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I smiled as the white sprinter van disappeared down the road, leaving me with only one way home, the trail in front of me. Months of planning and waiting had finally come to an end as I started down the dirt path with my friend Jon. Jon had flown out to Colorado 18 hours earlier, and had driven through the night with me to southwest Utah.

This trip had been 3 years in the making; ever since I had seen the Kolob Canyons of West Zion in May, 2009 and decided I must come back. Ahead of me waited 4 days and 70 miles of trails and canyons as I traveled through the park.
A Zion Hike: The Plan
When it comes to exploring the Zion backcountry, the obvious choice is the Zion Grand Traverse. Without any side trips, the route is 49 miles with 10,000 feet of elevation gain, covering the entire park from the Lee’s Pass in the west to the east entrance. The traverse, however, skips out on one of the most sought after activities in Zion, canyons. I wanted the best of both worlds but without getting overly technical, so I chose to link up the Grand Traverse with hiking the Narrows of the Virgin River from the top down.
While planning for my trip, I found that for it to work within the timeframe I had available, I would need to reserve two permits, one for the night I would stay on the west rim, and one for the night I would stay in the narrows. These permits are available through an online calendar system, and would need to be reserved at 10am on the 5th of the month, three months prior to the month I wanted like to camp in Zion.
The other reservations that would be needed were two shuttles, one from Springdale to Lee’s Pass, and another from the East Entrance to Chamberlain Ranch. The shuttle prices may be steep, however it was more convenient than driving out a second car and saved us a lot of time.

The last step in the planning process was the gear. Because of the Zion climate, I brought a lightweight backpacking setup that would be suitable for dry desert hiking, with forecasted lows to be above 40 degrees. The only specialized gear I bought was a pair of approach shoes and a few drybags. The shoes were a non-waterproof, synthetic upper approach shoe with a very sticky but durable climbing rubber sole. This gave me a shoe that would drain and dry quickly when wet, provide traction, and hold up to the many miles the trip would cover. The dry bags were to keep essentials dry if our packs were submerged during the river decent.
A Backpacking Traverse Across Zion National Park
As Jon and I started down the trail from Lee’s Pass, I had to remind myself that the first half of the day would give me a false sense of security about the water supply in the region. After 4.5 miles of hiking down along the magnificent sand stone pillars and faces of the Kolob Canyons, the trail intersects La Verkin Creek, a year round water source for the region and the second largest water resource in the park. In many spots along the trail, pools formed that were deep enough to swim in, so Jon and I took full advantage by soaking our feet and enjoying the rare commodity in the desert. Frogs and insects were everywhere, all dependent on the creek that nourished the ecosystem that surrounded it. After 7 miles, we found the first detour of the trip, an out and back trail to see the Kolob Arch, the second largest natural arch in the world. While not as spectacular as Arches national park and the arches I’ve seen in Canyonlands, it was still a worthwhile side trip, and the viewing area made a good lunch spot.
After getting back onto the main trail, another quarter mile led us to the best water source in the area. The Beatty Spring is on the south side of the creek, just to the right of the trail before it heads uphill. On this trip the water was flowing very well with very good tasting water and we filled up as much water as we could carry.
After leaving the creek and a steep hike uphill, we found ourselves in a wide trail-less valley surrounded by cows called the Hop Valley. It was a beautiful area, and gave us a sense of off trail cross country travel. The little bit of water in the valley did not appear safe to drink, so we left it alone. Backpackers wishing to make the first day shorter may want to camp in Hop Valley at the designated campsites on the north side. This southern part of the valley is a patchwork of private and national park land, where private livestock is grazed. We exited the valley following a rarely used private road that lead us back to national park land, and to our next trail junction at the Kolob Terrace Road. Here we picked up the water we had planted earlier that day on the shuttle ride, which would be needed for dinner and keeping hydrated in the hot, dry desert environment.

From there we followed the connector trail uphill near the road, providing beautiful views of the start of the west rim area. A few years ago, dispersed camping was allowed along the connector trail, however new restrictions by the park service eliminated any camping in the area, meaning we would need to make it to the Northgate Peaks trail junction where dispersed camping was allowed. As we neared the junction, we came upon a beautiful pine forest just as the sun was setting on day one of our trip. After setting up our tent and chowing down on our dinner, we fell fast asleep while listening to the insects.
As we packed up camp for the start of day two, I was reminded of our luck in the weather. The high desert of the Colorado Plateau that stretches across southern Utah is no stranger to wild weather. We were on the tail end of monsoon season, and our trip had started off with a blue bird day. The high pressure system over the area kept it that way for the remainder of the trip, giving us only the occasional white puffy cloud. The storms that hit Zion every summer can cause flash flooding, and on the high exposed section of the trail coming up, we would have virtually no cover from weather. Ahead was the highpoint of our trip, lava point, a small plateau at 7890 feet with an outstanding overlook of our route down the west rim trail.
As we traveled towards Lava Point, we reached our next water source, the first natural one since leaving Beatty Spring. This spring under the lava rock scree fields on the rim of Wildcat Canyon was a small trickle, and surrounded by honey bees. With most of the trail being downhill today, our water needs were lessened and we did not have to spend much time at the spring, just filling up enough water to keep us happy, knowing that there are water sources ahead at Sawmill Spring, Potato Hollow, and at Cabin Spring near our next campsite. As we started downhill along the west rim trail, the view was immense to our left side. As we looked east, we knew that somewhere in the distance Deep Creek and the Virgin River were flowing down the canyon we would be hiking down in two days.

As we worked our way down the west rim, we enjoyed of the spectacular drops and carved canyons of the west rim as we passed viewpoint after viewpoint. We sat and tried to comprehend the vastness that lay in front of us, seeming almost unreal. The views disappeared for a few miles as we descended into Potato Hollow. As we hiked out of Potato Hollow, we found ourselves at the junction of the shorter Telephone Canyon route and the continuance of the west rim trail. We chose to follow our plan and continue down the west rim, again being treated to spectacular views. As we neared our destination for the day, campsite #2 near cabin spring, the main canyon of Zion came into view. Again Jon and I set up our camp and spent the remainder of the evening watching the sunset colors reflect off the walls of the main canyon of Zion, and as the light faded, the stars began to come out, filling up the vast blackness with millions of tiny lights.
The last day of our traverse posed an interesting challenge. No matter how you set up your permit for the Narrows, you are required to pick it up in person the day before your trip. So we were forced to take a detour mid-day to stand in line at the backcountry office in Springdale to obtain our permit. We took advantage of this opportunity to restock our food and enjoy lunch in Springdale. Before being able to head into town, we would need to descend over 2500 feet from our camp on the edge of the rim to the canyon floor.

As we started our decent, the dirt trail we had been following for the prior two days turned to stone and concrete, remnants of the conservation corps efforts to give access to the area around the canyon. Most of the trail had been blasted into the side of the cliffs, giving us a smooth and steep trail down the canyon.
Angels Landing
As we descended the canyon, our second detour appeared, Angels Landing. As Angels Landing grew larger, so did the crowds. Prior to Angels Landing, we had seen around 10 people on the trail in two days. Once we reached scout lookout, we dropped our packs for the mildly technical climb to the top of the landing. Chains had been installed years ago to make the passage along the sandstone fin safer, and in certain spots you could see the impressions of the chain link in the sandstone where use had slowly eroded the rock. Near the top, a beautiful view of the main canyon came into view, the reason why thousands of people from around the world climb up the canyon to stand there every year. After snapping a few photos at the top, Jon and I hurried down the fin knowing we still had a long day ahead of us.
We then hiked down to the base of the canyon at the Grotto Trailhead, our lowest point during the trip at 4360 feet, and took the shuttle back to the visitor center to pick up our permits for the narrows. The weather was forecasted to stay clear, so the ranger was allowed to give us our permits. When weather conditions are not ideal, permits will not be given because of the flash flood potential in the canyon. After obtaining our permits and taking care of our food and water supplies, we took the shuttle back to the Weeping Rock Trailhead. Here we had to dig deep and hike the steepest section of our route up to the top of the east rim at midday in the heat.

Near the crest of the trail, we came upon Stave Spring, which is nothing more than a pipe with a trickle of water coming out of it. The water from this source did not taste particularly good, so we were glad we filled up in Springdale. From this point, the remaining portion of the hike almost seems otherworldly. It’s all downhill, and you can see the end as you look down toward the Checkerboard Mesa and Jolly Gulch. As the sun set, the trail in front of us darkened. Finally, just after twilight, we found our trailhead sign that signaled we had finished the traverse. Because our permits allowed us to stay in the dispersed camping area of the east rim, we hiked back up the trail a short ways using our headlamps, and pitched our tent for the last night on the route.
The Zion Narrows
To travel to Zion without seeing the Narrows is like going to Yellowstone without seeing any geysers. The North Fork of the Virgin River cuts a deep rift into the landscape that eventually widens into the main canyon of Zion, creating a natural marvel. At its deepest point, the walls are nearly 2000 feet tall, and at some points it’s narrow enough to touch both walls with your arms and trekking poles extended. The plan was to complete what I called the Criss-Cross, linking our traverse to hiking the Narrows from the top down. Our second shuttle arrived on time to the East Entrance Trailhead, and shuttled us up the start of the Narrows at Chamberlain Ranch. We stopped at the Zion Ponderosa Ranch briefly to fill up on water since the narrows is downstream from livestock.
We arrived at Chamberlain Ranch at almost 11am. As we started down the dusty road that forms the beginning of the trail, we knew the landscape was going to drastically change as the river dove deep into the earth. Eventually we came to a point in the trail where there was no way to go other than into the river and completely soak your feet, so we jumped in. After three days of desert hiking, the cool stream on our sore feet was welcomed. Slowly the walls started to grow on either side of the creek, and we crossed the creek more times than we could count, staying in the creek when it was easier. After many twists and turns, the roar of a waterfall began to fill our ears and we found the only spot of the river that had to be bypassed. Luckily there is a narrow trail to the left of the river.

A few more miles down the river, as the walls kept growing, deep creek converged with the Virgin River, doubling the water volume. Still we felt solid footed and refreshed in the cool canyon, and pressed on down the river. At this point, we began to see the park-designated campsites, giving us a good idea of where we were and how much further we had to go. With plenty of sunlight left in the day, and feeling much more renewed than I expected, we were on a mission to finish off the hike that evening. We stopped at Big Spring to filer water with fantastic tasting spring water and then began the lower section of the Narrows. There we met a few day hikers that were hiking from the bottom up, encouraging us that the bottom was easily within reach before dark. As we started down the lower section, we encountered the deepest and most constricted section of the river, with parts deep enough to require us to remove our backpacks and walk with them over our heads. Here the walls towered over us, and at some points curved inward to almost form a tunnel, with only a sliver of sky showing though above us.

As we moved lower, a few more day hikers came into view as we passed the inlets of Imlay and Orderville Canyons. Finally a massive crowd appeared, signaling the end of the riverside walk starting at the Temple of Sinawava Trailhead. As we walked the last mile of our trip on the concrete path, getting odd looks from others with our full size backpacks and wet clothes, both of us felt overjoyed. After 4 days of hiking, we finally found ourselves at our final trail head, the Temple of Sinawava. We were soaked and tired, wishing we had another day of canyons and red rocks. We decided to finish off the night with dinner at the Zion Lodge, again getting odd looks from the upscale clientele at the restaurant there.
The Bonus
While having dinner, Jon and I decided to treat ourselves to a bonus trip. Jon had never seen the Grand Canyon, and I had missed my chance to see the north rim of the Grand Canyon the last time I was in the area, so we decided to drive to the north rim to catch the sunrise the next morning. As the sun started to come up, a small crowd gathered at the lookout, mostly local photographers that said that the weather and cloud level was ideal for creating a very colorful sunrise. As the sun came up, the whole landscape began to glow orange, treating us to a beautiful sunrise over the canyon.

After spending some more time touring the different overlooks on the mostly deserted north rim, we started back on the road, with a 12 hour drive to get back to Denver, and an early morning flight back to Chicago for Jon in the morning. This trip was certainly a life-lister, and had more solitude than the crowds of the main canyon.
Need to Know
Information
Zion National Park, Zion Canyon Visitor Center - (435) 772-0170. Kolob Canyons Visitor Center - (435) 586-9548.
Getting There
Springdale is the main town just outside of Zion. The closest major airport is Las Vegas, NV which is 2 ½ hours away. There are also smaller airports in Cedar City, UT and St. George, UT.
Maps
National Geographic Trails Illustrated #214.
Guidebooks
Zion: Canyoneering by Tom Jones (trail and Narrows information). Hiking Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks, a Falcon Guide.
All images in this article © Ted Ehrlich.
Editor's Note: This article by Ted "tmountainnut" Ehrlich originally appeared in Issue 7 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.

Stay fueled. Here are some versatile items that we like to always have in our food bag to add extra calories, flavors, and variety to backcountry meals. The possibilities are endless, but by carrying these ingredients you can take any off-the-shelf backpacking meal to the next level or add calories and taste to your own creations.
Dehydrated or Freeze-Dried Vegetables
A great way to add flavor and variety to your meals, as well as have a few servings of veggies during the day or with dinner. So many options...carrots, spinach, tomatoes, mushrooms, you get the idea! Harmony House is one company that offers a wide array of dehydrated and freeze-dried vegetables that are great to have in the backpacking pantry.

When it comes to dehydrated vegetables, you can take a wide variety of individual options, go for a mix, or dehydrate your own.
Olive Oil Packets
An easy way to add calories to any meal. Using olive oil packets is a lightweight & clean way to carry oil into the backcountry to avoid leaking or spilling (unless they are crushed and burst). Not a bad idea to pack these in a backup Ziploc or two as well.
Instant Mashed Potatoes
So many variations can be made with instant potatoes...for breakfast (add eggs, ham, etc.) or dinner (cheese, meat, veggies, etc). You may want to bring powdered milk and / or powdered butter for creamy potatoes.
Peanut Butter
Yes, it’s a little heavy, but it is packed with calories. You can pair this with small jelly containers from your favorite breakfast joint and serve on bread or tortillas or squeeze bottles for longer trips. Eat on its own or add to Asian-style dinners.
Chicken Packets (or Tuna)
Protein – add to a rice or pasta dish for dinner; add mayo packets & seasonings for chicken salad to serve on bread, bagels, or tortillas. But if you're looking to go for the best backpacking option in this regard, freeze-dried chicken is a pricier alternative but lighter in weight and typically tastes better as well.
Potato Chips
Maybe not the healthiest choice, but this snack food can add flavor, calories and a crunch to many dishes. We sometimes use crushed cheddar & sour cream chips to add extra flavor to freeze-dried meals – It’s like dehydrated potatoes and flavoring all in one.

Chips are lightweight, have plenty of calories, and can add both crunch as well as flavor to meals.
Tortillas
You can make a wrap out of nearly anything. Add extra calories to breakfast scrambles or freeze-dried meals. For lunches or snacks, you can use this to hold chicken salad or peanut butter & jelly (see above).
Cheese
Wax-sealed cheese rounds keep well on the trail and are great by themselves or added to lunches. Where they really shine is when melted into dinners or breakfast - melted cheese just makes everything better.
Chocolate
Maybe not the most versatile ingredient, but as a dessert a simple chocolate bar may be the best way to end the day on a good note. Dark chocolate bars keep well, are easy, and if it’s calories you’re looking for, no worries here.
Editor's Note: This installment of Backcountry Cuisine originally appeared in Issue 9 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

I thru-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail a while ago, so I was interested to view the film adaptation of the Cheryl Strayed book Wild to see how a long-distance hike was handled as a Hollywood movie. But Wild, the movie isn’t a hiking film; it’s more about a woman’s relationship with herself rather than her relationship with nature. Directed by Jean-Marc Vallèe, Wild follows Cheryl Strayed (played by Reese Witherspoon) on a 1,100 mile cathartic walk along the Pacific Crest Trail.
Wild Movie
After the death of her mother, a divorce, and a downward spiral, on a whim Strayed embarks on a hike of the PCT. Vallèe depicts the experience of a long distance hiker well in the film: from the small night noises, to the blisters, trail angels, memories, songs, and those millions of reasons to quit. The film splits from the trail at times to show flashbacks of Strayed’s former life, and it’s from those memories we learn why she has taken on this journey. Most of the flashbacks are recollections of her mother (superbly played by Laura Dern) who had a positive outlook on life – and it’s the memories and spirit of her mother’s optimism that finally helps pull Strayed out of her own abyss.

Director Vallèe has a theme of unlikely heroes in many of his films. In the Dallas Buyer’s Club, it’s Matthew McConaughey as a cowboy dying of AIDS, but finding a way for thousands to survive with the disease. In Young Queen Victoria, the unlikely heroine is the queen standing on her own against the entrenched powers of England and reigning longer than any monarch in British history. The film C.R.A.Z.Y stars the unlikely hero of a young man struggling in 1970s Montreal. So the director is in familiar territory with “Wild” and the challenges of a young woman with a dark past struggling against nature to reclaim herself.
Witherspoon is at her best in the film, losing the gloss we associate with her from earlier movies and opting for a more stripped-down acting role. During a long-distance hike there are reasons all day every day to quit, and fewer reasons to keep going. This in particular is demonstrated well. From the opening scene of pulling off a toenail to the body welts created by her massive pack, she’s in new territory with her acting. As she meets men along the trail, there sometimes come fears both genuine and imagined. This is a transformative role from a dark self to a better self along the trail, and as a long distance hiker I believed Witherspoon’s performance as a Pacific Crest Trail backpacker.
Wild was mostly filmed in my home state of Oregon, so I was happy to see so many familiar sites of the region. Cinematographer Yves Bèlanger helps bring the vastness of the trail’s landscape and the scenery of Oregon alive. I also know two of the hikers portrayed in the film, so that was of particular interest to me. The screenplay by Nick Hornby flowed much better than the book, as did the film. A couple of notable cameos in the movie: author Cheryl Strayed makes a brief appearance as a “trail angel” in an early scene, and rocker Art Alexakis (of Everclear fame) has an amusing part as a tattoo artist.
Concluding Thoughts
Whether you’re a hiker or not, Wild is entertaining and well-acted throughout. Backpacking films are few and far between, and they’re usually about growth and revelation along the trail and not about backpacking – The Way starring Martin Sheen comes to mind. Wild covers similar terrain, and does so in spectacular fashion. You can watch Wild here at Amazon.com and you can find the book here.
Editor's Note: This film review originally appeared in Issue 20 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

New Mexico is called the “Land of Enchantment” for several reasons. The natural beauty is as striking as anything found in Rockies or the Southwest. The history is deep. And an intoxicating blend of different cultures greets any traveler through this land. Another enchanting aspect of New Mexico? The food. And what delicious food there is to be had for any hungry outdoors person post-trip. Hatch chiles are delectable. Mole sauces delight the palate. And fresh sopapillas warm from the oven with fresh and local honey is a memorable accompaniment to any meal.

After a recent trip to New Mexico, I was again immersed in the flavors of this area. Out of this trip, this take on a traditional savory chocolate recipe was inspired. Instant chocolate pudding or mousse combined with cinnamon, chili powder, milk, and butter create a simple, but pleasing, dessert that has a taste of the southwest. Prepare at home, finish at camp. And enjoy watching the blazing colors of a Southwest sunset.
Ingredients
3 oz package of instant chocolate pudding or mousse ¼ cup Nido milk powder ½ tablespoon powdered butter for a creamier taste. ¼ tsp cinnamon ¼ or ½ tsp red chili powder. Add more chili powder for more heat. I like to use Ancho chili powder as it has a more subtle and nuanced flavor that pairs well with sweeter dishes. At Home
Mix all ingredients thoroughly in a resealable food storage bag At Meal Time
Add one cup of water to the bag and stir well. Let mixture sit for about ten minutes until it sets You can place the bag in a pot of cold water to quicken the process
This recipe will serve two backpackers. Or one hungry traveler who has explored the backcountry of New Mexico. And deserves a big dessert to go with the big scenery.
Editor's Note: This recipe by contributor Paul Magnanti originally appeared in Issue 34 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.

If you’re an avid backpacker, and you have ever thought about doing a trip in South America, you’ve doubtlessly heard of Torres del Paine National Park in Chile. And even if you haven’t, you would recognize some of the sights from magazines, books, and television. Within the park, there are many backpacking options but most travelers do either the “W” circuit which visits a number of the main sights on the southern portion of the main geologic feature of the park, the Cordillera Paine, while the extended “O” circuit does an extra section which loops around the northern side of the Cordillera del Paine. The “W” hike usually takes 3-5 days and the “O” can take anywhere from 6-10 days depending on speed and side trips.

The full excursion, which I’ll describe here, includes the full “O” along with side trips into the Vallé del Frances (French Valley) and another to Mirador Torres (Tower View). There are many variations on these loops, and people start from a number of different spots, so keep in mind I’m just describing my specific trip.
Torres del Paine National Park
Torres del Paine National Park lies around 51 degrees south latitude, very far south toward the southern tip of Chile in the region known as Patagonia. The main massif is composed of huge granite spires rising up to 2,800 meters above the glacial lakes, some of which are topped by the dark remnants of the long-ago eroded sedimentary rock. Some of the large glaciers connect to the huge Southern Patagonian Ice Field, which coats much of the southern Andes.
If you’re looking for solitude, this isn’t the hike for you. But for backpackers who enjoy fairly easy walking among jaw-dropping scenery, and the most backpacker friendly logistics for a trip on the other side of the world, then do not miss this hike. Embrace the cultural melting pot that is created by drawing lovers of the outdoors from all corners of the globe. Expect all sorts of weather from cold rain to howling wind to hot still afternoons. The busiest months are January and February, but hiking is usually good from late November through mid-April.
Although I didn’t see much large wildlife while on the trek, I saw guanacos (a type of llama) and the ñandú (Lesser Rhea, a large flightless bird) as well as a condor. This is to say, if you’ve made the journey to hike in the park, make sure to take a few days if you can to visit other parts of it. There are many other beautiful aspects and abundant wildlife.

Before describing my 2013 hike, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the devastating effect fire has had on the park. The constant winds and often dry grasses and trees combined with careless backpackers has led to some massive fires, including one that burned 150 square kilometers in 1985, one that burned 155 square kilometers in 2005, and in late 2011 and early 2012, a fire destroyed 176 square kilometers, much of which was old growth forest. There are no open fires allowed and all cooking should be highly controlled. And now on to the adventure!
A Hike on the O Circuit Begins
As I had already been in the park for a few days with my folks, I had a shuttle take me to the Hosteria Las Torres. You can leave a bag there, with the stuff that you’re not brining on the hike, for a nominal fee. Behind the hotel, high peaks with glaciers falling down their sides rose tantalizingly close. I followed a 4wd track to the northeast where to my right, rolling fields, lakes, and mountains rose gently toward Argentina while the hulking massif towered over my left shoulder. The path was easy and wandered through beautiful forests and open fields. When I came upon the burnt trunks of what must have been a beautiful stand of trees, and I felt the strong wind on my face, I understood first-hand the effects of fire here. One small flame can irrevocably change a landscape.
This first day was just an easy nine kilometers and when I arrived at the Campamento (camp) Serón, I set up my tent at the edge of a field with about twenty other tents. This was a wild place? It seemed more like an international hiker’s convention. Even though I was on the supposed “quiet” side of the loop, as many fewer people do the “O” than the “W”, clearly “quiet” was relative. If it wasn’t already, it became readily apparent that this hike was going to be visually stunning, though without real solitude. I knew that going in, however, and all the people were very nice. I ended up chatting with hikers from Switzerland, Israel, Germany, Argentina, Chile, France, and probably a few others I can’t remember. Luckily for me, English was the common language.

I quickly fell asleep in my one-man tent, and awoke to another beautiful sunny day. I had briefly chatted with a young American hiker named Justin the previous night, and we created an informal partnership for the next few days. We hiked along the glacial sediment filled Rio Paine as the wind started to pick up a bit. Eventually a solid twenty-minute climb took us up and over Windy Pass, and let me tell you, that feature deserves its name! In about the space of twenty meters, a gentle breeze turned into a steady wind of 70-80k with gusts of 100k! I could literally lean into the wind, with my backpack on and not fall over.
I was glad I had poles and still had to watch my footing as we traversed along a contour and gradually descended using an amazingly gentle trail as the steep slope dropped below our feet on the right and the wind continually tried to relinquish our stability to the force of gravity. At the bottom of the slope, Lago (lake) Paine rippled with miniature tornados while not-so-distant peaks displaying a prominent hard-edged treeline started to become obscured in menacingly grey clouds.
The clouds lowered, and so did the rain, so we just put our heads down and busted out the kilometers until we arrived at the Refugio Dickson. Sitting in an open field just a few hundred meters from the edge of Lago Dickson, the building was packed with people all trying to dry out their gear around an overburdened woodstove. The rain eventually stopped and for about thirty seconds I was relieved, so I started to set up my tent.

And then the little monsters hit. Within moments I was swarmed by thirsty hordes of mosquitos, clearly desperate for some North American blood. I tried to bite back, but they were too quick so I got in my tent, killed the remaining dozen or so that managed to squeeze in during the brief moment I had entered, and was glad I had brought some audiobooks as I lay down much earlier than normal. Apparently the 19 kilometers was enough to send me into a dream state quickly, and I woke up the next day refreshed and ready to go, albeit with slightly less blood.
The third day was another short one. Very short actually, just 9 kilometers, but involved a beautiful walk through the woods with early views back to Lago Dickson and the Glaciar Dickson. Compared to the open terrain in which I had been walking, here the forest was lush, with moss-covered trees, alien mushrooms, and a forest radiant with dappled golden light. The route went along and then over the raging Rio de los Perros with a large waterfall visible from the trail.
Around a kilometer from the Campamento Los Perros the trail popped out into open terrain as it skirted over large boulders on the terminal moraine that abutted the lake below the Glacier Los Perros. The wind was ferocious as I made it to the edge of the lake then quickly went down into the trees to the camp.

As the conditions over the upcoming pass (Paso John Gardner) had been treacherous, hikers from the previous day had stayed over, and it was crowded. I wandered around camp and onto the moraines above as the sun set over the high ridge of mountains to the west and the braided rivers coming down off the nearby glaciers shone iridescent silver in the low angled light. The days were long and I ended up asleep even before the light completely vanished from the sky.
Most people seem to consider the climb up Paso John Gardner as the most difficult section, and in inclement weather I could see how the alpine terrain in a whiteout could lead to scary situations. The approximate 650-meter climb was very straightforward for me however, and the effort was mitigated by the incredible views. Huge glaciers dropped off of Mts. Condor and Amistad as the recently snow-dusted peaks to the south and east went in and out of the clouds.
Popping up over the pass, my jaw dropped. Ahead of me the Grey Glacier spread out like a wide river of ice. Even though this was just the tip of the much larger glaciers coming down from the huge Southern Patagonian Ice Field, it was still about six kilometers across. The ice bent in seemingly impossible directions which forced crevasses to ripple across the surface of the glacier. The large outlet lake was visible five or six kilometers to the south.

This experience was one of the few times in my life that I had a hard time adjusting to scale. The boulders continued down the mountainside into an abrupt line of trees, which seemed to extend most of the way down to the glacier. I couldn’t tell what was one hundred meters, or one thousand away.
The path slowly wound its way through the boulders, and although not difficult, it was all that I could do to pull my eyes from the incredible sight below and watch where I was going. The trail headed down into the forest as it traveled south along the glacier, eventually contouring along a path 100-200 meters above the edge. Not far from camp, an incredible viewpoint next to a river, which seemingly fell right into the glacier, provided an unobstructed view.
Although I was antsy to get some more distance, I knew I would be heading into the crowded section, and wanted to enjoy a night knowing I’d wake up one more morning with views towards the glacier. So I set up my tent about ten meters from an overlook at the Campamento Paso. I had a nice conversation with a group of Chilean college students on break and enjoyed a large bowl of instant flavored rice before once again retreating to my tent to escape the mosquitos.

I woke up to a misty morning. The pleasant mist rapidly turned into a deluge so I saw no point in hanging around and hit the trail. The route itself was fairly straightforward as it went in and out of the woods, hugging the walls of the glaciated valley it slowly lost elevation, but two major river crossings made for some grey-hair inducing moments. Huge metal ladders led down to the banks of these rivers, which was sending large amounts of water down through a tight rocky notch and eventually underneath the glacier. There was no way to avoid wet feet, with a rope helping during the crossing.
After crossing a cool suspension bridge and another great view of the toe of the glacier, the trail came to Refugio Grey. This modern structure provided a nice café where I was able to get a lunch. One can reserve rooms there as well as tent outside. I took the opportunity to follow a short trail out to a small inlet in Lago Grey where ice chunks and some larger icebergs filled the still water with a plethora of unique shapes and sizes.
I continued to follow the trail south, passing many more people out doing the “W” circuit as well as those who were doing day hikes based out of the refugios and the boats from the few hotels in the park. The trail climbed through a forest that had recently been destroyed by a large fire. Eventually it hit a ridge where once again the wind picked up but allowed for incredible views of Lago Grey as it passed by smaller glacial tarns.

The trail led down to the Refugio Paine Grande, which was situated near the shores of Lago Pehoé. Originally planning to camp in the associated campground, I arrived to find the recently denuded landscape which had been devastated by the large fire a few years back. This created a situation where the wind was so fierce, many people were unable to set up their tents and a few even blew away as the poles snapped. I decided to get a room with meals and a shower and spent the evening in the bar watching the Super Bowl. I was glad to have a bed after hiking 21 kilometers through rough rivers and high winds.
The next day ended up being my longest day, 26 kilometers. During the morning hours the trail wandered through open windswept terrain with incredible views toward Los Cuernos (the horns) and Cerro Espada (sword peak). Los Cuernos is a range of peaks that are easily identifiable since the bottom half is composed of brown rock with trees climbing part way up, then a distinct layer of very light rock with another sharply defined layer of dark rock at the summits.

After about 7.5 kilometers, I crossed a bridge over the Rio Francés and arrived at the Campamento Italiano. This was mostly closed for camping as they were trying to restore some of the areas. I dropped my pack and grabbed a few things for a 13 kilometer out and back to the viewpoint in the Valle Francés. The trail leads into the heart of the Cordillera Paine as it climbs steadily along the Rio Francés and past the huge Glaciar Francés, which falls steeply off the eastern side of the Cerro Paine Grande all the way down to the valley where huge crevasses were evidence of the glacier’s movement.
The 360-degree panorama in the Valle Francés is stunning as the sharp points of over a dozen named peaks jutted imposingly into the sky. I was hard-pressed not to just stay there for the whole afternoon, soaking in the rugged landscape, but I had more kilometers to make and the Campamento Britanico in the Valle Francés was closed to campers.
I hurried back down the trail enjoying the views over the many large lakes to the south and was happy to find my backpack intact, which I’d like to think was partially due to my having put the nastiest pair of socks I own directly on top. The remaining 5.5 kilometers to the Campamento Los Cuernos involved a fairly easy walk above and then down to the shores of Lago Nordenskjold where a grey pebbled beach convinced me to relax by the lake as I watched swirling clouds pick up the late day sun.

When I arrived at the refugio and campamento I was glad to have my tent, as the place was a madhouse. There were hundreds of people using every tent site and filling up the refugio. Luckily, I headed down to the shore and found a great spot set back from the lake. Prior campers had smoothed out the ground and had built a rock wall, which sheltered me from the wind. This was probably my favorite campsite of the trip and I was glad to be separated from the crowds just a few hundred meters away.
On the seventh day of the trip, I followed the trail, which initially wound above and along Lago Nordenskjold. The large mountains rose up to my left as the less rugged, but also impressive series of cliffs, hills, and plateaus were visible on the far side of the lake. In this more traveled section of the route, nice bridges crossed some fairly significant rivers and eventually I came to a shortcut on the left that connected me to the trail that climbed up the Valle Ascencio.
A Conclusion to the O Circuit
I climbed steadily up a nice graded path as the Rio Ascencio rolled down the valley to my right. It started to rain and a few kilometers up the valley I crossed over the river and took a little break in the Refugio El Chileno. Folks were not happy, as they had just run out of water at the refugio. I filtered some water from the river, headed up the trail through a forest with large, then increasingly small and weathered trees to the Campamento Torres. I set up my tent in a small space between two trees after checking in with the ranger there. Just beyond the camp I was able to get a peek up toward the Torres and got excited for the next day. I went to bed early that night so that I’d be well rested for the next morning.
Both because I wanted to catch the early morning light, and I needed to have my camp cleared by 10am (a rule), I, along with most of the other hikers got up at 4am. It was very cold and I put on all the clothing that I had as I slowly climbed the trail up the through the rocks to the lake below the Torres. As daylight began to infiltrate the scene I saw the three Torres Del Paine, with their distinctive peaks and shear vertical walls rising high above. These mountains are apparently major destinations for rock climbers but from my vantage point I had a hard time believing folks could get up them.

When the sun finally peeked over the horizon to the east, the towers radiated a hue which shifted quickly from red to pink to golden orange as the shadows from nearby peaks crept lower and lower down the faces. It was windy and still very cold, but the sight made the suffering worthwhile as we all just stood there marveling in the beauty. I truly understood why the park was named after these Torres and I was glad to have saved this part of the trip until the last day.
Eventually the light shifted to regular daylight, and I went back down to the camp, packed up, and took the trail all the way back to the Hosteria Las Torres where I picked up my bag. I walked another kilometer over to the refugio and Campamento Las Torres where I took a much-needed shower, shared conversation with a few folks I had met along the way, and got on a bus to El Califate.
My Daily Distance
Day 1 – 9 kilomters
Day 2 – 19 kilometers
Day 3 – 9 kilometers
Day 4 – 12 kilometers
Day 5 – 21 kilometers
Day 6 – 26 kilometers
Day 7 – 17 kilometers
Day 8 – 15 kilometers
Need to Know
Information & Getting There
Although this is Chile, many people speak English. There are a few hotels in the park including the incredibly luxurious Explora Hotel. Some people come from Argentina and some come from Chile, but you’ll still most likely need to fly into Santiago or Buenes Aires before taking another mode of transportation down there. One common place to go is to the outdoor adventuring center of the region, El Calafate in Argentina. From there you can go to many attractions such as visiting the incredible Perito Moreno Glacier. Check the web for current travel prices and other ideas for traveling in the area. Exchange rates are always changing, especially in Argentina, so be aware that the value of your dollar could go up or down when planning the trip.
Best Time to Go
I was there in late January and early February and that is right in the middle of the high season. You could probably see fewer people if you went at the hiking season’s edge, in late November or early April, as December through March is the busiest period.
Maps
There’s a simple map provided by the CONAF which is the governmental organization that manages the national parks. I used the tear and water resistant Torres del Paine Trekking Map by Zagier & Urruty Publications.
Books
There are a number of books including Lonely Planet guides but I’m a big fan of Cicerone Guides. The book Torres del Paine – Trekking in Chile’s Premier National Parks by Rudolf Abraham, has nice photos, ample information, and it has a nice light water resistant cover and pages and fits in a jacket pocket.
Editor's Note: This article by contributor Eli Burakian originally appeared in Issue 23 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.