mountain climber then you’re in the right place to bag a number of peaks.
      If you’re here for the fall color, chances are you’re also here during fire season and the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest always seems to burn during the late summer and early fall months. Smoke can be a problem at times for the lower elevations, but as you ascend you’ll probably rise above the valley smog and into the fresh air of the high country. Any way you slice it the Enchantments are a backpacker’s paradise, so dust off your gear and enjoy the high country of northern Washington’s North Cascade Range.
      Need to Know
      Information
      Contact the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest 509-548-2550.
      Getting There
      For an eastern approach drive highway 2 west from the town of Leavenworth, turn left on road 76 (Icicle Creek road) to the Snow Lakes Trailhead parking area. To approach from the west drive highway 2 west from the town of Leavenworth. Turn left on 76 (Icicle Creek road) and pass the Snow Lakes Trailhead parking area. In a few miles you’ll turn left on forest road 7601 and proceed to the Stuart Lake trailhead.
      Maps and Books
      I used the National Geographic Trails Illustrated Alpine Lakes Wilderness Map. Green Trails also offers their The Enchantments Map. In regards to books, the Backpacking Washington guidebook by Craig Romano covers hiking in the Enchantments. See also Alpine Lakes Wilderness: The Complete Hiking Guide.
      All images in this article © David M. Cobb Photography.
      Editor's Note: This article by contributor David Cobb originally appeared in Issue 6 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content. See more of David’s photography at dmcobbphoto.com.
    • David Cobb
      By David Cobb in TrailGroove Blog 0
      The Anaconda Pintler Wilderness is an overlooked gem in the state of Montana. It doesn’t have the notoriety of a Glacier National Park, or the iconic awe of “The Bob” (as in the Bob Marshall Wilderness), but it has the solitude and grandeur of some of the best wilderness the west has to offer. Lying in the vicinity of Butte, Montana, but closer to the copper-smelting town of Anaconda, this wilderness is part of the spine of the Rocky Mountains and also encompasses a 45-mile stretch of the Continental Divide Trail. Elevations vary greatly from a low of 5,100 feet, to a high at West Goat Peak near 10,800 feet.

      Approaching a scenic backcountry lake on an Anaconda Pintler backpacking trip.
      Hiking in the Anaconda Pintler Wilderness
      On this, my third trip to the (158,656 acre) Anaconda Pintler Wilderness, I was there to photograph the landscape (on my first visit I explored the northern boundary, and on my second I walked the entire span from north to south while through-hiking the Continental Divide Trail). This time I had returned to explore the central segment and photograph the area’s most spectacular section.
      If you’re interested in a long, continuous backpacking trip, I’d suggest you begin at the northeast corner of the wilderness by Storm Lake and hike up to the pass to follow the CDT (Continental Divide Trail) to the southwest corner of the wilderness. This area will give you a roller coaster ride of a trail, as it constantly descends into valleys and ascends to rocky passes seemingly every mile. You’ll be changing in elevation between 7,500 and 9,000 feet with regularity, so make sure your hiking legs are in shape.

      The expansive and exposed Goat Flat offers little protection from weather – there is nowhere to shelter for a couple of miles. For shorter loops while getting the most “bang for the buck” time-wise, I headed for the central section and started just south of the village of Moose Lake. This heads into to the high country in a hurry, and shorter and longer loops can be hiked from here. Trail loops can also be made with a southern approach, but you’ll spend much more time in forested valleys than in the high country. Free wilderness permits are required for hiking into the backcountry and can be found at trailhead kiosks.
      Like many areas of the west, the Anaconda Pintler Wilderness has been ravaged by the Pine Bark Beetle and by fire. Given that the area has experienced these environmental problems, it’s surprising how well the trails are maintained. Noticing hatchet marks on the fallen bucked trees; my guess is that backcountry equestrians have given a hand with the trail maintenance.

      Mosquitos can be fierce in July and will keep you in your tent most of the time, so August may be a better month with fewer bugs. This area can also look beautiful with a dusting of snow, so late September and early October will be cold and snowy and offer the changing colors of the larch – in addition to being mosquito free. On my most recent trip I wanted to explore the central part of the wilderness. Starting at a trailhead in the northern section of wilderness, I hiked to the center passing the lovely Johnson Lake and over the divide at 9,250 foot Rainbow Pass to Rainbow Lake which is nestled 800 feet below the pass. My next journey began with a southern approach along Fishtrap Creek so I could camp and photograph Warren Lake and dramatic 10,463 foot Warren Peak.

      Jim Wolf, who almost single-handedly helped push through the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail, named this area of the Anaconda Pintler Wilderness the “Crown Jewel” of the National Scenic Trail. Having through-hiked it from Canada to Mexico, I must concur. The two other times I visited this beautiful setting I arrived late and left early–barely enough time to appreciate its beauty. This time, I spent two days just hanging out and photographing. A few through-hikers ambled by while I camped, and I enjoyed the stories and updates from the trail.

      The southwest corner of this wilderness is lower and has fewer loop possibilities. The divide trail pops above 8,500 feet a few times and leaves the woods now and again. The hiking is easier as the trail mainly follows the spine of the divide and stays close to 8,000 feet. Here side trails divert to an occasional lake, and the wilderness boundary keeps a myriad of logging roads at bay. As you head further south you finally leave the wilderness boundary and the trail heads south on its way to Mexico.
      Need to Know
      Information
      The area is managed by the Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest. Phone: (406)-683-3900.
      Getting There
      To the Storm Lake Trailhead take highway 1 west from the town of Anaconda, Montana and exit off of Forest Road 675. You may need 4WD for the last mile or two. For a western approach to the central high peaks of the wilderness past Moses Lake, again take highway 1 west from the town of Anaconda, Montana to Highway 38 south, to Forest Road 5106 east to Trailhead 29 parking area. For an eastern approach to the central high peaks of the wilderness, take Highway 15 near Butte, Montana south to Highway 43 west. Exit west on Forest Road 1203 near Fishtrap to Forest Road 1279 north and the trailhead parking area for trail 128 up Fishtrap Creek.
      Maps and Books
      Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness Forest Service map, and Cairn Cartographics offers their Anaconda Pintler Wilderness map. For guidebooks see Hiking the Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness.
      All images in this article © David M. Cobb Photography.
      Editor's Note: This article by contributor David Cobb originally appeared in Issue 5 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content. See more of David’s photography at dmcobbphoto.com.
    • David Cobb
      By David Cobb in TrailGroove Blog 0
      The Goat Rocks wilderness is located in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest of Washington, between the Mount Adams wilderness and Mount Rainier National Park. The remnant of an old volcano which stood at over 12,000 feet is now an area of alpine scenery with many peaks over 8,000 feet. The wilderness contains 105,000 acres and I’ve hiked through this area a few times before, but recently I made a trip into the backcountry to camp and walk a bit of a wilderness trail loop.

      The protection for this region has been in place for a long time since February 13, 1931, when it was first established at the Goat Rocks Primitive Area. The acreage protection grew and Goat Rocks was listed early as wilderness with the passage of the Wilderness Act in 1968.
      A Backpacking Loop in the Goat Rocks Wilderness
      The Goat Rocks offers many beautiful trails and I decided on a loop, beginning the trip at trail number 96 near Chambers Lake. The path from the parking area passes through a mossy forest and low brush, but soon connects with the Pacific Crest Trail that quickly launches into the high country offering views of some stunning vistas. On the way to the alpine country I passed many of the best wildflower areas too, such as Snowgrass Flats. This area offers meadows thick with lupine, beargrass, and Indian paintbrush. But the wildflowers were stunted due to a cool summer, so I’ll be back to view them again in a warmer year. For witnessing the peak of the wildflower bloom, a trip here in early to mid-August is the best time to travel.

      Like most mountain areas, mosquitoes can be a problem in late July to mid-August. The higher areas are less bothersome due to cooler temperatures and a perpetual breeze. By late August the temperatures are cool enough to have killed off most of the insects, and in September there are often clear skies with an occasional frost or dusting of snow. Visiting earlier than mid-July will be difficult due to snowpack, so bring the proper equipment. Wilderness permits can be picked up at the parking lot kiosk, and are free for those taking day hikes or overnight backpacking trips. A Northwest Forest Service Pass is needed to park your car in many trailhead parking areas.
      The high country offers a number of knife ridges just off and along the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Camping near Packwood glacier allows views of the surrounding Cascade volcanoes, like Mount Adams, Mount Saint Helen’s and Mount Rainier, with distant views of Glacier Peak and the North Cascades. A backcountry shelter once stood near the crossing of Packwood Glacier, but time and the elements have collapsed the beams years ago, and now not much remains except for a bundle of wood. Even without the shelter, camping can still be found here amongst the stunted pine. Nearby creeklets flow from the surrounding snowfields, so there is plenty of water. In a good year, blooms of beargrass stretch from here seemingly to Mount Adams miles away.

      Years ago I walked through this high country during a snowstorm and passed by two shaved and hypothermic llamas wrapped in shiny space blankets. They looked like a couple of extra-terrestrials trying to make first contact. The llamas survived the night and looked no worse-for-wear in the morning. From the location near Packwood Glacier a spur trail climbs to the top of 7,930 foot Old Snowy that supplies views over many of the surrounding peaks and glaciers in this incredible wilderness. A walk along the PCT from here follows a ridge on clear trail with perpetual snow fields dropping off on either side. The crest trail will drop you down to White Pass, which is a great place to start an adventure into the Goat Rocks, and also a resupply point if you’re planning a longer hike on the PCT.
      Continuing on my loop, I stopped off at Goat Lake which is usually frozen over into mid-August. Here is a fantastic spot to view a sunset warming the peak of Old Snowy, or to see sunrise reflections off the mountain cirque into the ice-covered Goat Lake. This is also a good place to observe mountain goats, and I spotted more than 40 above the lake on my last trip. Marmots and pika are common in the area too, and while descending Goat Ridge I came face-to-face with a wolverine on the trail. Since fewer than 400 remain in the lower 48, I considered my sighting fortunate.

      Departing Goat Lake early in the morning, I continued on my loop to watch the sunrise along Goat Ridge. The ridge stays high in the alpine scenery, but the valleys drop off immediately to reveal gaping views of the distant Mount Adams. Descending from here, there are a few reflective tarns with views of Mount Saint Helens and the often-cloudy valleys below. I completed my loop and my trip with a steep descent along trail 95 through woodlands and meadows, which offered wildflower viewing opportunities.
      When I returned to my car, I felt refreshed and thankful for all that I’d seen. A few hours along a dirt road returned me home, and the photos I took along the way will always remind me of a trip to a place I love.
      Need to Know
      Information
      The area is managed by the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, 360-891-5000. A free backcountry permit can be obtained at the trailhead kiosk. A Northwest Forest Service Pass is needed to park your car at the trailhead parking area during your stay.
      Getting There
      From the north access can be made from Highway 12 to a number of trailheads, or you can take the drive connecting road FR21 to climb alongside Goat Rocks for more trail access. From the south, drive north out of the town of Trout Lake to FR23 past Mount Adams and connect to FR21 to a myriad of forest roads and different points of trail access. An atlas such as the Delorme Washington Atlas & Gazetteer can help with getting to and from the trailhead.
      Maps and Books
      I used a Goat Rocks Wilderness map offered by the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. National Geographic offers a Trails Illustrated map and Green Trails also offers their Goat Rocks Wilderness map.
      The guidebook 100 Hikes in Washington's South Cascades and Olympics by Ira Spring and Harvey Manning covers the Goat Rocks Wilderness pretty well. Backpacking Washington by Craig Romano and the Backpacking Washington guidebook both cover hiking in the Goat Rocks Wilderness.
      All images in this article © David M. Cobb Photography.
      Editor's Note: This article by contributor David Cobb originally appeared in Issue of 7 TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content. See more of David’s photography at dmcobbphoto.com.



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