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On Trails by Robert Moor Book Review

Like most hikers, when I’m reading about trails it is usually with a practical purpose in mind. Guidebooks, forum posts, magazines, and trail status updates by government agencies are read diligently before an upcoming hike or perused when looking for ideas about where to hike next. When the owner of a local bookstore, familiar with my outdoor hobbies, recommended the book On Trails by Robert Moor to me I was intrigued by his description of the book as taking a holistic perspective on the subjec

Mark Wetherington

Mark Wetherington in Reading

Backpacking Wyoming's Breathtaking Bighorn Mountains

As I drove to the trailhead the mountains were hidden in the clouds. The highway allowed me to drive 80 mph through vast open spaces with few signs of human activity. The rain fell heavily. Although a Michigander at heart, a few weeks earlier I had set out on temporary work that would allow the opportunity for adventures out West. While I had enjoyed many backpacking adventures in the West, this short overnighter would be my first near my new home. Into the Bighorn Mountains The Bighor

Eric

Eric in Trips

Hiking & Exploring Kentucky's Red River Gorge

Usually when I travel, I am pulled to the west – New Mexico, Arizona, Utah, and surrounding areas. For my latest trip, however, I headed in the opposite direction and visited a place that I had first heard about several years ago: Red River Gorge Geologic Area in northeastern Kentucky. My companion for this trip was Joel, with whom I’ve taken several other trips, both mountain biking and hiking. We left Oklahoma on October 2nd, 2022 and spent four days hiking in the area. The Red Rive

Steve Ancik

Steve Ancik in Trips

How to Make Backpacking and Camping Pancakes

Pancakes are a tried-and-true breakfast dish, but they aren’t a common dish for backpacking. While I typically opt for oatmeal when on my backpacking trips, from time to time I like to add some variety by starting off my day with pancakes. Since this dish requires a skillet and spatula, I usually plan to make it when I’m having quesadillas for dinner during the same trip as I will need the skillet for that meal. Before or after the pancakes, the skillet can also be used for making scrambled eggs

Mark Wetherington

Mark Wetherington in Food

Turn Around Time by David Guterson Book Review

David Guterson’s Turn Around Time: A Walking Poem for the Pacific Northwest (Mountaineers Books, 2019) is a bold and much-needed undertaking in contemporary outdoor poetry, and though it may not reach the highest echelons of technical deftness and poignancy, it makes up for it in ambition. Turn Around Time is a unique read in a walking poem format. Reading Turn Around Time At its essence, Turn Around Time is a walking poem in the style of Wordsworth, Frost, and Thoreau, chro

Steven Genise

Steven Genise in Reading

Feathered Friends Egret 20 Degree Sleeping Bag Review

Muscle creates energy while adipose tissue stores energy. Energy in this context is synonymous with heat. The female anatomy typically consists of more fat than the male anatomy, especially in the chest and hip area. This is why women are generally perceived to sleep colder than men. Women’s bodies are highly efficient at keeping their vital organs protected and warm, but at the expense of our extremities. When hands begin to ache and toes go numb from coldness, these sensations relay a message

Adel

Adel in Gear

Zpacks Multi-Pack Review: More Capacity, More Convenience

On backpacks, I’m a huge fan of exterior storage. I’ve settled on a popular arrangement: A large interior storage compartment for items I likely won’t need while hiking during the day, a large outside pocket for items I might need when stopped, and dual side and hipbelt pockets for items I’ll definitely need while on the move like water bottles, maps, snacks, and other great to have at hand items. The Zpacks Multi-Pack builds on this idea by adding a large additional storage option with a variet

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Hot Weather Backpacking: Not Too Hot to Handle

In an ideal world that seems to only exist in outdoor gear catalogs, all our backpacking would take place in temperatures that are 65F during the day. Our nights would be a cool and crisp 45F or so. A few delightful sprinkles of rain would occur to add some atmosphere and perhaps a change of scenery to delight photographers. Otherwise there would be perpetually sunny skies with only a few clouds. Clouds to form interesting shapes that materialize as movie characters, castles, or butterflies in o

PaulMags

PaulMags in Technique

Thirst: 2,600 Miles to Home Book Review

A successful thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail is, by any means, a notable physical and mental victory. Setting the fastest known time (FKT) record on the PCT is a nearly superhuman feat of athleticism. Writing an engrossing, entertaining, and inspiring book about the experience is not only another accomplishment for Heather “Anish” Anderson, but is also a true gift not only to the hiking community but to readers in general. Written largely in a day-by-day format, Thirst: 2,600 Miles to Home

Mark Wetherington

Mark Wetherington in Reading

The PCT Method: How to Hang Your Backpacking Food

There’s more than one way to hang a food bag – but after trying a few, I’ve come to rely on the using the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) method. The PCT method balances simplicity, speed, and effectiveness. Rather than simply tying one end of your throw line onto a nearby tree, where a bear or another hungry forest dweller could attempt to chew through the line, break the line, or cause other forms of disorder, PCT style hanging eliminates that point of failure in a quick and easy way. The

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Technique

Vapor Barrier Liners (VBL): Backpacking & Hiking Jargon

A vapor barrier liner is some type of vapor impermeable layer often utilized and effective while recreating outdoors in very cold conditions. By preventing vapor transfer from your body into clothing, footwear, or a sleeping bag for example one is able to boost warmth and keep insulation dry in conditions where wet insulation would be very difficult to dry and result in compromised warmth. While using a VBL with your clothing and sleeping bag (for sleeping bags, see the Western Mountaineering Ho

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Breaking Into the Backcountry Book Review

Breaking Into the Backcountry (University of Nebraska Press, 2010), is a memoir of solitude, anxiety, and beauty. It is the story of Edwards’s 2001 experience with the famed Boyden Wilderness Residency, in which an author lives in a remote homestead in the Klamath Mountains, alone, and with only a generator for (limited) power. A chance for the kind of true, unparalleled solitude the likes of which writers seldom get. But Edwards is young, and deeply inexperienced, having grown up in suburban In

Steven Genise

Steven Genise in Reading

Durable Water Repellent / DWR: Hiking & Outdoor Jargon

Durable water repellent (DWR) is a coating added to the surface of a fabric to aid in waterproofing without sacrificing (and usually aiding to) breathability. The most frequent application of DWR in the outdoor gear world can be found in breathable rain gear and breathable water resistant shells. If the surface of the fabric were to “wet out”, breathability through that portion of the fabric would be severely compromised. DWR allows for water to bead and roll off the surface of the fabric, maint

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Hiking Blister Prevention, Treatment, and Care

Blisters are a very common hiking injury. Blisters can cause a trip to become very uncomfortable, and in worse case scenarios they can slow you down significantly causing unintended consequences. I find a small first aid kit with a few specific items and some practice will eliminate most foot issues, and will quickly alleviate small problems before the blisters and related problems get big. Preventing blisters from happening is the first step when it comes to backpacking and hiking bl

tmountainnut

tmountainnut in Technique

Backpacking and Fly Fishing: An Introduction

An argument can be made for keeping backpacking as simple as possible. Stuff your pack with warm clothes, a tent, your sleeping bag, and any other luxury items you wish to carry. Grab a map, hit a trail, and set off through your local woods, the red rocks and canyons of the southwest, or hike towards high alpine cirques. Unbothered by the distraction of the world back at home, you’ll have nothing but the sounds of nature to rock you to sleep wherever you decide to set up your tent. Ho

jansenjournals

jansenjournals in Technique

Montbell Mirage Down Parka: Long Term Review

If you’re comparing specifications among commercially available light to mid-weight down parkas, one option will surely start to rise to the top of the list as you compare down fill and overall weights across the board – the Montbell Mirage. As a long-time user of their popular and lighter U.L. Down Inner series, and as a backpacker who isn’t afraid to carry a few extra ounces if the comfort trade-off is worth the weight, the Mirage is tempting option for shoulder season and winter trips, or for

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

How to Keep Your Pillow on Your Backpacking Sleeping Pad

We all know a better night of sleep leads to a better next day of hiking. While the most ultralight of pillow techniques calls for using extra clothes, stuff sacks, water reservoirs, or anything you can find all stuffed into another stuff sack, many of us are already wearing the majority of our clothing in our sleeping bag, leading to a bleak build-your-own pillow situation. This case calls for a separate (and more comfortable) dedicated pillow, and with many options now weighing just

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Black Diamond Firstlight 2P 4-Season Tent Review

Shelter from the elements is a crucial component of a backpacker’s equipment list and having adequate and reliable shelter is of paramount importance in winter. When I primarily backpacked in the Southeast, I was able to get away with using a three-season tent or a tarp for backpacking trips in the winter months without any issues. However, when I moved to Montana and knew I would be backpacking year-round in the Northern Rockies, a dedicated winter tent quickly rose to the top of my “to buy” li

Mark Wetherington

Mark Wetherington in Gear

How to Keep Your Backpacking Sleeping Pad in Place

No matter the lengths we may go to in order to find a great campsite, when it comes to the flat and level part of the selection process I can think of only a few occasions when a chosen spot for the night was truly perfect in this regard. Most of the time in the backcountry, instead of finding a spot that is perfectly flat and level, you’ll likely end up finding one that’s flat and level enough. When you combine these types of sites with a slippery tent floor and especially when combined with sl

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Technique

Tarptent Hogback 4-Person Tent: Long Term Review

With a new addition to the family nearly 15 years ago, I at first held fast to my minimalist approach to backpacking, and on our first trips together we tried to make smaller shelters work. We could find a way to all fit in a 2+ person tent right? For two adults, a child, and a dog who somehow takes up twice as much space when asleep than awake those shelters worked, but without a doubt made for some of the most uncomfortable backcountry sleeping arrangements in recent memory. I learned my lesso

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

Backpacking & Outdoor Gear Maintenance & Repair Guide

A great season was enjoyed. And it is not quite the end of winter. Spring is almost here. The fine art of ski touring was mastered a bit more. The goal of one winter backpacking trip a month was achieved. Some foothills trail work was done on a few occasions. Your trusty leather hiking boots not only let you walk up to a trail work site, but also became coated with mud on some of the warm winter days that occur just before spring. Your down coat seems a little grungy from some deep shoulder

PaulMags

PaulMags in Gear

Mountain House Buffalo-Style Chicken Mac & Cheese Review

While this new meal from Mountain House wasn’t quite released in time to make our full backpacking mac & cheese roundup in Issue 51, it seemed almost a necessity to test out this new meal given the recent release of our previous article. This take on the dish from Mountain House definitely shakes things up however, as a mac & cheese with freeze-dried chicken and Buffalo wing sauce now added. While most everyone likes mac & cheese and I’ll personally go for some Buffalo chicken most d

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Food

Tarptent Scarp 2 4-Season Tent Review

When it comes to backpacking gear and especially the big three or four (shelter, sleeping bag, pack, and pad) there are two schools of thought to meeting the needs of different types of trips across the different seasons. On one hand, one can choose to select from an array of seasonally specific choices – for example having 3 sleeping bags with different temperature ratings that ideally fit each trip at just the right weight. On the other hand, one could just choose gear that fits every trip wit

Aaron Zagrodnick

Aaron Zagrodnick in Gear

  • Blog Entries

    • Aaron Zagrodnick
      By Aaron Zagrodnick in TrailGroove Blog 0
      A staple technique used in pre-packaged backpacking meals, freeze-drying is a process by which food (typically already cooked or a product that could be eaten raw) is frozen and the pressure in a chamber lowered. As a result moisture in the product is almost completely removed and foods that are freeze-dried can last years or even decades without refrigeration.

      A commercially available freeze-dried meal prior to rehydration.
      Freeze-Dried Pros and Cons
      Compared to at-home or commercial air dehydration, which uses heat, freeze-dried products retain more nutrients, taste, and original textures when rehydrated compared to a dehydrated product. Of course this does come with a couple drawbacks – freeze-drying at home is typically out of reach for the home backpacking chef, and freeze-dried foods are noticeably more expensive.
      More Freeze-Dried and Backpacking Meal Resources
      See our Top Ten Freeze Dried Backpacking Meals article for more on some of our favorite freeze-dried meals, and for a wide selection of freeze-dried meals on the market, you can see this page at REI Co-op. See our guide to Dehydrating Your Own Backpacking Meals at Home for some quick tips on creating your own meals prior to a trip.
      Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 54 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.
    • Steve Ancik
      By Steve Ancik in TrailGroove Blog 0
      Vermilion Cliffs National Monument is a vast plateau in north central Arizona and adjoining southern Utah. The 280,000-acre (roughly 20 miles east-west by 20 miles north-south) monument includes the rugged and beautiful Paria Plateau and Coyote Buttes North and South. The plateau is also known as the Sand Hills. Many hikers and photographers visit The Wave, Paw Hole, Cottonwood Cove, and White Pocket. All those are worthy destinations, but going beyond yields even more impressive hikes, views, and experiences.

      The plateau towers nearly 3,000 feet above the plains to the east, and is bounded by Highway 89A and Marble Canyon on the east, Highway 89A on the south, House Rock Road on the west, and Buckskin Gulch and the Paria River on the north. Everywhere on the mesa are Navajo sandstone outcrops and loose sand. The sandstone originated as a huge wind-blown sand dune field, which was subsequently compacted and cemented into rock and is now eroding into a plethora of bizarre and unique shapes to see and photograph. The dune remnants are visible as striated layers, towers of sandstone, hoodoos, “brain rocks,” and strange twisted layers. Driving in the monument is time-consuming even with a high clearance four-wheel drive vehicle, and impossible for a typical passenger vehicle. Hiking in these areas is not easy either, as there are few established trails. Exploring the plateau is a “look and explore” type of experience. Give yourself plenty of time to wander, backtrack, and take pictures. And then take more pictures! One could easily spend several weeks visiting all the amazing locations in this area and still need more weeks to see the areas you missed the first time!
      A Vermilion Cliffs & Grand Staircase Trip Begins
      In September 2021, my usual hiking buddy Ward and I took a week-long trip to visit the plateau and to see more of it than we had been able to in past trips. This was our fourth trip to the monument, and by far the most extensive and inclusive. On previous trips, we had visited Coyote Buttes North (The Wave) and Coyote Buttes South (Paw Hole and Cottonwood Cove) as well as White Pocket (see TrailGroove Issue 33). For several years we had been wanting to camp on the “edge of the Vermilions,” and this was our chance!

      Peppermint Wave in Arizona's Vermilion Cliffs
      Arizona's Vermilion Cliffs
      Our trip started with a long day of highway driving, ending at Tuba City, AZ where we stayed at the beautiful Moenkopi Inn. Continuing the next morning, we arrived at the plateau after crossing Marble Canyon on Highway 89A and entering the national monument from the southern end of House Rock Road. We headed onto the plateau by the best road into the interior of the monument – BLM 1017. Once we reached Pine Tree Pockets, the real fun began. With my sister’s borrowed 4Runner, we were able to travel on the plateau over miles and miles of single-lane tracks, often with deep sand. This first day, we crossed the nearly 20-mile-wide plateau from west to east on a variety of tracks, passing through a herd of cattle in Pinnacle Valley, and stopping at several places on the way, including The Beehives.
      We arrived at the end of the track at the Soap Creek Tank area and parked. In the area near the end of the road is a good stand of scattered mature ponderosa pines and plenty of beautiful exposed sandstone. Lots to see even if you don’t go much farther, but we had a destination – the edge of the cliff! Backpacks on, we hiked in an easterly direction, knowing that it was just over a mile (as the California Condor flies) to the edge of the plateau. Between our parking spot and the cliff, however, was a ridge that was a couple hundred feet above us, and then about 300 feet back down to the level of the plateau’s edge.

      Much of the area was easy hiking once we found our way up and down the sometimes steep sides of the ridge. Up and down and across Soap Creek Pasture we went until we got to the eastern edge, then we wandered a bit to find the ideal camping spot. It was a beautiful area, with great views that were somewhat hindered due to smoke from a fire somewhere nearby on the north rim of the Grand Canyon. From the edge of the plateau the cars on the thin gray line that is Highway 89A appeared to be about a pixel wide. Beyond the highway is Marble Canyon, through which the Colorado River flows between Lee’s Ferry and the confluence with the Little Colorado River on its way to the Grand Canyon. One of the highlights that evening was spotting a couple of California Condors, one directly overhead!
      The next morning we hiked back to our parking spot (about 1.3 miles), then drove back west and north to stop at Joe’s Ranch. This is one of several old ranches on the plateau. Beginning in the 1880s and through several other owners until the 2000s, the ranchers raised sheep, Angora goats, and cattle. Joe’s cabin, some outbuildings, and fences are still present on the site. The area around the ranch is now owned by the Grand Canyon Trust. We parked and hiked around Joe’s, then drove farther west and then north through Cathedral Valley. We drove, stopped, and hiked numerous times most of the rest of the day, with many photos shot. Included in these stops, we saw the Cowboy Hat, Flame Wave, Pink Sink, as well as several unnamed areas (many of the names of these barely-known places came from a hiker named Dave Coppedge, who has explored much more of the plateau than I ever will). We encountered just one section of road that was too steep/too sandy, so we had to turn back – the only time on the whole trip! Our camping destination for the night was White Pocket, a place we had visited several years ago.

      Just to the northeast of White Pocket, there are a series of mesas that the aforementioned Dave has explored. We decided to hike between the two nearest mesas, going northeastward on the east side of Spur Mesa, then across the valley to hike southwestward in the afternoon on the west side of Caterpillar Mesa. We ended up hiking around 5 miles over 5 hours, with over 600 feet of descent and ascent. During all this, we saw absolutely no sign of any other hikers having ever been in the area, although surely there have been a few (including Dave). Along the way we saw Peppermint Wave and the Paria Puppets (Dave’s names) and the Stacked Pancakes (my name). It wasn’t an easy hike, with many ups and downs and no trail at all – just sand, junipers, low brush, and what I called “those dang yellow flowers” which were everywhere, about 3 to 4 feet tall and stiff-stemmed. Definitely not an easy hike, but very scenic!
      We got back to our campsite at White Pocket in mid-afternoon, and after a bit of rest I decided that since we were there, I would wander a bit and take a few pictures. Mid-afternoon is not the best time for photography, but still…I could not resist! Once I arrived back at the vehicle, we packed up and headed toward town (Page, AZ in this case). Having driven about 50 miles of sandy tracks over three days (and not getting stuck once!). I handed the keys over to Ward at Pine Tree Pockets for the drive to Page where we got a room for the night (and showers!) and had dinner at The Dam Bar and Grill.

      Sidestep Canyon in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
      Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
      For some added off the beaten track hiking, we next went to the southern part of the nearby Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (GSENM) to visit Sidestep Canyon. Sidestep is the next canyon west of the better known Wahweap Hoodoos. I’ve had this canyon on my wish list for years, and it did not disappoint! Our hike started at White Rocks Trailhead and went northeast following a dry (at least this time) creek bed for the first mile or so, until we came to a concrete dam blocking further travel. From that point we had to climb up about 300 feet to the top of the mesa and then followed a fairly well travelled path to the edge of the canyon. We saw the upper part of Colorful Canyon (must return someday to see more!) just before we arrived at Sidestep Canyon.
      The trail followed the southern edge of the canyon for a good distance before finally petering out at a side canyon. We could see a couple possible ways down into the canyon, all quite steep and sketchy-looking. There was one obvious better way down beyond the side canyon, but we opted to turn back at that point. We did get into the upper part of the canyon before heading back to the truck. This ended up being just over 7 miles of hiking with about 560 feet of climbing and descending.

      That night we camped at White House Campground, saw a beautiful sunset, and had a good view of the Milky Way. The next morning, we packed up and headed north on Cottonwood Canyon Road in GSENM to visit The Box of the Paria River and Red Top. We had been to a nearby and better-known area called Yellow Rock years ago and I had noticed this large obvious red outcropping to the south and had wanted to return. Today was the day! We hiked from the truck for a short distance to the river and then were in and out of the meandering flow (it was less than 6 inches deep in most places) for the next mile and a half, at which point we climbed out on a steep slope, ascending about 400 feet in less than a half mile.
      After the climb, things got even more interesting – scenic views in every direction and oh so much color! Red, beige, orange, yellow, tan, colors without names, more yellow, and the various greens of the vegetation. It was an up and down cross-country hike the rest of the way to Red Top, and by this time I realized that someday I am going to need to get my knee replaced. The hike ended up being about 5.3 miles with 690 feet of ascent/descent. I suffered most of the way back to the car, but it was worth it for the scenery we saw.

      The Vermilion Cliffs National Monument and nearby parts of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument offer a stunning variety of scenery and hiking opportunities. In Vermilion Cliffs, we drove about 50 miles and barely scratched the surface, passing by many scenic outcrops that beg to be explored. In Grand Staircase we merely explored the edge of a monument that covers over 1.8 million acres. If you need to get away from civilization, these are the places for you! During the hikes we took on this trip, we did not encounter a single hiker, with the exception of my short time at White Pocket. The scenery was just as dramatic, and even more so in spots, and the photographic possibilities were endless. There is so much to see in both monuments that I am already planning my next trip to explore even more seldom-seen spots.
      Need to Know
      Information
      General information on Vermilion Cliffs National Monument can be found here. These areas are isolated with no services. The roads are difficult to drive on. You can check conditions before driving – the park service has three nearby ranger stations: The Paria Contact Station, the Big Water Visitor Center, and the Kanab Visitor Center. Cell phone coverage is spotty. We took extra water, extra food, spare tires, and supplies to help get our vehicle unstuck.
      Best Time to Go
      Spring and fall offer temperatures that are more moderate and comfortable than summer. Summers can be brutally hot (my first trip to the Wave many years ago was on July 4th when it was nearly 100 degrees). Winters can be cold, with occasional snow. I have not yet visited in the winter, but have seen photos of the area with snow, and it looks amazing!
      Getting There
      From Page, AZ go west on Highway 89 approximately 36 miles, or from Kanab, UT go east approximately 39 miles on Highway 89, then turn south on House Rock Road. Drive approximately 20 miles to Pine Tree Road which heads east onto the plateau (there is a corral on the west side of the road at the intersection). House Rock Road is usually passable by any vehicle, but can become impassable after rain or snow. If you are coming from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, go north to Highway 89a at Jacob Lake, then turn right onto 89a, drive about 14 miles to House Rock Road then turn left and go north to Pine Tree Road.
      Maps and Books
      National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map #859 (Paria Canyon, Kanab) and Trails Illustrated Map #714 (Grand Staircase Paunsaugunt Plateau) cover all the areas driven and hiked in this article. Individual USGS topographic maps are also available: For the parts of the Paria Plateau that we travelled on this trip: Poverty Flat, Wrather Arch, One Toe Ridge, and The Big Sink. For Sidestep Canyon: Nipple Butte and Lower Coyote Springs. For help planning your trip to and from the trailhead as well as exploring other destinations in the area, the Delorme Arizona Atlas & Gazetteer and the Utah Road & Recreation Atlas from Benchmark Maps can be useful.
      For Red Top: Calico Peak and Fivemile Valley. The Paria Plateau is discussed in depth in Hiking and Exploring the Paria River by Michael R. Kelsey and is a great source of information, including the roads, the sights, and the history of Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. Also included in the book are areas from Bryce Canyon to the south through the western parts of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.
      Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in Issue 52 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.
    • Aaron Zagrodnick
      By Aaron Zagrodnick in TrailGroove Blog 0
      In mountainous areas most live in the valleys and often hike in the mountains – normally a colder environment as you gain elevation. However in winter, often a surface temperature inversion will form in these areas as cold air, in contrast to the norm of temperature decreasing several degrees for every 1000 feet gained, remains trapped in the valleys, and often along with the any air pollution that may exist.

      Inversions are likely to happen during periods with long winter nights, calm winds, and clear skies. The long clear nights create a scenario where the ground and air closest to the surface is allowed to cool the its greatest extent, is not mixed into warmer air higher in the atmosphere by wind, and the resulting cold air naturally settles in lowest spots and is overrun with warm air.
      Typical Winter Hiking / Inversion Considerations
      This is in contrast to typical weather patterns where the sun warms the air closest to the ground, with that air gradually losing heat as it rises. While those below sub-zero winter hikes and backpacking trips can be quite rewarding, taking advantage of an inversion may find you leaving your house in near arctic conditions to find chilly, but pleasant hiking weather higher in the hills. As such, inversions can at times, be a winter hiker’s delight.
      To learn more about weather patterns and phenomenon Peterson’s Field Guide to Weather is a good resource. See our Winter Backpacking Guide for more on winter backpacking considerations.
      Editor’s Note: This Jargon installment originally appeared in Issue 32 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.
    • AndreaL
      By AndreaL in TrailGroove Blog 0
      Less than a mile up the trail and the space between my shoulder blades already aches. I’m regretting the overpriced mini tube of sunblock, which the dense trees and clouds have rendered unnecessary, the extra layer I threw in at the last minute, and my insistence on healthful foods that caused me to pack two pounds of green beans and carrots fresh from the garden, a jar of sunflower seed butter, and three loaves of German bread the size, shape, and weight of bricks.

      My last backpacking trip, thirteen years ago, involved a three-mile hike to nearby Chimney Pond, carrying my oldest son in a front pack, while my last major trip was a seventy-mile honeymoon hike in Colorado two years earlier. The only times I’ve lugged a backpack this heavy since then, it held a toddler. I decide to be grateful that the contents of my pack are not pulling my hair or throwing sippy cups onto the trail that we have to backtrack to retrieve.
      Baxter State Park Backpacking
      My nine-year-old son Zephyr trudges ahead of me, sliding his pack straps to his elbows, complaining that his arms are falling asleep. After a while, we meet Zephyr’s twin brother, Emmet, sitting in the middle of the trail eating GORP with my friend Brett. Brett heads up the trail while Zephyr and I join Emmet for a rest. I’ve always hiked like the tortoise, slow and steady, catching up to my companions as they finish their breaks, so this position of sweeper suits me. I know that my husband, Curry, is miles ahead with my thirteen-year-old son, Milo, and Brett’s son, Gabe.
      We finish our snack, shoulder our packs, and make our way across boulders that dot a stream, but all too soon Emmet and Zephyr complain of being tired again. We stop and I hand them each a meat stick and gnaw on my own vegetarian jerky. There are many things I want my kids to get out of this trip – the experience of being in wilderness, close contact with nature, time with their parents free of daily distractions, the satisfaction of succeeding at a physically demanding experience – but my main goal is a selfish one. I want them to have a good time because I have plans for a much bigger trip next summer. So I let them take all the breaks they want and, after they finish their meat sticks, I hand them each a lollipop.

      We near Whidden Pond, our only real chance for a view of Katahdin, the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail and centerpiece of Baxter State Park, covering ground but with frequent breaks and the our morning continues like this, stop-and-start. “Did this used to be a stream?” Emmet asks of the rock-and root-studded trail that makes for slow going. I take pictures of bunch berries and mushrooms and try to keep the boys happy and comfortable. As we approach noon, I get irritated that Curry hasn’t stopped to wait for us. While we both have lunch food in our packs, it’s not evenly divided, and I’m afraid if we stop to eat we’ll fall even farther behind. We finally catch up to the group at the fork with the Wassataquoik Stream Trail at about one in the afternoon, three-point-three miles up the trail and two-and-a-half hours after we started.

      Emmet, Zephyr, and I sit down for crackers and cheese and I try to foist green beans and carrots on everyone. Milo offers to carry some of my weight, so I stuff the lunch bag in his pack, and we refill our water bottles at the stream and move on up the trail. Energized from lunch, Emmet and Zephyr hike ahead, while I drift to the back. When I reach Wassataquoik Stream, the boys have already forded and reassembled on the other side. Milo and Gabe come back across, offering assistance to Brett and me as we wade the thigh-deep water. Once across, everyone surges ahead and I hike alone until I meet Emmet on a stretch of bog bridges that leads to the campground, where he wades in the lush sphagnum moss, picking blueberries from the laden bushes along the trail.
      Eventually we make it to camp and, while the adults busy themselves starting dinner, the boys go off exploring. After a few minutes, Emmet comes running back, “A moose!” he yells. “A real moose.” We tend to the macaroni and cheese in camp and settle in for the night.
      Day 2: Russell Pond to Wassataquoik Lake
      I start the morning with a swim. Russell Pond is shallow with a mucky bottom, and everyone else refuses to go in because they think there are leeches, but the water is refreshing and I’m happy to take any opportunity to swim. After a leisurely breakfast, we set out for Wassataquoik Lake.
      Russell Pond is situated somewhat centrally between the Katahdin area and South Branch Pond and can be just one stop in a multi-day backpacking trip that includes other campgrounds and lean-to sites, but we have chosen to use it as a base camp and take day trips to nearby destinations. Curry carries our lunch and water in a daypack and I carry a stuff sack with my swimming suit, pack towels, bug repellent, and sunblock. The boys return to their usual unencumbered hiking mode and we all move along the trail more quickly.

      Milo hikes behind me for a time, right on my heels, but when I ask him if he wants to pass, he demurs. He tells me he’s having fun and I ask if it’s easier today, without a pack.
      “I forgot I even had a pack on,” he says.
      “You’re made for this,” I say.
      “What do you mean?”
      “I mean you’re a born hiker.”
      “I thought I was made to sit around playing guitar.”
      “Can’t you be both?” I ask.
      Wassataquoik Lake is long and deep, surrounded by mountains. We spread out on the small gravel beach, swim in the clear water, and eat lunch while the kids chase frogs and take turns paddling a kayak. After lunch, we canoe up the shore to the trail to Green Falls. A short climb leads us to a stunning cascade over the face of a moss-covered rock. After exploring the falls, we paddle back down the lake and hike back to our campsite, stopping along the way for yet another swim at Deep Pond.
      In the evening, I watch from the big rock on the shore below our campsite as Curry and Zephyr take a canoe out so that Zephyr can try out the fly rod he packed in. He appears to have gotten the hang of casting the line, but the fish don’t bite. Instead I see them leap out of the water near my rock, snapping at big dragonflies that patrol the pond’s surface.
      Day 3: Russell Pond to Lookout Ledges and Grand Falls
      I wake to the sound of a loon. Russell Pond’s campsites are spaced well away from each other, nestled in trees, shrubs, and ferns, so that we barely notice other campers and hear only the sounds of frogs at night and birdsong during the day. Curry and Zephyr are already out on the pond, fly-fishing, again with no luck. Curry is disappointed that no one wanted to make the nine-mile hike to Baxter Peak (Katahdin’s high point), or even the more modest seven-mile hike to Hamlin Peak. I sympathize with his desire to get above tree line, but Emmet and Zephyr are on the verge of mutiny. “I’m not hiking more than three miles,” Zephyr declares and Emmet has to be coaxed out of his pajamas and the lean-to with lollipops.
      Emmet and I fall to the back of the pack as we set out on the morning’s hike to Lookout Ledges. “Whoever invented hiking for fun had a really bad idea,” he says as we climb up through mossy boulders, bracken fern, spruce trees, and blueberry bushes. I remind him about all the fun things on this trip – seeing the moose, picking blueberries, talking to me as we hike without getting interrupted by his brothers – and give him another lollipop.

      At the Ledges, massive boulders that poke above the trees and give a view of distant, blue-tinged mountains, we eat an early lunch and the boys leap back and forth over gaps between the rocks, then we make our way back down the trail. When we reach the trail juncture, Curry, Milo, and Gabe head toward Grand Falls, while the rest of us return to the campground. Emmet and Zephyr stop to catch frogs at the bridge over the inlet to Russell Pond while a moose noses her way through the brush nearby, indifferent to our presence.
      Back in the campground, I take another swim before helping Zephyr and Emmet ease a canoe into the water. Russell Pond is the perfect size for two nine-year-olds to work on their paddling skills without much danger of getting themselves into trouble. After a while, Brett joins them in the boat and they explore the farthest reaches of the pond while I rest in the sun.
      Curry, Milo, and Gabe return from Grand Falls just before dinner. On their hike, they checked out Inscription Rock and other artifacts of New City and Baxter’s logging history, climbed down into a deep gorge to take a dip in the cold, clear waters of Wassataquoik Stream, and looped back via the Ledge Falls and Wassataquoik Stream Trails. They look happy and tired, satisfied with their day’s adventures even if they didn’t climb Katahdin.
      Day 4: Russell Pond to Roaring Brook via Wassataquoik Stream Trail
      It starts to rain just as we leave the campground. For a while, we hike together as a family, Curry and me singing Kenny Rogers’ “The Gambler,” which has been stuck in my head since Milo taught the other kids to play poker the second night. As we drift apart, I listen to the sounds of raindrops on the trees and watch the boys’ red-sleeved arms swing at the sides of their green packs, everything brightened by the glistening rain. Ahead of us, we have two stream crossings and miles of wet, soppy trail. But I feel good – happy – as if I’ve woken up from the hiker’s version of “The Ten-Year Nap.” This is who I am. This is where I’m supposed to be, out in the wild, moving under the power of my own feet, close to nature, with those dearest to me.

      After the stream crossings, the group moves ahead while Emmet and I pull up the rear again. I listen to him chatter about movies, books, his friends, and Pokémon. The sun comes out in time for lunch. We make it to the trailhead in an hour-and-a-half less than it took us to hike in. Maybe because the rain cuts back on breaks. Maybe because our packs are lighter without food. Or maybe because we’ve got our trail legs under us now, and we’re ready for another adventure. Maybe we’re even ready for the big hike I have planned for next summer.
      Lightening Up a Family of Five
      A lot has changed in the backpacking world in the last fifteen years, and for this trip I needed to catch up with the lightweight movement, not only because my hip bones groaned at the thought of hoisting my old internal frame pack, but also because Curry and I would carry the majority of supplies for five people. Plus I wanted to keep the kids happy by making their loads as light as possible. Here’s what we took along.
      Packs
      Emmet and Zephyr carried small Gossamer Gear G4 packs, with the hip belts taken in four inches, Curry and I carried the same packs in medium, and Milo had an Equinox Ltd. ARAS Eagle.
      Shelter
      We reserved a lean-to, saving the weight of a tent, but exposing ourselves to the nightly whine of mosquitoes.
      Sleep
      We used Therm-a-Rest foam pads and brought the sleeping bags we already had – LL Bean down and kids’ synthetic mummies.
      Kitchen
      We took along our old, reliable MSR WhisperLite, one liter of fuel, and a two-quart stainless steel pot, titanium bowls, and bamboo spoons and tea cups.
      Water
      We drank from disposable water bottles, used a SteriPEN Adventurer Opti, and took along a milk jug with part of the top cut off, which we used for scooping water and holding our water as we purified it as well as for other camp tasks.
      Clothes
      We each wore a t-shirt and a pair of convertible nylon pants, that for the boys doubled as swim trunks (I brought a swimsuit), and carried a fleece, long underwear, extra socks and underwear, a warm hat and gloves, a vest, and rain gear.
      Footwear
      Emmet and Zephyr wore running shoes, I wore trail runners, Milo wore a pair of light hiking boots and Curry wore his ancient Limmers. The boys and I carried Crocs for the water crossings, while Curry took along Keen sandals.
      Food
      In addition to green beans, carrots, sun butter, and brown bread, we took raw broccoli and whole wheat macaroni and cheese, brown rice and Indian dinner pouches, multigrain hot cereal with butter, milk powder, and freeze-dried fruit, whole wheat crackers, cheese, trail mix (dubbed “glop” by Zephyr), granola, and plenty of chocolate.
      Extras
      We also carried the usual miscellaneous items: first aid kit kit, toiletries, paracord, pocket knives. I put cards and comic books in the boys’ packs and brought a book to read to them and one for myself, as well as a small journal and a point-and-shoot camera. Our pack weight (with food) – 30 lbs. (Curry), 26 lbs. (me), 16 lbs. (Milo), 13 lbs. (Emmet), 12 lbs. (Zephyr) – was not ultralight, but averaged less than twenty pounds per person and was much more pleasant than the heavy days of hiking yore. Every time I saw a hiker bowed under the weight of a loaded pack, I felt convinced that lightening up is the path to more enjoyable backpacking, and I’m going to continue shaving pounds off our packs.

      Baxter State Park offers quintessential Maine scenery at nearly every turn.
      Need to Know
      Information
      Reservations are required for campsites in the park. Information available here.
      Getting There
      The south entrance to Baxter State Park is located about three-and-a-half hours north of Augusta, outside the town of Millinocket. Once in the park, it’s another half-hour drive to Roaring Brook Campground and the Russell Pond Trailhead.
      Best Time to Go
      People enjoy Baxter State Park year-round, but I prefer August and September, when the bugs are fewer and the chance of rain (slightly) lower.
      Maps
      The National Geographic Trails Illustrated Baxter State Park map covers the park.
      Guidebooks
      Fifty Hikes in the Maine Mountains by Cloe Chunn, the Appalachian Mountain Club’s Maine Mountain Guide (includes map) and Hiking Maine's Baxter State Park, a Falcon Guide.
      Editor's Note: This article by contributor Andrea Lani originally appeared in Issue 19 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here for additional photos and content.
    • Mark Wetherington
      By Mark Wetherington in TrailGroove Blog 0
      While a camp stool is perhaps the most popular multi-use application for a bear canister, this tip is best suited for short trips when you're trying to put an emphasis on good food and cold beverages. Bear canisters are a piece of gear added, reluctantly, to the kit of most backpackers only when required for an upcoming trip.

      However, if you're wanting to freshen things up in regard to food and don't mind some added weight, the underappreciated bear canister can help you turn your first night into a feast. There's something satisfying about eating a meal better suited to car camping – like beef or chicken wrapped in foil with vegetables mixed in and cooked over coals – when you're a few miles from the trailhead, but actually pulling this off can be a bit of a hassle.
      Using a Bear Canister as a Cooler
      A solution, albeit a bit awkward, is to partially fill a Platypus bottle or other water reservoir and mold it to inside of the bear canister – then place the canister in the freezer. You can then either put ice cubes in a Ziploc bag or a wide-mouth water reservoir. If you're hiking early enough in the season or otherwise come across a snowbank, you can swap the frozen Platypus and bags of ice cubes out with snow. Before your trip, take the bear canister out of the freezer and put in everything you want to keep cold – meat, other perishables, beverages – and pack the cooler/canister in as normal.

      It doesn't insulate as well as a real cooler would, but it can buy you enough time to hike in (and in areas without restrictions) get a nice bed of coals going (or your backpacking stove fired up), then toss some fresh food on to cook that has remained chilled. Yet another multi-use application for a bear canister would be to extinguish a fire before bed, if you had one...or for that matter one you might find unattended and/or unextinguished (hopefully this is not the case!) during a hiking day. And, since you've got a bear canister, no need to hang a bear bag for the rest of your food.
      For a selection of bear canisters on the market, take a look at this page at REI Co-op.
      Editor's Note: This Trail Tip originally appeared in Issue 38 of TrailGroove Magazine. You can read the original article here.



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