By
Aaron Zagrodnick in TrailGroove Blog
0
Years ago, Governor Tom McCall of Oregon had a strange idea: he wanted to make all the beaches of Oregon open to the public, as he felt that the beaches belong to the people of Oregon. Now 382 miles of state trail exists from California to Washington along the beaches of Oregon, over headlands, through state parks and Federal land, and as rights-of-way over private land – some of the most beautiful country the state has to offer.
Most of the trail is along the beach or along maintained trails over headlands, but about 10% of the trail follows paved and dirt roads or runs along the shoulder of Highway 101.
Hiking the Oregon Coast Trail
When I walked this trail, I began my journey at Oregon’s southern border with California and walked north. I knew many of the major storm systems which reach the coast arrive from the SW and I’d rather have my back to the wind. I walked this trail in bits and pieces – not as a thru-hike because I live so close to the trail; but many people do walk the path in one shot. I carried a small backpack for gear and some food for the trip, but since you walk through coastal towns along the way you don’t need to walk far for resupply. Water is not a problem here either. Between coastal settlements and streams dropping from the Coast Range, water is readily available.
When walking this trail, I used different foot gear; sometimes barefoot along the beach, sometimes with sandals, and sometimes with hiking shoes as I ambled along the coastline and over headlands. Whatever footwear you choose, sand will be a problem and so will wetness. I rarely get blisters when I hike, but along this trail they seem unavoidable. For the longer stretches of the walk I also developed a hip problem I didn’t foresee. My guess is that by hiking on a slanted beach for over a week one foot was always about 3-6 inches below the other, which caused increased pain along the hip joint, muscles, and tendons – nothing like what I’ve experienced along any trail before. At times I’d traverse the beach backwards to relieve myself of pain.
One thing to be aware of while hiking the Oregon Coast Trail are the tides. I carry the app Tide Graph on my phone, but you can pick up tide booklets for the region in any coastal town to help you be aware of the tides. At low tide you can explore the many tide pools the Oregon coast has to offer, and at high tide you’ll be left high and dry above the shore.
An additional consideration are the birds. Some beaches may be closed due to the snowy plover nesting season, so you’ll want to check beforehand. Additionally on my hike I kept an eye out for sneaker waves and logs (rolled by waves), both of which I knew were something to be aware of on the Oregon Coast Trail.
Some of the more beautiful sections of trail are along many of Oregon State Parks (camping and yurt rental is available). The southern section along Samuel H. Boardman State Park is some of the best stretch of coastal walking I’ve experienced anywhere. This is a rugged land of sea arches, sea stacks, and hidden coves. The trail through Boardman is well maintained and well-marked with the Oregon Coast Trail posts and symbols. Heading north the trail goes along one of the hidden gems of the Oregon coast. Here Highway 101 cuts inland, but the trail hugs the coastline in seclusion making its way north along the sandstone cliffs north of Blacklock Point.
Hiking out from the pygmy forest offers dramatic views along the rim. Cape Perpetua is another wonderful state park along the sea. Once you pass the area of the Spouting Horn and Thor’s Well, you’re brought inland into some beautiful old-growth forest of Sitka spruce. Further north Cape Arago State Park awaits. The trail makes a winding spur out-and-back, but the hike is worth all the views the park offers.
When you’re not walking over headlands or along cliffs you’re walking the beaches of Oregon. Some of my favorite beaches along the way are Bandon Beach with its dramatic sea stacks, and further to the north Cannon Beach with its Haystack Rock standing sentinel. Further north as you’re getting close to the end of the trail you’ll walk past the shipwreck of the Peter Iredale, with its skeletal remains half-submerged into the sands of Clatsop Spit in Fort Stevens State Park.
Traversing the coast, you’ll also pass by many of Oregon’s lighthouses. Cape Blanco which stands at Oregon’s most westerly point and the Coquille River Lighthouse are two of my favorites. The towns and bays along the way can vary from quaint to touristy, but all are great places to get a warm shower, have a hot meal, and resupply before walking onward.
You can hike the trail any month of the year. The winter months can be rainy and muddy, but I do know of one person who thru-hiked the trail in the month of January and never got rained on once – a rare event. The best month with the fairest weather along the Oregon coast is usually September. After Labor Day weekend prices along the coast drop in conjunction with the best weather Oregon has to offer, making September my favorite month to visit the shore.
Camping is readily available as you hike the trail. While I backpacked the trail, I slept in State Park campgrounds, backcountry sites, along the beach, and in motels during severe weather. Pack a light tent or bivy sack, but make sure your tent can stand up in high winds.
Enjoy the hike, I found it to be a fairly easy trail for such a long distance, and I don’t know of many long-distance trails that offer you views of migrating whales while you travel.
Additional Info & Resources
Getting There
If you’re starting in the north or south, access is easy by automobile and a quick walk to the beach. If you’re flying into Portland you can get to Astoria, Oregon in the north and a cab can deliver you to the start of the trail. If you begin in the south, you’ll need to get to Brookings, Oregon or Crescent City, California, and again a cab could deliver you to the start of the trail. Also, Highway 101 parallels much of the Oregon shoreline, so access along the way is readily available.
Books and Maps
For a guidebook, see Hiking the Oregon Coast Trail: 400 Miles from the Columbia River to California as well as 100 Hikes: Oregon Coast. In regard to maps, Green Trails offers their Oregon Coast North, the Oregon Coast Central, and Oregon Coast South maps.
All images in this article © David M. Cobb Photography.
Editor's Note: This article by contributor David Cobb originally appeared in Issue 23 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content. See more of David’s photography at dmcobbphoto.com.